Got the Intake today -- it has a HUGE common plenum built into the floor - and a removable plate on the valley side... SWEET! Nice quality piece. Casting quality and machining are top notch.

There is a half inch hole in each runner porting to the common plenum - and there are 3 threaded ports for various vacuum "items". This is going to be a huge improvement over my Webber manifold!

I'll post up some pics tomorrow.

Just a couple pics of the 8 stack EFI Inglese intake == showing the common plenum they've built in. A really nice piece! Note the THREE ports in the floor.

http://i919.photobucket.com/albums/a...e/DSC_7773.jpg


A removable floor piece on the valley side....

http://i919.photobucket.com/albums/a...e/DSC_7776.jpg


With the floor piece removed...

http://i919.photobucket.com/albums/a...e/DSC_7780.jpg


Look into the intake port and you can see the 1/2" holes for the vacuum source "under the blades"... NICE!!!

http://i919.photobucket.com/albums/a...e/DSC_7782.jpg

Thats a beautiful looking intake.

Thanks Wayne! The casting quality is just first class all the way - far better "as cast" than my Weber version!

what's the max diameter butterfly they'll accept?


Jody

Good question Jody -- I have no clue!

My throttle bodies are 2"... and based on the IDA Weber "platform"....

I don't know what the flow rate is - if you stacked all 8 and did a WOT -- but I'm thinking it's way more air than my motor will ever need!! :rolleyes:

In fact - I've thought about that many times - thinking about the blades on a 850 CFM Holley -- and then comparing that to the "area" of 8 x 2" holes... I'm thinking these manifolds have to be capable of 1200 CFM plus?

well, total cfm doesn't mean a lot when you're speaking of individual runner setups. There is no "borrowing" for a cylinder like there is in a common plenum setup, the max airflow for a port is whatever that port/blade can flow.

I remember with my Hilborn setup, it used 2 3/16" blades which seem huge; flowed like 280 cfm per port , so like 2200 cfm total.................. problem was my heads were good for 312 cfm per port (intake), so I actually was pulling 2-3 inches of vacuum at wot, showing the flow restriction.

With higher hp IR setup you need to make sure they can flow enough to support your power level. Many of the smaller setups will support maybe 500 hp or so; not a problem with most engines but something to consider with a stronger build or larger engine.

Jody

Right! Good points Jody!

For me - this won't be an issue... and these manifolds (my Weber and this new one) will only cover an intake port using Fel Pro 1205 gasket size... so you're automatically limited to a smaller set of heads from the get go.

I could go as large as the Dart Pro 1 200cc head... But these intakes won't cover the set of Canfield 220's I have which have the raised ports.

I'm just building a "hot rod" motor - as I've mentioned before. Going for more bottom end - cruising and street manors this time around... and this is an "experiment" to try out the FAST EZ EFI. I'm not even taking the Accel Gen 7 stuff out of the Nomad until this new set up proves itself on the engine dyno!

it's a great looking manifold, and I really like the plenum deal they did. I just wanted people to know that total cfm of airflow with an IR setup can be quite misleading and is not quite what it is with a common plenum setup.

Jody

YOU'RE RIGHT! It's all based on a single hole!

I do LOVE the instantaneous throttle response they deliver!

You crack the throttle - you go zoom zoom... :>)

Talking to a tuner about IR's -- he says that to tune them correctly you have to add cells to the tables - especially down low (high vacuum) because you crack the throttle and there's lots of AIR but no fuel... so he redefines the tables to be able to have the cells (more and closer) to react to that inflow of air. Made sense to me.

I'm not using the correct descriptions for the tuning part - but you get what I mean.

Yes and No

It all depends on what Cam you are running and how much idle Vac it produces. I just got back from Eugene, OR.... tuning an XFI with a Hilborn EFI intake. Hilborn told them that they could just use one of the 350 ECU tunes in the Fast folder :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: not even close. Anyway, you have to do several things correct to make it work. #1 is I always use sequential no matter what, you have seperate stacks for air and you also should for fuel. It just fixes alot of problems, that was the first thing I changed on this Vette. If it is a standard trans it is even more important. #2 is, at idle all of the butterflies should flow the same with one of those flow meters or you will chase your tail. #3 the scale (KPA) on the left of the ECU VE Table program (if it can) should be scaled correct for the cam you are using, sometimes it needs more at the bottom and sometimes more at the top. It really depends on the cam combo. But then this is nothing different that should not be done on every engine too.

The whole VE KPA thing is what has me worried about the EZ EFI, (since you can't change it) but it does work very well with the other combos. It is also only bank to bank. The intake is really cool though. I have been wanting to use one of those with an XFI on someting. It may eventually be my Nova Wagon.

Eugene is nice -- Lots and lots of college girls! LOL

Brian -- The number one reason I have left the entire Accel Gen 7 INSTALLED in the Nomad -- is because it ain't coming out of there until this EZ stuff proves itself on the engine dyno!

I do plan to do everything I can to make it work - ala buying the Inglese intake... The cam will have 113* LSA -- and 230/236 duration... so not too wild.

I agree with you on the one intake - one airway - one fuel way theory... and have so not come to terms with the "batch fire" system that the EZ uses - but (BIG BUTT) I ASSume that Inglese wouldn't offer this system with their IR intake if they hadn't made it work... Keeping my fingers crossed of course. Hope they didn't keep their fingers crossed behind their backs!

No, I agree that they have done some testing BUT I think that will also depend on how big of a cam someone uses and how much vac it makes. If it is something like yours, you stand a good chance getting it to work well.

Funny that you would say that just because someone sells it that it should work, how many car parts have you bought that didn't? I have a pile of them. About 1/2 of the EFI stuff out there is junk and really does not work very well.

I am not down on the EZ EFI at all, I really actually like it, just not so sure on this application.

The car I worked on the last few days had a XFI, which does a bunch more than the EZ, it didin't have the plenum in the bottom but was a 350 with a very small cam, also a 5 speed. It did not work with bank to bank mode, switched to a crank trigger and modified his MSD tach drive distributor and almost all of our idle problems just went away. I expect a very detailed report when you are done if I can't make it up there.

I talked to Divers today, they are on a mad dash to get the 39 Ford done, so I wll be up that way before too long. At least in the next couple of months anyway.

I think I should have the motor on the dyno next week some time. I will video it -- and all the "process" as we go thru it.

I know what you're saying about "just because they sell it". I "hot rod" every part I get I think! LOL

I went with Smallish cam --- and smallish heads (Dart Pro 1 180cc) in order to keep vacuum signal strong and the idle good... it's a hot rod motor - in a heavy car - with 700r4 and 3:7O's - 2600 stall converter... I need it to be DRIVABLE on power tour without hassles... :>)

It shall be fun and a good learning curve! :woot:

At least it is an auto with a mild engine, that should help a bunch. Don't expect it to run very well for 7 or 8 pulls, make sure the dyno guy runs the engine warmer that they usually do. It needs to be a min of 140 but I would keep the engine 180. The EZ EFI will not go into learn mode if it is too cold. It takes a little bit of running for it to learn and start adjusting to where it will run good.

Good info Brian --- And yes -- I'd read that about the 140* for "learn mode".

My plan is to bring it up to temp -- then do some "steady state" at various rpms and loads... let the ECM learn... get everything nice and warm... then start at lower RPMS and just bring things up nice and slowly while loaded.

The dyno cell at Prestons has the A/F up on the wall (digital) as well as the monitor. I'm also going to run individual EGT's... because it's a new motor and I don't plan on hurting it right out of the box.

The dyno has a fuel/spark kill - with an instant shut down under load... so we can pull a blast - kill it - and read the plugs... I'm thinking that with small heads -- small cam - it should make some cylinder pressure - and timing might need to be a little less than the "normal" 36 or 38*...... What say you?

I thought I would add some pics of how I modded my FAST dist to overcome the loose cap syndrome. I bought a Mini Mill and trying my hand at different projects. Having never been a machinist it is a fun learning curve. I'm just glad I have not had to pay for any of the aluminum that I've used up in the process.

These are my third attempt at the mounts, took me a couple of tries to figure out just how to use the rotary table for the proper radius cuts but now that I've got that figured out I am already planning on my next generation mounts. Hopefully a bit more aesthetically pleasing.

http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h1...s/DSCN0130.jpg

http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h1...s/DSCN0126.jpg

John- They look great! Im curious how deep were you able to drill into the housing were the button head screws are? I wasn't sure how much meat was behind there so I was reluctant to take your approach, but I like it much better. Are the button heads #10-24/32 or 1/4-20/28s? Nice job :thumbsup:

Rich

Rich,
The housing is about 1/8" thick in that area, not Ideal but I think it will hold up. That whole area of the distributor is open on the inside so drilling through and tapping was not an issue, I used loctite on the screws as well. One thing that you may not be able to tell from the pictures is that I milled a 1/2" diameter recess where the small detent for the clip used to be. I plan on making another set this time with the mounting stud as part of the mount instead of a separate spacer. If you are interested I could hook you up :)

Mounting stuff like that is what TIG welders are designed for.... :rofl: :thumbsup: