You didnt count your recipts four times did you?

I have thought about it.

Nope!

Dam.....best of luck to ya.

We have a friend that has a procharged 64 nova running a P1sc non intercooled 358 running 9lbs of boost. I am sure he would compare set ups with you if you wanted to. I know his has a cam in it for a supercharger because we got it for him.

Sell your carb, intake, wideband, and get a holley wideband efi set up. Your not going to get any money out of it not running right. I was in the same boat as you. I was running a carb on my blow thru set up and ready to get rid of it. I went with efi now I'm able to drive my car anywere. I'll help you out!! I live in the area. Think about it don't give up its only a car.
Email me,
[email protected]

Thanks Travis. Yeah if you can have him, or you send me your info, this would educate me a bit more on this stuff. I know Jody has been in contact with CAR for the stuff that needs to be done, and they are both on the same page, so I might as well try it. First, a new carb hat is needed. The one we have is junk. Who makes the best carb hat? One issue with the carb hats is the end of the hat on ours sticks out straight and comes close to the hood, EV's hat has a dip at the end keeping it away from the hood, which we like. Second, we need to cool off the incoming charge. Water or NOS is an option at this point I guess, I'm just not real fond of either, just something else that can go wrong. Water is cheaper then NOS, and you can get water almost anywhere. NOS refills around here is hard to come by. Third with the cooling of the intake charge, we should be able to raise timing. How much I don't know. I just hate to have to run water as a bandaid to fix a problem like this, but at this point this is all I can think of to fix this issue. Id rather just have a 434 or 454SBC and be done with it.

How much are they, and how much is something like that to implement? Thank you for your offer. :thumbsup:

I think I spent about $2000 or so on the set up. Holley efi comander 950. Sell your carb, intake, etc.. and your halfway there. I'll pm you my ph# and we can talk.

Mike, first of all, we sell nitrous at Goodies. Second, if you do go to EFI, you could talk to Paul over here. He's a great tuner. Third, good god you're going through hell right now. But take your own advice that you gave me. Be patient and it will come to you. I know you want the car done, but don't let it beat you. It seems this kind of stuff happens to a lot of guys. Just ask Jon...

I know hood clearance is an issue for you.. I have a spare 4-inch Harwood cowl hood (Penny's old hood) hanging in my garage.. you can have it for free, but it would need to be painted. I'll even bring it halfway to ya :)

Tall cowl hoods are fine if they serve a functional purpose..

That's a real nice offer Steve. It really is. It shows what kind of person you are. But I think we are going to try and keep this hood. It's a real GM hood, and I would hate to give it up right now. Tom may or may not have found a hat that might work, I think he's looking for conformation on that. One more thing I think we found out, is that my new Boyd Coddington wheel is bent. This is the replacement to the one that blew off. Less then 300 miles on it, and I noticed it on the dyno the other day. I was hoping it was the tire or axle. :mad:

Id love to go with EFI. Only problem, is that it's expensive. The cost of one starts at around 2k and up, plus putting it in would be even more. It would cure all of my carb issues though. and hat isses as well. I just can't afford it right now. I would do that in a second. What kind of deals on NOS if any? :unibrow:

Why not do the install yourself and pay someone to tune it?

I would if I knew how. I don't pretend to know about EFI stuff. Plus, I don't have a EFI system.

I would think that selling your current carb, intake and supercharger would more than cover buying an EFI set-up. I'm sure many here would help with the install.

Or, as suggested, the other option is to just go to a carb and intake for now and bank the $ from the sale of the supercharger. This way you have a car to have fun with and you can "de-stress" for a while.

This way you have a car to have fun with and you can "de-stress" for a while.[/QUOTE]

I agree 100% with this statement. Driving it (even without the WOW factor of all the cool parts) will put a smile on your face, as will the crowd that will gather everywhere you go with a car that looks like that. You could throw a Q-Jet on that thing and still have a nicer car that most people will ever even see.
I was (am) at a similar point with my race car (as JayR can attest to) the $$ I kept throwing at it, the parts failures, and the associatied stress made me want to give up. I even contemplated selling the car, but when I sat down to attach a price to it, I physically felt ill. The car is now parked, and I will work on my street car for a couple of years. Someday I will want to race again, and the car is waiting for me. It is still in need of repair, but the foundation is there. There is no way I could build another from scratch. Don't sell the car (unless you need to do it for the good of your family) because you have a good foundation, and starting over would be 10 times as hard. and at least 10 times as expensive.
Good Luck!
Tim

