Like asking: ...should I buy a Ferrari or Porsche.......:D

I think when you get into high dollar parts like these - you can't go wrong either way. I have a Jim Meyer Chassis under my Nomad - the frame rails where formed by.... Art Morrison. However, there IS a difference with these frames. Mine is all heim joints - so no rubber bushings... to do this over again I'd certainly use the AME frame. I'm building a 55 now (for a buddy) with AME chassis... it's a nice piece -- as is my JMR piece.

I say this - because you're asking for an opinion on which to buy - without a discussion about any (if any) differences that ALL the choices offer.

Some A arm manufactures use Del A Lum bushings - some use Urethane - tubular A arms versus - Corvette castings...

If I was making this choice I'd be on the phone with both of them with a list of questions like - what is the max wheel/tire size - what offsets - what bolt pattern - turning radius - what are your brake choices/sizes - roll bar choices - brake lines optional or std - type of steering (rack or?) - turning ratio options - what motor / header are you going to use - do these have any interference issues that are known to the mfg.... etc.

Just my 2 cents worth - which isn't worth a nickel

My big reason for voting for the AME vs DSE is that the AME uses off the shelf C6 parts. A run to any Chevy dealer in the US will net you the majority of the components to rebuild the front suspension.

Having that piece of mind is worth a lot to me.

True, but not entirely...

Her car is nearly as fast or faster... with her driving.. lol

For example, my car beats her car if she is driving both. Driver skill plays a big part in all of this.

That said, a stock subframe can be made to be very good, but it does have limitations.

Just another thought on the choices available. I just went through this whole "frame choice" issue on my 37 Ford. There's about a dozen mfg's of frames for the 35 to 40 Ford (they use the same chassis). When you combine the frame mfg's AND INCLUDE all the different options - your choices are almost endless - and there's no end to the various combinations you can come up with. Just for giggles - here's the mfgs I spoke and emailed multiple times:

Pete and Jakes
TCI
Superior Glass Works
The Roadster Shop
Art Morrison
Progressive
Kugel
Roy Brizio

My point of all this -- is that in the end - after asking a zillion questions I applied the responses to what I was looking for. I was certain when I started out - that I wanted a triangulated 4 bar rear... I ended up with inboard mounted leaf springs. The reason - I want to just road trip this build... it has a HUGE trunk... the coil overs are great up front where the weight doesn't change - but in the back - the coil overs have a limited amount of travel... I want to be able to load up a toolbox - suitcases - wife (in front with me) - a full load of fuel - AND still have a good stance and nice ride. I HATE air bags - too many parts and pieces - they leak down - been there done that.... the leaf springs offered what I needed - over what I really wanted (in my mind). Mounting them inboard lowered the rear two more inches - C notching the frame rails made clearance - mounting them inboard made more tire width available - a speedway engineering sway bar was clean and tucked up out of the way... and I have clearance for exhaust and gas tank... The leaf spring rear would have been the very last thing I'd have ever considered ---- UNTIL I DISCUSSED all the pluses and minuses of every system. Since I'm not auto-crossing this car - a panhard bar etc really isn't important. I wanted a nice stable ride - spelled consistent - empty or loaded to the max... so I listened and settled on what would work for the application. I really didn't care about 'bragging rights' -- i.e., having the biggest, baddest, newest, most expensive, available.

Okay - I'm done... Whew!

Just trying to give you some food for thought....

SOOOOOOOOOOOOOO TRUE!!

Endless hours of bench racing would never settle the question... and either choice is a good one!

http://www.detroitspeed.com/news_eve...droforming.htm

I like the idea that the frame is made the same way it is for a C6 Corvette. I like cutting edge stuff.

After driving my Blue 69 with the DSE sub and 4 Link, I would never buy or own another one without their stuff. We can all argue about parts, and their are alot of nice parts available, I like the fact that DSE is constantly engineering new stuff for different makes and showing up at multiple events to test those parts. Also you can go to different locations across the country jump in the seat and go for a ride.

Its awesome that all these manufactureres are designing stuff for us. Could you imagine if you loved Yugo's, try and upgrade that and get your money out of it! LOL.

Not trying to piss anybody off here, but Stuart and I have actually logged a bunch of miles on our cars. There is alot of hear say going on here. I don't doubt that the Morrison frame is great, just don't see any posts from folks with real world experience behind the steering wheel. I would really like to see a shoot out between the two. DSE frame/Quadralink vs AME C6 frame/4/3 link There is no reason that can't be done at this point. Enough of this they are both great choices stuff.:D

I would like to see that too, I would be willing to to offer my AME C6 tri 4 bar set up for someone to compare it with the DSE stuff. will be on the road in a month or so.