Just an aluminum block and fuel injection. :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: I used a cast Scat crank and would now go with a forged crankshaft just incase decide to spray it or turn this thing into a 540 one day.(Crankshaft and rods can be used in a 540) I wouldn't bore it any farther than neccesary. Automatically going to 496 gives you no mulligans for another bore. So...forged crank and mechanical cam. Don't forget the press on cast cam gear for the distributor. You don't want to run a bronze distributor gear on the street. I have a TKO 600.

I've been doing some research on chevelles.com myself Eric.
I guess a lot of the guys on chevelles.com are running or suggesting the AFR or Brodix heads. I guess both would be a great choice for a 496?

Todd, I just went through your thread again. I'm up to page 27. I found the trans info. Your car is going to cost ME alot of money! Thanks. :lol:

I get what you are saying about the bore. Maybe I'll hold back and save some material for later just in case.
I didn't realize you were using a cast crank at those power levels. A forged crank seems the way to go now since I have to get a new one anyway.

So I am going with a forged stroker crank. Mechanical roller cam (specs?) I'll remember the cam gear Todd.
Aluminum heads (probably the ones from Frank at Prodigy).
Pistons and rods to be determined still. (do I beam or H beam rods make any difference for this build?)
Scat and Eagle both have forged rotating assemblies. Both also offer both types of rods.

Now I need to figure out which intake and carb.
I have seen Edelbrock Performer RPM used but I wonder if that might not flow enough. But any dual plane will have better street manners than a single plane.
Carb size will matter too. I can deal with tuning here. Just need a base size to start with.
I have a brand new billet HEI I can use but I'm sure it will have to be tweaked.

Almost there guys. Thanks to everyone for all of the great advice and for your patients. This is my first big block and I figure if I'm going to do it, I better do it right.:cheers:
Eric

Heads are a personal choice. Very happy with my Dart Pro 1's. I'm running a Edelbrock Air Gap intake and 850 AED carb. If you do go mechanical which you should, I'd step it up to a 950 for the added rpm you can spin it. I'd also make sure you oil pan is made for you intended application. You should make mid 600's tq/hp with a clean build, good heads, and the right camshaft. My build thread is a novel. I should delete it and charge admission to save a bunch of money and time!

Yes, your build thread is a novel. It took me forever to find mention of the trans. But it has so much good info and has helped me a bunch.
I really appreciate your help on parts selection. Now all I have to do is pay for it all!:rofl:

I sent Mike Lewis a PM regarding all of this and asked for a quote on a rotating assembly and a quote on a short block. (just in case my block is bad)

There are a couple of good engine builders around here that I can work with as well. I shouldn't have any problem getting this put together right.

I am looking forward to building this engine. It should be an absolute riot once in the car.

Todd, did you get your heads from Summit or Jeggs? Or is there a better source?
Thanks again,
Eric:cheers:

The key is to find a really good machine shop and let them set up the block and heads for your application. I'd stay as close to home as possible and buy the parts from them if they are reasonable. I had my engine built in North Carolina. Never again.

I'll try and stay local Todd. Thanks for the input.
I noticed you are using mechanical clutch linkage. Is there any reason why you didn't go with a hydraulic set up?
I am putting together my list for the rest of the drive train and this caught my eye in your thread.
Thanks,
Eric

Less expensive and less to go wrong. I really like the feel of my clutch.

Good points on the clutch Todd. Kinda hard for mechanical linkage to puke fluid all over your new clutch package huh?
I have never had a hyd clutch in any kind of muscle car. (Toyota Corolla does not count). My '68 had a Muncie M21 and I did like how easy that was to take care of and it had a good feel too.
I just got my quote from Keisler on the trans package and the hyd upgrade is pretty spendy.
Thanks,
Eric

Headers is where it can become and issue to run a mechanical however. They must be built for the Z BAR.