could use the drop cap....instead of spring change...that would push the spring down almost an 1-1/2 inches on the threads placing the adjuster closer to the center of the threads
.....i use the drop cap along with heavier springs on mine

For ****s and giggles I'll turn it the maybe 1 more thread all the way to the top... Which honestly won't matter because the last time I drove the car on base it literally ripped the pipe out of the back of the header collector so bad that I'm Welding up another collector and straight pipe section as we speak. I mean it tore it up good... Can't I just buy the parts I need to fix the problem, everyone sees I have a problem and I'm getting ready to deploy and my car has to be able to move more than a few feet without worries while im gone.

It's been a while since I looked at this issue, so I went back and re-read the entire thing.

Here's what I think at this point.
You stated your installed spring height is 5.875". Since the spring has a free length of 8" and a rate of 650#, that means it has compressed 2.125" and is holding up 1381.25# (that's for each spring). I don't remember off the top of my head the exact numbers on the 48 Hour Camaro, but that doesn't sound too far off from what it should be. (I'll check the numbers after the Holidays).

From this picture it doesn't look like the car is all that low:
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g1...psft35u3ed.jpg


Compare that to the 69 we built for GoodGuys using a TruTurn:
http://www.ridetech.com/69camaro/wp-...7/dsc_0197.jpg


This picture shows you can adjust the lower spring collar up maybe 3/8" (remember, whatever you adjust at the coil over will be almost twice as much at the wheel. So 3/8" at the shock gives you 3/4" at the wheel.):
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g1...psisufpymg.jpg


Though I cannot tell exactly what the measurement is in this pic, the installed length of the coil over, from the bottom of the stock frame pocket (where the ball and socket mount pushes on the frame) to the center of the lower coil over mounting bolt should be around 12 inches. If you adjust the spring to the absolute top of the threads (covering the small, smooth gap) to attain the 12 inch measurement, then we need more spring rate:
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g1...pstyoyc83l.jpg


As I don't think the car is that low, and we have adjustability at the spring, I think that the real issue is that the exhaust hangs down too far:
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g1...psvvfdaapu.jpg


Compare that to another first gen that has nothing below the frame rails (this is Steve Hayes' Camaro which uses a DSE subgframe, but it's the best picture I've ever seen of illustrating how to keep everything under the car. . . just like your Z06):
http://hayes-ent.com/images/Camaro/Dragon129-2.jpg


If the exhaust didn't hit, would the ride height be ok?

I do think you'll likely end up with higher rate springs, but I want to make sure we get the whole story so we don't give you a higher rate then hear back in 3 weeks that the ride quality sucks.

I'll take the spanner and turn it like crazy tomorrow. I drove the car daily in San Diego with no problems with the same exhaust, just a different small block setup... It goes between iron headed XFI controlled pro charger in San Diego to aluminum headed 142 supercharged carb setup in Memphis, to moving out to Virginia beach... Iron head, carb, 406. (Here is where I added the Tru turn setup) It's the same headers, etc. i love the car... I just can't really drive it anywhere without ripping the exhaust off of it. For comparison, the Austin Healey sprite I built with a SBC and side pipes goes out of the drive way, it doesn't drag at all. Probably due to shorter wheel base, etc... But either way, I promise the springs are turned to the max and I never had a problem before. I realize I'm probably the 1% guy with an issue but I still love the product, and I love old cars.... Since I literally daily drive one every day... I just want to reliably get the one I have out of the driveway and around without issues. I'll pull the spanner out and give it hell and report back. Thanks for responding back btw. It says a lot for your service.

That exhaust is way too low. Goal is nothing below the frame rails for a lowered car as Britt said.

Don

the problem is the exhaust is too low my car with a truturn looks like sits lower then yours 23 1/4 inch from the floor to the fender and i never scraped anything on the bottom of the car. my friends car had the same problem with headers to low we raised the transmission by adding spacers to the mount and helped with engine angle and problem went way.

im not changing my exhaust, unless I swap to an entirely different engine. The exhaust was fine in San Diego, it was fine in Memphis, I added the Tru turn, now turned completely up I'm ripping my exhaust off. Several people in here have agreed with exactly what I'm saying, and had similar problems. I love the setup but it's too low for me for driving in Virginia beach. Everything was fine on my car before this. I have great suspension aside from this, I just need the fix to raise my car up before deployment. The boss has to be able to move the car around while I'm gone.

The exhaust was fine before as the vehicle was at least 2" higher, therefor affording additional ground clearance at the offending collector flanges.

When you added the TruTurn you replaced the stock spindles with tall, 2" drop spindles. So the ride height, and the frame rail/motor/exhaust, is now 2" lower than it was before.

To the layman it may seem simple enough to just turn the spanner on the coil over and raise the ride height, or install higher rate springs which will artificially raise the ride height. However these ARE NOT the answer. If you raise by either method you will top out the shock. . .ride quality will suffer. . .and our 1,000,001 mile warranty go out the door (improper installation).

I designed these so the shock had 60% of travel available for compression, 40% for extension. So if you stray too far from the advised ~12 inch installed height at the coil over you will run out of shock travel.
If you install greatly higher rate springs you will not only run out of extension travel at the shock, but the increased spring rate will ride like hell.
Like I stated, you will likely end up with slightly higher spring rates (probably 700-725's). But they WILL NOT raise the ride height. That is determined by the position of the lower spring adjuster and our advised ~12-inch installed height.

If you absolutely will not change the exhaust and must raise it back up, put the stock spindles back on. But be advised that handling will suffer as the CG is raised, but more importantly, the camber gain is back to OE specs. . .which is terrible.

If you want higher rate springs we'll need to know the front/rear weight of your car as you intend to drive it. After all this discussion I need to know exactly what that car weighs to get this right!
Be aware. . .if the weight changes, so does the height.

Copy all, so keep all the other components and just swap to factory height disc spindles to get back to a 2 inch raise?

Keep in mind...if you change back to the oem spindle, in addition to raising the car by 2", the Tru Turn suspension geometry is ruined. Your headers may not drag but the car will handle worse than it did stock.

I really hope you can see your way clear to change the header/exhaust package. You and your car will be much happier. I do understand that it is extra work/expense, but it is truly the correct way to do it. One of the sad realities of building a proper hotrod.