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Any updates on this beast Bill?

A friend had the same issue you are having with a 540 BBC and front runner system. Because of the design of the front runner system they have to use a low profile Stewart water pump. He tried everything thermostats, radiator, etc. and nothing solved his issue until switching out to a Edelbrock Hi-Perf water pump. Took a little grinding on the pump to fit but the problem was solved. As a result the theory is the Stewart water pump used with the front runner system just does not move enough volume to properly cool a hi-perf BBC. Hope that may help.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cosmo mentis (Post 607319)

Any updates on this beast Bill?

While we haven't had any really warm weather yet, in 80 degree weather, the car runs exactly between 170 & 180 deg water temp... right where the fans are set to come on & off. A/C makes no difference. The stat is out, and it warms up at very near the same rate it did with the 160 stat.
All seems fine, and I'm leaving it this way unless really hot weather & A/C presents a problem.

Bill

Quote:

Originally Posted by cjfirstgen (Post 607324)

Interesting. Would love to know the flow differences between the Stewart & Edelbrock. I'm sure both companies have tested this, and I'd bet they'd both claim to work better.
I have always read Stewarts are the strongest pumps on the market, but they'll print anything you want in ads.

Bill

Quote:

Originally Posted by GregWeld (Post 604893)

I'm only going to weigh in here with some food for thought. I'm not trying to make a point - or start any arguments.

There are LOTS of cars running around that are far more powerful than what this motor is (not saying your's isn't powerful)... and these motors get RACED and raced hard.... which means that they're being spun up and held there for long periods of time... AND they're running thermostats. Including my race Mustang and Lotus.

Water only builds up pressure when it meets resistance (over simplified)... so I'd be looking at the flow of the radiator or the bottom hose being sucked closed (lacking the internal spring that is in place to keep it from doing that)... or some other simple issue that is restricting the flow other than the thermostat.

Greg,
I somehow missed this post (for a month). As usual, I agree 100% with what you say.
I have thought long & hard about other restrictions. I have springs in BOTH hoses. I have a new BeCool rad, the largest one they make. I even wondered if there was a defect in it that restricts flow, but the rad temp is consistent when checked with a temp gun. FWIW, the system holds pressure for days.... if you release the cap, it releases pressure 4-5 days after last driven.
I read a very detailed article about cooling system issues YEARS ago written by someone very credible (maybe Smokey) that said a 'stat is NECESSARY to build pressure in the block. This pressure prevents the hot spots (in the heads or low flow areas in certain blocks) from localized boiling, which further prevents cooling in that area. It made perfect sense.
I have ALWAYS run a stat, and it bothers me a little not to have one now. But as long as all is running well, the car heats up normally, and it runs at level temps, I am happy.

Bill

just wanted to say that the cap regulates pressure. It will release over pressure. What cap are you running and does the hose for your overflow hit the bottom of the bottle? Have the cap tested at any shop.

I always run a thermostat, never had any issues.