I'm shocked you're not running a scatter shield.... We abuse the clutches and when they explode - it's a violent matter. It's not just a drag race thing - it's a race thing... but more importantly - like a helmet... it's a safety thing. I like my feet just the way they are.

WhileImatititis...

I spent most of yesterday afternoon contemplating taking it the rest of the way down, checking the bearings, and even hot tanking the block and putting new freeze plugs and cam bearings in it. This way I could clean up all of the oil drain edges, drill holes in plugs, those types of things while at the same time being absolutely certain everything is fresh too. Wouldn't take much more to do it all now vs starting from scratch at a later point.

I think I've changed my mind 3 or 4 times already today as wekk on what to do... I think I'll pull a couple rod caps off and have a look see at the bearings...then decide from there. Local speed\engine shop is slow and offered me a heckuva deal on a full refresh, balance, blueprint, line hone, deck, complete reassembly...the works. And could still have it ready by this weekend if needed (it's not).

Hard to not completely refresh the thing with it all the way down this far but at the same time, this bottom end only has 15,000 easy Sunday drive miles on it now.

If any significant wear shows on any of the bearings, I probably will do it. If the bearings still look brand new...I'll probably just button it back up and call it good.

At least you have a plan.... or an idea of a plan... or are thinking about a plan!! LOL


I know that for me - it's hard to take a "perfectly good running" motor and have it refreshed. But I also know (been there) what happens when you spin a bearing - or window a block etc because we were too lazy to pull things out and check 'em.

We all run this stuff pretty hard - and we EXPECT them to perform flawlessly run after run. Now that you're stepping up to do more road course action... I think you're doing the right thing. Doesn't mean nothing will happen down the road - or even 15 seconds into your second lap... but at least you know you gave it a good once over.

It's .039" or about 1mm. Those are both metric (top scale) and inch.
You read the inboard scale (1:1), each mark is 0.025", then you add what the outboard scale reads (the numbers that line up the closest, 0.014 in your case). So it would be 0.025+0.014=0.039" Even easier, look at the metric scale, it's right at 1mm (or 0.039" :) )

I follow everything you say but this Aaron.

"then you add what the outboard scale reads (the numbers that line up the closest, 0.014 in your case)"

Are you just guessing the 0.014 because the line is halfway between the marks?

If you look at the lowest scale (0-25), the "14" tick mark looks like it lines up the closest to the full (1:1) scale lines. Doesn't matter what line on the 1:1, you read the thousandths column (lowest scale, 0-25).

Of course, in person, another line may line up closer, but from the picture it looks like the "14" tick mark.

*Remember: I tell my guys here at work "never trust calipers as far as you can throw them" lol, I can really wing a caliper, ask me...they are a reference tool only. To get a more accurate number, a quality depth micrometer would be best for that check.

Rods, rod caps, and main caps are all marked with identifying marks (which have been recorded physically and photo documented.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...psh25ky3xp.jpg

Pulled #1 and #2 piston

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...pseberln2o.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...pscw9kdruw.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...ps5njcdbov.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...ps454qru6r.jpg

Saw a bit more wear than I am comfortable putting back together...

I imagine that it would be okay...but considering the horsepower upgrade I'm adding and the abuse I'll be putting it through soon...I've decided to refresh it all. It's on the hook now waiting for the shop to let me know when I can bring it up.

Yeah -- Those bearings have lost their coating - next up - failure!


Good thinking on having it gone thru.

Yup yup...

Shop will hone with torque plates, align hone the mains, balance the crank assembly and everything else and deck the block along with file fit new rings and install new bearings.

Probably even strap it to the dyno to break it back in, get some heat cycles in it, set the valve lash hot, and retorque everything so its run ready once I drop it back in the car. Wasn't the original plan but you have to play with the cards dealt to you...

You continue to do a great job showing us the details Lance. :thumbsup: