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-   -   And Penny just keeps on changing... (https://www.lateral-g.net/forums/showthread.php?t=23364)

Steve1968LS2 01-04-2010 10:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by James OLC (Post 258590)
I don't know if would be able to find a way to incorporate one (but I know that you are more than capable of figuring it out) but the marine 502's used to have a thermostatically controlled oil cooler that sandwiched between the block and the filter. IIRC the thermostat was set at about 220; below that the oil went straight to the filter, above that it went to the cooler first.

My Canton thermostat (the one you reference) works great but is huge - especially once you get 4 -12 lines going through it. Earls makes a much more reasonably packaged t-stat that is just slightly bigger than a deck of cards.

That being said - I don't think that you need one with the water based cooler. But I might be mistaken.

You don't need a t-stat with a water based cooler.. but I will have an air based cooler now.

The size of the Canton isn't a big deal since it will mount on the front of the core support (plenty of room). I don't like the Perma-Cool and Earls t-stats because (to me) they seem too restrictive. I read that the internals are pretty small and the reason the Canton unit is bigger it that is needs to be bigger to pass the right volume of oil.

I spoke with them today and we discussed why thier t-stat is set at 215-degrees while others are set lower (like 200 or even 180). They said they do this so that the temp is over the boiling point of water (212). This way any moisture in the oil will burn off, seemed to make sense.

Anyways, one is on the way, now to order up the Setrab.

Steve1968LS2 01-04-2010 10:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gmorris (Post 258569)
I'm running that stat and like it so far. I haven't made it back to the track to really punish it but on the street the oil comes up to temp just as fast as it did without the setrab cooler and seems to level off just over the set temp rather than just climbing until I lost my nerve like it did before. The stat has huge flow passages so I din't think there is any really restriction there either. The plumbing is a bit of a pain though.

My oil lines will now run up to the core support where they will attach to bulkheads. After that all the lines to the t-stat, the Setrab, back to the t-stat and to the bulkhead will be hard lines. It should make it all a bit neater. This will keep my engine bay neat and empty and utilize the dead space between my grill and the core support.

Steve1968LS2 01-10-2010 06:14 PM

The core support is fully in now, but there were a couple of issues that found. The nice part is that I spoke with the owner and he's making changes to future kits base on my suggestions. It's nice to see responses like this from companies.

Problem on was that the core support mount sat 3/4 or and inch too high. This means we needed a thicker spacer or a "stepped" mount. Future kits will have a way to step the mount. Not a big deal, but a PITA to fab on the spot.

Problem two was that on the LS style radiator the fill cap should be on the driver's side. In this configuration you would have a hard time running the car with the cap off (to fill, etc) since it would splash from the water pump inlet.

Like I said future ones will be changed. Other than that I love the kit. If you look at the earlier pics I posted you can really see how much bigger the opening is. When I mount my huge Setrab 925 cooler it's only going to shroud a small percent of the radiator and the increased cooling capacity should be really nice to have.

In my case we're going to move the cap ourselves. Here it is with thier optional core support closeout. I think it's pretty sweet looking, but I've gotten use to the DSE version, so we're going to fab it to work.

Also, the Autorad deal gives more clearance between the radiator fans and the water pump, so people would have an easier time with packaging an air induction system.

Here's a shot with their closeout...

http://i49.tinypic.com/29w4i0m.jpg

camcojb 01-10-2010 06:20 PM

that sure is a clean looking setup, too bad they don't make one for a 73 Vega.....................:lol: yeah, big market there........... :rofl:

Jody

Steve1968LS2 01-10-2010 06:24 PM

Finalized the Oil Cooler system:

Canton high-flow t-stat
Setrab 925 oil cooler

Cooler is like this one:
http://www.patrickmotorsports.com/part/1574/

The cooler will me mountd to bosses on the pass side of the radiator. The 10 AN lines will pass through the core support via bulkhead fitttings and go to the t-stat mounted to front side of the core support. All the lines on the front will be hard lines. This way the cooling system will be integral to the core support.

Also finalized the new engine:

440 cui LS engine
Darton MID sleeves in an LS2 block
Lunati Pro Crank = 4" stroke
4.185 Bore
Wiseco -8cc pistons
Compression should be 11.2:1 with 70 cc heads
K1 lightweght H-beam rods (6.125")
Canton oil pan

Either
235 Trick flow heads with Fast 92mm intake
or
Mast 12-degree Black Lable LS3 style heads with FAST 102mm intake

We're guessing 660 hp and right at 600 ft-lbs or torque.

Steve1968LS2 01-10-2010 06:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by camcojb (Post 260473)
that sure is a clean looking setup, too bad they don't make one for a 73 Vega.....................:lol: yeah, big market there........... :rofl:

Jody

I'm sure we would wittle one up.. especially with your mad skills.. :yes:

tobenk 01-10-2010 07:33 PM

Steve the radiator support looks awesome and motor combo don't sound to bad either. :lol: By the way one of the best camaros of all time in my opinion.:thumbsup:

GregWeld 01-10-2010 08:02 PM

WOW! That's great looking Steve!

Great info on the cap etc - something many would never think about!

:thumbsup:

Steve1968LS2 01-10-2010 09:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tobenk (Post 260511)
Steve the radiator support looks awesome and motor combo don't sound to bad either. :lol: By the way one of the best camaros of all time in my opinion.:thumbsup:

Yea, I was really tempted to run that, but I like how the DSE panel extends into the engine bay and frames the engine. Or more like that is what I'm use to seeing.

and thanks for the compliments.. lots of NICE cars out there these days.

Quote:

Originally Posted by GregWeld (Post 260525)
WOW! That's great looking Steve!

Great info on the cap etc - something many would never think about!

:thumbsup:

It was nice how Jim at Autorad listened and was open to changes. Other people might have noticed the same things but never gave feedback to the them.

Steve1968LS2 01-10-2010 09:43 PM

Hmmm.. what's that writing on the inner fender well??? :unibrow:

David Pozzi 01-10-2010 10:14 PM

Steve,
That radiator setup looks great as is, I like that better than the DSE closeout.
A separate cooler is good. I like the engine combo, should make tons of torque and weigh nearly the same as before.
David

nvr2fst 01-10-2010 10:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Steve1968LS2 (Post 260549)
Hmmm.. what's that writing on the inner fender well??? :unibrow:

Looks like my initial thought I posted maybe wrong.

Steve,
Your reincarnation thread has been very informative. Your product installations, reasoning for why the change is made and what weighed out in the product selection has been doc. perfectly. But..I wouldn't except anything less coming from you. Great work so far and try not to scratch it during reassembly!

Steve1968LS2 01-11-2010 07:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by David Pozzi (Post 260556)
Steve,
That radiator setup looks great as is, I like that better than the DSE closeout.
A separate cooler is good. I like the engine combo, should make tons of torque and weigh nearly the same as before.
David

Yea, I think the MID sleeves add about 6 pounds. So, almost the same weight.

I like it better as well from a "looks fabbed" standpoint. But I'm use to the DSE part. Also, this one is trickier to remove if I need access to the oil cooler system or other part. This is because some screws go in from the bottom. With my mesh that would be a PITA.

Bow Tie 67 01-11-2010 08:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Steve1968LS2 (Post 260603)
Yea, I think the MID sleeves add about 6 pounds. So, almost the same weight.

I like it better as well from a "looks fabbed" standpoint. But I'm use to the DSE part. Also, this one is trickier to remove if I need access to the oil cooler system or other part. This is because some screws go in from the bottom. With my mesh that would be a PITA.

Upgrades look nice, I agree with David on the close-outs. Maybe you can incorporate some type of Dzus fastener, after all Penny is more so on the race side of the line than street. ( that is a good thing :thumbsup: )

buickfunnycar.com 01-11-2010 10:35 AM

Looks real slick Steve...:thumbsup:

customcam 01-11-2010 06:15 PM

Leave is it as it is! lol yeah rite
Steve a bit modest on the Hp prediction of that 440?

Steve1968LS2 01-15-2010 09:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by customcam (Post 260775)
Leave is it as it is! lol yeah rite
Steve a bit modest on the Hp prediction of that 440?

Yea, so we said screw it.. let's see if we can make it a 454. lol

New plan:

Tomorrow the 402 comes out so we can re-undercoat the car.

Here's what we have so far:

Sleeved LS2 block (Darton MID)
Mast Motorsport 12-degree LS3 style heads
4.185 bore
4.125 stroke - Lunati Pro Series crank
6.125 K1 lightweight (614g) H-beam rods
Wiseco Pistons yielding about 11.5:1 compression
Comp cam on a 114 LSA.. should idle pretty smooth.
FAST 102mm LSXr intake
Ported TBW throttle body
Canton oiling system
ARP everything

That would make this a 454 aluminum small-block LS engine. Conservative estimates are 670hp and over 600 lb-ft of torque.

Weight gain, due to the sleeves, should be around 6-lbs

Just need to do a few mods to the Canton oil pan. Still doing the math on it, but it should work just fine.

89 RS 01-15-2010 09:14 PM

Sounds like that's going to be one nice engine. Very nice Steve. Are you doing an article on it too?

Vegas69 01-15-2010 09:29 PM

454, is that a big block? You're like me, pushing the limit every chance you get. I like it....:thumbsup:

Steve1968LS2 01-15-2010 11:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 89 RS (Post 261966)
Sounds like that's going to be one nice engine. Very nice Steve. Are you doing an article on it too?

Yep.. Looks like it will be in CP and most likely Engine Masters since it's a bit unique.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Vegas69 (Post 261973)
454, is that a big block? You're like me, pushing the limit every chance you get. I like it....:thumbsup:

More like a big small-block I guess.. It is sorta crazy what you can do these days.

Rybar 01-16-2010 08:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Steve1968LS2 (Post 261965)
Yea, so we said screw it.. let's see if we can make it a 454. lol

New plan:

Tomorrow the 402 comes out so we can re-undercoat the car.

Here's what we have so far:

Sleeved LS2 block (Darton MID)
Mast Motorsport 12-degree LS3 style heads
4.185 bore
4.125 stroke - Lunati Pro Series crank
6.125 K1 lightweight (614g) H-beam rods
Wiseco Pistons yielding about 11.5:1 compression
Comp cam on a 114 LSA.. should idle pretty smooth.
FAST 102mm LSXr intake
Ported TBW throttle body
Canton oiling system
ARP everything

That would make this a 454 aluminum small-block LS engine. Conservative estimates are 670hp and over 600 lb-ft of torque.

Weight gain, due to the sleeves, should be around 6-lbs

Just need to do a few mods to the Canton oil pan. Still doing the math on it, but it should work just fine.

Very nice motor Steve, any idea what it would cost for us non-magazine guys?

customcam 01-16-2010 06:27 PM

Wow :willy:
Just Awesome

Kendall Burleson 01-16-2010 06:55 PM

Steve what size are the chamber on those heads?Titaniums valves?

Steve1968LS2 01-16-2010 07:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kendall Burleson (Post 262194)
Steve what size are the chamber on those heads?Titaniums valves?

Stainless valves I believe.. chamber volume is 72cc. Since they are 12-degree Mast reccomends stock rockers but I will have them bushed since needle bearings make me nervous.

Steve1968LS2 01-16-2010 07:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rybar (Post 262037)
Very nice motor Steve, any idea what it would cost for us non-magazine guys?

Let's see..

Carry the three.. add in the x..

Rough guess.. $14,000..

I'm sort of unsure of the Darton MID cost. I think it's $1,600 but the good news is that you can use a screw up block to save on that end (I bought my block for $400)

So it's not much more (or the same) as an LSX iron block.

Heads are spendy at just over $3k.. Crank is $2k.. rods are $800.. you get the idea.

I will come up with a total for you though. And no, I don't get it for free.. or even close to free.. :)

Steve1968LS2 01-16-2010 09:53 PM

We started pulling the engine/trans today, but I had to split to go do a photo shoot of Driverz Inc's Nova.

The guys were nice enough to finish up the pull, I suppose I owe them some more beer or some Carne Asada.. lol

Matt Alcala snapped a few pics.. and to think I drove it into the shop.. I'm a sick sick person.


http://i366.photobucket.com/albums/o...00116-1523.jpg

http://i366.photobucket.com/albums/o...00116-1523.jpg

http://i366.photobucket.com/albums/o...00116-1524.jpg

Thanks for sending me the pics Matt :cheers:

Matt@BOS 01-17-2010 11:04 AM

Sure thing. I figured you were in a hurry if you didn't have time to take pictures, because that generally isn't like you. BTW what magazine are you shooting the Nova for?

Matt

Steve1968LS2 01-17-2010 11:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 69MSA (Post 262296)
Sure thing. I figured you were in a hurry if you didn't have time to take pictures, because that generally isn't like you. BTW what magazine are you shooting the Nova for?

Matt

Shot the red Nova from Driverz Inc.. it's a VERY nice '67. We shot it at El Toro along with a pro-street 71 Camaro.

I did take some pics but I had to split before the big engine yank.

Funny story, we found a butane lighter sitting on the engine right on the fuel injectors. I must of been on there since before the RTTH event when I had some wiring done (bet it was used on some shink wrap). Most likely not the best spot to leave a lighter.

And in other news:

The rear end housing has been modified and is almost ready to go to power paint. Thanks to the Bradster for doing the wicked welds on my sway bar pads. In addition to ditching the U-bolt deal we cut off the brake line tabs and will be using some sweet billet pieces made by Cris over at JCG Restorations. Going to swing by Currie and have then check the tollerances on the ends since on one side the bearing feels a bit loose and leaks a touch.

http://i47.tinypic.com/nzqgcx.jpg

Cris@JCG 01-17-2010 11:51 AM

Good to see the brake line clamps are Penny worthy!!

Maybe this hood catch might look good also!!!! :D

http://i1015.photobucket.com/albums/...n/P1150024.jpg


Quote:

Originally Posted by Steve1968LS2 (Post 262298)
Shot the red Nova from Driverz Inc.. it's a VERY nice '67. We shot it at El Toro along with a pro-street 71 Camaro.

I did take some pics but I had to split before the big engine yank.

Funny story, we found a butane lighter sitting on the engine right on the fuel injectors. I must of been on there since before the RTTH event when I had some wiring done (bet it was used on some shink wrap). Most likely not the best spot to leave a lighter.

And in other news:

The rear end housing has been modified and is almost ready to go to power paint. Thanks to the Bradster for doing the wicked welds on my sway bar pads. In addition to ditching the U-bolt deal we cut off the brake line tabs and will be using some sweet billet pieces made by Cris over at JCG Restorations. Going to swing by Currie and have then check the tollerances on the ends since on one side the bearing feels a bit loose and leaks a touch.


GregWeld 01-17-2010 11:56 AM

Wow -- you're really going to town Steve!! But as you know - it's a "well - as long as I'm here I might as well...."

Nice improvements on an already killer car!

:thumbsup:

Cris@JCG 01-17-2010 12:01 PM

Dry sump for LS2
 
Just an idea Steve, since you are getting a new crankshaft for the new motor why don't you get it with an LS7 snout to run the LS7 oil pump, timing chain cover, oil pan, & run an aftermarket oil tank!!!! The harmonic balancer should also work with your current drive you have?? If not just get an ATI dampner & we will machine a crank pulley for you.. If I was building an LS motor from scratch.. This how I would do it :D GM spent a good chunk of $$$ to develop this dry sump system!!

Steve1968LS2 01-17-2010 12:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gonzo (Post 262306)
Just an idea Steve, since you are getting a new crankshaft for the new motor why don't you get it with an LS7 snout to run the LS7 oil pump, timing chain cover, oil pan, & run an aftermarket oil tank!!!! The harmonic balancer should also work with your current drive you have?? If not just get an ATI dampner & we will machine a crank pulley for you.. If I was building an LS motor from scratch.. This how I would do it :D GM spent a good chunk of $$$ to develop this dry sump system!!

Because I'm a less is more guy and every pound I add to the car kills me. Plus I've had zero oil issues with my modded Canton pan, even at sustained 1.2+g left and right turns. Also, the LS7 pan won't clear my rack unless I raise the engine and that's a non-starter. :)

Steve1968LS2 01-17-2010 12:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gonzo (Post 262303)
Good to see the brake line clamps are Penny worthy!!

Maybe this hood catch might look good also!!!! :D

http://i1015.photobucket.com/albums/...n/P1150024.jpg

Still have my shipping address???? lol I only see one problem. Since they are thicker where the bolts go through it might hit my DSE closeout panel. As it is I have to use rounded allen bolts and they still almost touch. Ideas?

Those are so sweet.. you're really making some nice stuff Cris. We are doing a billet guide and you should feature something very unique like this in it. I will call you about it. Get that website done! ;)

As for your brake line clamp. After seeing this I will never again weld brake line tabs to a housing. With these I can rotate and slide them to just the right spot. Here's a shot:

http://i48.tinypic.com/2nb94wx.jpg

Cris@JCG 01-17-2010 12:42 PM

I will have to see what we can do to to clear The DSE close out panel.. I have one here @ the shop..

Thanks for the compliments on the billet stuff!! Let me know when guys are doing the feature story & will get you what I have.. Now I have stop crusing the forums & get back the txt for my website.. That is my hang up with the site :)

Quote:

Originally Posted by Steve1968LS2 (Post 262310)
Still have my shipping address???? lol I only see one problem. Since they are thicker where the bolts go through it might hit my DSE closeout panel. As it is I have to use rounded allen bolts and they still almost touch. Ideas?

Those are so sweet.. you're really making some nice stuff Cris. We are doing a billet guide and you should feature something very unique like this in it. I will call you about it. Get that website done! ;)

As for your brake line clamp. After seeing this I will never again weld brake line tabs to a housing. With these I can rotate and slide them to just the right spot. Here's a shot:


eville 01-17-2010 01:34 PM

where do i get some of those brake line clamps?

Cris@JCG 01-17-2010 02:21 PM

Sent you a PM.

Quote:

Originally Posted by eville (Post 262334)
where do i get some of those brake line clamps?


ScotI 01-18-2010 11:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by eville (Post 262334)
where do i get some of those brake line clamps?

x2 :D .

legend 01-19-2010 04:19 AM

would adding some of the Nelson racing throttle bodies see over 700bhp on that engine spec?

1970camaroRS 01-20-2010 01:25 AM

This car is like a supermodel. Every thinks it's the sexiest thing in the world and couldn't be more perfect...but someone somewhere isn't happy with it.

Steve1968LS2 01-27-2010 11:58 AM

Got a couple of Best Of Show spy shots today of the new inner fender wells..

http://i46.tinypic.com/55hvmp.jpg

http://i49.tinypic.com/2eclymx.jpg


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