connecting the wheel color into the trim is awesome. The little details make all the difference man.

The custom paint on the trim molding sounds killer. Any pics of the molding installed on the car ? Great build !!!

Paul

Thanks guys. I only finished the black thin stripe on the ones in the pic last night. I hope to have the mouldings finished and back on the car this weekend. Its a rare weekend where I will be both off work and the family will be out of town so me and the Cutlass have a weekend long date.:yes:

Nice Touch!
 

This is hot-rodding @ it's best 'cause you don't get stuff like this out of a catalog. Clever use of bringing what's already available up to date while adding to that 'detailed' element of the build.

Thanks Scott. I hope someday it will see the road again and you can check it out for yourself.:yes:

Nice! doublel nice that the kids get involved. Building not just cars but future Hot rodders!

bill

cool stuff ...keep the pics coming...this is what its all about being creative and detailing ....not just blowing coin....:thumbsup:


tom

Olds! :thumbsup: :thumbsup:

Thanks:yes:

Finished the moulding today. Letting them dry overnight and they are ready to put on.

Who whould have ever thought all those years as a kid building models would be a talent I could still use 25 years later. LOL

I got a quote from a pin-stiper the other day and it was a good bit more than I wanted to spend so I stopped at Hobby Lobby on the way home. I experimented with several techniques but what worked best was mask off the area with fine line tape. I then practicly pored the paint in. I redipped the brush dripping wet every1/2 inch or so. Keeping it this thick really let it self level smooth. My best results were to take the tape off as soon as I was done putting the paint on. Little bit of clean up here and there with thinner and they turned out great. This was a really tedious process but worth it IMO

This is one of those ideas that popped in my head and I really like the results of the finished mouldings. This mod is a close second to my calipers which is still my favorite mod. In the first pic you can see the original silver on the clip next to the new gray to compare them.

http://img114.imageshack.us/img114/2461/stuff032.jpg

http://img114.imageshack.us/img114/4750/stuff033.jpg

http://img114.imageshack.us/img114/7616/stuff037.jpg

A lot of times it is the subtle little things that really make the difference. I love the new look on your moldings!

Shiny Side Up!
Bill

Thanks Bill....




Well since I had the paint out I decided to give the emblems a tune up. See the before and after.

So here are the mouldings on the car. Something must be wrong with my camera because the pics suck. Its as best I can do for now. I love it!!
Just need the back down about 4" and it will be perfect.

http://img147.imageshack.us/img147/3159/stuff039.jpg

http://img147.imageshack.us/img147/9404/stuff041.jpg

http://img147.imageshack.us/img147/935/stuff043.jpg

http://img147.imageshack.us/img147/6302/stuff044.jpg

Well I have made a new goal and this one I intend to make. I can't go any deeper without painting it so I should not be doing anything else that will slow me down. Hot Rod Power Tour is just too far away this year so the plan is to take it to Goodguys Nationals in Columbus OH mid July.

Got the rear of the car trimmed out today. Also got the front brakes on the car.

I came up with a pretty nice solution for the Ebrake. I originally bought the Lokar universal rear kit and the connector cable for the front designed for thier after market pedal. I wanted to use the original pedal so I figured I would make it work some how. Well the hole in the floor is almost as big as the connector cable end piece. I would have needed to weld up the floor and drill a new hole. Well I thought about the rear cable sleeve and tried it. It worked perfect. I called Lockar and they gave me a part# to order just a rear cable sleeve. Installed with a little strip caulk and its like it came this way. Still have to figure how to mount the cables under the car. I should have that done my next day off.

Finally installed the bumper I paid 50.00 extra for a rush jod to be ready by last May. LOL
http://img211.imageshack.us/img211/5268/stuff048.jpg

The calipers will look sweet rolling down the highway.
http://img211.imageshack.us/img211/2409/stuff051i.jpg

here you can see the difference in the cable end. The bolt style intended for the rear worked perfect.
http://img211.imageshack.us/img211/7742/stuff052.jpg

installed in the firewall factory hole.
http://img17.imageshack.us/img17/4821/stuff054.jpg

Finshed up setting up the custom E-brake system with the factory pedal. Works perfect. Ended up making a braket to drop down the front cable bracket so it pulls dead straight on the rear cable brakets. I took lots of consideration and where to run the rear cables so they will move as needed but not get in the way of anything moving in the suspension. I used stainless clamps picked up at a local street rod shop to attach them to the frame. I'm pleased with the looks and function.

The next task was to center the rear with the upper control arms and finally check tire and wheel clearance at full suspention travel and at ride height. Well my home made measuring tool worked like a charm. Wheel wells are as full as they can be and I didn't cut a thing. I may need some very slight clearancing with a hammer on one of the inner wheel wells but I will have to drive it to see first. Of course I had to snap a shot of the future ride stance.

http://img14.imageshack.us/img14/3500/stuff060o.jpg

http://img14.imageshack.us/img14/7751/stuff061.jpg

http://img14.imageshack.us/img14/424/stuff062.jpg

Well todays update should really be called a back date because I made major negative progress.

I made my last brake lines that go from the master to the prop. valve on the frame. Also made a small bracket that bolts to the pedal bracket stud on the firewall to keep the lines from getting in to the steering colum or clutch linkage. All is well so far. Things went down hill from there.

http://img10.imageshack.us/img10/6273/stuff068.jpg

This the first time I have ever used stainless line. I had heard its a little harder to to get to seal but I had no idea how bad it was going to be. I started to bleed the brake lines and saw some fluid dripping on the floor from the prop. valve. I then start looking close at all the connections and more than 1/2 of them are leaking to one extent or another. :( I manage to to get most of them sealed up by tightening and loosening several times but some the the lines on the prop valve I could not get to without removing the starter which it the big PITA with the lakewood scatter shield. To remove the starter I had to disconnect the clutch linkage too.

I got the last of the lines sealed up and a nice hard pedal so it was time to put it all back together. When I got to the clutch linkage I noticed the fork was kind of flopping around like the spring had slid off the ball. No big deal slid it back right? NOT!! I tried for 5 min feeling for it with the fork to slid it on but it never would catch. I finally resorted to a light and a mirror so I could see up in there and could believe my eyes. There was no spring clip. Brand new fork and the spring had broken off at the rivet :mad: Now the motor has to come out again which is not a huge deal in itself but I have to wait for another fork to be shipped to me.

At this point I needed to just get away so I took the wife and daughter to the park for a couple hours. We got back and I wanted to get a little more done before it got dark. I was bolting down one of the front seats and I over did it on one of the studs. POP!!! Its broke now the carpet has to come out on the drivers side so I can weld a new stud. Its just wasn't my day.

There are copper "gaskets" that you can use to seal up the lines. I've never used them, but I hear that they work well.

As for all the difficulties, been there! I once installed a new oil pump on my old Chevy 409, a job that necessitated pulling the engine. As I was tightening the alternator belt, I spotted the oil pump drive shaft sitting on the bench... Wasn't a good day.

Shiny Side Up!
Bill

Thats what i will use on my next one.
Doing a search I came across Jeff Lilly Restoration web site. It shows to use the copper washers on stainless lines and they seal right up.

from his site

33. These tiny copper gaskets go in between the fittings and flare for that extra margin of sealing. When doing stainless lines this is where they shine as you do not have to tweak the line wrench so hard to get a proper seal.

http://www.jefflilly.com/Fabrication...e-lines/33.JPG

keep us posted I want to see more build pics good job.:thumbsup:

Got a day off today and I am exteemly pissed right now. I never was happy with the factory exhaust manifolds. They looked OK from a distance but had some deep pits that bothered me. I pulled the trigger and bought a new set from Parts Place. These are sold as performance manifolds for duals made like the ones X/W for the factory big block. I know these are pretty new to the market but I must be the first person to ever get a set. There sure didn't spend much time R/D.

I put the LH one on first and it seems to fit fine. I then went to the RH side and it started snugging up and I was still seeing daylight under the gasket. At first I though it was warped but after getting under the car I saw the problem. The manifold was completely up against the top bolt of the oil filter adapter. I pulled it back off and removed the bolt to see how much clearance I needed. With the bolt removed it would seal up but the manifold was still touching the oil filter adapter.

At this point I should have just boxed them up and send them back but I really don't have time for delays right now so I decided to just make it work. I cut down the housing a little and used a counter sink bit and cut a recess in the housing and used a countersink bolt. I still had to grind on the manifold and good bit to gain some minimal clearance.

Here you can see no bolt installed and it still hits
http://img152.imageshack.us/img152/7494/stuff082.jpg

A little bit of home brewed machine work on the adapter
http://img152.imageshack.us/img152/7980/stuff084.jpg

Oh the fun of grinding on new parts
http://img152.imageshack.us/img152/9480/stuff085.jpg

Now we have a little clearance. Not optimal but it will work.
http://img152.imageshack.us/img152/8526/stuff086.jpg

I thought the problems were behind me getting the RH side ironed out but I was very wrong. Tonight I went to put the starter back on and only the inside bolt would go in. The starter still needs to rotate out and good bit to install the bolt. Well after looking up to see the problem I about went throug the roof. You guessed it. The LH side was crammed up agaist the starter. The is no amout of grinding or clearancing that will let it work with my original starter.

See how the starter still needs to rotate out at least another 1/4" or so.
http://img152.imageshack.us/img152/6233/stuff090.jpg

Not gonna happen with this exhaust in place.
http://img152.imageshack.us/img152/6550/stuff092.jpg

Don't get me wrong I don't mind making things work its all about building a hot rod but these are designed and casted completly wrong. When I saw the LH side I was about sick at my stomach and just had to come inside before I started throwing things.


Finshing up with a few pics of progress. Engine is about finished up the core support and new mid 80's Suburban radiator that drops right in to the original saddles with no modification at all.
http://img152.imageshack.us/img152/5255/stuff088.jpg

http://img152.imageshack.us/img152/6433/stuff089g.jpg

Sorry to hear about your problems with the manifolds. If it's any consolation, the car is looking great!

Shiny Side Up!
Bill

Sorry to hear of your probs. with those manifolds. That sucks when you end up having to re-engineer something that should be a bolt-in. Are you going to end up using a newer style high-torque starter or could you machine up a manifold spacer to fit between the manifold and the head to give some more clearance? On another note, the car looks fantastic as it's coming together. With the trim and the rear bumper and lights installed, that is one sharp Oldsmo-touring ride............:thumbsup:

Paul

Thanks Paul, I discovered today that I got big block malifolds even though my order confirmation and my packing slip show for small block. At this point I'm just going to put my originals back on and try to deal with Parts Place.

Forward progress today. Starting to look carish again.

Make sure to stand back 10 ft and you can admire my high dollar custom paint. ;)

http://img410.imageshack.us/img410/7215/stuff104.jpg

http://img410.imageshack.us/img410/9858/stuff105.jpg

http://img410.imageshack.us/img410/5526/stuff108.jpg

http://img410.imageshack.us/img410/3480/stuff106.jpg

http://img410.imageshack.us/img410/1531/stuff107.jpg

lookin' good! You'll be ready to drive up and help me on mine in no time!! :rofl:


Shiny Side Up!
Bill

You care if I rest a week or so before I head up :lol:


Mothers day put a damper on things today but I did manage to get the hood sanded buffed and on the car. I knew it was bound to happen since the factory paint is so thin. I buffed the paint thin enough to see primer in a couple small spots.

If you can find someone who can mix acrylic lacquer, you can get them to match the hood and re-shoot it. Just scuff the hood down with 400 and shoot 3 or so coats on it, then sand and buff it again.

Shiny Side Up!
Bill

No way I am opening that pandora's box. If I painted the hood I would have to fix the little bit of rust at the bottom of the fenders. If I painted the fenders I would have to fix the rock chips in the doors. If I painted the doors............. Well you know the rest:lol:

I little more assembly tonight. I got the grill on and noticed it had the same silver paint from the side mlds. I was faded and kinda nasty so I pulled it back off and spent a few hours painting it the dark gray I've been using.

http://img30.imageshack.us/img30/8752/stuff109.jpg

http://img30.imageshack.us/img30/3461/stuff110.jpg

http://img30.imageshack.us/img30/4609/stuff111.jpg

Hey Its a car again! Looks good, You'll be enjoying it pretty soon.

Yea the parts shelf is almost empty again. :yes: I want to have it ready for a show Sunday but I don't think I am going to make it unless I (cough , cough) don't go to work Saturday. :D

Statistics prove that 'anal-gloucoma' cases increase significanlty over the weekends..... especially during the spring/summer seasons. Just tell 'em that's what the dr. said it was :lol: .

Almost there!
 

You're almost there my friend! Can't wait to see fully assembled pics!!! :thumbsup:

Well I did make it to work but there a few parts under my desk to detail. Been getting a little done at a time this morning waiting on work to come to my desk.

Sorry boss....I have no idea there that masking tape and chrome polish came from.:D

I have been reading the whole thread over the past couple of days. Your car is looking great! I admire your ability to work through the "speedbumps" as they come up. I wish I had your patients. Thos exhaust manifolds would have ended up on my nieghbors roof! ;)
Keep it up, it's sooooo close to done! Nice work and sweet car.:thumbsup:

Thanks won't be near as nice as yours but it will be a decent ride for sure.

I have a half acre so could not throw them that far. :lol:

Thanks for props. Its been a journey for sure but I taught myself a lot. I've owned lots of cars and worked on this or that on all of them but by far have never taken on anything like this. Some of the speed bumps sucked in the middle of the process but looking back they are just part of it. I just had to keep myself focused on what the end result would be and kept moving.

As I have mentioned before this was stage 1 of 3 steps. The motor is next and if still own it after I build my wifes 69 Firebird I will pull it apart again for body and paint.

I hope so...:)

Now I am just teasing myself. LOL Few small details and need to add an exhaust system. After 14 months I can drive it again. I got a universal 2.25" Abody system from Summit. I hope to be able to build it this weekend.

http://img411.imageshack.us/img411/9242/stuff115.jpg

http://img411.imageshack.us/img411/2539/stuff116.jpg

OK for you die hard olds guys you will enjoy this and get a good laugh. For you Chevy guys working on Oldsmobile this may save you from killing yourself. :eek:

Its been 14 months since I took my car apart. Well thurs night I planned on starting it so I could trailer it to work Friday for adjusting all the suspension before I can drive it. Starter was dead but I figured out it was a fuse issue with my neutral saftey system.

So Friday night with the starter working I try to prime the carb but all I cab get it to do it blubber. I add a little gas over and over till finally the pump is primed but it just won't start. I move the distributor back and forth a little at a time but it just won't fire. I run the battery down trying and put the charger on it. I try another 15 min and see a small fire reflection from the raw gas in the open exhaust manifold so I just call it a night.

So today I start about 1:00 and add a temporary exhaust a few feet behind the motor so I don't have any more potential fires. I check the timing I check for spark I check the compression incase some how sitting the rings stuck. I try a differnet coil and different distributor incase the Pertronix is bad or installed wrong. I literly try everything I can think of well into tonight. So I am putting the Pertronix distributor back in and I bump the starter and watch the rotor turn counter clockwise. I thing I am seeing things and the bump it again and watch it turn counter clockwise for sure. I literly screamed out loud. So I set the timing and correct the wires in the right order and it fires in less than 1/2 a revolution and sits there and purrs at idle. I can't believe how much of a headache its been for such a simple fix. :faint: :lol:

wow
 

just amazing, I've been following this build from a while ago, and I love it, you're almost finished there, great car, and you're foing an amazing job with it...

Thanks its getting real close now.




Well I got it aligned this morning. It took a little while. I had never used and aligment machine and the tech helping me is used to Lexus vehicles not old hod rods with custom suspension. Once I figured out what made what change it went pretty smooth but it was a leaning curve for both of us.


I did find a small problem. I drove it next door to our body shop because several guys have been waiting to see it. Well sitting there only 15 minutes the LH front tire was almost flat. It turns out the valve stems hit the calipers up front and damaged one of them causing it to leak.

Best to have found it now rather than finding it at 70mph!

Shiny Side Up!
Bill

yep - been there done that. Actually on a couple projects

Summit Racing sell to low profile stems

These are about 3/4" tall
Summit SUM-G1957

These are about as flush as you can get. I have them on my truck and I ordered a set for a Friends High End Nova. ( No leaks )

Summit SUM-G1958

ps - these are actually made by weld Racing