My opinion hasn't changed, I don't think you will like the results of the manual brakes on that beautiful street car. I'd be looking towards the C6 vete specs for a booster and master cylinder and do it right once. That will get you a modern brake feel with lighter pedal effort.

9" dual diapragm booster with 1-1/8 master, its what I run, DSE runs, and I'm sure a few others. Once I get the prop valve dialed and pads bedded, its effortless braking and like pulling the parachute.

Bingo was her name O.

Two words NO ROOM!

Whoops :D

Maybe hydroboost would fit. Check with Paul at Hydratech.

Don

I have posted this before, I apologize if I sound like a broken record. You need clamping force or friction. A little of both or a lot of one or the other.

Assuming your hydraulics are functioning properly, it sounds like you don't have enough of either.

Do carbon brakes actually generate more braking power? Serious question. I looked around a bit and didn't see anyone that states that these brakes have a higher friction coefficient. They are lighter, and last longer (:rolleyes:), and can handle more heat than iron rotors, but do they actually stop better?

Get a pressure gauge and hook it to the front brakes and see if how much line pressure you are building. Check it a 3-4 times with moderate pedal pressure and then 3-4 more with all you got. With line pressures a known we can come up with a clamping force at the caliper.

Two words - NOT NECESSARY

Hey Mario. Looks like you and Donny are both in Illinois. Why don't you take the car to him and let him fix it.

Don

How about taking it back to the builder and letting them finish their job.... and making this stuff right?? :idea: