Almost there on the steering wheel rim. I have some decisions to make on some of the finishing touches, but I have the critical stuff ready so the machining can proceed on a regular schedule. I had to know the shape of the landing areas for the spokes, as the block will be ready to start hogging out material between them soon. I also needed to figure out how I want the Black & White Ebony inlays as I assume it would be better to do that when there is as much material as possible. My designer/metal fabricator's method of doing an inlay will be to machine a pocket and a plug and stuff it in there!
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/...ldpics/288.jpg

I fattened the rim up a bit and ,obviously, pulled the spokes out to the other side of the rim. What I'm thinking is to trap the rim between the spokes and the aluminum rim. It will be snugly trapped, but never actually torqued down. I plan to use silicone rubber gaskets between the spoke and the wood, to give it a bit of wiggle room, without having a wiggly wheel. :lol: I modeled the gap in for that.

I airbrushed the worst offenders out, in Photoshop, but didn't get too carried away so you'll have to imagine continuity in the surfaces where it doesn't exist, here. There shouldn't be any abrupt changes in texture, except where the Maple burl and Ebony hardwoods meet. Where it's open on the back side of the landing will eventually be aluminum extending in from the aluminum rim section, with some type of fastener boss in it. I haven't decided what and how the fasteners will be yet.

I've been modeling almost non-stop since 10am... :confused59: :lostmarbles: :relax:

Posting the CAD rendering of the grille bar socket again, as some of the design cues are beginning to reverberate now. I waited a year to get to "my part" of this project - design; especially CAD. Eventually, I probably should contract a traditional automotive artist to visually bring all this stuff together and show what the "finished" vehicle will look like. I can do decent art, but prefer to spend my time actually developing actual parts and systems, and vehicles; and really just use it to communicate.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/...ldpics/264.jpg

I can't wait to share the some of the details, like the grille shell, an artistic swipe on the winged "cap" and motor meter, and the textures and finishes that will ice this little cake...

Gauge panel is ready to cut a mock-up unit. I need it to finish the layout of the steering, pedals, shifter, etc. One, I need to verify that it's going to fit where I am planning to put it. Two, I need to make sure I will be able to read it in a glance.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/...ldpics/289.jpg


I think the front is going to be CAD/CNC, cut from aluminum or brass billet - depending on what final finish I decide to go with. The rear cover will probably be carbon fiber. If so, the foam core I cut for the mock-up might also serve as a plug for creating a mold.

The elliptical bubbled glass lenses on either side of the digital screen are for warning lights. They will be split into two or three sections, internally, and have the appropriate color LED bulb for the designated warning signal. Turn signals, high beam, probably an electric drive "powered-up" light, etc.



After couple butt sessions in the car, I have come to the conclusion that I don't like the shifter in its current location. I thought about simply moving it over, into the passenger space a bit, but don't like that idea. I decided to research doing paddle shifters, with an electronic control box that would signal stepper motors to push and pull the shifter cables. A quick discussion with a friend in the community workshop, who recommended one of two other members, and it started to feel like one of their typical design-by-committee situations, with all the requisite opinions and preferences, ready to happen.

No way. Not for me, on my car. So, I did more research and found a way to control stepper motors manually with an encoder and a small circuit board - the stepper motor follows the encoder. I am 75% sure I am going for it. My current thinking is that the paddle shifters (right side = upshift, left side - down shift) will turn two encoders, via a ratchet mechanism, controlling two stepper motors, one for each cable. A simple arm on each stepper motor to push or pull the cable. Mix, try, adjust as necessary.

The "paddle shifters" themselves will be shift levers with matching ball knobs. That assembly will mount to what appears to be a separate shaft, just above the steering shaft, for that really old school three-on-the-tree look; with two levers. If what I have in my head works out, that shift column will be the Honda steering column, and height adjuster. By mounting it over the steering column it should push the adjuster far enough above the clutch pedal to not interfere with it. Should.

Yesterday I cut the foam housing core, and today, I cut the bezel. This is actually a test piece, cut from a couple glued-up pieces of .500" particle board, but it turned out so well, I may use it as a casting plug. There's an investment casting class spread over the next two Saturdays and the guy was going to take another shot at my bike's headlight for a demonstration piece. I am going to ask him about doing this piece instead of, or along with, the headlight housing. If that fails, I might just machine it from billet aluminum or brass.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/...ldpics/290.jpg

The small gouge was my biggest error of the day. I have been fighting a huge migraine all day, and keeping my focus was challenging to say the least. I was trying to make sure the machine was still zeroed, after another dumb mistake, and somehow got the Z axis origin off. I was trying to sit the end mill over a hole, stop the machine, and manually lower the end mill into the hole to check the origin. It lowered and plowed straight in to the bezel before I could get my fuzzy head to hit the stop button. Good thing it was particle board or my 0.0625" end mill would have been toast! Easy fix...

http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/...ldpics/291.jpg


It's going to mount to a custom little pedestal mount, based on what was going to be a gate plate for the electric drive system switches. Those levers are now destined to be part the column shifter, so I'll figure out something else for the electric drive switches. This will sit in a little cradle mount that swoops down off the dash bar. The dual pivots will allow me to point it at my eyes, and also towards a sexy little "navigator's" eyes, when I'm busy trying to keep the car aimed in the right direction. A new dash is in the works...
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/...ldpics/292.jpg

I wanted more room inside the housing for the digital panel, so I cut a .500" ring today, and glued it on. It also eliminated the need for me to machine foam out to fit the two pieces together.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/...ldpics/293.jpg


I showed the bezel to the casting guy today and he's up for trying an investment casting of it. His class is two sessions, so we'll make the plaster mold this Saturday. Over the next week it will air cure and then be fired in time for pouring the molten metal next Saturday.

Wait 'til you see the metal we pour... :)

Caveat - I hope it's a successful casting... :lol:

Phenomenal steering wheel! I have to say though -- that's a LOT of leverage to put on that one connection point.... I dunno about that... Looks awesome!

BTW -- I just went back and looked at the wheel with the three points of contact and I personally think it looks every bit as killer as the one point. It's a fantastic design.

Hey Greg! Thanks! :thumbsup:

I had to go back and look at the rendering to see what you meant - it'll have three spokes. I'm modeling, so just do one at 12 o'clock, duplicate it two more times when it's done, and rotate 'em all into place.

Thanks again. :D

Ah ha -- well the post did say "spokes" but there was the earlier post showing three --- and then this one with just the one spoke and I thought -- oh man -- that's a beautiful design but that wood is going to crack big time!

:thankyou: You made my night Greg, I need a beer now. :cheers:

:relax: It's still going to be fun to see if I can get the rim machined without it busting up into a hundred little pieces. :lmao: I have a friend in England who has a degree in woodworking, used to teach it, and makes incredible formed, carved, and bent, furniture. He's guiding the process of whittling that rim out, but makes it clear every step of the way that there is simply no guarantee.

So far, so incredibly good though...

Only one way to find out, and I only get to ride this merry-go-round once. :relax:

The electro-mechanical column shifter design is coming along quite well. I have the basics of how the mechanical system will ratchet, and turn the encoders to the proper degree for each gear, sorted out. As per my normal design process, I did all that in my head, with the assistance of a lot of chicken scratch sketching, and have now started modeling the ratchet and pawls, then the gears, then the housing - yes, I plan to design and make almost every piece (except for fasteners, etc)! It's going to mount right on top of the steering column, and have a clear cover, like a watch face, so you can see the mechanical commotion inside. Hmmm, I'd better make sure people can actually see it way down there, and under that impossibly low roof.

The goal is for it to feel sort of like cycling the bolt, or pulling the trigger, on a really expensive rifle when you pull the "paddles". Beside the mechanics to get the encoders to turn to the right positions, that's what all the design process has been about. Mostly all metal components inside, directly connected to your finger tips, and very smooth distinctive action, with well defined releases, catches, and stops. When you first pull, you'll feel it release the pawl for that direction, then feel yourself winding all the gears up to speed, then just as it begins to gain momentum, and inertia begins to take over, the pawl reconnects and brings it all to a dead stop - gear engaged! All that happens in about seven degrees of rotation for the shifter and ratchet/pawl, but there is a flurry of activity throughout the rest of the assembly.

I need to develop a feedback loop, to interrupt the encoder's signal to the steppers, if the transmission doesn't go in gear. My first thought is simply sensing the resistance - what happens when a CNC machine encounters something it can't move - the program crashes - but less code, and more simple electrical circuit. I think...

With enough patience, one can machine aluminum with a CNC router. I re-cut the center of the old gate plate to create a mount for the gauge panel. This machine is still having issues (big gouge in the center of the side) but this piece will work. It broke my end mill though. :warning: I purposely left room to hand finish it, so I'll blend that out in the process. I'm going to make a little pedestal mount to fit in the center that the gauge panel will sit on.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/...ldpics/294.jpg

Preliminary round of finishing work on the mount. I can't really finish it until I get the pedestal piece designed, machined, and fabricated, but I needed it smoothed out a bit so I can think through what I want it to look like.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/...ldpics/295.jpg

http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/...ldpics/296.jpg
I think it' going to be a ball on a stick, that will protrude through round openings on the sides of the housing a little. I think this base is going to mount to a steel hemisphere, on a ridiculous steel bracket that swoops out from the dash bar of the cage. The clamping mechanism will be a lever under the bottom of the hemisphere. Simple. :lol:

In keeping with the 1913 Open Runabout theme, I am foregoing a regular dash (even that panel I made will be replaced with less "dash"), and concentrating on highlighting all the levers, and pedals, and switches, that consumed early Ferd interiors. The challenge is to make it all speak the same language, and communicate a specific message. In this case that message is something like "coach-built, antique, driver's car".

To make good use of that massive-little curved I-beam armrest, since the shifter is moving up to the steering column (where I can actually reach it), I am fabricating a Todd style "big red button", emergency kill switch.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/...ldpics/297.jpg

It turns out to be the perfect location, and a very natural action. It's main components are the recycled former shift knob and horn button. The big heavy knob should mean less chance of missing it, and have the ability to tolerate any excessive force exerted in an emergency situation. It will manually disconnect the high voltage traction pack for the electric drive, via a cable and rear mounted switch; and most likely simultaneously disconnect the 12volt source to the ICE ignition system.

The inset photochop is one possible finishing idea - dark red anodized knob, with a black anodized bezel.

The pedestal design was quick and easy as it was just a quick sweep from the geometric cross pattern in the mount up into a spindle for the pivot ball. Now, I have to decide whether I want to machine it or cast it. Either way, there will be a machined mock-up or plug coming soon.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/...ldpics/298.jpg


http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/...ldpics/299.jpg
This little assembly is going to be a smorgasbord of textures and finishes. This isn't the final decision, just one of hundreds of possibilities. Here, I have a steel lower enclosure, aluminum base plate, nickel-plated pedestal, aluminum pivot-ball receptacles inside a carbon fiber housing, with a brushed aluminum-bronze bezel - whew! :willy: It's conditional, first, upon whether the aluminum-bronze casting works and/or possibly an aluminum-bronze cast plate for me to machine one. The carbon fiber housing is going to be produced with a special, proprietary, process/technique that I am working on. First tests were positive, and it's very unique.

Although I am going to great lengths to develop the aesthetic side of things, everything actually has a serious purpose. The main point, of course, is to benignly graft a digital gauge panel into an "antique" atmosphere. The elaborate pivot ball.pedestal mount will allow one-handed adjustment, to get that screen focused towards the driver's eyes. It can be angled, titled, and rotated, with one hand, and locked in place. The steel hemispherical lower enclosure will be a part of the clamping mechanism, and will also hide the plugs for connecting/syncing to the digital gauge panel.

I planed another .250" off the block, and opened the center hole to 4.5" (actually about .125" over that, off the machine - same as the last time). So far, it has been remarkably stable. One more of these operations, and I begin routing the pockets out between the spokes. This was a great camera shot that really brings out the grain. I can use it to begin plotting what three sections I want capture in the spoke landings.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/...ldpics/300.jpg

This is my chicken scratch overview of the interior. I'm using it to sort out the layout. This is a critical step in the transformation of Schism, from a bunch of handcrafted parts to a functional vehicle. What good is a functional vehicle that is uninspiring or, at worst, unbearable, to experience? That's one of the things that people take for granted, and that a person customizing a preexisting vehicle doesn't have to put so much effort into. I am developing a totally unique driving experience, so I am putting a lot of work and thought into what it will be.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/...ldpics/301.jpg

This isn't intended to be "proper" art, it's a tool to accomplish an end. I draw, design parts, sit in the car, imagine it in use, repeat, repeat.

It's all driver, like a race car. There's room for a small passenger, but no room for comfort. The little 10" steering wheel falls right into my "lap", and the gauge panel will be just within reach of my right hand, as all the switches will also be in that assembly. Everything, from the 1.5 turn lock-to-lock steering, to the short travel/close proximity pedals, to the sequential column shifters, to the "floating" little command/information center, must deliver maximum effectiveness with minimal effort. One, because there isn't enough room to move around; and two, because once I am cinched down in the 5-pt harnesses, I won't be able to move much anyway. It's also all designed with the ultimate goal of 1:1 power-to-weight in mind, so that when it, inevitably, gets out of control the atmosphere in the "cockpit" will be as serene as possible.

Tomorrow the casting guy gives the gauge panel bezel a shot. As mentioned, he said the investment mold came out nice (I haven't seen it yet), so it's just a matter of getting the molten aluminum bronze to fill it completely...

In case he's really in the mood to pour lots of molten metal, I cut the pedestal today. It came out so nice it deserves to be investment cast too, but a simple sand cast would work because it's (purposely) a tiny bit over-sized so I can hand fit the two pieces together.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/...ldpics/302.jpg
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/...ldpics/303.jpg

No luck again with the casting session. :bang: The reason I have been trying to machine plugs and cast them in aluminum is to demonstrate the capabilities of the Columbus Idea Foundry (CIF). That's a part of my deal with Alex. I get unlimited use of the facilities and equipment, in exchange for demonstrating and marketing the services and capabilities of the place. I'm going to have to bypass metal casting for a while until they get some of the bugs worked out of their system. I could simply machine the parts, but they don't have a conventional CNC mill in house and, while technically possible, machining most of my parts, from aluminum, on the ShopBot CNC router table isn't exactly feasible. Even if I can manage to get the parts off the machine, it's probably not something a person paying for machine time could justify...

Anyway, the bezel plug survived the water-based clay investment mold process with minimal damage. I repaired that, and have begun coating it with multiple layers of acrylic paint. The plan is to really detail the external surface, in preparation for some type of casting process. I could actually do a metallic-powder-filled resin cast of that part, and meet all the technical and aesthetic requirements; so, I am finishing it with that process in mind, but still exploring options. That would be something that can be replicated in-house at CIF, using the ShopBot, and their little bell jar vacuum chamber to degas the silicone rubber mix, for a good mold...
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/...ldpics/304.jpg
I'm more inclined to just cut the pedestal on the ShopBot as it's a small part that I don't want to take a chance on. A resin casting of that part could get too warm and go limp or break in the middle of driving... :lol:




After spending some time in the seat, trying to imagine driving Schism - and especially with the type of power I'm seeking - the gauge panel has evolved into a command/information center. Since moving will be difficult, and nearly impossible in the 5pt harness, I need all switches and controls at my fingertips. The most logical location for the switches is in the gauge panel.

This CAD rough sketch: shows the recesses for the three main switches (there will be more, kind of hidden), with the engine start button recessed deeper and slightly behind the main ignition switch location. I didn't go into detail with the CAD model because this will be mostly hand fabrication. The model was just to develop a few hard numbers to guide that process.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/...ldpics/305.jpg



First step was to attempt to seamlessly integrate a Honda S2000 engine start button into the antique panel. The ingredients:
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/...ldpics/306.jpg
The button is internally illuminated, though I'm not sure if the whole button glows red or just the text. If it doesn't, and if I don't like it as-is, I will eventually eventually cast a new button in red-tinted, clear, resin.


After a little manual mill work:
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/...ldpics/307.jpg


To accomplish this:
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/...ldpics/308.jpg


I didn't go for a super precise fit, as this is a chrome plated plastic switch in a steel housing. I hate buzzing and rattling, so I plan to mount it with black RTV, to keep it quiet. The steel is cut slightly oversize, and does not adhere rigidly to the shape of the button, for this reason; and to allow for final finishing (paint, powder coat, plating, etc). The two notches are the key, as they orient the switch, and a little bumper on the back engages the OEM spring.

I cut a foam mock-up of the steel base. I needed that to verify the dimensions for the next step in machining, which was to cut the diameter down, leaving a small section on the outside edge for the lip. The rest will be hand shaped. I'll probably also make a pattern off the foam mock-up base to mark the actual steel hemisphere for cutting the recesses.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/...ldpics/309.jpg

Incredible work and is truly art in motion. Subscribed and thanks for sharing your skills with all of us, it's very inspirational and motivating.

Your name rocks BTW :thumbsup:

Wow, thanks! :cheers: Those are encouraging words - helps one keep going through the inevitable burnout phases. :thumbsup:

I think I'm having fun now... :D



I could say the same about you! :lol: :thumbsup:

I kind of reluctantly entered my CAD workshop today, to resume work on the grille. The reluctance is because this is the kind of stuff I love doing, and hours, then days, have a way of disappearing while I'm in there. The ball-n-socket bar mounts are finished, and the bar cores can now be produced. I decided to machine them. When the ShopBot is working properly, I am able to get the accuracy I need and these will be cut from plastic, then laminated with carbon fiber, so I can keep the feed rates reasonable enough to not be on the machine forever.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/...ldpics/310.jpg

The reason I am bouncing around so much is to get all the major parts sorted out and underway, so that as the car goes together there won't be anything that completely stops progress in its tracks. As I work on assembling the car, I am able to identify the needs for each area, step back and address them, then move forward a few more steps toward a roller. No matter how much planning you do, some things just can't be determined until the car becomes more of a tangible reality; like sitting in the driver's seat and thinking through actually driving a car that has never existed before. It's a really fun, rewarding, process.

Next up, the grille shell. That's where the time-space warp can occur. I'm tying a rope to my ankle; if you don't hear from me - pull... :lol:

I think the shell is also going to be cut in plastic, and then cast in aluminum, then plated. The smallest radiuses in the sockets will require an 1/8th" ball-end mill, which means it's going to take a while to cut, even in softer materials. If necessary, I'll split it into four sections (for each half, eight total) and glue them together. First I'll try separating the socket machining operations from the rest of the shell, and tricking the ShopBot into getting the job done quickly. Again, the point is to try to develop processes Columbus Idea Foundry members can use, with the available equipment; and help market its offerings and capabilities.

Holds nose, and jumps... :willy:

Coming up for air... the basic shape has been sorted out - now it's time for details!
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/...ldpics/311.jpg

I have to cut all the socket openings (they're in there, ready to shine), add the lower mounts, and then begin sculpting the wings for the top mount. I cannot wait to share my Todd vision for the wings and motor meter.

I might have to rethink my original plan for bolting the front and rear halves together. It was supposed to have lots of bolts in counterbored holes, running around the shell; but I don't think I want to break up the shape now. I'm thinking about having fewer, exposed, external, bolt bosses on the inside between some of the sockets. I was also supposed to bend the whole deal, but I am going to try it straight first.

Don't let the CAD model fool you either, this thing is tiny. It's only 15-1/2" tall, and 1-1/2" deep.

I taught a welding class today and my intention, afterwards, was to go out for a little R-n-R. I decided to eat first, to finally sit for a few minutes, and then opened Rhino... Needless to say, I never went out, but I did get the socket openings cut. :rolleyes: :D
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/...ldpics/312.jpg

I've never seen so much work on one car.... Love how it's coming together.

:thankyou: Greg! :cheers:

I'm using this opportunity to run freely in creative design to simultaneously redefine the term "OCD"! :willy: :rofl:

[QUOTE=toddshotrods;452615]We tried kinking one on a hydraulic bending and stamping machine the metalworking guy in the complex has, but it mangled one of Amanda's perfectly machined ends, so we've resorted to a good ol' pie cut. The remaining gap is intentional, to be filled with weld; and a gusset plate will be added on the inside of the bend.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/...ldpics/243.jpg



I was concerned that I wasn't going to like these pieces, but really do, now that I see them on the car. I wasn't so sure I was going to like the round tubing in the mix of stamped, cast, and fabricated steel parts.

[QUOTE]

Just a thought... why not make these control arm struts using the I-beam style construction like the (former) shifter mount? That could be a more graceful shape, match the look of the LCA and fit the overall design theme.

Hey droptop! Thanks, I did consider a fabricated strut, either I-beam like the lowers or boxed sheet metal like the uppers (will ultimately be), and haven't ruled it out. I am curious to see if I can make the tubular struts look right. Basically, just challenging myself. If it doesn't work, I will tuck my tail, and start fabricating... :lol:

Some things on this project are hard to communicate as there was never a comprehensive set of art renderings. Being the owner and builder, I can see everything in my head clearly, so I just do enough art to communicate job tasks to the Team members, and verify some ideas before investing tons of time in them. Most are just byproducts of working so much in CAD. The goal for those tubular struts is to add enough gusseting and blending that they begin to take on the cast look, but still tie into the caged race theme thing.

Again, that's the bright idea - if it doesn't work, I'll be the chump with the tail stuck up his... :walkingdog: :rofl:

Time to spread my wings. :)
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/...ldpics/313.jpg

The plan is to have the shell ready to cut a test/mock-up piece this week. I need it on the actual car to develop the hard numbers for modeling the wings and motor meter.

I understand how the mind's eye thing works. I have a warehouse full of projects and ideas stored in the back of my mind with the mothballs, waiting for time and budget.

Almost done with the shell! I have a little clean up work to do on the back of each half, around the sockets, but it's pretty much there. I ran it through the programming software and the machine times are reasonable with a 0.125" ball end mill, so cutting the plugs will work as intended. The funny thing about this is it's probably the only part on the entire car that has no functional aspect, but I have an incredible amount of time invested in it, with a longgg way to go. Along with what's left of the T-bucket body, it's the signature piece that identifies the car (also identifying the specific vintage), so it's critical to helping all those other functional parts come together aesthetically, as a sum, a whole, a car... :rolleyes: :lostmarbles:
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/...ldpics/314.jpg

I decided on four, large, heavily stylized,bolt bosses to clamp it together; and had a little fun with the upper mesh bars, bending them around the bosses. Those will probably have to be printed, as they have too many angles to machine (possible, but not practical). If the bolt bosses look huge to you, remember how tiny the whole thing is, and the fact that it's between your knees and ankles on the car.

http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/...ldpics/315.jpg


Today, I am cutting wood mock-ups of the front and back halves of the shell - without the sockets - to test it on the car, and develop the hard numbers for the wings and motor meter.

I still need to do some minor trimming and need socket head bolts for it, but a few strips of tape allow a peek at Schism's new mug.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/...ldpics/316.jpg
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/...ldpics/317.jpg
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/...ldpics/318.jpg

Told you it was tiny! It's almost lost in the midst of all the electric drive stuff - just enough to give a clue what you're looking at.

Roll Royce Wraith concept "Spirit of Ecstasy" - Inspiration.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/...s/misc/004.jpg

Goal: not quite so ethereal, but not "normal" either - whatever that word means.



I can't believe how much time I have in this piece already! I have been working on it, almost none stop, since around 10 o'clock this morning! Plus, all the other days I worked on it...

Meet the "Spirit of OCD" :lostmarbles:
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/...ldpics/319.jpg

This piece actually does have a function - it is the grossly over-done upper "radiator support", for the grille that has no real function. :rolleyes:

One, this is just a rough-in. From here I have to decide how much detail and precision I want to put in the model, and how much I want to do by hand. I could actually cut this, as is, and do all the detailing by hand, as most of what needs work are places where material would be removed.

Two, keep in mind it's really tiny. Overall dimensions of the "bird" are about 5.625" long, 2" tall, and 3.5" wide. It could fit in the palm of a man's hand. The Bat-T logo "motor meter" is around 1.375" in diameter. It will be interesting to see if people even notice it on first glance, in midst of the electric drive's chains, sprockets, and diff; and all the exposed, sculptured, suspension stuff. I planned it to be one of the things, with incredible attention to detail, you "find" in the midst of all the other OCD things. :willy:

The hood(less) molding will sweep back to the cowl, with a slight curve and tapering to kind of a pointer type point; and will be inset into the body. I'm working on plans and processes to machine that, including the Bat-T logo in the end, on the ShopBot from aluminum bar stock. There's a neat texturing featuring that I would like to use in the background areas around, and inside, the "T", so that when it's plated the T pops out.

I am also debating finishes. Both pieces will be plated, and slightly contrasting. Maybe something like brushed and polished nickel - plus, the grille shell will be plated or anodized, so all this has to work together.

I decided to just add a couple feature lines in the wings, to add a little motion to it, and the boss/counter bore for the motor meter mounting bolt, and do the rest of the detail work by hand. I need to see it on the car to determine just how much detail I want in it. I'm going to cut it tomorrow, or early next week.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/...ldpics/320.jpg

The larger the end mill the less detailed the feature lines will be. I don't really want a lot, just a subtle hint; and I'll blend the edges a bit by hand, after I see it cut.

Impressive Thread!

:thankyou: rtwind!

For nearly a year, I've been wrestling with the decision on whether Schism is a race car with the attention to detail normally seen in fine art, or a fully functional artistic depiction of a race car. Subtle difference, but it has huge implications on how all these parts come together, and how far we ultimately go with each one of them.

I am leaning really heavily towards the insanely detailed race car. :yes: Curt, my engine guy, and I were discussing this last night over beers. I've been kind of migrating that way since I started assembling it, as that's just what it feels like it wants to be, when it grows up. :lol: The final straw that is really pushing it in that direction is I finally made some creative breakthroughs with my electric motorcycle project that will allow it to carry more of the art burden, freeing Schism to follow its own course.

Put in music/movie terms, the theme song in its trailer seems to feature an overdriven Stratocaster blazing through a stack of Marshalls...:rockin:

I epoxied a couple pieces of modeling board together...
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/...ldpics/321.jpg

...and started whittling;
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/...ldpics/322.jpg

until I ended up with this:
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/...ldpics/323.jpg

The broken wing tips are because I live in CAD, and forget sometimes that what is possible in my world is not always feasible here on Earth. :lostmarbles: They were quite literally paper thin, and couldn't stand up to the violence and terror of a carbide end mill spinning at 1y0K. I had the ShopBot running really gentle and slow too, but the just blew away into the piles of chips; literally. I will round them off, by hand, from where they are.

You might also have noticed that the feature lines in the wings are just very lightly cut. I chose a 0.375" ball end mill that gave me all the detail I needed in the whole piece, but wouldn't sink into these too deep. From here, I will experiment, by hand, using the cuts as templates until I find what I'm looking for.

As mentioned, it's tiny and can be easily lost against the busy backdrop of drivetrain components.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/...ldpics/324.jpg
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/...ldpics/325.jpg

A strip of wood gives a clue of how the molding, along with the front cage tubes, will create the image of a hood; when there is none. This is the first time I've ever done a project like this. Normally I would start with a hood and concentrate on eliminating everything possible to make sure all you see are its lines. With Schism, it's the exact opposite - I have to keep strategically adding things until it paints the right picture. Now that I'm getting used to it, it's kind of natural because it's like drawing. The right lines, here and there, and the mind starts to see curves and reflections, and three-dimensional shapes that aren't on the paper.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/...ldpics/326.jpg

I cut the motor meter/hood trim piece yesterday, but was too sleepy to post it by the time I finished (late last night). The process I would like to pursue for realizing all these little parts is pretty intense, but it will yield awesome results. After the plugs are detailed and finished, I want to make silicone rubber molds of them, then cast them in wax, for lost wax metal casting.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/...ldpics/327.jpg
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/...ldpics/328.jpg


I still need to create the recess in the firewall that will let the back drop into place, and the motor meter to fit into the wings properly. I cut the motor meter section from modeling board, and the trim section from a piece of oak wood. I wanted the surface quality the modeling board provides for the motor meter and the toughness the oak provides for the long, thin, trim piece; so I can work on it and test fit as much as needed, without concern of breaking it. It was also good practice in machining wood for the steering wheel.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/...ldpics/329.jpg