Lateral-g Forums - My Dynacorn 1969 Convertible Body Camaro

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- - My Dynacorn 1969 Convertible Body Camaro (https://www.lateral-g.net/forums/showthread.php?t=5460)

BT lookin good keep up the good work.

Chris

That is looking good, I love the wheels...Fikse right???
The 8k paint and body budget should have been thrown out the window imediately after you thought of it . An 8 k paint job probably would not have made you to happy with the end product .

keep us posted . what are the specs on the wheels?

Datsbad,
Thanks. The wheels are Fikse FM10. The fronts are 18X9.5 with 6.5" backspacing, and the rears are 18X11 with 5" backspacing. There is a good deal of room behind the rear wheels, and I could have easily fit 12" wheels with 6" backspacing.

As far as the paint and body goes, I will be using the guy in Houston who is considered the best in the area with 1st gen Camaros. I will pay what it costs, and it should be perfect at the end of the day.

P.S. FUEL turned out awesome!! I love the black.
I was thinking about calling my car X-rod since it is not a real Camaro, and will have the Merlin X-Block. Too corny?

Thanks,
BT

Mr.BThibodeaux does this car look familer to you, i bought it in houston about 1yr ago.by the way nice project :thumbsup:

Cam69,
Yep, you bought it from me in Sugar Land. You live in south Texas right? I hope you ripped that 307 out of it. It looks like you have a few projects there to keep you busy.

Quote:

Originally Posted by BThibodeaux

Cam69,
Yep, you bought it from me in Sugar Land. You live in south Texas right? I hope you ripped that 307 out of it. It looks like you have a few projects there to keep you busy.

I recognized your last name,the 307 is still in ,just with some aluminum heads,cam,and alot more googies.those are projecs from customers were working on.i see you have asome project there looks very,very nice :thumbsup: :bow:

Ah, the pass side quarter rears it's ugly head once again. I have the same problem with my CARS built 69 vert body. I talked to the Year one guys at the Columbus GGs. They bought the blue car's body from CARS. The YR1 guys said there is something wrong with stamping around the floor on the pass side which leads to poor quarter fitment and issues lining up the leaf spring pocket. I have a DSE quad link under mine and I had to remove all of the adjustability of the swivel links in order to bolt the lower link arm into the leaf spring pocket.

I don't know about the SC shop that you got yours from, but CARS does not test fit the doors, deck lid and top prior to shipping. QA is completely absent. All of the stuff in the Hot Rod article is pure B.S. The pass door on my car fits like sh*T as does the deck lid. You can see where they have widened the tail pan bolt holes inorder to line it up with the inner structure. I haven't checked the angle of the a-pillars but YR1 said to expect them to be off. I am waiting until I have the sub underneath and all of the metal on before I continue to press CARS. I hope your car is put together better.

You are right, for 10Grand, I expect better.
A little about CARS inc:
No, I doubt they have built a car using their 17 digit VIN. The stamp they use is so weak that when they primer the car in that god awful red oxide, you can't read the numbers. They use the Federal Re-bodying act to transfer VINs from old wrecked verts to these new bodies being built for turn key. Their original plan was to issue a MSO and license their cars for the HOT ROD replicas in partnership with HOT ROD Magazine. Apparently customers do want to title their cars as 69 camaros for 90 grand so that is why they transfer VIN plates. I received a certificate of origin that does not state that they are a manufacturer (because they aren't), it only decribes that it is a replica body and it lists the serial number assigned.

I had a newbie question. I don't have the big bucks like most of you guys, so my idea was to find a good drive and do my pro touring car peacemeal. This would not be my only means of transportation, so that I why i think it may work. Has anyone else done this or does everyone just do it all at once.

Thanks,

Weaver

Quote:

Originally Posted by BThibodeaux

I have been watching cars on Lateral-G for about a year, but I just joined today. As the title indicates, I am building a car from scratch utilizing the Dyanacorn convertible body. This is my 4th car to build, and based on past experiences I anticipate it will be another year and a half before this one is done. So, I guess I am asking that everyone be patient with me. Here are the details in list format:

Body Modifications:
Inset round brushed aluminum bezeled A/C vents in the dash
Firewall partially smoothed
Mini-tubs from DSE
RS headlight assemblies converted to electric utilizing the Retro-Electric conversion kit
Marquez design parking/blinker lights converted to driving lights
Marquez design RS tail light bezels
Foam insulation (Great Stuff) sprayed into all void spaces in the body

Drivetrain/Suspension:
Merlin X block based all aluminum 540 CID fuel injected motor
TKO 600 5 spd. transmission from Keisler
Ford 9" rear end from Currie
Wayne Due subrame utilizing C-4 Corvette components and QA-1 coil overs, power rack and pinion steering
Air Ride technologies triangulated four link rear suspension utilizing QA-1 coil overs rather than air bags
Global West subframe connectors and DSE solid body mounts
13" Corvette ZR-1 breaks with Baer Eradispeed rotors up front; and 12" Baer brakes in the rear
Fikse FM-10 wheels on Michelen tires - 18"X9.5" up front and 18"X11" in the rear
Ron Davis aluminum radiator with dual 13" fans and custom overflow reservoir
Rick's Hot Rod Shop stainless gas tank
3" exhaust with 4"X14" round Magnaflow mufflers used as resonators and 4"X14" oval Magnaflow mufflers (I like it quiet)

Interior:
Deluxe door panels and quarters with brushed stainless inserts
Black leather Corbeau front seats, with the rear seat narrowed (for the mini-tubs) and stitched to match the fronts
DSE instrument panel painted gloss black with white faced and stainless bezeled Classic Instruments, round brushed aluminum bezeled Vintage Air A/C vents, matching round brushed aluminum headlight and wiper switches, Watson Streetworks oval brushed aluminum dual switch panel for driving lights and power top, Alpine head unit with brushed aluminum finish
Custom consol coverd in black leather, incorporating Vintage Air A/C controls and Watson Streetworks oval brushed aluminum quad switch panel for Electric Life power windows
Steering wheel - Undecided

Other:
DSE multi-speed wiper motor and switch kit
DSE polycarbonate halogen headlights
Dual Optima batteries mounted in trunk
American Autowire wiring with the fuse panel mounted in the trunk
Lots of relays for all of the accessories
Custom subwoofer box in trunk with a singl 10" sub
Vintage Air Compac II mounted using the DSE bracket
Vintage Air Front Runner set up
The car will be painted black, and the top will be black

There you go. My mail order G machine.

I will submit some photos of what has been done so far soon. At this point the instrument panel is done; the front suspension is on the powdercoated subframe; the mini-tubs and rear suspension are done; the headlight assemblies are converted to electric. That is about it. The rest of the parts are either in the rafters of my garage or in stacks on the floor.

I would be interested to hear about other people's experiences with Dynacorn bodies. Mine was built by American Muscle Cars in Southern California.

I wonder if you could buy one of these in pieces and haul it to someone like Mike's Custom Cars who is well know for re-sheetmetaling first gen's and doing an excellent job.

Mike

Quote:

Originally Posted by Weaver

I think it can be done if you start with a very solid car that has no rust issues. The thing is, if you find a car like this it will most likely already have been restored and priced accordingly. One big reason I decided to go with a Dynacorn body is that I would have needed to get rid of a bunch of stock components considering the way I am building the car. This is why I sold the blue car you see earlier in this thread. Even though that car was a good "driver" it really needed to come apart to get rid of all of the rust before any money was put into it to build a pro touring car.