Well the only problem with this Steve is that the supercharger had to be machined to work. Pulleys where machined, and was matched for this block. Just to get it too fit had major issues that selling it might be a problem. A EFI system with this setup though might be the way to go. This carb is a nightmare to tune, and it's a pain to drive. Ill have it this weekend, and I will be taking it to this show this weekend http://carcrazypromotions.org/index.html if it makes it. I think the EFI would cure all of my drivability issues. A good intake tube would also help with intake temperatures, but making one is going to cost $$$. The hat is cheap and we are going to try that as well, but who knows how it's all going to work. I think a good EFI system would help with the timing and create a good intake for the supercharger, but again it's all money baby.

Carl's car show this weekend
 

MIke,

Chris here. I am glad to hear you plan to go to Carl's show this weekend in San Mateo. Carl is a good guy and puts on a great show. What's more, you will be able to begin to feel good about your car again as I am sure folks will be diggin your Camaro.

Like everyone else is saying....hang in there, it will work out.

Chris

Drive it out here and I will install the EFI for free, if you wanted you could also do a L98 setup from a third gen for real cheap for now then get a good efi setup later.

Hell, there you go.

Mike, before you get to excited about a $2000 fuel injection set up. Unless you have a tuner that is REALLY good with that particular system, you will be on suicide watch after your FI adventure. You only think this carb is a pain in the ass until you get a FI system no one can tune. I HIGHLY suggest finding a tuner and a system they use if you even consider FI.

I have had no luck at all with "package systems" in Forced induction applications and have been forced to use more elaborate sytems like DFI, FAST, and Bigstuff, which by the time you buy everything you need will run you up into the $4000 range pretty quick.

Your not trying to push a ton of boost thorugh that carb, you should be able to find someone that can tune it.

Then something is wrong.

Back when my car was blowthrough I drove it frequently, even in stop and go traffic between the central valley and the bay area quite a few times (one of those 90 miles in 3 hour trips.) My carb worked fine, A/C on, in 100 degree heat.

A good blowthrough carb will drive and perform very well. It won't have as good of economy as EFI but driveability and and power should not be an issue with a properly setup blowthrough carb.

A poor hat will kill driveability and tuneability because of poor and uneven airflow distribution even if you have the best carb prep in the world.

I would strongly suggest trying a good hat as the next logical step and from there move onto looking closer at the carb. A carb hat isn't that much money and might solve your problems.

The Carb Shop
 

Mike,

You may want to call these guy's and talk to them about your problems if you really think it is carb-related. We know you don't want to spend any more money but you might be able to ship the carb down to them in Ontario, California. I have not used them but I have talked to guys that had problems, called them and bought the carb that corrected the issues. Maybe they can do something on existing? here is their website http://www.customcarbs.com/Home.htm

I wish I had the time to go to MA. Thanks for that great offer though. That was cool of you to do that. :cheers:

Yeah I think you're right about that. Do you know which carb hat has worked best in the past? Hood clearence is also an issue. It's not the hat itself, but the end of the hat from the pipe that comes into it.

I had no prior experience with efi. With a little help from delta t at pro-touring.com (he has a 383 with a vortech and holley efi) we got it tuned. Its not a hard system and does what I need it to do. Alot of people are running this efi setup with no problems. Sorry it didnt work out for you frank. I think its a great system for the $$. Chevytalk.com has a lot of info for holley efi check it out. A member on this site is a engineer for holley. I know alot of people are running carbs with no problems but for all the money you need to spend on a carb, wideband etc.. You could go efi for a few bucks more and tune on a laptop. Better than changing jets and airbleeds.

Frank should of just talked you into one of those World all aluminum BBC. More power, less money, and less hassle. ;)

EV, CSU, and SDCE all make the good hats. I posted a couple pages back with a link.

I think the SDCE hat is going to be the lowest of all the options (and it includes an integrated surge valve mount to simplify things)-- but it wouldn't hurt to call and get measurements for all of them.

Even if you have to leave the hood off for dyno testing at least you can rule out the hat as a problem... or if you're really lucky it will fix the problem.

If I hadn't sold my SDCE-modded hat last year I'd let you borrow it for testing. Worked great on my car at 15 psi.

Rule Out the hat
 

+1 Rule out the hat.

Carbs do work. EFI is hard to tune, also. Find a guy in your area that tune a lot of EFI if you are going to change to EFI. Packaged/pre tuned EFI are not good in all situations.

the carb is not the issue....

I would look at the hat and the cam before changing anything else.

The cam is not the issue either, the hat and intake temp is very high. Too high.

I think you are on the right track. Intake heat is a HP killer. Get fresh outside air if you can and cut down any air restriction.


I was able to put 12" x 8" round air filter under the fender, and splash shielded it from the wheel.

Yeah we are working on looking at air to water intercoolers. New hat is being bought next week.

Ok, the car is home for the weekend so I can drive it around. I have a question for the guys here. What is the best air to water intercooler out there? I don't have the real estate for a full air to air. What do you guys think?

I've had Turbonetics make me a couple of them for other cars I've worked on and was very happy with them. They use Spearco cores. Turnaround time was pretty good too, typically less than 3 weeks. CAR could also order up just a core and build their own tanks if you wanted to go that route.

In one of the installs I used a pump and heat exchanger off a Ford Lightning and rigged up my own water tank. The price was right for the pump and heat exchanger and I know they work. The car was making about 700hp and I'm fairly certain under sustained abuse (i.e. 20 minute track session) that the setup would heatsoak and could benefit from a larger heat exchanger, but because the owner typically cruises it and only gives it a quick blast occasionally the stock Lightning heat exchanger was more than adequate.

An air/water setup can and will work well, especially for drag use. Putting icewater in the tank really wakes things up. :thumbsup:

Still, if you can fit a properly sized air/air unit in I prefer that for simplicity's sake, but I understand the packaging difficulties around your RS headlight setup. I also recommending going with water injection even with the intercooler. Depending on how aggressive you want to tune it the water injection will either give you a larger safety margin or it will let you run more timing and make more power... depends on how far you want to push things.

It sounds like you're more in favor of a put together setup instead of a vortech or an aftermarket type of deal? I was thinking of a more aggressive water cooler then what comes with the air to water packages, and then adding watter wetter type of thing.

I've never messed with any of the Vortech air/water aftercoolers so I can't give any recommendation on them.

I'm in favor of buying a Spearco or equivalent core sized for your application and then build the end tanks to best fit your space requirements. Turbonetics has a bunch of off-the-shelf cast end tanks that you can pick and choose from, you might be able to make one work. Make foam-core or similar mockups of the intercooler and fit them in the car before buying to make sure it and the tubing will work.

Turbonetics and other guys do sell air/water kits complete with heat exchanger and pump.

You might get lucky and find an off-the-shelf piece that will work and if you do by all means buy it as it will probably be the cheapest option compared to buying just a core and then having custom end-tanks made.

Water Wetter or any other kind of surfectant isn't a bad idea. You still need an corrosion inhibitor of some sort in the air/water system to prevent corrosion, electrolysis, & sludge buildup just like your radiator and engine cooling system. All OEM air/water setups I have seen use a pressurized reservoir similar to a late model detached coolant reservoir, however they usually use a somewhat low pressure cap on the order of 5-7 psi or so. If you have the space by all means buy an OEM reservoir, all the work is done for you and all you need to do is mount it. Ford Lightnings & Cobras are good sources for reservoirs, pumps, and heat exchangers, as are some of the supercharged C-class Mercedes (but prepare to pay the Benz tax.) There are even some trick aftermarket all-aluminum replacement heat exchangers for the Lightnings and Cobras.

I know the Lightning heat exchangers are about 10" x 26" or so-- they're pretty wide. I don't know if you'd be able to squeeze that around your RS headlamps. It might fit below the headlamp doors though.

have a look here... they're not small by any means.

http://www.seanhylandmotorsport.com/...roducts_id=374

any update on the situation on the engine yet??? Hope things are going better for you...

Blessings,

Hey thanks. Well we are going to have to have a custom made intercooler made for the setup. It's a water to air cooler, but we are trying to get a lot of size in it. The hat came yesterday and the car went back today so they will put it on next week. Also having a problem with the braking system. The hydroboost works, but when the car is going slow, and to a stop, the car slows down by itself. Kevin pulled the mater off and found that the master's shaft was too long for the unit and cannot be machined down as it's part of the unit, so I have to either ditch the hydroboost or get another master to work with it. I'm thinking about ditching the hydroboost as it's just a problematic POS. Also I may have to order new wheels as the boyds came bent from the factory. The rears are not round and not true. So far, it is still driving me nuts.

dont order boyds there quaity control sucks. I have a nice set of 18 and 20 in DP Engineering wheels I need to sell but thats probably bigger than you want