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Dale, what a great trip. You are livin the dream and puttin that thing to good use. Keep it up. Many of us live through you. :D
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Also saw your car at SEMA back when... loved it. Interested in what changes you have made since. |
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Seriously, if I were ever to build another car, it just might not be a ... well, you know. |
HAHAHAHAHAHA
I love '69 Camaro's... And I'm really happy you all have them. |
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Can't wait to see it out on the track some day. Quote:
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I have run quite a few track day events this year and pushed the car pretty hard... recently out at PIR I had my first problem. The serpentine belt came off the pulleys when I shifted from 3rd to 4th gear on the back straight. When the serpentine belt came off it took the belt that runs the dry sump oil pump with it... causing low oil pressure and then no oil pressure! When I did some internet research... I found that others running their cars on the track have had the same problem with the serpentine belt coming off. The belts typically come off between shifts... during the time when the loads on the belt change. The solution in my case is to add an additional idler pulley on the longest leg of the belt that is un-supported. I have designed a mount for an additional idler that I am testing. I tested the new idler at RMP and had no issues with the serpentine belt coming off. When I finalize the design of the idler wheel and mount I will post up pictures of the design. When the belt came off the dry sump pump I was able to shut the engine off within a few seconds. I coasted into the pits and called the engine builder to get advice on what to do. A.C. Nutter recommended that I have the car towed home, and then pull the pan to check the rod bearings and main bearings just to be safe. I followed his advice... and had the car towed home. The next weekend I pulled the engine and brought it out to A.C.'s shop to have them pull the pan and check everything out. In the 3 weeks between the event at PIR and RMP I pulled the engine and tranny and then re-installed :hairpullout: http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...ps5fb32c1b.jpg http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...ps7a275314.jpg http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...ps9736dbe7.jpg http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...psbd813e01.jpg Ready to go to the shop for inspection http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...ps12fb088f.jpg A.C. told me that the first thing to go when there is no oil pressure is the rod bearings... and then the main bearings. The reason is that there is less area on the rod bearings and higher stresses compared to the main bearings. It turned out that he was exactly right. Two out of eight rods bearings just started to shows early signs of galling. The main bearings were fine. http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...psa87f9c3d.jpg I am very glad that I installed a low oil pressure warning light so I had early warning of low oil pressure. This saved my engine from catastrophic damage. A.C. replaced all the rod bearings and main bearings and I was good to go! When I took the oil pan off there was one more surprise. I will post info on that later... it has to do with the timing chain tensioner. :lateral: |
Great catch!!! What rpm were you turning before shifting? Glad this turned out to your good. It's hard, if not impossible, to lose a dry sump belt at speed, and not pick up a bearing.
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Scott |
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