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another gear option that I have been researching since I currently run a bronze gear is Lunatis' "Everwear" gear. Looks like a good option as well as Comps poly gear.

http://www.lunatipower.com/ProductGr...?id=243&cid=43

Quote:

Originally Posted by GregWeld (Post 331258)

Dave -- couple of things.

Noticed the o'rings on the distributor.... hope your block was machined accordingly. The block should have been machined with chamfered edges on it to accept the o'ringed distributor. They are used to RAISE oil pressure...

Todd is right on about the cam -- and needing to double check with the manufacturer about what style billet cam they're putting out. As he pointed out - some are using a pressed on distributor drive gear so that running a "normal" distributor gear is possible for street engines.

There is another solution to running a bronze gear... COMP CAMS offers a synthetic carbon poly distributor gear for around $100. It's stronger than the bronze gear and if you need to run one - then this carbon poly gear will supposedly give you better life in a street roller motor. Supposedly they show NO WEAR. I say supposedly because I've never run one personally. I run the pressed on drive gear roller cams. I just don't need more BS to deal with such as inspecting my distributor gears. I have to disassemble half my air valves and my fuel system etc to get to my distributor! No thanks.

You also DO NOT want to use synthetic oil for break in of a new distributor gear -- they don't have the heavy metals used to protect engine parts like this. You need oil with the zinc etc in it.

Quote:

Originally Posted by GregWeld (Post 331261)

Dave --

Forgot to say -- MOST aftermarket blocks are chamfered and then you have to use the o rings on the distributor - but if your block is not chamfered - you take the chance of cutting the rings and they end up in the oil pan... We don't need no stinking parts in our pans!! LOL

I run a Dart Little M block... so have 'run into' this issue.

Quote:

Originally Posted by torino420 (Post 331298)

Actually a few people have told us since to remove the bottom or both of the o-rings on the distributor to help with oiling.

Not sure about the machining of the block. Was done a long time ago. It's a factory 400 4 bolt.

We are using conventional VR1 oil. Were running straight 30 -- switching to 10w30 now. VR1 does have the zinc in it.

Thanks for the links on those alternative gears... so now we have a few more options it appears in addition to bronze and melonized. First thing's first -- gotta find out what Stahl used for the cam gear... left him a voicemail today. Apparently Jere isn't in the office much anymore the lady told me. Did confirm the cam by serial # and it was made in 1987! An oldie but a goodie.... I hope. :thumbsup:

Thanks guys.

If the cam is that "old" you can bet it's a billet blank... I think the pressed on gear drive is a "late" advanced feature.

Glad to hear you're running the zinc oil although this is thought to be important (as in HUGE) for the flat tappet guys - it does also help for break in of parts like the gears we're talking about - and the "cam boys" all recommend a break in period using a high zinc style oil for that purpose.

See ya soon buddy -- so keep 'er running! No excuses! :D :woot:

Quote:

Originally Posted by GregWeld (Post 331399)

Well I got a message from Jere via Judy (wife?) that the cam is still billet and the gear is hobbed into the core. She said I would know what that means. LOL.. I had to look that one up! So... as you said Greg... looks like it is not like the "newer" press fit gears of more modern cams.

Jere also recommended a bronze gear, as did the tech guys at MSD. But in the end, after tech calls to both Comp Cams and Lunati on the gears you and Jason linked to (Thanks again, fellas), we felt better about what Comp had to say about their carbon poly gear. The Lunati guy could not tell me exactly what material their gear was made of. :_paranoid
Yes, the CC gear ain't cheap at $110, but we're gonna give it a shot and hope you get what you pay for sometimes. :thumbsup:

http://www.compperformancegroupstore...Category_Code=

And of course the bronze gear will be in the glove box as backup.

We also are upgrading to the Wix R series (from the standard Wix) oil filter in addition to the VR1 10w30 oil. Will change the oil at least twice here and inspect before making the trip down south.

Looking forward to seeing the fellas and having some BBQ in Bako! :cheers:

Very few tech guys no what they are talking about. :D I don't know anything about that comp gear. Couldn't be any worse than the bronze gear. I still think the melonized steel gear will give you the best longevity on the street. It's you car and I've said my peace. See you in 2 ish weeks for the ass kicking of your life.:lol:

Quote:

Originally Posted by Vegas69 (Post 331557)

Yeah I know.. don't you love it when a guy calls and asks you for your advice for an hour and then does the opposite? :lol:

I guess if it doesn't work I'll blame it on Greg for telling me about it. :D

Like you said Todd, it's about as clear as mud on this deal on what exactly is the thing to do, so I'll be a guinea pig on this "exotic" gear. :captain:

Sometimes I just like to go my own way and learn the hard way. Been there done that.

I may have an inferior car, but my driver mod will be the x-factor. :_paranoid

See you on a DRY weekend in OC.

If this cam gear and distributor gear matching is new to you, as it mostly was to me, here is a page I found that looks to be a helpful guide.

http://www.cpgnation.com/forum/prope...haft-2519.html

Ya, next time I see you calling at 9 I'll just politely miss your call. This gives me the opportunity to say I told you so. You don't know how much I'll appreciate that moment if it arrives. :rofl: :rofl: :rofl:

Quote:

Originally Posted by Flash68 (Post 331559)

I can take the heat....

I've owned so many motors and been there and done that so many times that I've lost count. Trust me - this whole gear deal isn't what it used to be... I'd suggest that you've added additional stresses by adding the extra volume oil pump... so checking the distributor gear for you - might become a habit similar to running the valves and changing plugs... :D

One of the things that I try to do when going to shops - or to shows - or to stuff like SEMA etc -- is to try to sort stuff like this out. Directly from the "experts" like the factory boys. I personally like doing that more than looking at the pretty paint jobs. Even then I forget half of what I've found out. I found out at the Eaton booth - that running synthetic diff gear oil was a complete NO NO if you're running a posi.... seems the stuff is TOO SLICK. REALLY? Completely opposite of what a guy would "think" - until you talk to the guys that build 'em for a living. Who knew?

Anyway - good luck with the gear swap.... and glad you found it before you had a catastrophe at high rpms.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Vegas69 (Post 331612)

Yeah yeah I know... I am really setting myself up here aren't I. :lol:

Next time I'll call you before your bedtime... like 7:30? :D

Quote:

Originally Posted by GregWeld (Post 331624)

I'm glad you let me know about this gear. Great to know about all the options out there.

And yes the HV oil pumps really seem to help add to the problem from all the info I have found. Switching to "lighter" oil and this poly gear material, in addition to blocking the oil bypass, are all the things that hope to get us on the right path here. If not, the gear material should all end up in the filter and we can go back to a bronze. Guess we'll find out.

Ya know, the advice on SEMA, etc. and being there to gain knowledge is a great call. I guess your years of experience does bring more to the table eh?

Thanks -- can you smell that BBQ? Rodger is probably fabbing some crazy custom gusseted BBQ with a blower on it for the meet up. :woot: