Nope. Waiting on insurance to go any further.

What brand wheels are you using?

https://lmr.com/products/Black-SVE-Drift-Wheels

18x9 Front, 18x10 Rear. Front is +35mm for 2005-16 Mustang. Rear fitment is +22mm for 1994-04 Mustang. Front 255/40-18, rear 295/40-18, both are Falken Azenis RT615k.

My rear axle is narrowed and my car is mini-tubbed with relocated springs. I can tuck a 325/50-15 drag radial under, so a 325/30-19 or 335/30-18 would be no problem w/ the right wheel. Front is "stock" spindle '73-'76 A-body with an aftermarket brake package from Dr Diff. I could go with a 18x10 on the front w/ a 275/35-18 if I so desire. The current tire/wheel combo is relatively cheap and I bought them so we could do the body mods with the tallest tires I would likely ever run, I "tuned" the width with spacers for clearance checks. We ended up modifying the front fender slightly to gain turn in clearance that this body style does not lend itself to naturally. I also plan on abusing these tires as I tune the car and maybe use them permanently as track use wheels / tires.

That's gonna be a lot of fun

"18x10 with a 275 on the front"....is the car not lowered at all? Like you said these A bodies don't make it easy for bigger set ups, especially in the front. I'd love to know how you're able to get this to work without it looking like a swamp buggy.

Current tire is 255/40-18, which is 26". The 26" tire is too tall for the factory fender without mods. It will not clear the front corner on turn in so I changed the fender slightly to accommodate. I have 1.12" Firm Feel brand torsion bars, '73-'76 spindles, and QA1 lower control arms. Not all manufacturers of the bars get the indexing correct, larger bars need a different offset to get the height right and still have preload. I have yet to install bump stops, but may not need to with these T-bars, they are very stiff. It took 2 attempts to get the bars installed with the correct indexing, the first pass looked like it was ready for the Baja 1000. As it sits now I can go lower, a 275/35-18 is 25.6", so it is less than 1/4" different, so maybe 2 turns on the adjuster down. If I let the adjuster all the way out the fender is about even with the wheel lip and it is still not quite to the bump stops. Too small a diameter tire would not fill up the wheel well the same, that is for sure. It also has more ground clearance than it appears which is a nice side effect of the larger tires. The car sat a little lower with 165R15 front runners and 0.990" bars.

I need to drop the rear an inch or more, but I figured I would address that once all the interior, glass, and a half tank of fuel is in the car.

Picture from a different angle:

Thanks Michael. The car looks great in green and you've got a heck of a motor. I've been helping a buddy with his notch and for the height he's after I just couldn't see that wide of a tire working.
In the last pic, have you got full turning radius?

:cheers:

looking good. So I may have missed it, what'd you end up with for suspension?

Yes, it will turn lock to lock without touching the frame. I think somewhere around 275 you will start to rub the frame, not that it really affects the turn radius that much. I have seen 285 with clearance notched into the frame rails.

Dukeboy - suspension is just modified stock. 1.12" T-bars, tubular control arms, aftermarket strut rod on the front. Rear is monoleaf with Caltracs for now. After I get it running I will increase the front sway bar, see if I need a rear bar and go from there. I have heard good and bad regarding Caltracs. I'll see how it fares before I pass judgement, this is not a car that I am looking to compete at the pro or national level with. I just want it to work well, behave predictably, and have fun with it at the local level.

Following is a series of pictures of the fender modification.

First picture - no clearance, literally rubs on turn in. Second picture is the first cut of the pie cut, silver sharpie mark shows where second cut will be. Third picture is after pie cut is removed and lip is pushed forward. Fourth is after tack welds. Fifth is after rough body work is finished. And the last picture shows the minimum clearance after. The rear of the tire is close to the fender bolt, but running a button head there takes care of that issue along with good strut rods.

Wow what a difference. Nice work