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The reinforced brick is cheap to outsource (~$100), and even cheaper to do yourself (~$30 for a kit). That being said, it's boost that kills the brick and 8-10lbs should be okay. If it does deform, it typically just dents inward without leaking, and hampers cooling. IE your IAT2s will creep up as the coolant flow is impacted, but there aren't a lot of reports of catastrophic brick failures AFAIK. I'm running 16lbs of boost with a stock LSA longblock and a 2.4" upper, and my brick is still fine. That being said, I only street drive the car and never see 4th and 5th gear pulls that you'll see on a road course. Have you looked at flex fuel? I pick up ~100rwhp at ~E50 over 91 octane. In fact, you could potentially run 91/93 octane for autoX and speed stop, then ethanol for road course and probably be faster at both events based on fuel alone. Also, do you have AC installed on the car? If so, using an interchiller to cool your blower coolant in the staging lanes will give you a lot more predictable power versus a heatsoaked blower by the time you get to the starting line, and unknown timing pulled during the run as your IAT2s creep up. |
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https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...failure-7.html On another note I need some info on your pressure PS line if you don't mind sharing. I'm going to be using LS1 accessory spacing and your pressure hose looks like it might work with whats needed. Any vehicle application or numbers? Thanks in advance. |
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**whew** :D Happy to help out. |
Havent touched the car in almost a month and its been a nice break. When I was down at OPTIMA Invitational LSX Magazine contacted me about shooting some photos of the car for a write up.
I had no idea that it was going to be some of the best photos I have ever seen of the car. Check it out if you get a chance https://www.lsxmag.com/features/car-...983-volvo-240/ Here are a few of the photos that Nicole shot of the car. https://i.imgur.com/Izo9Gjfh.jpg https://i.imgur.com/YSAfqClh.jpg https://i.imgur.com/Wihs7Cph.jpg https://i.imgur.com/oD85C9Jh.jpg https://i.imgur.com/FL1US3zh.jpg https://i.imgur.com/tg7da7lh.jpg https://i.imgur.com/IWwDR0vh.jpg I honestly never thought this thing would get this kind of love from people but its pretty awesome. Last summer was simply outstanding for how many events we went to and all the amazing people we met. Looking forward to the new setup being even better this year. Sean |
Congratulations Sean!
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Congratulations! Lots of well-deserved attention!
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Fantastic pictures...
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Well, been pretty tied up with other stuff lately and to be honest its been a great break from a solid almost 2 years on this thing. Built a pretty snazzy lifted t56 swapped 940, bought a new daily, sold the old one. Been tinkering on this but not a ton of progress really. I had nothing but issues getting these parts, from Summit saying it was 2 days out to being almost 2 months before I finally received it to the Setrab order on Amazon getting lost, then the package getting lost. Finally had everything in hand. Wasnt cheap but bad ass parts. SETRAB oil cooler, Russel -10 an fittings, Russel braided stainless -10 hoses, Earl's Thermostatically controlled Oil Cooler fitting from oil pan. Install went well, I trimmed the backside of the front apron to get as much airflow as possible through the cooler. https://i.imgur.com/I45PvFDh.jpg https://i.imgur.com/MFUuJj3h.jpg I ran the stainless hoses as I am worried about heat and abrasion on oil lines. It just makes me nervous to run something that is just rubber and cloth or PTFE or something so not really the look I love but should be strung and durable. https://i.imgur.com/OIt615Xh.jpg The only snafu.... https://i.imgur.com/Diyrepdh.jpg I had my drill stop move and hit the supercharger heat exchanger and put a mother f ing hole in it. Not pretty but local rad shop repaired it and you will never ever see it. Pressure tested to 20 lbs again never will get close to that. https://i.imgur.com/sk1axmYh.jpg I have switched over to AMSOIL on just about everything and now this. I had great luck with Mobile1 the last year but there is a few benefits to the Amsoil stuff and it made huge differences in trans shifting in both the JK and the 940. One of the biggest good side effects of the oil cooler is the extra oil capacity, I added in an extra 2 quarts between the cooler and the lines. Full 7.5 quarts to full now. Super happy about that. Amsoil 5w30 signature series full synthetic going in https://i.imgur.com/mkGnJgah.jpg So far no leaks, need to get it up to operating temps and check it all out but going to work on building some extended front control arms to help with gaining some camber before I drop it back on the ground. Next round is more camber, bigger front sway bar and new tires and should be about good to go for another round of beating the snot out of it.:omg: |
Managed a little bit of time to work on the car this weekend. All of my friends in the south area already racing so I figured its time to get a move on.
With most of the engine work buttoned up I turned to the other part of the winter upgrades. I am burning up the outside of front tires, the front of the car has way too much body roll and not enough negative camber to keep the car planted in the turns. I am maxed out on the Kaplenkhe camber plates and am at 2.5 degrees. So the plan is to extend the lower control arm out and gain some camber that way, then fine tune with the camber plates up top. Is going to cause me more tire clearance issues but Ill deal with that. I know that Sellholm sells a lower control arm for the 240's but ordering parts from them is difficult at best and the KL Racing ones widen it too much and add way too much caster. So I decided I was going to chop up a set of stock ones and add in .75" and patch them back together. I used some .75" x1/8" strap so I knew that I was going out exactly square and .75" Bent up to match the shape of the control arm, chop grind and tack together. http://i.imgur.com/Jjmxuqqh.jpg With the basic concept working out how I had imagined, I went ahead and buttoned it up. Added a bunch of reinforcement to make sure that the arm was solid and had no fears of it failing at the extension. https://i.imgur.com/uoxglZXh.jpg https://i.imgur.com/iG70tnMh.jpg Not pictured is the Yoshifab boxing plates for the underside. I wish that they were thicker metal, they are thin gauge sheetmetal, I was thinking 1/8" would have netted a stiffer arm. All in all the one turned out good. I ran out of Argon so the other side waits. With that one buttoned up I turned to a few other things that needed attention under the car. I have been running a 25mm drop bar up front. I somehow managed to acquire a 28mm non drop bar from the twins some time ago. Our fear was that it would hit the oil pan so they had some 1/4" shims lazer cut to drop it down. I only needed 1 per side and the 28mm bar was a bolt in deal. I was pretty surprised to see how much beefier the 28mm bar was than the 25. I have a feeling this is going to be a much needed improvement from the 25mm drop bar. Unfortunately no pics... Its a sway bar, but bigger =) Onto the last round of my cooling upgrades. Many people have mentioned that the factory front air dam is supposed to have a little plastic diffuser that directs air up from the lower air dam up to the radiator. With so much being different on this car and speeds of well over 150 mph I figured that something of more substance would likely need to be built. I had some 1/2" thick UHMW left over from my buggy from a few years back and love working with it. So I had the wife help with a template, some jigg saw action to cut it out then routered all of the edges for a nice finished look. Then it got bolted into the same place the splash tray goes and tucks in behind the front lip. It will get bolted in the front to make sure that it stays planted at high speeds. Pretty happy with how it turned out and hope that all of this work to keep things cool has a positive effect this summer. https://i.imgur.com/eT4W8tMh.jpg https://i.imgur.com/ad6Hk8Dh.jpg I am hoping I can get the other arm buttoned up in the next few days and get them off to powdercoat. I still need to get the rearend looked at, get new tires mounted up and get a proper alignment on it before its ready for another summer of beating on it but feel I have done a pretty good number of changes in the off season, hoping for some good results to come of it and a little faster this year. Sean |
After much consideration after the steel plate extension approach I continued on with my project. I like the idea of the lower ball joint being bolted directly to the control arm with nuts and washers. Having a plate that is threaded with a super low profile bolt holding it all together just didnt give me that Comfortable feeling. I am sure it would be fine but its not what Ill be doing this go around.
2nd arm went much quicker than the first, and I think it turned out even better. https://i.imgur.com/xNLslTRh.jpg For the bottom......I initally tried tigging this together and it worked, but it wasnt pretty. Still fairly new to the TIG game I found that the super thin boxing plates I got from Yoshi would melt away super quick when trying to weld to the 1/8" thick control arm material. It wasnt pretty, it wasnt fast so I put that away and got the squirt gun out for the bottom plates. Was so much easier and although not tig and stitched together I know 100% that this is beefy and should hold up no problem to whatever I throw at it. https://i.imgur.com/5FkRPUgh.jpg If I did it again, I would cut out my own boxing plates out of 1/8". Now I gotta figure out how to remount the sway bar to the arms and get them coated with something. Sean |
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