billy
any updates on the nova??

Finally started working on it again this weekend. I'll have some new pics up in the next couple days.

Thanks

I will be waiting patiently for updates on your awesome craftsmanship :thumbsup:

Update!!
 

Finally an Update:woot: . Started working on it again. In the process of packaging everything. The engine compartment is filling up fast with coolers, reservoirs and plumbing. Here are a couple shots.

http://i326.photobucket.com/albums/k...updateweb1.jpg

http://i326.photobucket.com/albums/k...updateweb2.jpg

http://i326.photobucket.com/albums/k...updateweb3.jpg

Very nice work. Bitchen exacution on the details.

Very nice Billy.
Are those the coil over adjustment canisters on the cage in the engine bay? Good idea!!:thumbsup: :cheers:

Looks awesome as always.

?? tell me about this cooler ??

ps - Dan H told me to tell you Hi

Thanks Jay, I really can't wait get this thing on the road/track.


Yes sir, those are the remote canisters. thanks

Hey Marty, That is the engine oil cooler. I ran out of places to put a 9"x15"x2.5" cooler...lol. It might not be the most efficient spot, but it should still help out. Tell Dan I said Hi as well.

Looks good.....what are the two small black coolers on the front for? powersteering and ??

Nice packaging

Thanks, The other cooler is for the T-56.

your engine oil cooler pointing facing down you aren't worried about debree from the raod hitting this cooler?? great build by the way on a 3rd gen nova :woot:

Hey Billy! Awesome work as always. I've been trying to think of how you can get some air to the oil cooler. I was trying to envision the bumpers on these cars and if there was any way to duct air from the parking light area to the oil cooler. Probably forcing the air from the top down through the cooler may be better???????????????

I don't know how much an issue oil temp will be though. Just having the cooler and extra oil capacity may be more than enough to keep the oil temps down. It's just been kicking around in my head.

See you at SEMA in a couple of weeks! I can't wait!!!!!!!!!

Billy just a super job on your car.A ton of great ideas.Cant wait to see it finished.Looks like 2010 muscle machine of the year winner to me.LOVE IT, LOVE IT.Scott.

Yeah this thing is awesome, you have talent/ taste.:yes:

Bitchin man---truly cool stuff you got going on there---you are an artist fo shizzel---sorry, just saw snoop dog on a commercial--:lol:

There ain't much real estate on the front of these things is there---it's tough when you want to run a cooler for Trans, Motor, PS---but necessary for any serious track time. Hope the engine oil cooler works that way, since that's how i'd do mine if it does---keep pushing forward man--you got skills.

Doug

Hey Brandon,

I had a lot of similar ideas as yours. I'm hoping that just having the extra capacity and a cooler to circulate the oil through will be adequate. If not we just picked up two small spal fans to mount on it to get some forced airflow if needed.

Can't wait for SEMA as well :cheers:

Thanks Doug, We're planing on this car seeing some serious track time and road trips. So we're trying to equip it with the necessary hardware. which in itself has turned into it's own mini project of packaging problem solving. :faint:



Thanks for the compliments guys, I appreciate them.

Made some small progress tonight. Fabbed up the Power steering Reservoir.

http://i326.photobucket.com/albums/k...er/PSTank1.jpg

http://i326.photobucket.com/albums/k...er/PSTank2.jpg

Nice!!

A man after my own heart -- I love building my own stuff!!

:lateral: :woot:

Billy,

I noticed in your second picture that your using regular steel braided -6 line coming out of the high pressure side on your power steering pump. CHANGE IT !!!! That hose isn't designed for power steering. You need to change it over to a steel braid teflon inner lined type hose. The regular steel braid is not designed for those types of pressures. The steel braid hose has about a 1300 psi working pressure. The spikes in pressure on the power steering system will cause it to burst in a short time and the heat it generates isn't good for it either.

Hope this helps.

Mark

Not sure how I have missed this one but WOW!!!

Your fab work is awsome. Can't wait to see more.

Hey Mark, I appreciate the heads up. Probably saved me a mess :cheers:. That was the hose the hydraulic store recommended to me about a year ago for the application. I called them up, and the max working PSI for the hose is 1500 which your right its not going to be enough. Thanks again.

Billy -- You can use that kind of hose on the LOW PRESSURE side - ie., the return line from your canister but BENT is correct - you need TFE braided hose on the HIGH Pressure side - pump to rack....

From my experience - in case you haven't worked with the TFE stuff -- don't cut this with a cut off saw -- it MELTS the liner and you'll never get the hose put together. And ditto - if you try to use some type of "clamping" cut off... that squeezes the TFE and deforms it.

I have a circular saw - set up with a hose cutting jig (sold by XPS I think) the saw uses a blade that is toothless -- called a CIRCULAR KNIFE BLADE -- think about a meat cutters blade... and this blade slices through the braid and TFE liner without the heat or deformation. Maybe BENT can chime in here on a way to cut this stuff without the saw/jig investment??????

Something else - YOU might know about - but when I respond to threads like this - I write with the thought that others may be reading... Use SWIVEL fittings on this stuff... because when you tighten them - they'll try to twist your hose - and it makes it almost impossible then to route it the way you envisioned. With the swivel fittings - the hose can remain exactly how you intended.

Just my .00000005 worth.


:lateral: :woot:

Oh come on, your opinion is worth much more than that. At least .00000006! :rofl: Lots of good info on here these days. I love it!

Great work Billy.
Keep up the posts please.:thumbsup:

No problem!! I tend to notice the small things.



Good pointers Greg. I actually use a cut off wheel. Just be slow and let the wheel do the cutting. Don't force it. The inner tube might melt a little but just clean it with a small blade or your finger nail. Make sure it's a good strait, square cut also.

They don't make a swivel teflon hose end that I'm aware of or ever seen in my experience. Instal one end and then loosely instal the other. Route your hose and screw the connections on. Take a marker and draw a line on the hose and on the fitting. Take it off and tighten it up in a vice and make sure your fitting and hose line up with the marker on the final tighten and you should have no problems. Teflon hose assem. are time consuming. So be patient and take your time.

Hope I made sense.

Mark

Mark ---

I don't want to in any way say "see here" or that kind of thing - but I have a whole drawer full of PTFE Aeroquip SWIVEL fittings... so I HOPE I'M HELPING you both out here!!! Because they really make a lot of this SO MUCH EASIER!

Here's a link to the Aeroquip PDF catalog page with the PTFE hose ends that swivel -- they're plated - so I BUFF 'EM UP BEFORE I put them on the hose... and they stay nice a shiny!

http://www.hydraulic-supply.com/pdf/performance/40.pdf


:hail: :hail:

Mis-under standing. When you referred to swivel hose end I thought you ment a live swivel like 45's, 90's on steel braided lines. Which means it can move once it's assembled. All the teflon hose ends 45's and 90's are non swivel. Which means once it's assembled in it's fixed position the angle doesn't change.

Example: two 90 degree ends. One end is assembled and angled down in the 6 o'clock position. If the other end is tightened down in the 9 o'clock position those two angles never change.

If they were live swivels on both ends then they will turn 360 degrees for ever.

Don't forget all hose ends swivel or you could only tighten one end.

These discussions are always good. It helps everyone become smarter.

Thanks Mark

update
 

Heres a few pics of some recent progress.




http://i326.photobucket.com/albums/k.../DSC033901.jpg

http://i326.photobucket.com/albums/k.../DSC033941.jpg

http://i326.photobucket.com/albums/k...r/DSC03395.jpg

http://i326.photobucket.com/albums/k.../DSC034071.jpg

http://i326.photobucket.com/albums/k.../DSC034091.jpg

http://i326.photobucket.com/albums/k.../DSC034111.jpg

http://i326.photobucket.com/albums/k.../DSC034121.jpg

http://i326.photobucket.com/albums/k.../DSC034131.jpg

Killer fab work,like this project alot!!!

Billy,
Did you weld the sub frame connectors to the sub frame or is the sub frame still removable?? Awsome fab work :cheers:

This car is awesome!
Kinda jealous of all the tools/ skills you have, keep up the good work.:thumbsup:

Thanks, the subframe is currently just tacked to the connectors. I still need to remove the sub for some work then it get welded up.

VERY NICE!!!
Looking good Billy. Keep us posted.:thumbsup:

Greg you are the man.:rofl: :rofl: :rofl:

Jus' tryin' to be helpful Kendall... 'cause YOU are the man!


:thumbsup:

That why we don't sleep at night 1:30 sunday morning trying to build a better mouse trap.( we just have work harder to keep up with those youngster HA!):_paranoid :_paranoid

Just incredible

Any updates?

I want your car... badly.

The Body is on the rotisserie getting the final metal work finished so we can start the body work for paint :woot: . Should have some new pics up in a couple days.