That I know of, all of the reverse rotation pumps have metric threads on the 4 pulley attachment bolts.

update:

Received my infared temp gun, and measuring at the temp sending on manifold, 150-160 at idle for the first 5 minutes or so. At this point, my outlet hose is cold, and inlet hose is hot. At 180, the thermosat opens and the outlet measure around 6 degrees higher than the inlet.

Drove the car for about 10 mins, let it idle for another 5 minutes, reached 210, and sits at 210. If i turn the car off, the car does not cycle its water, and temps were record at around 215-220 while off, it cools down to about 180 after 10-15 mins.

Btw the gauge reads the same as my temp gun.

Should be getting timing gun in the next few days, will measure the timing to see whether i am too adv or reta., or neither.

looks normal... temp will rise with no flow.

Is this with your fan on constant? Should be more than a 6 degree drop through the radiator.

EXACTLY -- should be a 20* drop in temp from inlet to outlet....


I've PM'd him how to plot a timing curve... We need those numbers - initial - and then 500 rpm increments -- and then total advance and at what rpm is his maximum advance at. That info will help with whether it's a cooling system or timing is messed up which can add a lot of heat and decrease performance.


I'll be on the road for the next couple weeks so maybe you guys will have to take over trying to help him solve this issue..

fan is on constant at this point.

definitely not 20* difference.

I will report back the timing in the next few days.

Thanks Greg for ur help to this point, chat when u return.

BTW --- The temp gun is a great inexpensive tool to have -- and can be used for many things! Like Brake bias and header temps and all manor of stuff.


The key test there is that the gauge is accurate. Now we can use the temp gun to isolate or read the temps in various places to get a picture for what the issue is.

Make sure not to use these guns on chrome or polished pieces -- they don't get as good of a reading on those surfaces.

Many times -- I'll just read right off the fins of a radiator... just point the gun at an angle so it gets a good look at the surface you're trying to measure. It's also helpful to read near the exhaust ports of the head... the sides of the block etc.

Just to be sure --- have you had the radiator cap OFF when the car is cold ----- and then let the motor come up to temp --- and watch the water flow when the thermostat opens up??


You always have to be careful doing this - because sometimes they'll "burp" hot coolant..... but sometimes that's the problem! They have air trapped in the system that needs to get the hell out of there!


It's also useful information for you to see the water flow and now it's going the right way and has some pretty good movement to it.

If your cap is on the driver side tank -- where is your upper hose? Assuming the bottom (suction) hose is on the passenger bottom...

With this arrangement - water should be coming into the tank from the upper hose.

And -- as long as I'm writing a book on cooling...


Is your bottom (suction side) hose reinforced?? It should have a spring inside of it to keep the hose open... they can be sucked almost closed at cruising speeds if they're not internally supported. Lots of guys just chuck the spring --- dumb move guys! These pumps move a LOT of water volume... you'd be shocked how much suction they can create.

All the fans in the world won't help you if the hose is collapsing....

You should be able to reach down and squeeze the hose to check for the spring.

You can also visually inspect the hose with the car running and have somebody rev the car up and watch to see if the hose is trying to suck in on itself.

Trust me i was checking the temp of almost everything lol. The rad reads different all throughout, nothing more than a 20* difference.

the headers get extremely hot, upwards of 200*f +.