Nice work, Steve! Those headers do have a lot of ground clearance. Good luck getting it ready for the dyno on Thursday.

I'm about to finish up the coil over conversion for the front of mine. Then off to get aligned. I'm hoping I don't have any issues with my UCA's. I don't have the high clearance pieces though. Mine are factory replacements and work with the factory spindles.

Im not familiar with the clutch set up that you have so i'd like to see what is going on.
When you say on off switch as is in pedal feel? Does it have resistance then no resistance?

How far is the pedal off the floor and at what point does it release?
Do you recall the air gap measurment? I wonder if there is a difference in pressure plates and the fingers are being preloaded.

Your master bore size will change pedal effort. On pedal hole placement I try to shoot for 3" to 3 3/8". Shorten the distance will reduce pedal effort. I will try a mock up at 3.5in and see what I see. Might be your problem.

Let me know before anything gets damaged or fails. shoot me an email please.

Vince, thanks for the response. The clutch actuates well and was very easy to bleed. I think the issue is more of what I need to get used to with the clutch. There is no adjustment needed for the clutch according to monster clutch. I might go to Chevy and test drive a C7 to see what the clutch should feel like since I have zero reference

I put the hole at 3.25". I tried to raise it it the factory hole at 2.5" but the angle was too much. as stated above I think it's just me but I will get you some measurements for your records just to be safe

Pedal RATIO is very important.

Congrats on the progress Steve. You'll friggen love it when shes dialed. Unfortunately, they come "in and out" of dialment lol, how do i know?

Good call on the headers, mine are a very sore subject right now.

So what do you and vince meen "3-3 3/8"? where/what reference point are you using? I used a LUK 7 iirc, Josh did that part, but its a stock Z06 (older) set up, but works fantastic.

Steve,

Looking good!

Did they adjust the upper control arms just for your car or did they change the entire production line?

Hole from the pedal pivot. Most of the cars we do were right at 3". We did have one at 3 3/8 do to the factor hole, which was worn out. Felt good with a 3/4" master. We later replaced the pedal with a new one. You can use different masters and ratios but its all in preference. Another important thing is you don't over travel. The master has a 1.1in travel and you have to measure and add a stop.
I have found that any less than 2.90 in you start running into master cylinder push rod angle issues and piston bore wear.

Geeze Steve, I have missed a bunch of great progress. It's good to see the guys at ST got things dialed in for you.:clap:

Good luck on the dyno:cheers:

My understanding is they changed the jigs for the whole line on the high clearance arms. You should contact Jay, Blake or Roger for the exact details so I'm not speaking out of place. They also gave the shafts more of a brushed than polished finish, it looks very nice.

I'll work on the stop. I never got around to measuring but will soon. The pedal is feeling better to me. I think I was just used to the long travel z-bar setups. It should be much easier to drive on the track with the shorter travel.

Getting there slowly but surely. I'm not making the dyne this week. I called Monday and rescheduled for Nov 14. Deadline was too tight and I didn't work hard enough over the last week. It wasn't work breaking something to meet the deadline.

When are you finally leaving the Bay area to get back on that Torino????

More progress was made over the weekend. The fuel tank was installed and the line ran to the front. I welded a mount to the frame for the fuel filter and ran the -6 hose as clean as possible. It's really nice running only 1 line from the vaporworx tank.

In hooking up the clutch I decided to expand the size of the clutch pedal to be the same as the brake pedal. I welded on some extra metal and it works great. You can also see from these pics where I drilled the new hole for the clutch rod.

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I went to O'reilly and dug around for a bit for hoses too. The ones I found fit very nice with just a small bit of trimming. I left the PN's on them in case someone needs as a reference.

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I also organized my thoughts for most of my wiring. You can tell from the pics it is not done yet. Original plan was to mount the computer in the engine bay. After laying it out it really looked bad to me. I used the factory 1.5" hole in the firewall for the ECM harness to pass thru once I expanded it to 2". The ECM and fuse panel will be mounted to the heater box just behind the stereo. I think it will work well with easy access and not be visible.

I also decided to go ahead and purchase an alternator mount form LSbrackets.com. I don't want to use it was a permanent solution since I really want it more lower in the car and out of site. That being said the mount is pretty nice. It also works with all the factory 2010 Camaro LS3 components which makes it really nice for a pull out engine swap.

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