+1 for a bolt on upgrade ! I have been playing around with the settings in EFILive, trying to lessen the effects of the fans turning on. With only one fan turning on at low speed it was enough to stress out my charging system, and almost kill the truck at idle.. As luck would have it, GM made 2 different options for alternators for the GMT800 trucks, a small frame and a large frame alternator (I wont get into specific model#s here)..

Of those two options, I had the weakest of the small frame option. My truck only had a 105amp alternator from the factory, and that was in 2003.. They also made a 145amp version for my year, but my truck was NOT equipped with it. They also made a larger frame alternator that is generally rated higher in amperages and an overall better alternator. I was going to get one of the larger framed alternators and upgrade the stator and internals to make it a higher amp unit, but I ended up stumbling on a HIGH AMP version For just a little bit more on Amazon than the parts themselves were going to cost me and there was no core charge !

Best of all, it was literally a plug and play setup. Unbolt old weaker unit, bolt in godzilla alternator and never look back. I also upgraded the charging wire from the small stocker to a 2 ga unit. Fortunately the unit I installed had an overdrive pulley installed that made up for the diameter difference, it left me just inside the 'acceptable' range on the tensioner, win win win !!

I found a test sticker on the unit saying it put out 100amp at idle and 253amps at full load. My volt gauge on the dash never drops below 14v and I can no longer tell when the fans cycle on/off. For $140/shipped from Amazon, I'd say it was a good mod.


https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.per...6a0c7e1c7e.jpg

Regarding the front swaybar, ran out of luck on that today.. I finally got fed-up waiting on Ron Sutton Race Technologies to deliver on what they promised 3 weeks ago.. I felt I've been in communication and very patient. However in the end, it appears that their interest is in educating people on suspension designs vs. providing parts even though I pre-paid $750 towards the custom setup. It all ended well, they were most polite, it just seems too busy to fulfill the order.

Egads I about make myself sick when I think about spending that much $$ for a front swaybar, if it worked however it would be worth it. Back to the drawing board I suppose.. I already have a few leads from another place and the prices appear to be a little more reasonable, time to do more research and rely less on others I suppose.. More updates to follow ! :thumbsup:

Patience is the watch word when working with Ron these days. If they actually promised you a date or implied it would be sent on a short time frame that's one thing but if the sway bar is a unique width then it has to be custom built. If you just needed a typical 1.25" hollow bar they should be available quickly in lots of widths. But as an example I ordered a custom width 1.75" swaybar direct from Speedway and it took 2+ months.

I'm not really going to get into the specifics here, it just isnt worth it. I am not trying to start a war against a vendor here. Last night when I posted I was upset about it, but whatever, I am over it. The guys at RSRT were polite and responsive when I contacted them. The refund has been issued, I am moving on..

The guys at JSM were a help again, when I contacted them inquiring about any leads for a splined bar they gave me a few leads I didn't know about previously and ones that my searching didn't find. I was hoping for a more calculated way of acquiring parts than just shooting in the dark and praying I got close, thats why I had deferred to the experts initially. No worries, I got this, just need to dig in a little harder and ask some more questions.

Anyhow, between the links I already collected and the ones JSM helped with, I am going to list them up here for someone that may be interested and for posterity.


Coleman Racing, I haven't actually called these guys so I don't yet know what to expect, but its another lead and hopefully will prove fruitful:
http://www.colemanracing.com/Sway-Ba...ine-P3795.aspx

This was the golden nuggetI had been searching for, a sway bar rate calculator:
http://www.gtsparkplugs.com/Sway-Bar-Calculator.html

The Speedway Engineering website has a lot of good information:
http://1speedway.com/index.php?route...tegory&path=76

Detroit Speed Swaybar Setup via Summit Racing (not the best option IMO):
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/d...FcZcMgod8AUA9Q

Schroeder Torsion Bars (they go all the way upto Monster Trucks!):
http://schroedersteering.com/

Speedway Motors (Not Speedway Engineering) REAR SWAYBAR Universal Kit (may need this for the rear?? IDK yet):
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Univer...-Kit,4053.html


Anyhow I am sure there is more, but this is what I have at the moment. More to follow..

I scored a Hydroboost and master cylinder off a wrecked '04 Tahoe at the wrecking yard for $40, it even came with one of the hydro lines. I'm going to hold off installing it until a later time, it will be soon, but not immediately. However, I did upgrade the rear disc brakes with a set of larger Tahoe rear brakes..

In my opinion, the difference between the two is impressive.. The rotors go from 12.8" to 13.0", but perhaps more impressive is the upgrade in the pad sizing. With the installation of the rear Tahoe calipers, the upgrade is from single piston to twin pistons calipers that allow for the larger pads...

The Tahoe rear calipers are twin piston, the stock Silverado are a single piston design.

Here's a picture of one painted up with silver caliper paint and black semi-gloss on the support frame.

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.per...fb54de5ad7.jpg

Here is a comparison of the stock (worn) pad and the new replacement '07 Tahoe pads (new).

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.per...73f78a77b8.jpg

Here's what it looks like all completed and installed, I just need to bleed the brakes and then it's driveable again:

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.per...644f19fee9.jpg


https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.per...a4e5bfba20.jpg


I have about $225 into this upgrade, in all honesty, I needed new brakes anyhow. The rear rotors were SHOT, they were less than .750" thick, as a comparison, the Tahoe rotors are over 1.250" thick. The pads were cracked and tired, I could have gone totally cheap and just done rotors and pads, but this upgrade is a hard one to pass up for the money invested. The fron't will be up next, probably also going with Tahoe or Suburban rotors/calipers/pads on that. That will yield a larger rotors as well..

Here is a list of parts I had to complete this swap for the 100% bolt in.

These parts are from Advance Auto, but Advance merged with Carquest here and these parts were actually Carquest parts:

1ea 18B4764 twin piston left rear caliper)
1ea 18B4765 twin piston right rear caliper)

2ea YH145441P rear rotors 13.0" diameter
1set PXD834H rear SUV ('07 Tahoe) brake pads

Hey Guys,

Just and update, its been kinda crazy here lately so I haven't been doing as much with the truck as I'd like to, well at least not FUN things.

We had a pool installed and I've been trying to get the yard back to some sort of normalcy since then so unfortunately, I've been doing truck things with my autocross toy..

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.per...a69679828c.jpg

and

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.per...7902cec56f.jpg

The truck has taken it in stride. I just max out the airbags at around 110-120 psi and it just takes it. The brakes have been a welcomed upgrade for sure when doing this.. When I am done, just let the air out of the 'bags and I am back to a smooth riding truck. phump

It hasn't been all work and no play, last weekend we had a local SCCA event that I went to and competed. It was soo damn hot out, the heat index was north of 110*... That's a long time to be standing out in a parking lot ! So I was looking for some shade, anywhere to park the truck, overall it was still a good time.

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.per...61a316814a.jpg


I ordered some PAC1218 springs from eBay, they came in yesterday. I'll try to get them on the truck soon and order a Sloppy Cam and start working on re-tuning the truck.

Then it will be decision time, do I go turbo kit and risk annihilating the 4L60e or do I take the safe route and start on the 4L80e I have sitting in the shed ??? Haven't decided yet.. :bang:

I personally wouldn't turbo charge the engine if you want to keep your throttle response for autocross. I'd look into a supercharger. You can do an LSA blower swap or spend the bigger bucks and get the newer blower. There's also a Magnacharger or Edlebrock kit which uses an Eaton blower. Those will all give you instant torque and throttle response. Good luck whatever you choose.

I hear ya man, to be honest, I've gone back and forth on this issue now for a little over a year.. I've weighed the supercharger vs. turbo debate for what I want to do with the truck.. I'll be honest, around here they run some pretty wide open courses. If I was still running in a region that ran mostly parking lots then I'd tend to agree with you. The reality is, most of the regions here run on old airport ramps with a LOOOT of area. Tuning is key with a turbo, and these days the technology incorporated in the turbo is lightyears ahead of what it used to be.. With a 4.8L and a properly sized turbo boost can be had at 2000-2500 rpm range, add a 2800 rpm stall and its all good. In all honesty the only place I probably wont see boost is off the line and I can foot brake that.. I've owned supercharged and turbocharged cars in the past and I feel the best balance is with the turbocharger.. Eventually I plan on going with a semi-built 6L to replace the 4.8, so light off will be even better..

Anyhow, I do appreciate the feedback, its been perhaps the biggest argument I've been wrestling with on this whole project.

I know the feeling. Mine was to build the LT or bite the bullet and switch to LS. Just remember, it can all be changed. It's only money :G-Dub: lol

Good luck!

At least you aren't trying to run a truck with a V6!