My car came with a drill powered pump from the factory. Pull the "cam sensor"/distributor, pull the intermediate shaft with a pair of needle nose. One 3/8" hex shaft and a 20 year old 800 rpm electric drill. Spins the oil pump faster than if the car was at idle (oil pump spins at camshaft speed). Rotate the engine slowly by hand to push oil to all the galleries. Just have to know which way the intermediate and distributor was pointing. I mark the distributor at TDC and make a note on the intermediate shaft angle.

Takes 5 minutes, a 1/2" wrench, and a pair of needle nose to set up. Only thing I had to buy was the hex shaft. I wrapped the hex shaft with masking tape in the area where it passes through the bushing in case it happens to touch. This will be really handy for prefilling Accusump, oil cooler, and remote filter set-up.

I pull the belt and use a drill to prime mine, plus I have a RHS block that has priority main oiling so it's a different kettle of fish. On stock blocks the lifter galley gets the oil first. I pull the oil plug on the pan and prime it until I get a good flow of oil out of the pan, I do all this on a dyno stand so it may not be so easy with it in the car.

Bad Dyno day
 

I mounted mine just behind me on the tunnel in the car
Shutoff valve is right next to my seat.. I recently wrapped
the oil line with header heat wrap to help keep things cooler
but never really sensed any heat

Bob

Oil is NOT flowing into and out of this system.... it's only a in / out if it's needed - otherwise the oil is static. Only time it might heat up is if your car is needing the pressure during an event a few times (then something bad is going on!).

Michael ---- You may have missed that we're talking about a GM LS motor here... thus NO distributor... and no access to the oil pump.

Bummer for you... how does the LS spin the oil pump?

Edit: Never mind... I have seen one of those before - directly w/ the snout of the crank.

Yep, makes it a little more of a challenge, and thus my desire to find a good solution! :)

Accusump internals
 

My Accusump arrived yesterday. Ron Sutton ordered one for me that was not assembled so that I can have the cylinder recoated. It's on its way to the powder coater today. :)

I thought you all might be interested in seeing the internals of this unit. It's surprisingly simple. It's a piston and some o-rings, that's it.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m...pseikodwvf.jpg

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m...psj5s4mynf.jpg

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m...psjrr7eah0.jpg

Several things they have told me regarding the install which I'll relay here in case anyone else ever reads this:

• The mounts MUST be at the ends of the cylinder, capturing the threads of the end caps, so that you don't crush the tube
• The flat surface of the piston is the oil side (if anyone ever disassembles one)
• During disassembly or reassembly, do not do anything which would distort the cylinder. One suggestion was to use an oil filter remover that has the rubber strap and capture the cylinder in the same way the clamps should: right over the threads of the end caps
• Do not use thread sealer paste on any of the NPT fittings. Instead, only use the sealer tape

We'll have mine back next week and put it together. Simply coat the inner cylinder with a light coat of oil, put the o-rings on the piston (larger o-rings on the piston, smaller ones on the end caps), and slip it in. They also suggested a light coat of oil on the end threads to prevent the end cap threads from galling the cylinder threads.

On another forum, someone mentioned several people that had experienced problems with the Accusump units. I spent an hour reading what I could find today. Some here might be interested...

A few guys were having problems with the pop-off valve allowing oil to spew out in normal driving situations. It seems that someone (I think it may have actually been Danny Popp) determined that this was happening because the cylinder was losing its residual pressure when the engine was off. When the engine was started, there was a sudden inflow of oil pressure. With no air behind the piston, there was no 'cushion' effect to soften the impact of the fresh pressure, and it would cause the blow off valve to open. Seem that the air on the back side of the piston acts like a 'shock absorber' when there is a sudden pressure influx.

Makes sense to me.

But it seems the reason for losing the pressure was the important thing. A couple of guys reported problems with the internals of the air pressure gauge used on the units. So once I have my system active and charged, I will definitely check the pressure after the car sits to ensure that I'm not losing any pressure somehow...

Without the residual pressure, you have no accumulator. It's a reservoir. I would pressurize it with air after assembly and let is sit until the car is ready to fire. It should hold pressure indefinitely. I utilized mine for a couple years and it never lost any pressure and I had the clamps in the wrong place on purpose. It's fine as long as you don't over tighten. I would put them in the right spot if circumstance allowed.