Looks great Ron... The dry sump plumbing does add quite a bit of extra work but well worth it. You’re gonna love that LS7 engine!... so close now. I can't wait to see this one finished :thumbsup:

IS IT DONE YET???:peepwall:

Lurking with positive thoughts...

Thanks Dale. You are the man! I was that guy over on LS1tech (aka flash911). Been admiring your build since Day One. :thumbsup:

No soup for you. :getout:

Skip you're such a good guy and have a great way with words! I look forward to meeting you in person one day :cheers:

Ron, the project is looking GREAT! It was great talking with you last night regarding EFI options for my project. Thanks again for taking the time, I greatly appreciate it. I am subscribe to the build and I can't wait to see this thing cruising the streets of So Cal!!!

Great talking to you too Daniel! Now get off LatG and back to work or I'm gonna post up some tatas...:D

DON'T TEASE!! :guns:

Hahaha! Funny because I am taking a mandatory online sexual harassment training, that visual would not go over well, lol...

as far as the rear coilover go can you tell me if these are shorter or longer than the supplied dse quadralink coilovers? I pretty much have my rear coilovers bottomed out and i need shorter ones.

Not sure I get exactly what you're asking, so here goes. DSE supplies an AFCO 5" shock, somewhere in the 13.5" ride height range. Looking at it, it provides about 1.5" in compression travel before you reach the bumpstop. On their Quadralink set up it is dialed in and works really well and my guess is it is made for ride height similar to Stacey's 69.

I had mismatched shocks between those in the rear and Strange in the front. The right decision for me, not everyone would agree, was to get RdieTech triples all around. Their shock body is monotube compared to AFCO's twin and a bit longer so the 5" stroke is about an inch taller at ride height. Not the direction I was hoping to go, but had to make the sacrafice to get the travel I wanted and may need to do something about it (i.e. relocate upper mounts or get a slightly shorter spring to buy myself 1/2" or so).

Last comment Randy, get ALL your weight in the car before deciding on any mods. You might be in for a plesant surprise.

well ive lowered the coilover very very far down trying to simulate weight in the car. I am almost touching the bump stop at the ride height that i like.

Imagine the > is the body of the shock and the ---- is the rod.

>>>>>>>>--]


>>>>>>------]


Notice both are the same overall length but the first pic you can bairly see the rod. What i need is a shorter body. Either that or lower my mounting point. Seems like going to a shorter body shock would be better, easier, and cheaper.

I wonder if i cut off half of the bump stop if it would create a issue? I really only need another 1/2"

I hear ya. I came to a similar conclusion all around.

Nice artwork btw :D

Modifying the DSE lower mount is a big project IMO. Upper would be much easier. Shorter shock would be easiest but limits your performance.

I don't think you'll be happy driving the car with the shock near the bumpstop. Cutting the bumpstop would not be my route. I just don't know if the removed material would be enough to prevent damage or bottoming out and give you the ride height you're looking for.

Shock compression travel and rebound capability are the keys to driving performance, next to tire contact patch. If you wanted a low car and didn't care about performance there are other, easier ways to accomplish this.

:thankyou: I guess I will just have to come to reality that in all aspects of life i come up a 1/2" to short ........




Thats what she said, lol :smiley_smack:

I hate to derail Ron's thread, but I am really curious, Randy, how low are you trying to get your car?

James F. took this picture of my car over the weekend and with me in it (175lbs), it sits pretty low. Car is using the half height bushings up front. I'm not really having any issues except that the rear axle occasionally hits the exhaust, and maybe bump stop, it is hard to tell under hard corner exit. If this is about the ride height you want, you might want to consider driving it before you start cutting stuff up. Careful exhaust placement, or dumps, etc. might get you to where you want to be without issue. Pictured is a 315/30/18 which is about 25.6" tall.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-3...2/DSC03449.JPG

ride height is just about right :) Car has yet to be color sanded and buffed. Cant wait to see it shine then

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c3...9/IMG_3925.jpg
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c3...9/IMG_3922.jpg
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c3...9/IMG_3921.jpg
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c3...9/IMG_3920.jpg
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c3...9/IMG_3919.jpg


69 wheel opening makes your car look lower. I'm about a 1/2" from where I want to be. Fronts are 275/35/18 and rears are 315/30/18. Zero rubbing issues. I like this look more than the 335/30/18

:popcorn2: :popcorn2: :popcorn2: It's ok honey, soon the commercials will be over then back to the feature presentation:lateral:

:lol: Even the Superbowl has commercials

Yeah --- I had one car built - started another - ordered a truck and picked it up - got a trailer coming.... and aged a couple years while waiting for this one to get tires. :lmao: :lmao:

Randy...color looks sick! Not many achieve ride height in paint jail. Get your drivetrain in there and then take a look.

And.....

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y3/...ps4d318f1f.jpg

Yeah! You tell em Greg...:smiley_smack: :lol:

The car is turning out great.

Spoken like a true moderator. :trophy-1302:

Thx Jody :cheers:

This is Lateral-G.net B*tch :thumbsup:

What about Stella?

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y3/...psf07508de.jpg

I'm an administrator. :lol:

The boss has spoken. :bitchslap:

Love the color dude! good work :)

Whose?


:hello:

PRICELESS :lmao: :lmao: :lmao: :lmao:

Love this thread..
 

Ron/Brett I just fond this thread.. all I can say is awesome!...
Do you have any pics of the trans tunnel? was curious how much you had to add to get the t56 in.
Also did you guys paint the control Arms or did they come this way? they look like they might be painted? If you powder coated them did you have to remove the ball joints?
http://s1113.beta.photobucket.com/us...ml?sort=3&o=14

:cheers:

If you're talking about the C5/C6 spindle, they are billet aluminum. They came just like that. I have a set and I had mine clearcoated. They are sold here in Dallas where I live. Well a suburb about 15 right outside of Dallas anyway.

If you're talking about the C5/C6 spindles, they are billet aluminum. They came just like that. I have a set and I had mine clear powdercoated. They are sold here in Dallas where I live. Well a suburb about 15 miles right outside of Dallas anyway. They come with a special ball joint that doesn't contain any grease. It's sort of like a heim joint, so to speak. So, I asked about that when I bought mine and they said that I could leave it in there when powdercoating and that the heat wouldn't bother it.

I re-read my post..then added "control Arms" they look like they might be powder coated with a cool Grey.

Thx XLT. The spindles are cleared and the arms are pcoated silver. And we did remove the lower BJs prior to color.

I'll have to look on an old computer for some trans tunnel pics. Basically raised 1.5 - 2" and modded at the toe board/firewall seam for bell housing clearance. Jake has done this many times and will nail it I'm sure...

Really? Is that above OWNER??



:poke: :D

^ now thats F'n funny!

:rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl:

Depends on when you ask me. :lol:

lateral-g