Thanks, The knob controls the fan speed(low/med/high) on the heater blower and when you pull it straight out its got a cable connected to it to open a door on the heater unit for heat to blow into the cabin. I did it for defrost just in case, you know those long nights foggin up the windows with your women(I wish) :rofl:

Great idea. Nice thinking man!:thumbsup:

Don't feel bad Rich, someone has to dream it (foggin up the windows ) before it can be reality. lol

The gauge cluster really motivated me. Wired all the guages and bolted it in the car. I cant believe how nice the DSE dash fit, and how structural it feels once bolted up to the dash frame. I think I have over 75 hours invested in wiring, my OCD kicked in while in the dash harness soldering all connections even crimp connectors that go in a connector housing and using two to three pieces of shrink tubing on every joint :willy: . I guess you cant be to safe, I have this rubber strip edgeing that I applied to all sheet metal edges that wires were resting on(I need a wiring detox program). I think I see the light at the end of the tunnel, just have to install the front light harness and maybe the engine will go in next. The engine compartment harness hopefully will be mostly plug in and dress.
http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u...Picture318.jpg
The old girl in the background
http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u...Picture316.jpg
Im surprised that know one has made a billet bezel to replace the grab bar plate on the dash. Maybe something black anodized.
Rich

Well that was subtle Rich!


:rofl: :rofl:

Car is coming along nicely!

Thanks Greg,
When I had MCC do the sheet metal I should have had Mike weld up all the holes in the dash, its a much cleaner look. Behind that plate it looks like swiss cheese.
Hey if anyone knows of a company making a single DIN reciever with GPS built in pass the info my way Thanks Rich

Rich ---

DUDE! LOL

That was such an easy challenge!

Here's your single DIN Nav

http://www.bestcovery.com/best-singl...igation-system

Thank you again! Im just not sure if those flip out screens will clear the step in the guage cluster. The reciever is recessed almost 2 inches, I will have to check it out. Appreciate the help- Rich

Looks really good Rich!! :thumbsup:

Looking awesome Rich. Keep at it brother!:thumbsup:

It looks great Rich, your kicking some butt now. Thats a big chunk of the tedious work done. Keep us updated.

Im pretty pumped up tonight, got the engine off the floor and in the car. It really went smooth. Im shocked how much room there is up front, it almost looks like the engine is set back an inch or so, but theres plenty of room in the back as well. Can't wait to get the gear box back from Liberty, I sent it over there about 5 weeks ago, they should be shipping it back to me this week. Ive talked with Paul and Brad a few times. I figured since the TKO 600 is going behind a motor that can turn 6500+ it better shift nice. I have one already in my 67 and its a bit notchy and not so smooth. It will be interesting to compare the two once I get the new car on the road. Its nuts how nice that engine fits in there. Cant wait to get the pipes and RD radiator in.
http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u...Picture320.jpg

http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u...Picture325.jpg

http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u...cture330-1.jpg

http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u...Picture331.jpg
Rich

Rich that looks sweet in there, you must be pumped. Who's headers and mounts are you using? So are these going to be his and hers Camaro's??? lol Keep up the good wrok and the pictures.

She's looking sweet.:thumbsup:

Thanks guys- The headers and mounts are all DSE. Its to bad I didn't get the car back 3 months earlier, I may have had it done. Oh well, we can feel the fall/winter knockiing on the door here in Jersey.
Rich

Rich...... Keep the pictures coming... Looking good !!!!

Awesome build! Everything looks top notch. Keep up the good work :thumbsup:

Regards,
Ryan

I saw the '67 at Wyckoff last week.......didn't see you, but I was wondering the progress on this one. Looks great! :hail:

Very nice. Looking good. That paint looks sick. That engine looks right at home in that bay!:thumbsup: :cheers:

Got things moving this past week, Sent the trans out to liberty gear 6 weeks ago and finally got it back. They did everything you could possibly do to make this thing shift nice and handle the power and still have full syncros, great people to work with. Once I got the trans installed I started looking at my drive angles, was not happy with 4.1 degrees down. Big thanks to Todd and Greg for helping me understand the geometry. Ended up having to cut the top of the tunnel to lift the tail housing , lots of surgery/welding to get her back together. I believe once this car starts pulling at high rpm it should run out smooth. Also got the alluminum driveshaft from inland empire, those guys are fast, they made the thing in one day and shipped it across the country in 4 days. Installed the dse pipes, I think that was the first time in 35 years of working on cars that I didnt have to lay the pipes in the engine bay then install the engine. They would have fit from the top or the bottom, fantastic not having that big old steering box on the frame rail to get in the way.
http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u...Picture338.jpg

http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u...Picture353.jpg
Milled some slots into a thick piece of 304 stainless sitting under the trans mount, tools were crying cutting that stuff. And still added another plate above that.

http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u...Picture351.jpg

http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u...Picture354.jpg
Fabbed up an alluminum plate bolted to the tunnel, tapped around the shifter for the lokar boot bezel. You can see the tunnel is lifted 1 inch tapering up to about 2.5 inches up towards the firewall. Any higher and the bell is comming through.

http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u...Picture342.jpg

Coming along nicely! :thumbsup:

Rich, let me know how that Liberty modified trans works for you. I want to eventually send mine out as well. Car is looking awesome man!

Very nice, looks awesome.

Thanks, Will do, I thought you might be interested in the trans. As a matter of fact I have one in my blue 67 as well, if this new one works out well the 67 is coming a part and there gonna get another one from me, Id really like to rip the leafs out of that car and do a g-link also.

Ill let you know how it work out.- Rich

Rich; Glad to hear you got it figured out. Atleast all the cutting was up in the tunnel. I know how it must have been tuff to decide to do it. I'm afraid I will have to do the same with my 6 spd. The kit says no cutting but I don't think they mean lowered cars.
Mike had asked if I needed it done and I didn't think I would. I wish I would have had him do it for me.

Very nice Rich. That is looking great. Keep us posted. Nice looking car.:thumbsup: :cheers:

Rich..... I don't know how I missed this... Almost there WOW!!!:faint:

Mario, Whats crazy is there is still so much that needs to get done. I wish I could send the car to Bentfab to do all the plumbing, I look at his work and its like art. Then I look at mine and pitch it out in the street. Im just starting to figure out the fuel lines and dry sump hoses. Still a ton to do but I have a whole winter of work a head of me. Been putting in a lot of hours. How come we dont have theses cool specialty shops here on the east like they do on the west.

Rich

..... Move West young man!


--Eric

Don't go Rich ! We need hot cars like this on this coast too. lol

Rich I here ya!! If it helps you I would be happy to send you my hydraulic flaring set for the steel lines. Its a great tool... Let me know I'll ship it right out to ya!!

Thanks Mario really appreciate the offer. Ill let you know if i need it, I should be ok its a talent issue Im struggling with. I used brown and miller racing solution to build the hoses for my 67, they use a PTFE liner the quality is killer so I think Im going to give them a holler on monday. Im trying to come up with accurate dimensions and a way to template the lines .

Thanks again Rich

I'm FFFFAAAARRR from this point but I'm dreading it already.So every once and awhile I pick up the bender and do a little practice bending. And my results are always the same ''I SUCK'':D .... Remember its here if you need it just let me know....

If it helps you guys - here's something about bending HARD lines that you might want to use...

Take your various size lines -- mark a start line - and bend a 90 and do the same for a 45 etc. Use these as templates transferring your bend start line to
your work piece.

It also took me awhile to figure out that you can actually measure where your bend is going to be and to set it up in the bender at the correct notch. Not sure what benders you're using - but mine have 0* R 45* marks on the tool as well as the RADIUS dimension that needs to be used (each tool bends a different radius).

Here is a really handy dandy RIGID instruction sheet showing various steps in making bends and how to use these tools. This happens to show their series 500 bender - but they're all generally used in the same manor. Hope it helps.


Page 1

http://i919.photobucket.com/albums/a...structions.jpg


Page 2

http://i919.photobucket.com/albums/a...enderpage2.jpg


Page 3


http://i919.photobucket.com/albums/a...enderpage3.jpg

So the tubing benders I use are the Rigid 400 Series... and they have these various markings on them for where you need to start your bend - and this depends on where you MEASURED from.... whether you measured from the left of the tube or the right - and if you FLIP the tubing 180* then you need to reverse where you set the mark. SO if you measured from the left and you need to flip the bend then you'd set your mark using the R (right) instead.

Personally -- some times I get so turned around that I have to just stop and regroup! :rofl:

This is a photo of what I use. Note the bend radius. This has to be subtracted from your measurement. So lets say you're going to need a tube 9" long that is straight line measurement - but it hits the frame and goes 90* at the 9" point --- then your mark would be make at 8 1/16" because if you then set that mark in the bender - your tube is going to come out at the 9" point -- but this is where you get into the "right" - "left" - or "center".

Maybe Mark will jump in here and try to help me out -- cause it gets real confusing and is even worse trying to write it up here in a post!


http://i919.photobucket.com/albums/a...x/IMG_1026.jpg

Not true -- not true at all.... but I will tell you I struggled until I started to actually dig into all the nuances of bending this stuff because I'd really like to not waste so much time and tube!

Personally I HATE plumbing... too many tricks and too many fittings and I just can't seem to keep them all straight (a pun?).

When I did finally realize that some of it isn't just guessing -- it became A LITTLE -- and I mean a little - easier.

I can show you my scrap barrel is full of oops!

My signature shows that tool line... and 67 mentioned the PTFE lines. I have a special saw set up - for cutting braided lines. It doesn't mash the ends of the PTFE - it doesn't melt them - and it cuts the braided part absolutely square and without fraying. The other thing I found that really helps is the have the aluminum jaws for the vice... set up to clamp and hold the fitting ends. And the other tool for the PTFE is a hand operated tool to set the ferrel. Without this stuff -- you're just in for a fight... So it's the tools that make me "smart" not anything else. My problem is - I can't remember I have the tool! :rofl:

Greg thats going to help alot of us. Thanks!

Moving forward slowly, lifting the tunnel took a bit of wind out, but Im getting back on track. Sometimes you really just have to walk away for a little bit. I mocked up all the fuel lines and dry sump lines and got them back from Brown&Miller racing solutions. This is the second time Ive used these guys, although very expensive the lines are near the best in the industry. They now have every cup team as clients, the PTFE liner is really impervious to the fluids we use, and has an extremely high burst pressure all crimped with every fitting you can imagine available. No smell in the garage/shop every one that has ever owned an earls or russels hose knows what Im talking about. The front brake line was re bent and I got brake fluid in the system after bench bleeding the master. Heres a few pics of the lines B&M made for me
http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u...Picture018.jpg

http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u...Picture023.jpg

Had a bit of a clearance issue with the dry sump fittings being so close to the header tubes, so I got rid of the male theard to male AN12 adapter.

http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u...Picture013.jpg

This is the difference in space between the two fittings.

http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u...Picture026.jpg

Playing with the ride height a bit. Needs some more tweaking.

http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u...Picture003.jpg
Rich

Rich, looking killer man. Keep us posted on that build.:thumbsup: :cheers: