Yep. Jason said he'd give me a few pointers for the valvetrain. I may have him checkout the heads. All the new $4K worth of EFI wiring, ecu, and new fuel system is mounted and routed in the car and I thought it would best to just chassis dyno and tune it in the car with all that stuff, my full exhaust, my cold air setup I plan to make for the cowl hood, etc.. Besides, I enjoy working on engines(especially one like this) so this will give me part of the build to enjoy. I'm just happy I can let someone like Jason nail down the short block. That'll give me a lot of confidence in the motor.

Definitely let him check the camshaft for lobe accuracy. Are you running a 4/7 swap? I'd also let him check your valve job, guide clearance, decks, chamber volume, installed height, and spring pressures. You want to make sure your quench is right. A strong short block is at the mercy of a weak valve train. :D It's on in the details.

Sounds like a good plan to me. It's going to be fun as hell.

Chris

Looks like you're well ahead of DG on schedule and potential power output. :thumbsup:

Maybe I missed it but what route did you go for heads?

Dyno day will be exciting.

Chris,
great job on the build… very detailed planning, and well executed. That engine will look great under the hood! I’m interested to see your design for the cold air intake set up.

For what it’s worth, I just bought a T56 Magnum from Hurst (took delivery last week) and it did come with detailed installation instructions for the transmission, wiring, and kit components… but no OEM info from Tremec.

:thumbsup:

Chris, thats some funny $h!t right there, LOL. I hear Greg is holding a seminar on Friday at GNRS with guess appearance from Roger. :poke:

That seminar is gold right there. :lol:

Thanks Dale. :thumbsup: For my MPFI I'm running a carb-style throttle body, so I'll be using the standard 14" air filter element with the drop down base(and offset to the passenger side due to the BBC motor mounts). I'm planning to use something similar to a large cake pan to create an enclosure for the filter that seals against the cowl hood. That way the filter is only pulling in air from the outside. I made one before but it was a little too small and didn't give enough room for the air filter to breathe properly. I've heard that an EFI system can get thrown off when the electric fans come on and start pushing hot air into the air filter, so I wanted to avoid that scenario. The only bad thing about this type of cold air setup is that it covers a lot of the engine. Maybe for car shows where the engine is on display I'll just remove it and run the air filter only.

Hey Rob! Yep, I'm trying to keep up with you guys and your dyno war. :lol: I got a lot of great advice from folks on the heads(thanks!) and some engine builders also and I decided to go with the Brodix Race Rite Ovals(270). Folks have been raving about their flow capabilities given the runner size so I should get the flow I'm looking for and have the great throttle response also. I'm getting the CNC'd bowls option and having the .700 lift springs put on them. They should arrive in about 2 weeks. I'll add them to the stack-o-parts in the garage. Can't wait for late February when I start installing this stuff into the car and see it in the engine bay.

Yep, he's checking the cam. No 4/7 swap. I'll do as much as I can afford with the heads. Money is spiraling out of control on this and I'm basically going broke along with the other stuff my wife and I are trying to accomplish in the kids department. I have to draw the line or else I start to get angry/frustrated about it and then it takes the fun out of it.

Thanks Ron. I think the pic of it all assembled and sitting in my engine bay is going to look a whole lot better. :lol:

Thanks, much appreciated. :thumbsup: I sure hope it turns out killer or else there may actually be a death involved.

Chris, I am excited for you, and I understand about the spiralling money thing. Trying to build these thing like we want them vs. what the whole family can afford is always a little different.

Wish I could have seen it at RTTC in Febuary.

Shortblock part numbers, specs, and labor for those who like details:

GM ZL1 Block - new version of block from GM, 12370850
Pistons - 4.280 bore - SRP Forged, 26cc dome, 212142-8
Callies Compstar Crank - 4.250 stroke, internal balance, 2-piece seal, 2.2" rod journ, BBP425-CS
Callies H-beam Rods - 6.385 inch length, H-beam, ARP 2000 fasteners included, CSB6385ES3B9AH
Piston Rings - JE, Plasma-moly, 4.280 in. Bore, 1/16 in. 1/16 in., 3/16 in, S100S8-42805
Cam - Gen VI step-nose custom grind, billet steel core with cast gear, Comp Cams custom
Timing Chain Set - Comp Cams double roller, billet, key adjustable, Gen VI, 7101
Cam retention plate and screws - for Gen VI cam in Gen IV block (2) 14093637, 10168501
Timing Chain cover - Milodon 1-piece aluminum, Gen IV, 14855
Timing Chain cover seal and gaskets - Mr. Gasket, MRG-17, MRG-4794G
Harmonic Balancer/Dampener - ATI (internal balance), 917060
Harmonic Balance Bolt - ARP, 135-2501
Road Racing Oil Pan - Milodon 31555
Dipstick - Milodon flex stainless, 22010, Streetside
Oil pump pickup - Milodon, 18465
Oil Pump - Melling High Volume M77HV
Oil Pump shaft - ARP, 135-7901
Oil Pan gasket - Mr. Gasket one piece MRG-6663G
Cam bearings: Dart coated
Valley screen kit: Pettis BBC-multi
Oil filter pad plug material: aluminum
Oil filter adapter: GMPP
Windage tray: Milodon
Windage tray mount spacer material / bolts
Oil pump stud: ARP
Rear main seal: Fel-Pro viton
Timing pointer: ATI billet

Specs, compression ratio:
Bore 4.28
Stroke 4.25
Rod Length 6.385
Pistom Dome CC -26
Head CC 119
Estimated Compression Ratio 10.44

Labor (Incomplele list. Some things will be added on as we go.)
ROTATING ASSEMBLY
hone pin bores: pistons <size adjust>
hone pin bores: rods <size adjust>
balance rotating assembly: internal
detail piston domes

BLOCK
align hone mains w/studs <size adjust>
surface / index / set deck heights
bore & chamfer cylinders
radius cylinder bottoms
performance finish hone cylinders w/plate & mains
machine / install valley screen kit: bolt in multi type
machine block for rot assy: first setup & cut
machine cooling system holes in decks
detail casting
measure lifter bores, hone

ASSEMBLY
install / fit standard slider cam bearings
machine timing cover for pointer fit
fab oil filter pad plugs & install
machine for countersink bolt in oil pump
fab windage tray mount spacers
hone damper hub
blueprint / assemble: performance short block

You're right on the money about that balancing act. :thumbsup: Yah, I wish I could have made to RTTC also with the car, but that's just not in the schedule. Maybe Del Mar Goodguys, but I'm not sure I'll have it dialed in and squared away yet for the AutoX. We'll see. I'll be attending RTTC though as a spectator(again) and look forward to seeing everyone and getting that injection of inspiration.

That's the Yogi Berra school of thought: "Ninety percent of this game is half mental." :lol:

Multi quotes
 

Hey Chris, I see you already saw the exert from Greg seminar "Do not multi- quote as it will bring your post count down" :lol:

That's gold right there!

:lol: I'm learning from the pro's. The higher the post count in my thread, the better I feel about myself. That's so important to me.

Chris, love the motor parts shot. That is man jewelry right there. Good luck with the build. :thumbsup:

This site should always have at least one ZL-1 powered '69 Camaro active build thread going on at all times. It's important for mens health, like one of the essential food groups or sumthin'. :unibrow:

Whats the lbs on the ZL1 compaired to a cast 454? just the block

110 vs. 260

You make a good point, a very good point. :D

Well maybe I should change that thread to ZL1 vs Sideoiler :) since DG ain't getting any closer to actually running against me:mock:

I think all us mere mortals know that feeling :faint: Seeing some of the builds on here makes it even worse sometimes. You see stuff you just want to do but you have to slow down and think do I really need that? Wouldn't it be better to actually get it on the road and still have $$ to fuel it up.:D

