Yes, and should be soft too.

After you get the stop to limit the push rod to 1" travel, adjust the rod till it releases at 2-3" off the stop. You can do a push roll test to see when its releasing.

Made a bit more progress this weekend. Finally have the top side wiring , under dash wiring , fuel lines fully ran, and the ECM/fuse block mounted under the dash. I had to pull the new harness apart to move the MAF to the passenger side of the engine. I also needed to reduce the length of many of the wires. It took forever but I think the result it not too bad.

I also cut out a piece of steel plate to use as a clutch reservoir mount.

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Tonight I hope to get the knock sensors, main battery and starter solenoid all hooked up. I also want to complete the relay block for the fuel pump in the trunk.

More progress has been made with the car but I've hit a lot of roadblocks along the way. b Sorry about the novel with only a few pics

Last weekend I hoped to have the car started up.... this didn't happen. After getting all the wiring in pretty well (not fully satisfied with my routing/looming) I hooked up the battery to crank it over. Starter engaged but engine wouldn't budge. I then tried to spin the engine over by hand and it was locked solid. I knew the engine spun fine on the stand so it had to be something with the clutch/trans. I backed the bell housing off ~1/8" and the engine spun over so something was wrong in the clutch/trans/pilot/throwout area.

I went ahead and pulled the trans out to start measurements... which pretty much sucked.... I get it out at 10PM saturday because it's a mess with the TA x-member. I have to pull the subframe loose to get the TA x-memenber out since the trans hits it in normal position. Later on I'll have to figure out a way to fix the issue.

Sunday morning I began measuring. I started with the Bellhousing alignment. It was ~.0035 off so it was in spec. Next I checked the overall input shaft length. It was good. I checked the Throwout bearing length fully compressed compared to the clutch. It was good. Finally I checked the length of the input splines compared to the pilot bearing depth....I found an issue. I still had the factory LS3 sealed pilot bearing in the crank. Talking to Monster Clutch I was under the impression it would be fine....it wasn't. The splined part of the input shaft was pressing on the pilot bearing which was loading the thrust bearing and locking up the crank. Thankfully Monster supplied the roller bearing with the clutch kit. I pulled the sealed bearing out and install the roller. Everything was good to go. I reinstalled the trans. By 5PM sunday I was back to where I thought I was Saturday at 5pm. While it was out I also redrilled the trans x-member to pull it forward ~5/8”. At least I made a little progress and the day wasn’t a total loss.

After it was all back together I started on the air intake. I purchased the Air Raid build yourself tube that is basically a big 4” plastic tube with multiple bends and straights that you cut and rebuild as you need. The also sell a ~12” straight section with a fitting for the cartridge style MAF. I mocked up the tubes and cut them out. Sanded the ends nice and smooth. Here is the end product after it was all glued together. I still want to sand it all down and repaint it but for now it should work pretty well.

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Final piece I need was the oil filter and oil them. I scrapped my original filter mount and decided to get one with fittings on the side to mounting would be easier. I also picked up and Earl’s thermo. Final mounts will not be made until the fenders are back on but overall I’m happy with the routing. The filter will go behind the driver headlight area and the thermo in front of the radiator. One issue I do have is with the thermo fittings. It is made of 0-ring fittings. Apparently I bought radios O-fing fittings and they don’t seal at all. Oil is leaking everywhere with only 25PSI cranking pressure. I’m going to head to the local perf shop and find some regular fittings to replace the ones I have

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After all this I was ready to start it. I crank is over and nothing…. It spins just fine but doesn’t even think to fire. I put a scanner on the car and noticed a P0010 code for the Cam sensor and a few codes for the accelerator pedal. I decided to pull the cam sensor to make sure it isn’t damaged. It decides it wants to stay where it is and breaks into pieces. I have to pull the front cover off and push the sensor in but do get it of. Looking at the sensor I also see 1 of the 3 connections is missing so think I found the issue. I grab a replacement sensor, put it all back together and try to fire. NOTHING…..

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I go ahead and check spark and power while cranking. Fuse panel has power while cranking. The spark plugs are also firing. I pulled one out and arc’d it back to the engine.

Next area is fuel. I have 60PSI based on the gauge on the rail but need to see if it’s firing. I decide to pull the rail up slightly to see if fuel squirts when I cranks….NOTHING. I also pick up a NOID light kit (never heard of one before) to test the injector signal. The light never turns on when cranking.

I called PSI to chat about the harness. We go thru the basic troubleshooting and can’t really find an issue. I was worried the DBW pedal may be wrong and causing the issue due to the code since it’s not the exact same PN noted in the instructions. Tech says that since I hear the TB moving with the pedal movement there should be no issue.

Next step is to call the tuner and future out what he put on for a base tune on the ECM. Only thing I can gather is something is wrong with the VATS or some other tuning aspect. Unfortunately he’s tuning another car right now and will have to call me back after. I was due to have mine tuned tomorrow but due to the troubleshooting I still have no exhaust and am not comfortable bringing a car to the dyne when I’ve never cranked it. Until the car runs the dyne tune has been postponed indefinitely. SUCKS….

sorry to hear about that. Strange set of problems.

another problem that arises with using modern drive trains, you gotta have the modern diagnostic tools and knowledge to keep them going.

I bet its a minor issue and it will be the last place you look.

Sorry for the roadblocks. Good luck getting around them. Just take your time and work through them slowly so as to not create any more issues.

Pretty sure I found the issue.

The ECM was from a junkyard truck. The tuner was supposed to wipe the ECM file and load an LS3 config and set it up for a standalone system so I could start it. He never did that. I think he simply pulled the VATS off the ECM. Makes sense that an ECM from a 2011 truck with a 5.3 won't fire off an LS3 from a Camaro.

Sucks that its an hour drive each way to get it reflashed again. Sucks even more that I spent the last 3 days chasing the issue rather than finishing the car. Good news is I primed the engine very well while trying to crank it up and found a leak in the oil fittings before firing it off. Hopefully by Saturday I can post a video of it running.

Are you still using your original harness or have you updated your fuse panel and harness to one of the new style harness like the AAW classic update type?

I hope he get it straight for you this time.

I'm running a painless harness on the chassis and a PSI harness for the engine.

Will find out tomorrow.... I hope so.

I had a similar problem and it turned out to be that the switched power that I used to go to the computer would lose momentary power when I turn the key to start. Kinda like when your wipers stop momentarily when cranking the engine. The power was an interrupted signal. Just a thought.