I was planning on going with power windows for the Cuda.....not too keen on it now....

Although being able to open/close any of the 4 windows from the driver seat is nice. Its a real pain to have to go around and manually open/close the windows "as needed..... if you drive with them down..park....cloes them up....driving around with them down and it starts to get cold etc etc.... If the power ones really dont work all that well, I guess it will be worth the PITA factor

This whole thread reminds me of the "air bag" discussions... if you really push a guy about his "air bags" -- you find out he really isn't happy with them - "but they look kool when he's parked"...:rofl: :rofl:

yeah, i was agreeing with you, just explaining it a little different . I am a little slow sometimes.....:willy:

I hooked a battery direct to one today installed in the car and tried to stop it and could not. Now that will change some when 50 feet is added and passed through the fuse box unless I install a relay to prevent resistance. I am certain they will work great for us.

Your explanation was way better than mine Mike!:rofl:

NU RELICS website says they use NEW DELCO motors... that right there might be the big difference!

I really like the looks of the Nu Relic stuff. I just found a front runner for our project. I really dig the Delco motors. Thanks for the info Mike.

Looks like some nice Nomad stuff too. Wonder who has one of those? :_paranoid

That old Nomad only needs a freshened up motor (almost done)... The car has been built (I've had it 11 years).. has a nice Gabe Lopez leather interior - electric windows and power remote door locks - big azz stereo - Nice Jim Meyer chassi... big brakes... She's a nice "hot rod" -- no "pro" anything there...

Oh - did I mention all the cracks in the body... in places nice old ladies like her shouldn't have them....:rofl:

I'll do that over when the '37 is done - that way I always have something to drive. In the meantime I'm stuck building a car for a buddy... and we know these things don't build themselves!
:cheers:

My car's not on the road, but I recently installed electric driver's side front and rear quarter windows in my '68 Camaro. Because I was also installing the glass, I had to rig up a little wiring harness to power the motors while adjusting the glass. My temporary harness was about 5' of 12 gauge wire from the window switch to the motor wiring, and another 5' of 12 gauge wire from the window switch to the battery jumper cables that were hooked up to a 12v car battery. While I'd heard about the "wimpy" performance of the Electric Life electric windows, I was very impressed - again only during the glass install and adjustment process - with how quickly and powerfully the electric motors powered the windows up and tight against the weather stripping, even with the door closed.

However, and it's a big however, I was much less impressed with the wiring harness - which (IIRC) routes the power for the front window through the rear window switch in what looks like 16 gauge wiring. The harness is fused for 25 amps, and if the window motors are drawing 20 amps, the wiring should - given the length of the wiring runs - be sized at more like 12 gauge. I suspect that if the windows are "wimpy" it's because they're not getting enough juice. I'm still trying to decide whether to use the Electric Life harness, or to wire the windows more robustly from the start.

Gauge is "everything"....

Here's another thing that many people do NOT do when choosing wire size -- the "length of the run" is actually supposed to be measured as a ROUND TRIP... So if the physical distance is 5' -- The gauge really should be chosen based on the wire gauge chart as 10'. Most people don't know this little known factoid. I discovered it when choosing some wiring in my boat.

I think we get away with this in the car hobby/world - because typically you're grounding near the 'load'... so aren't really running a separate ground as you would have to do in a boat. But after learning this - I always "err" on a gauge up rather than the "minimum".

A quick calculation of wiring to show VOLTAGE DROP -- using 16 gauge wire - running 5' physical feet (for calculation purposes this will be DOUBLED) - a 12vdc load - 25 amp max - the VOLTAGE AT THE END OF THE CIRCUIT will be less than 11V when loaded.

Simply using 12 gauge instead - will net you 11.59 (11.6)V

This doesn't seem like a big deal -- until you actually use the load - and see the effect.

Of course that voltage will / should increase well over 12V while the alternator is humming along... but then again...

We're running ever increasing loads (almost constant loads) in our cars these days. EFI - Dual Electric fans - A/C - Stereos w/amps - electric fuel pumps and on and on... and I've seen alternator "charge" wires that are only 10 ga... and they're running a 120 amp alternator... :rofl: