Why the latches? Also wondering if you thought of just using the windows and guts etc. from the 73-74 doors so you could still use the door panels from the 68-72 car? Maybe your not using stck panels so it doesnt matter.

The late model latches close smoothly without slamming, more like a late model car. Plus we convert them to electric so we can shave the stock lock cylinder.

We could've transferred everything to the original door but since we need to reskin and patch them anyway it made more sense to swap the whole door. The channels as well as the inner door frames with the regulator mounting would need to be grafted. We'll probably leather wrap the 73 door panels and build rears to match.

I was wondering on the doors because i have a 72 with perfect doors but I also have 73 doors because I want that vent gone. Sounds like a lot of work to keep the 72 doors instead of swapping. Was it hard to put the latches in and what year car are they from? Thanks a lot for the help. Sweet car you've got!

I was able to pull the pins and install the passenger door, but the drivers door sat way low so I had to separate the hinges and move it up. The customer supplied the new doors that didn't seem to need as much work (until blasting) so that seemed to be the best route.

I'd say if your original doors are solid and already fit then you may be better off looking at converting them.

I usually use a 2010 Malibu door latch, this time I used 2015 Camaro latches as they have a slightly longer interior pull cable. They aren't "hard" to install, just take time and patience. You'll need to fill the three stock screw holes and drill new ones. Then reshape the latch cutout. The stock striker hole will need to be filled and a new cage plate made for the new GM striker. You'll then need to install electric poppers and mount an electronic micro switch to the outside handles. Don't forget a mechanical cable hidden somewhere in case of a dead battery. All in all it takes about a day and a few hundred dollars for the GM latches. Well worth not having to slam doors over and over on a fresh build.

Hey Aaron,
can you source the poppers and micro switch? or know where I can get them from locally? Mechanically it doesn't work well with the standard handles, but the Lokar electronic handles are very tempting

The poppers are autoloc 10# available from Summit or Amazon but prefer to build better brackets so they don't loosen. I have a supplier I get switches from. The stock handles aren't hard to convert. It involves making a small small bracket and mounting to the handle with #4 button heads.

Perfect, thanks for the information as always

I'm glad this was asked. I don't necessarily want electric door poppers, but I've always been curious about the new latch and striker bolts. Especially now as I'm currently dealing with a loose door on the TA from worn out latch and striker components.

Thanks for the great info Aaron.

Yes, thanks for the information. Awesome stuff! I was thinking the same thing about the original doors which fit great. I guess I will just modify them since they fit perfect. I am not sure what is involved in that? Gosh I hate those VENTS!!

Tucked and modified front bumper.