Jon,Looking very good.Nice job on that tube bending.Scott

Okay, so it sounds like its trying to find a rod that will support the load more than the bolt (5/8 or 3/4)


I am trying to learn a little bit of this, so if you see any thing wrong please let me know.

While searching through google, I found the equation for shear strength:

tensile strength pounds/in2 x cross sectional area.

In the case of a -10 an bolt with a tensile strength of 160,000 psi and a cross-sectional area of 0.306640625 in2 at the full diameter

160000 pounds/in2 x 0.306640625 in2 = 49062.5 pounds

If 49062.5 pounds is single shear, you double it to get 98125 double shear, right? That should be the amount of force to shear the bolt?


Thanks,
Jon

Thanks Scott, still trying to get used to the bender. Scott, what do you use to lube up the die and tube while bending? Right now I am using wd40 to lube up the die, but I think I should be using some grease instead. I have a hard time bending the tube by my self with about a 7' lever. I am going to try some grease on the next few tubes and see what happens.

Thanks,
Jon

Jon,a light grease will work also.If your bender is a mech. type try finding someone my size.Having a buddy that is 6'3" and 280# will solve your bending problems.:lol: Scott.

Yeah, being 5' 9" and 130 doesn't cut it with a mech bender, but it keeps the car lighter, lol. I had to use a piece of bar stock to make the handle longer so I could get it to bend but after 2 bends, I had to have my Dad help me out.

Thanks,
Jon

Your math looks correct! The weak link usually is the rod end not the bolt.

Didn't work on the car as much as I wanted to this weekend, but it was my Dad's birthday Saturday so we took time off the car. But, last week I have been working on the car for an hour or so after work redoing the engine bay bars.

At first I had bought the firewall mounted Tilton pedals, but they interfered with how I wanted the engine bay bars so I sent them back to Summit and ordered the reversed under dash setup with the cool cnc aluminum pedals. This way I could keep the engine bay bracing simple. Well that didn't last long.

A few months ago Asif stopped by my house after getting his engine dyno'd for his AI Javelin and I was telling him about the pedals, he then told me about the trouble he had with mounting the remote reservoirs high enough in the engine compartment and that he had to move them to inside the car. I figured there was some thing that I could figure out.

Well now I started messing around with the pedals again, I found a way to mount the reservoirs on the firewall but I would have been expensive and a pain to do. And because of where the balance bar is located on the reverse mount pedals, it would be very difficult to make any adjustments, as the dash bar would be right on top of the balance bar. So now I am sending these back to get the original firewall mounted pedals that I had bought in the first place.

Asif, you were right!

http://inlinethumb49.webshots.com/18...600x600Q85.jpg
http://inlinethumb11.webshots.com/11...600x600Q85.jpg
http://inlinethumb30.webshots.com/40...600x600Q85.jpg
http://inlinethumb45.webshots.com/48...600x600Q85.jpg


So to use the firewall mounted pedals, I had to remake the engine bay bars, move them outward on the frame rail side and add an offset to clear where the master cylinders will come through the firewall. Once the engine gets set into place I will make a bar that connects the two down bars together and make some bracing from the shock mounts.

Under the dash, there will be a dash bar that connects the to engine bay bars together and will also be welded to the kick panel area. This will work out a lot better in so many different ways, I am glad I changed them around.

Thanks,
Jon

Look's real good,Can't wait to see this project completed.:thumbsup:

hey Jon, it's all part of the "fun" :)

glad to hear you've got a plan now. Can wait to see how it turns out. It'll be what I SHOULD have done. oh well...

Jon how is the javelin coming along.Thurs. I picked up a rust free 71 humpster javelin for my next project.Hope you don't mined if I use some of your idea's:thumbsup: when I start building the frame and connectror's.Scott.

Hey Scott,
Last Monday we worked on it a little bit, got the upper 3rd link bracket welded on and the lca mounts tacked on the new housing, got it under the car.

I am going to fab up a new pan hard bracket for the rear end today, but my Dad is sick so will see if he is up for welding it together tomorrow. I finally got my front wheels back from Forgeline Thursday, they now have the Bad Penny backspacing, so yesterday I got the tires mounted on them.

Nice find on the Javelin, are you going to do a trans-am build like the Sunoco Camaro? You can use many of my ideas as you want, thats no problem right there, lol :cheers:

You got good timing with that Javelin, because a member just pm'd me for your contact info, asking about a subframe for his 74 javelin, you now have the perfect car for R&D.

Thanks,
Jon

Jon,Will need to finish up the camaro first.then I will start working on the javelin.Will most likey be a red,white & blue Trans-am clone.:thumbsup:

Sounds awesome. Speaking of your camaro, it looks like its close to being finished, when do you expect your first drive with it?

Thanks,
Jon

this looks awesome!

About the middle of july I should be able to drive it.:thumbsup:

That's great news, my Humpster plans are delayed 'cuz I bought my road-race gremlin (no, I'm not kidding:P ), so It's cool to see another Javelin build on the horizon.

Here is a picture of my family haulin' Rambler, a bit of a different direction than your build, no silly jungle jim tubes running all over the place in the car. Just a quick reminder of what they look like with wheels under 'em:lol:
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...k/IMGP0192.jpg
But seriously, Keep up the good, (edit)GREAT work:thumbsup:

Nice looking car.

Thanks man, Jon's car will have a similar shape but will be very, very different:lol: .

Lol, thanks Mike. I can't believe that the car has been down for a year and a half. Your car is looking great, have you decided what you are going to do on your front spoiler? The more I look at that hood the more I like it, I might have to ditch the fiberglass amx hood and pick up a hood like yours. How does your hood fit the car? Hows the gaps?

My goal is to have the car on the ground in 2 months, hopefully less. I have to finish the panhard bar, weld in the roll bar and the front engine bay braces, then make some ride sticks to hold up the car. I think that is reasonable, Since I am only able to work on it a day or two on the weekends. Unless I get crazy and put a full cage in it, but I can't let myself do that, lol.


Here is a bad picture of the front wheel, it is a 17x9.5" with 7.4" bs I will have to use a small spacer to widen the track with and to clear the calipers. The tires are 274/40r17 Toyo R888's
http://inlinethumb63.webshots.com/48...600x600Q85.jpg

Thanks,
Jon

Jon,The wheel's look awesome.Can't wait too see the car setting on the ground.:thumbsup:

As far as the front spoiler goes, I’ve got to trim down my template to get it a bit smaller, then figure out the mounts. I also want to use the front blinker lights that are in the bumper for brake cooling ducts. Who knows when I’ll get to any of it.:rolleyes: As you can see, the hood isn't even properly painted yet, that's just black SEM primer.
The hood fits amazingly well for a race part. Way better than any AAR Cuda hood I’ve ever seen.
Here is a front shot where you can somewhat see the gaps. The biggest issue is that the Drivers side rear corner is a bit high. But even with that the fit was better than expected.
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...k/IMGP0194.jpg

Well, I have a small update. We haven't been working on the car as much as I had wanted to, but the roll bar is getting closer. Saturday, we got the main hoop tacked in place, down bars welded to the main hoop, diagonal and passenger harness bar tacked in place. Just have to finish the drivers harness bar and the main hoop components are done.

http://inlinethumb14.webshots.com/47...600x600Q85.jpg

Now, I just have to figure out how I want to build the door bars and how I want to connect those with the down bars in the engine bay.

Today, me and my Dad went to the autocross, speed stop challange, show car, and drags at the Auto Club Speedway in Fontana, CA. Got to see a lot of cool cars and even got a couple of my first rides ever on an autocross course! It was awesome, now I can't wait to drive my car again!!


Thanks,
Jon

Thanks,
Jon

Jon,the roll cage is looking real good.:thumbsup:

Hi Jon,
I've just finished reading all 15 pages of your project! It really is looking good! You have come a long way since we spoke on the AMC forum. Very Impressive!!! You have some excellent people here for advice.
Regarding the rear axle, I may have missed it, but did you have any camber or toe-in built in?
Hope to see you at the track soon!

Is this Bob with the Black 69 AMX with minilites? The rear axle has no camber or toe in built in. I bought the first housing and hubs before I realized that I could put camber in, if I were to start from scratch now I would think about putting some camber in it.

Yeah, it has come pretty far, and I made a lot of changes to the original plan. I wasn't going to get this extreme with the suspension but then I found this site and all hell broke loose, lol.

Thanks,
Jon

Depending on what hub you have I think you can buy different snouts with different camber built in?

AKA hillbillybob?
The fella with the fastest Trunion car in the west? :thumbsup:

Also, This weekend is the Kenosha Homecoming:cheers:
I'll take a few pictures

That's who I am thinking of. Bad ass car, one of the few along with yours, that lead me to turn corners instead of running in a straight line.

Mike, take as many pictures as you can for me, lol. Any word on that Javelin with the cage in it? has it been finished?

Thanks,
Jon

Hey Bryce, hows it going?

I am running the Moser aluminum 5x5 GN hubs. Since you brought that up I had to look, I found some gn -1 camber snouts that would work. But, it would be a pain to cut the ones off my housing now and weld these on. I guess I can always try this next time around.

Thanks,
Jon

Just to let anyone reading this know what we are talking about....
http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/k..._55531-1-1.jpg
Brian over at bangshift posted some of my pictures. Great weekend! It's very surreal to see that many AMC's in one spot.:D
How about another progress report!? :bow:

Hey, Mike, saw the pictures on bangshift. Good job at making some headline news! Unfortunately, I don't have any updates. I have been working nights and weekends. But, I have been thinking and planing some of my next steps on the car.

I also traded a friend a bunch of stuff for a car trailer, just need to paint it to make it look good.

Thanks,
Jon

Well I haven't had time to work on the car lately, been helping my Dad work on the house. Stuff like change the electrical panel out and a bunch of other things, so the roof can be redone before it starts raining again.

But, I have made a big purchase, I bought a set of Ridetech triple adjustable coilovers from Scott (coolwelder62). I called Scott up Sunday a week ago, figured out what I needed, and got the coilovers on Saturday, that's fast service. I got the 5.2" stroke for the front and 6.3" stroke for the rear.


I am trying to figure out what I want for springs, but at the moment I am thinking about 600 lb in the front as I will be running the amc engine. At the moment I have 200 lbs springs for the rear as I was going to mount the coil overs vertically, but now I am going to mount them on an angle. For the rear I'm thinking about picking some 250 lb springs.

I will have to say, these are really awesome looking. One nice thing I like is you get a lot for your money, ridetech sends you the bearing spacers and reducers for 5/8" and 1/2" bolts, and you get the remote reservoir mounting clamps. Other brands just give you the coilovers and you have to purchase all that stuff separately.

Here is some quick pictures with my lack of photography skills:
http://inlinethumb63.webshots.com/26...600x600Q85.jpg
http://inlinethumb48.webshots.com/37...600x600Q85.jpg

Thanks,
Jon

Nice purchase.

Thanks Bryce,

Have you got a chance to get to an autocross with your car yet?

Jon

:thumbsup: Jon,it was great to get a chance to visit w/you on the phone last sun.I was I really belive in the qualtiy of the ride tech shock's and chassis componet's.Thank's Scott M.

Not yet, I had a baby last month so my priorities have changed. I have been driving the car and enjoying it on the street.

Strength Calculations
 

Good evening,

Let me first say that I am extensively impressed with this build thread and all of the modifications. I have been wanting to build a Javelin just like this, and yours is one of inspiration..........very nice.

In a small effort to help make sure you build goes off well, I feel compelled to tell you that the above strength calculation is incorrect (I am a registered Professional Engineer and I perform these types of calculations for a living).

You are mixing your strength numbers when performing this calculation.

If you are trying to determine the load carrying capacity of your fastener in shear, you need to use the shear strength of the material, not the tensile strength. These are two entirely different measurements. The good thing is you can look on a website called MatWeb, find the material in question and it will give you nearly everything you need to know about that material, CTE, yield strength (tensile and shear), ultimate strength (tensile and shear), thermal conductivity......the list goes on.

The next thing you are missing is your factor of safety. You need to carry a factor of safety on your design to cover anything that you may not have thought about or considered. Generally, you can pick a factor of safety from 1.1X all the way up to 16X or more.........it just depends on how much risk you think you can take. For a suspension component, a factor of safety between 2 and 4 is a good place to start......the Carroll Smith's book that was mentioned earlier will have a better guide for selecting the factor of safety for your application.

As far as single shear vs. double shear is concerned, the shear strength of the fastener is what it is, when the fastener is in single shear, you are loading only one shear plane in the fastener, when the fastener is in double shear, you are loading two shear planes, thus doubling your strength of the fastener in shear.

While you are looking at shear strength of the fastener, keep in mind that the fastener is also stressed in bearing, you will need to make sure that the bearing surfaces don't have too much stress in them and causing plastic deformation of the fastener or the suspension components.

Additionally, the above calculations are all static calculations and do not apply to dynamic load cases. Sometimes you can increase your factor of safety if you are unable to properly calculate the dynamic stresses in a joint.

Dynamic stresses are important because they can cause failure by fatigue of the material, not by failure at the ultimate strength.

I'm rambling too much, I just wanted to make sure you taking everything into consideration for your build so something doesn't break on you and give you headaches later.

Again......very impressive and inspirational build.

Cheers,
Chris

Jon,I hope the shock install is going well for you.:thumbsup: Scott M.

Thank you very much for the information and the nice words. I am going to have to research this a bit more. I believe that the Lateral Dynamics 3 link uses 5/8" bolts with 5/8" hole and 3/4" shank, so at least I know that set up is tested and works.

Thanks again,
Jon

Shoot, I haven't touched the car in a few weeks but I have been working making some money. This weekend I am working Saturday and going to the NHRA finals on Sunday. Hopefully after we get a couple of these big jobs done I can get back working on the car in a couple weeks.

I hope Summit racing has some good coupons again like they did last year, I am thinking about getting a t-56, or if I can make up my mind on what front brakes I want to get.



Again Scott, congratulations on your latest build, the car came out great and it sounds like it performed really well for the lack of testing on it. I can't wait to see what the next build looks like.

Thanks,
Jon