That is the sickest mustang....EVER! You nailed it man...:hail:

It was such a frantic day getting the car ready for tuning and the dyno, that I forgot my camera. It was a couple hours from my house, so all I got was a couple crappy cell phone pics. Ron

Over the winter desided to upgrade a few things. Changed the Tremec to a Tex101a clutchless 4 speed. Also upgraded the bellhousing to a Quicktime blowproof, and used a Tilton hydraulic throwout bearing. To get a stock type LS7 clutch to work with this thing(getting the clearances correct) I was forced to fabricate a .125 block spacer, to fit between the block and the bell. Kind of a pain, but I can't wait to see how it shifts. Ron

http://57hemicuda.smugmug.com/Cars/M...02_a5xEf-L.jpg

http://57hemicuda.smugmug.com/Cars/M...35_76VC4-L.jpg

http://57hemicuda.smugmug.com/Cars/M...67_pTMba-L.jpg

http://57hemicuda.smugmug.com/Cars/M...87_MaJXs-L.jpg

just got to see this, love the color and all the fab work, that other project of your is going to be one sick mofo

I can't believe I never saw this one before. It is one bad mustang thats for sure. Nice work:thumbsup:

Ron -- just saw that you are taking this bad boy to Optima this year. Congrats on the invite and well deserved! :thumbsup:

man that mustang is sick man:hail:

i want to emulate. now to find a junked fastback for 400 bucks.... :thumbsup:

If you find Twins I'll take the other for $500. gotta give you a little extra for your time!

Thanks, I was totally blown away when I got the invite, there was so many REALLY nice cars there at Motorstate. My 3.18 rear gear experiment was a total fail. The car was so unhappy with the rear swap it performed terribly, either I was lugging the engine in 3rd, or blowing the tires off in 2nd.

I've got some work to do before Vegas, but I can't wait. I've been wanting to do SEMA since I was 16, and beleive it or not I've never been to Vegas. It should be a hoot.

Ron- Congrats on the Optima invite!... It was great meeting you @ Motorstate & getting to see your car in person.. See ya @ SEMA!

Incredible..:thumbsup:

Ron, I've been checking in on your car over on PT.com for the last couple years. It definitely inspired me to start hacking up my '65. If you ever look at mine one day and think that they look similar it's because I "borrowed" some ideas.

Congrats on the Optima invite!

Matt

You will have an absolute blast. Congrats and good luck!

Congrats Ron on the invite. The Muttstang is one of my favorite builds on Lat G.
Youve taken that car to extreme levels in style and performance!

Don't know if anyone else that is running a full floating rear is experiencing the same issues I am. It seems the inner axle seals just won't stop leaking. These rears are unique in the fact that you pack the outer wheel bearings with grease, and seal the gear oil in the center section. They don't want the gear oil getting to the wheel bearings and cleaning the grease out of them. I have replaced the grease seals 3 times, and they just let the oil leak into the wheel bearings constantly.

It was so bad that on my AMX rear I machined the inside of the axle tubes to except Dana 44 front inner axle seals. Figured that is what the OEM did and it should work, but that didn't fix my Mustang.

On the Mustang I vented the center section, and each individual axle tube thinking they were building pressure blowing past the seals, didn't help. Glued the aluminum seal housing in place thought maybe it was leaking past the O rings, didn't help.

Several calls, and a bunch of investigation later this is what I found. Due to the cambered axles, Nascar uses these funky seals that have the ability to seal even when there is a fair amount of misalignment. It is a dual seal, in which you pack between the two seals with axle grease, installed them today, they seem really nice, will let you know how it goes.

http://www.sealsit.com/specs/axlehub.pdf

Did you put them deep into the axle tube as shown in the diagram - or leave them out at the end of the housing?

The aluminum seal housing has a shoulder on it, so the seal housing goes in until it hits the shoulder then won't go in anymore. Its pretty idiot proof, even for me.

I love products like that!!


LOL

Thanks for sharing, nice to know before I install mine.

Please do.

Can anyone expand on why it is so bad to hae axle grease in the wheel bearings? It's good enough for the carrier bearings and pinion bearings. Carrier bearings are bigger so they spin faster and the pinion is spinning 3 to 4 times the rpm that the wheel bearings are so what am I missing.

At a guess, impact loads from hitting bumps, cornering loads that are trying to bend the axle shafts, and the car's static weight loading.


Norm

The more I thought about it Donny, the more I think it really isn't a lubrication issue. Once the oil runs down the tube and into the hub its trapped, can't get back up in the tube and back to the center. Nothing lubes like an oil bath, all 3/4 and one ton trucks lube that way, so do tractor trailers. They have way more load then anything we do. Hell the snout that I'm running on this Mustang and the AMX is the exact same snout used on the rear of a late 60's early 70's 3/4 ton dodge truck.

I think the reason they don't want gear oil out at the wheel is more of a seal failure issue, slinging gear oil all over everything, brakes, tires, the track. Could be a bit hairy if you didn't know it was happening. Just my thought.

Just in case you didn't understand Greg, the seals install from the center. You have to remove the third member to get to the seal, that is what makes it such a pain in the butt. At first I thought it was just because the Moser axle wasn't polished at the seal surface area. Had a machine shop put the axle on a crank polisher and make it shiny. Got what the O.D. was supposed to be from Speedway before polishing, to be sure I didn't make them too small.

There is not enough inside diameter on the IMSA snout to fit a seal out at the wheel. The 2.5" Grand national snout does also have a outside seal. I just didn't like how close the wheel bearings are together on the GN style. The extra seal is a definitely an advantage though. Wouldn't stop the center leak but should keep the oil out of the wheel bearings.

Hoping this new style seal fixes the problem. Had the car out yesterday, did a Pro Mod burnout across the Conowingo Dam, car is so fun to drive.

I would agree with that line of thinking.... that it's more of a seal issue... and that the bearing GREASE doesn't liquify at high temps the way the gear lube does.... so keeping it "in check" isn't as much of an issue.


All the hubs on my semi truck and trailer are oil bath.... and I run down the road at 58,000 lbs laden.









I could see that the diagram made it APPEAR that the seal was nearer the carrier.... and that was why I asked -- because it didn't appear to be installed from the hub end... and I thought --- MAN! Ya gotta drop the pumpkin to install that and maybe it just looks that way in the drawing.

A friend of mine on the Monte board saw these displayed at Carlisle this weekend and sent me the link because he was aware of the troubles I've had sealing my 9" up.

I'm trying to figure out how deep\close to the diff you put the cheaper versions on the axle. Looks like a good idea though for sure.

So this seal that goes on the diff end of the axle, is that the high dollar version or the $29.99 version of their seal?

These are the expensive ones, I think they were like $70 a piece.

I have those Ron, plus Cleveland seals at the hub end. So far no leaks :goggles:

How did/are you venting the differential?

Dan

Knowing on a full floater that the center is one sealed off section, and each tube is also its own sealed off section.I welded a bung on the center section, and drilled and tapped each tube. Installed the little brass vent breathers in the tubes. The center section has a hose hooked to it which goes through the trunk floor, loops up into the C pillar, and back down through the same hole in the trunk floor.

Used to have a short vent tube with a breather, it puked oil constantly when the car was really pushed.Car originally had a semi floating Dana 60, it also puked out the breather when leaned on hard, and that vent came off of one of the tubes.

Ideally I think a breather tank with two ports,one high, and one low, and have the center with 2 bungs. One port to breath, the other to drain the oil back down into the housing.Along with the tube vents. That way one should always be open, allowing optimum windage. That is how my AMX is setup.

Still don't truly understand how the oil expands and pushes out those vents, I just know that it does. More or less had the same problem with the venting of the engine, now have multiple tanks breathing and sending the oil back into the dry sump tank. Man I've learned a lot the last couple years doing this crap, unfortunately learned it all the hard way. Don't know that these are the best fixes available, just know they worked for me.

I don't understand a lot about anything! I've already ordered the less expensive inner axle seals that you posted and now I'm looking at better breathers.
Thanks for the input.

It's all fun!
Dan

With all the working on the other car this poor car has been abandoned. Baer sent me a new brake set up before I went to Optima, I never had a chance to adjust anything before it left for Vegas. Car slid all over the track, front tires locked up at every turn. Adjusted the rear bias as much as possible, but still not a lot of rear brake.

While getting ready for Motorstate I decided to check the front to rear brake pressures. The first check, pushing as hard as I could, showed 2100psi front/ 400psi rear. Don't know what they are supposed to be, but I know that's not right.

Decided to ditch the tandem master cylinder with the rear bias adjuster, in favor of a dual master set up. Drilling the holes in the firewall was a real pain, but I did get it done. Made an aluminum cover for that mess, powder coated it, and will assemble it tomorrow.

The original set up definitely never worked considering I've cracked 3 front rotors, and the rears look pristine. This definitely a case of too many irons in the fire, this should have been checked/corrected years ago, just had too much going on. Building the car is easy, sorting it is the hard part.

http://57hemicuda.smugmug.com/Other/...DSC01144-L.jpg

Sutton was doing my bias adjusting via infrared temp gun -- might be something to discuss with him. Like you - I have no idea what the pressures should be... but I'd think 2100 front should be seeing 800ish in the rears.

It certainly looked and sounded the part at Motorstate last year. Check out Chris getting ready for yet another LS in a Dodge??? question LOL

Ron, you should have Mr Sutton work up one of these charts for you:

http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/f...ps21e4b48c.jpg

Its funny Dave, I always was of the mind set that the rear had a fair amount less pressure then the front. If you think about it, if you run 3/4" masters front and rear, no matter what, the pressures should be the same front to back if the bias adjuster is in the middle. Clamping force may be different due to piston size, etc., but pressures should be the same.

If you look at Ron's chart, pressures are the same front to rear. I think getting it sized close then doing the temp check is really the best way.

No matter what it should be, my 2100F/400R is wrong. The rear bias adjuster is full open, my 7/8" master should have been in the ball park.
It was probably just bad from the start, and I just didn't know enough as a driver to feel it was wrong. Hell I got used to it, and took top 5 or 6 at quite a few events. Finch drove the car, spun it a couple times, and couldn't get close to my times, finally threw me the keys and said that thing is undrivable. I just laughed, probably should have thrown a big red flag, but the event was over, and it was beer drinking time.

Hoping this is a good change, and I don't turn it into a spin out machine. I'm pretty used to the car the way it is, and fear it'll be a handful. We'll find out on the 22nd, can't wait!!!

For what it's worth -- my Mustang had TOO MUCH rear brake -- and coming down the straight and getting into the brakes at speed started the rear hopping and skipping -- which then made it loose and nasty.

Ron (Sutton) started dialing out bias and it got SO MUCH BETTER... but we still had too much rear brake -- so now we've mixed up the compounds to see how that's going to work.

I hope it doesn't send me into the wall at 3.... LOL

That is what I mean Greg, you get used to wrong, so when you make it right, that seems wrong. I still have a bunch of crap to do on this car before Michigan, so it will be a thrash to get it done. I seriously can't wait to try it out.

Anxious to see what you do in that thing once it's drivable Ron. Keep at it.

I am still kickin myself for not forcing you to give me a country side ride in that thing when we were there. :twak: