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:thumbsup: wrench on my brother, wrench on! :yes:
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So Steven... whats the latest with your car?
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I am sorry to report no real updates on the car lately. I knew RTTC was the last time I would drive Trackday for a while, as this spring/summer is full of other commitments: wedding, honeymoon, her going back to school. All good things of course, but the car will be on the back burner until we figure out the new budget. Driving the various events at RTTC helped me pinpoint the shortcomings of my current setup. My next few part purchases should make my car handle better. :cheers: |
you should go LS, so much more tunning abilities than carbs. I ended up doing a full 360 on my build and said F the carbs.
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So far, this is my favorite build on the site. I love the DIY shade tree aspect. That car is going to mean so much more to you than some of these high dollar, boutique shop built cars mean to thier owners.
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Hey Brad, thank you very much! I really appreciate it. Shade tree is how I roll, and with only about 8 hours a month to work on my car, most of my effort just goes into making it reliable, let alone making it pretty.
I have some top secret plans in store come the new year in time for Run To The Coast, stay tuned! Steven |
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You gonna be needing a test n tune day for RTTC? Say.... Jan 23? |
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I'll figure it out asap if I can do the Jan date. I may just spectate depending... ;) |
Good Luck!!! :)
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Ok keep up posted on Jan. We'd love to see you there. |
Hey Steven, found this recently and they are in your neck of the woods..........
Autopower Bolt In Roll Cage - Chevrolet Camaro - 83450 Our Products: Car Safety > Autopower Roll Bars & Roll Cages List Price: $1,099.95 Price: $888.95 DefaultReward=0;SKU: 83450 Weight: 100 lbs 0 ozs Brand: Autopower - Ships Freight Collect http://www.lpiracing.com/store/pc/catalog/terms.jpghttp://www.lpiracing.com/catalog/bol...29_general.jpg Autopower Bolt In Roll Cage - Chevrolet Camaro - 83450 hs.align = 'center'; hs.transitions = ['expand', 'crossfade']; hs.outlineType = 'rounded-white'; hs.fadeInOut = true; hs.dimmingOpacity = 0.3; //hs.numberPosition = 'caption'; function pcf_initEnhancement(ele,img) { if (document.getElementById('1')==null) { hs.expand(ele, { src: img, minWidth: 250, minHeight: 250 }); } else { document.getElementById('1').onclick(); } } Fits Model Year(s) 67 - 69 More details... Sunroof: Select One No Yes Inventory Status Save and choose another http://www.lpiracing.com/images/samp...button_add.gif Autopower Bolt In Roll Cage - Chevrolet Camaro - 83450 Our Products: Car Safety > Autopower Roll Bars & Roll Cages List Price: $1,099.95 Price: $888.95 DefaultReward=0;SKU: 83450 Weight: 100 lbs 0 ozs Brand: Autopower - Ships Freight Collect http://www.lpiracing.com/store/pc/catalog/terms.jpghttp://www.lpiracing.com/catalog/bol...29_general.jpg Autopower Bolt In Roll Cage - Chevrolet Camaro - 83450 hs.align = 'center'; hs.transitions = ['expand', 'crossfade']; hs.outlineType = 'rounded-white'; hs.fadeInOut = true; hs.dimmingOpacity = 0.3; //hs.numberPosition = 'caption'; function pcf_initEnhancement(ele,img) { if (document.getElementById('1')==null) { hs.expand(ele, { src: img, minWidth: 250, minHeight: 250 }); } else { document.getElementById('1').onclick(); } } Fits Model Year(s) 67 - 69 More details... Sunroof: Select One No Yes Inventory Status Save and choose another http://www.lpiracing.com/images/samp...button_add.gif |
Gaetano thanks! Those pictures help a lot and that is a pretty darn good deal price wise. I will mull it over until tax refund time....
