:y0!: Call Blake at 417. :thumbsup:

Nice system. No heat soak here. Mine Runs at 185* all day long.

What a launch, i would wet my pants behind the wheel..

Can you show how the air to water cooler was build in the manifold?

Go twins
 

You can put in a thicker head gasket from Cometic and drop to 10.5 or 10-1. No need to go lower as the compression will help spool the turboe. 6.0 factory manifolds facing forward and weld from there to make the connection top to turbos.

I would go with twin 57-60mm and a 60mm exh housing and it will spool fast, A/A even a ebay will work and just make sure the wastegates are good and a large blow off valve so there is no surge. AMS 500 for boost control and you are kicking as$!

wow I thought this forum had more people that would not give out info that they new nothing about but I was wrong! 8.5 compression ratio not true at all!you could go up to 10:1 with pump gas. will a alum. block and stock rods be able to handle it yes all day long at the kind of power levels you are looking for. I run a stock 5.3 short block with a set of ported 241 heads and with the twin 57mm turbos it turns 550 to the rear wheels on pump gas at 13# of boost on pump gas it has more to to offer with switching over to e85 but supper happy with 550 rwhp for and everyday driver. are you capable of doing the fab for turbos yourself? this is were the money comes from it is time consuming and it costs alot in labor this is were the supercharger option might be better for you.what kind of car is this going in?
http://i643.photobucket.com/albums/u...d/IMAG1431.jpg

I've had eaton, procharged and turbo, setups on a ls based engines, I like the turbo the best. My current driver has a ls1, with rods, pistons,ls6 intake compression is 9.2 1, it made 680 hp to the rear tires on pump gas. I drive this to work, 60 miles round trip, no under hood heat issues and if you drive normal still gets good fuel economy . I would keep the heads and get rods and pistons.

Quick video of my car on the dyno https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aVFUDHp7N-8

I may be reading your post wrong but just want to make sure you know your 04 Cobra is Air to Water intercooled. You have a charge air cooler under your supercharger and a pump that that circulates the hot coolant down through the tiny radiator in your lower bumper to cool it..

This is Air to Air....
http://i696.photobucket.com/albums/v...atermarked.jpg

Sorry to throw a S/C pic in a Turbo thread.... the next build is getting a TT Coyote.

And as E-Rod said above... IMHO 8.5 is too low for a street driven turbo motor. With that low of compression it would be a slug till the boost kicked in. I run 8.8:1 in most of the S/C stuff I do but belt driven is constantly forcing boost down the TB... with a street driven turbo setup you would run more along the low-mid 9's or even as high as 10:1 if you wanted to be really snappy and then Turbo from there. You get a solid driving street car before the boost and it just gets better. With regards to driveability and seat of the pants feel- compression ratio vs Turbo and pipe sizing is more critical than it is on S/C applications. Yes, it is true that the lower compression and higher boost will give you bigger peak numbers but unless this is a racecar your sacrifice in driveability won't be worth it. Why do you think the F&F crowd likes backing their turbos with NOS? Turbo is too big and the static CR is low so it will make big hp once you get spinning but the drivability sucks... its a pig off the line so spraying NOS through the impeller artificially spools the turbo faster than the exhaust will. Since most of the stuff you will see on this site is decent cubic inch American V8 we make enough torque to get away with more than a 4-6 banger import but you've still got to look at the big picture of how you want to drive this car. Another way to compensate is with sequential tubos... one small to spool off the line and a larger one to take over at higher flow like the 90's Supra Turbos. Or like the 6.0 turbo diesel crowd had... a variable geometry turbo that changes the housing size by RPM...acts like a small turbo at low RPM and then opens up as the RPM increases.

Another good point previously mentioned is the quality of your internals. Your stock short block should hold together under moderate boost and moderate use but if you start getting greedy and want to turn up the boost you should invest in a solid bottom end before it grenades on you.

Turbos do add complexity. Turbos are IMHO more complex to setup and tune than a S/C application but not undoable (you spend your time in plumbing rather than driving belts) But after doing the last 6 supercharged, intercooled, EFI big block motors I'm excited to do a couple turbo applications for the drivability factor... A 1000+ hp blown motor drives like that all the time... a 1000+ hp Turbo motor can be driven like a regular car when you aren't in the boost. If you are worried about IAT, definitely intercool or look at a rear mounted turbo system like STS.

Has anyone been able to keep A/C and if so what pulley/brackets and headers did you use?

I'm planning on keeping A/C on mine with the turbo setup.

March or Vintage Air front drive/accessories
Stainless works headers (down/forward flipped)
Autorad radiator/condensor/intercooler setup

:G-Dub:

I'll post pics when it all arrives and of course when we start building the turbo kit. GAP is helping me with all this but I am SURE we'll keep the A/C with this setup.

William