Thanks.

I have considered installing a reinforced brick in the lid, but I cannot upgrade the lid as the ZL1 will not fit without cutting a big hole in the hood.

The pump, front mount intercooler, lines and tank are all upsized from the stock CTSV stuff so I should be ok there.

I have not considered an ice tank as that seems like its geared far more towards drag racing than what I am doing. Keeping ice in the tank while doing autocross just doesnt seem feasible.

I did install a new timing chain set a year ago when I put the motor together as well as a new Melling oil pump. I didnt go crazy on the timing setup as I dont really plan on spinning it to the moon. I have the rev limiter set at 6200 currently.

Sean

You may have definitely motivated me to do the trunnion upgrade . . . maybe on the 524, when I get back to it . . .

On the cooling note, it seems that out front, or with frontal exposure is always the answer. Modern cars, using obvious answers like the Corvette and Camaro as examples, stuff a million coolers into the frontal areas. Anywhere else, even with a fan, seems to be a fairly short-term solution (like drifter setups in the trunk), especially if you don't want to hear a fan blasting all the time. Desert racers with bed-mounted radiators and multiple giant fans may disagree . . .

Since my Falcon had a ton of space in front of the engine, I was able to fill that space with coolers (to good effect so far, including in super-hot weather). There is a tranny cooler in front of the radiator support; there is an engine oil cooler behind the bumper (cut out and grilled in the middle). Behind the support is obviously the 31x12x4 intercooler. Somewhere in front of the engine/front chassis crossmember is the stock C4 power steering cooler, which seems to work pretty good so far (one autocross in staggering heat).

Dude you have so much room up front its kind of rediculous.

Yes, working on how and where to mount the oil cooler.....and to be honest still trying to figure out what size of an oil cooler to run. Doesnt seem that its a common question to get answered.

Well, not too much exciting going on with the car.

I did get the Williams 102mm boosted throttle body and got it installed. What a piece of artwork.

https://i.imgur.com/C1XRKSGh.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/eAOcO6ph.jpg

Also spent some time getting the tensioner reset closer to the engine and measured and picked up a new Gates HD belt to run this setup. Still just a 6 rib. Ill be curious if I need to upgrade to an 8 rib setup.

https://i.imgur.com/6MBwS06h.jpg

Spent a little time getting the valve covers all cleaned up, replaced some seals on the cover bolts and got them on.

https://i.imgur.com/rxW3RhAh.jpg

Also took some time this weekend and installed new NGK BR7EF plugs gapped to .022

Installed the 1000 cc resized LSA injectors. I also found the reason for the leak at the fuel rail connection. Not sure exactly how this happened but I have ordered a new fitting.

https://i.imgur.com/WHDSrPRh.jpg

Also re routed one of the crankcase ventillation lines as it was hitting the power steering pulley the way I had it routed before.

Should be a non issue now. It goes back and around the power steering reservoir instead of in front of it.

https://i.imgur.com/PgHXRcfh.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/xnk89NAh.jpg

Have a few parts on order to clean up some more plumbing. AN steam port kit to get rid of more hose clamps for serviceability. Also have a raw radiator on its way, this time a 3 core with no fittings on it so Ill be taking a shot at building and welding up a new radiator.....probably tack it up myself and have someone else do the final welding on it since I am still pretty new to aluminum stuff and really don't want to screw it up.

Cheers!!

Well the new Radiator showed up and even though its supposed to be the same size just a 3 core and an inch thicker, that proved to be not the case. So here we go.

https://i.imgur.com/VZX5ITEh.jpg

This sucked working in the painted engine bay I did everything I could to try and protect the finished paint as good as possible with weld paper and lots of towels and tape.

https://i.imgur.com/xNJWbSUh.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/UPqH84kh.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/jfySxs6h.jpg

Capped the ends and built a tube tie the two front frame rails together.

https://i.imgur.com/KpKWLUeh.jpg

Pads that fit up into the channel of the radiator bottom will get rubber pads on top.

I got tabs in place for the lower intercooler mounting bracket as along with the tabs to hold the front of the IPD Aluminum skid plate.

Did a little clean up and taping and shot some paint on it.

https://i.imgur.com/c82kd4Kh.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/DqyRxu3h.jpg

I have the upper radiator mounting bracket all done and it all fits under the existing header panel so win win.

Moving onto the fitting up the Inlets and Outlets as well as the filler.

Hope to have it back in one piece in the next week and then onto fitting up a tray to direct the air from the airdam to the Radiator to get some additional airflow up to the radiator at speed.

Going to move on to the splined front sway bar after that.

Anyone on here done one before on a 240?

Sean

Been out in the garage after work with my head down running beads on aluminum for a few nights. Talked with Nathan a bit and got some pointers, watched a couple of you tube videos and decided that I was going to tackle this radiator build on my own.

I have learned a bunch of stuff through this process and is why I like building **** on my own rather than farming it out to others.

Clean clean clean. This stuff likes to be clean. My process was acetone wipe down, then scrub really well with a stainless wire brush, when I thought it was clean enough scrub again.

Not being an aluminum welder I was not used to this much cleaning and found that the cleaner the surface was with the best fitup possible netted the best welds.

So I started to mock up the radiator, I first built the upper mount that nests in the top of the radiator since it didnt need to hold water or be perfect since you wont see much of it and it had pretty descent results.

So on we go. The plan was to be able to keep the existing upper radiator panel since I have a lot of work into it and like the way it turned out. You can see though not mch wiggle room in placement of the filler. I had to make a small spacer to get the filler up about 1/2" to clear the panel.

https://i.imgur.com/FO1E3xEh.jpg

All in place and fitment should work great. Probably need to redo the lower radiator hose but upper should go right back on.

https://i.imgur.com/NUSBte7h.jpg

Not being very familiar with aluminum and welding some thin stuff here to mismatched thicknesses was a little nerve racking but all in all I am pretty happy with the results. The radiator had just the core and end tanks on, all of the fittings and filler were done by me.

https://i.imgur.com/ep7er6uh.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/oz4vCulh.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/rm5vwmnh.jpg

I have been sweating this for weeks. Now that its done I can move on. Get the fans mounted up, button up all of the plumbing and reinstall all removed components, fill with fluids and get ready to start the tune process again.

Cheers!!!

Sean

The welds look great. Kudos on tackling it yourself. I often stress out about a job I've not done before, then look back after it's done and realize it wasn't a big deal after all.

Daniel

Looks great! Nice work. Did you fill with water and test for leaks before final install? :D

I love the build. Really impressive! Are you running E85? Meth? Stock LSA heads? What's your peak boost?

I daily drive a 3-pedal CTS-V with a stock longbock LSA @ 702rwhp, and I might encourage you to consider a larger pulley than the 2.45"

The 2.45" will work great on the street, autoX, and speed stops, but you're gonna be fighting IAT2s all day long spinning the blower that fast on the track.

You're correct that an ice tank will not help on the track either, other than the first 2-3 laps. The reality is that the brick in the lid just doesn't have the ability to shed as much heat as the blower generates with that small of a pulley for the typical road course WOT profile.

Is your pulley interchangeable? IE could you run a 2.45 for most events, then swap the pulley and tune for road course events? If that's legal, that might be the hot ticket.

I didnt until you said to.....I built an elaborate setup so that I could pressure test with air and check for bubbles. My entire career has been in HVAC Service and that is how we test for leaks so I am comfortable with it and can 100% pinpoint them. I managed to find 2 pinhole leaks, got those ironed out and installed for good. Thanks for the tip Lance. I would not have checked and would have been pissed at myself.

Was at 8lbs on stock setup, pump gas, no meth, just normal boosted pump gas engine. Tune is very conservative. Keep in mind that this is a 6.0 Gen IV truck motor, its not an LSA block, heads or accessory drive. I wish =)

From what I have read and researched....

The LSA crank pulley is 7.8" and the stock truck crank pulley I am running is a 7.5" so that means I have an underdriven crank pulley. I should be overdriving the blower by approx 20% with a max speed of under 20,000 rpm with the 7.5" crank and 2.45" upper. I also cannot fit a larger pulley in there with the Nick Williams Throttle body.

https://www.lingenfelter.com/PRI2014...heet%201.1.pdf

The other thing to note, I dont spin this thing to the moon. I have my rev limiter set to 6200 currently and usually shifted about 5600 to 6000.

I am going for smooth, reliable horsepower on this setup so the tune will take that into account.

The one thing I am worried about is the brick and wonder if I should install a reinforced one while I have everything apart.

Appreciate all of the pointers though, sure helps having others keep an eye on it. I also don't think Ill be anywhere near your 702 wheel hp.

Sean

Love all the easy bolt-on upgrades, Sean . . .

Question: Are you using TIG or a spool gun for the AL welds? I have a never-used spool gun I got with my Miller welder several years ago . . .

It would be interesting to see what a few more RPMs would get you, given the linear power-generating characteristics blowers are supposed to have. Your springs are surely good to 6800, along with your cam.

Happy holidays, dude!