BTW, you know you're only some carpet and a dash pad from being a pro touring car right? :) |
It ain't protouring until it has a sub box. :lol:
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Hey hey thanks everybody. Now that I've had the time to digest everything from RTTC, there are some interesting things to report
Results Road Course 1:47.5 Speed Stop/Slalom 25.035 Auto X 44.574 I am definitely happy with my results, all things considered. It's pretty weird that my road course time is a lot better than my autox/speed stop times; I cannot really isolate why this happened, other than that I felt comfortable with the car on the road course and felt like we were fighting on the other events. Knockback & Knockback Springs: I don't know of many people that have used these and written a review, so I decided to be the guinea pig and put some information out there. Each spring is 5.5lbs fully compressed, and I decided to install two of them behind the piston of my rear calipers. Theoretically, the springs push the piston, keeping the pads in slight contact with the rotor at all times. However, as soon as I popped the piston out of the caliper I knew that in practice these weren't going to do a darn thing. The theory is nice, but the o-ring in the caliper causes way too much drag with the piston to make it effective. The piston doesn't move with 11lbs of force, nor would I suspect it would with 20 or 30lbs. So, they proved to be pointless at installation, and even moreso on the track. My knockback has been degrading for a while now, as I am pumping the pedal constantly during autox, and 2-3 times before each road course corner just to get some bite. Pretty distracting. Solution? I really need to tear down the rear end and probably replace some key components, whether its the axle bearings or the housing itself...it's something I shouldn't be battling with. R-Comp Tires I wanted to try a different set of tires for this event. Figuring that the car was running on 300tw last year, I decided on 100tw R888's...at least I would be averaging 200. Being on a budget and out there more for experimenting, I scored some 255/40/17 fronts and 275/40/17 rears with $70 total invested into the set. Needless to say, they were pretty well used up to begin with. It was a great lesson in handling vs. grip. Handling The car handled so much better. R888's have really stiff sidewalls compared to my Goodyears, so it ratcheted the steering feel and overall spring rates up by a HUGE margin. The car felt so much more alive. And going from 245GY to 255Toyo was actually over an inch of width to the pavement so the car felt more balanced. From the video, you can see that coming out of the turns the car was pretty neutral. Grip Grip was a different story, and a great lesson in heat cycled tires. Outright, I don't think the grip level was that much greater than my Goodyears. I was still breaking traction in a straight line up to the same speeds as before, so that was a big indicator that I was about the same in grip. However, the Toyos seemed to like heat a lot more...they got progressively stickier lap after lap, whereas the Goodyears would quickly get slick. If I had to do it all over again for $70, I'd still choose the used Toyo's over the Goodyears. Next time I have $1000 for a set of tires, I will buy a new set, something that gets me on the official results list. Reliability It seemed to be a war of attrition out there this weekend, a reminder that what we are doing is hard on our cars. I am very happy to report that my car just kept going all weekend. Vitals were good thankfully. Good oil pan, oil cooler, accumulator, and 10W40 Redline is all it takes to make an engine happy! The TKO has a bit of a problem shifting at high rpm, but I just learned to be patient and wait for it to double-click before letting the clutch out. People It was the people that made this event so great. I met and hung out with a lot of gearheads with great cars and great personalities. Big shout out to guys of the Road Touring Customs, they're a really cool crew...you heard it here first, they are a force to be reckoned with in the near future. John, Aaron, Erich, Todd, Dave, Carl it was good hanging with you guys for however short it was. Here's a video from Friday's road course, putting down the power the best I could. I think I run about a 1:51, the 1:47.5 came Saturday. http://youtu.be/4qwcqPWndDo Until next time! |
That speed stop time can't be right. You weren't that far behind me when we raced. Maybe a second or two. I'd say more like high 22's or low 23's. If you have a video, use a stop watch. Your road course time is super solid! Congrats... R888's do heat cycle out and they aren't great cold. I don't think they are a very good autocross tire contrary to popular belief. They like heat, get a new set and wait until about 10 minutes into a road course session. :thumbsup: Anyway, you and Jon Rasmussen are in my top two of doing the most with the least. Look forward to seeing you in Buttonwillow this year.
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Definitely a solid time on the road course brother... and glad your car held together great. Was it the rear main leaking that we talked about? You gonna rip into that at all or leave it for now?
Yeah dude, was hoping to hang more but sh!t gets kinda hectic down there especially when in different groups. Nice report -- sounds like you are liking the R comps now... at least maybe ones with tread left. :D |
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I wore the R888's completely bald front/rear...they look like slicks now. I will probably go with NT05's next. Kip with the 335i was making me feel especially slow, killing most everybody. Ended up with 21.1 best time. Jon and I are playing Forza these days, honing our skills to prepare for the primer vs. painted carpocalypse. Quote:
Well I thought I was going to park the car, but my road course time has me all pumped up again, haha. In my many thoughts, I will probably just fix the knockback for good, change the oil, and keep on driving! |
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Yeah these old Gen1's sure do have the propensity to leak more than the LS.. but we still love em. :D Keep on driving - I like it! :thumbsup: |
We have a saying............. "It ain't fast unless she leaks a little"
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I called my engine builder and they say "you probably just filled it 1qt too high" :rolleyes: Doing research on which rear-end to buy... something semi-floater, aka pressed-on tapered roller axle bearing. The more I think about it, C-clips are pretty sketchy, particularly on a road course. |
I'd conveniently lose that engine builders number. He's clearly not the brighest bulb. You may not be evacuating quite enough crankcase pressure causing your rear main seal to tinkle.
A tapered bearing will not prevent knock back. :unibrow: |
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Noted on all counts! I am done with them for sure. I have a driver side breather and passenger side PCV...maybe I'll add another breather or change the PCV. That would be an easy fix thanks. I hear you on the knock back; I have C5 floating calipers so that's half the battle...I am digging up all the threads including your videos of you playing with your rear end. I will post a measurement video too...the end play is ridiculous. It's going to get fixed before I drive the car again. I'm thinking Moser 12 bolt with ford ends :unibrow: and stepping down from 3.73 to 3.42 will get me another 10mph in 3rd which I will appreciate on the lower speed tracks. |
One breather isn't enough for road racing. That PCV is useless under low vacuum conditions. If you want to retain a functional PCV on the street, you will need to put both breathers on the opposite side. Otherwise, it will not evacuate your crankcase. You want it to pull fresh air across the engine not through the same valve cover.
With a tapered bearing and floating caliper, you will be fine. Good luck finding that video. ha ha |
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And no their last name is not Pettis. :lol: |
You can lead a horse to water......
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It's been too long since an update... spill it. :D
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1) Knockback I measured 0.032" end play in each of my axles. It feels like a lot of movement, and it looks like a lot of movement, so I have been convinced that the end play is the source of my horrid necessity to pump the pedal 2-3x before every turn (autocrossing in this car laughable). Randy's Ring & Pinion basically laughed me off the phone when I asked them if 0.032" is the problem...but oh well, trial and error. Anyways, you all know the deal about how annoying knockback is, so my goal is to solve the problem and I don't mind if it's by process of elimination. Starting simple, I did knockback springs...those didn't work worth a damn so on to the next easiest thing, thicker c-clips. I spent a LOT of time trying to track down thicker c-clips. Finally found a pair through TCE that they custom make in 0.175" width. This leaves me with a more acceptable 0.007" end play. I hope this fixes it, or it's back to the drawing board. I will get them in and post back...may not be for a while though because... 2) I Found a Chunk of Metal In Oil Why is it everyone is having motor problems right now? It's a piece of steel, about the size of a grain of rice, and looks like casting. My best guess is that it is a piece of cam lobe that was fractured off. Last year at Buttonwillow when I found the broken rocker stud, I am figuring that the loose lash which cause the stud to break, was also hammering the solid roller lifter hard on the cam. Looks like I'm pulling the engine. Puts me in serious jeopardy for track time @ Buttonwillow 2012 but we'll see... either way I'll be down there! :captain: |
It could be a valve spring tip as well and that's not a problem.
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Well, you can take it apart now, but there's no guarantee you'll be ready for Buttonwillow, or you can take it to Buttonwillow, where it might take itself apart for you. Decisions, decisions :unibrow:
I'm curious if the thicker C-clips work. I heard that DSE tested all of their bearings on their test cars to make sure there was no more than .007" end play. Matt |
I hope your c-clip solution works for you, because then that makes all these guys with their expensive full floaters and floating calipers look like they overpaid. :D
Yeah these motors are barkin back at a lot of us here lately.... hope it's minor for ya but if not, it's a great opportunity for added power. :unibrow: Maybe half of us committed for BW in Sept will be there without a car. :lol: |
You guys better be there. I don't care if you need to get a rental car. Hell, maybe we should all just rent v6 Camaros or Mustangs. We could have our own spec racing series. Time to find out if Gaetano is as good as he claims!
Matt |
That's actually a good idea.
Maybe my Police Interceptor would be fun to track. :_paranoid |
Assuming I don't catch the same bug many of you have recently I'm planning to head to ButtonWillow from Sac in Sept and have lots of room in the truck for passengers. Should charge a fair for the trip??
Once down there you can rent some cars but don't forget the insurance...... Hertz typically has a yellow and black Vette you can rent that should be lots of fun. Reminds me of the scene from Days of Thunder on the beach. Maybe I should also hold off on my registration and payment for the event. I know if Dave keeps upgrading he will want to sell his entry Steve |
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