A lady at one of the local Autozones told my Dad that "new cars don't require lug nuts, they don't make them anymore". When he pointed to some she replied "those are only for classic cars, anything newer than '93 doesn't need them". He promptly left.

Another person, same store, sold my brother a serpentine belt. My brother went out, pulled his off and compared it to the new one. It was an inch too long. Yet the clerk could not understand why it would be a problem "your tensioner will take up the slack". After showing him the old belt and that the new belt was too long he said "belts shrink over time that is why they get cracks in them, it will be fine". He got his money back and went someplace else.

At the store I frequent, I had a particular clerk that I finally told that he should just run the cash register and to never "help" me again. This after a few times of him refusing to even attempt to look something up because he did not believe what I was asking him to look up. Like my Camaro having a 2-piece intake manifold, that there is such a thing as tire pressure monitors, that there is such a thing as lug bolts, and plenty of others. Any time I go in there he still asks if he can help me and I just tell him I will wait for somebody else to be available.

David

My recent favorite incident from the local parts store...Went in a few weeks ago to get a serpentine belt for my 91 Jeep Wrangler...

First question...what size motor? (I answer 4.0)

Second question...auto or 5 spd (I laugh...then say auto)

Third question...2wd or 4wd (again, I laugh...and tell them they only make a 4wd in a wrangler)

Fourth question...Does it have air (this is a legitimate question...I reply yes it has air)

I then also tell them it is white with a hardtop and 2 1/2 inch lift kit if that makes a difference and the guy told me I was being a smart-ass.

I swear, if they cannot look it up and answer the questions on the computer...they are lost.

little late to the party... but the problem with something claiming gains of 2-3hp is alway diffucult to really prove... im mean when you dyno a car and dont even change a thing the number fluxuate 1-3 # anyways...

I love it when people log a few posts on a forum using "big" words of which they know nothing about or plagiarize word for word something they read in Truckin' magazine so that they can appear to be an expert.

You can pretty much single out a wannabe expert when they don't even possess the literary skills to spell 4 and 5 letter words let alone calculate resistance. Hookt; On, Fonix Wurkt' Fer Me :willy:

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SO.....IF HE'S CORRECT 1 GROUND IS WORTH 10-20HP... IF I RUN 5 OR 6 OF THEM I DON'T NEED TO UPGRADE TO THE PROCHARGER....DAMN THANKS FOR THE INFO YOU JUST SAVED ME A TON OF CASH:thumbsup:

I tune subarus among other cars but they do pick up power from having good grounds. Def not 30 whp I think read the article wrong haha.

It's a religious experience when it happens. I read the ad and saw that it is all from IMMACULATE CONDUCTION. I am not sure if it goes with the IMMACULATE CONCEPTION I have always read about but I don't think your 1st born child will have to be sacrificed ,just a few $$$$$ and the cost of all of the stupid looks you might get.

Always look for the braided ground strap when searching out well grounded people for car advice,being well grounded is required for a good start,just disconnect your grounds and see if you have any power:
rofl:

Magazines will say anything as long as you buy advertising space. Their 'tests' are ads for companies. Every hokey device ever made had plenty of positive results in magazines.

Right after high school we worked in a Sears garage. We would get the blank slips made for the pickup driver, make up stupid things for him to get, and mix them into the real ones. He'd drive to some business and ask for 'racing air' or 'muffler bearings', and then come back and flip out BIG TIME!! What fun.

The only time the ground would make a difference, is if there was a bad ground to begin with. I'm talking very poor ground. A car or anything else that has a proper ground is not going to get better spark out of the positive arc out of the + side by having a different-better ground wire attached. It doesn't work that way. A poor ground is going to give you the problems you said, like radio interference better lighting and what not. If the ground is good, then a better wire will not make a difference. In fact car grounds and equipment grounds are not even sized the same, meaning it's not as important as the positive side of the wire. As long as it's properly attached, it doesn't make a difference how it's wound, or if it's made from solid gold. Sorry, but whoever is feeding you these facts rides the short bus.

I used to own a tool $ equipment franchise, and thus drove one of those cool tool trucks. Now, my truck came from a company called Precision Display Vehicles, and was rather unusual. Oddly, it had a Chrysler motor home chassis, and a Chevy 454/Turbo 400. It was not a Chrysler nor a Chevrolet product, and thus getting the correct parts took a bit of trial and error. To make things as easy as possible, I kept a notebook of all known part numbers. When going to the local Autozone, or some other consumer auto parts place, it always turned into a rather annoying conversation.

Me: I need an equivalent to a Gates XXXX belt

Zoner: What year is the vehicle?

Me: You can't look it up that way, just cross reference it.

Zoner: What year? I need a year.

Me: OK, its a 1986

Zoner: Make?

Me: Precision

Zoner: no such thing, what is it?

Me: A step van, and you'll need to cross it.

Zoner: Is it a Chevy step van?

Me: No, it's a Precision... it was a custom company

Zoner: I need a year and a make to look it up...

Me: Do you sell ammo?? :rolleyes:

In the end, I nearly always ended up cross referencing the part myself as the guy behind the counter didn't even know you could do that!

Shiny Side Up!
Bill