Chris, that makes a whole bunch of us feel a lot better seeing that whole pile of parts... I mean $... on your floor. :lol:

Yep, when you're knee deep in sh_t, it helps when you look over and there's somebody else there with you. :lol: I got "mo' money" pics coming shortly so these support sessions will continue. :thumbsup:

Well, if we can agree upon a chassis dyno to engine dyno conversion percentage then you can plug me into that battle also. :) I might be lower on the HP but my TQ numbers should be solid.

http://www.69camaroproject.com/Share...lock_parts.jpg[/QUOTE]

Cha Ching.

You've been Lat G'd Chris---LOL--

D

:lol: Yah, no kidding. I owe you a phone call brother! Want to continue that conversation we were having. :thumbsup:

1. Running on a chassis Dyno is proof the car is drive able. That type of in your face taunting really isn't proper etiquette Chris. Nobody likes a show off :guns:

2. DG is a little frail right now. Having two big blocks school him on torque production ain't cool; So....... :_paranoid I think we need to make it happen :lmao:

3. Good choice on Pettis he builds a lot of fast stuff(Fords)

:cheers: :cheers:

1. :lol: Well, it sounds good on paper. Hopefully it survives the dyno and you don't see a Budnik wheel rolling out of the dyno garage in the video.

2. When DG gets his sh_t together, he's gonna bring it. He might be loaded up on metamucil and stool softener when that finally happens, but still, I think I'll tread lightly with him.

3. He works on Fords too? Hmmm...I guess he needs the business. Maybe I'll pitch in a little extra at payment time.

All jokes aside, I like Fords too, so that'll be the last jab you'll here from me about Fords. I'm an 'equal opportunity' motor head. I'll let others rib you about that.

Thanks Todd!

I'll take yours over those high strung race engines anyday without that much less power. You'll just turn the key and listen to her purr from stone cold. It won't piss down it's own throat on a hot day. While they are lashing valves, you'll be kicking back in your lawn chair enjoying a beer. :relax: After their 2nd or 3rd rebuild you'll be changing the oil for the fifth or sixth time. :lol:

You should be selling engines Todd. :lol: I think I'm going to print that out and hang it up in my garage. I'll have an extra lawn chair and a few cold ones there for you also my friend. :cheers:

He speaketh thy truth.

Isn't it great to see another one of these come together? I am really curious how much average TQ this one will make from 2500 on up with that cam. It should be stout.

D

Maybe that's true about the little Chevy that still doesn't run but my motor is way mild. Look at the specs on my cam it's only 660 lift and duration @ .050 is only 258/270 not allot for 496 ci. Mine idles at 800 rpm. I admit it is soft down low.... only 559ft lbs of torque @ 3000rpm. :lmao:

Chris, yours should be a creampuff with the EFI and Hydro cam. Maybe too much of a creampuff :P

For a first gen you have picked the best power source, with that I agree.:D

:cheers:

This is the kind of rambling that occurs once you get out of the game for awhile. :bitchslap:

Chris I'm sensing a trend, you may need these to navigate your thread in the future.
http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/...FL._AA300_.jpg

When the words mechanical and 270 duration enter the conversation, the word mild shouldn't be used. :lol:

Hey, I'm simply saying that Chris won't need a full time mechanic riding shotgun, that's all. :lmao:

:lol: I've been wearing those to work lately so I'll just keep them on when I hop online. :thumbsup:

I'm bringing a street engine to a racing fight here, and I think DG's and Rob's engines are kickass for what they're intended for, so I think I'll just lay low on this one and try to dodge the crossfire.

I look forward to when we can all get together again and lay down some rubber. That actually goes for quite a number of Cali folks here on the board. Doug, Matt, Chad, Ron, Stig, Dave, Curtis, Rob, we gotta get our friggin cars on the road and do some SoCal/NorCal/NV cruising and events together. Too many of us have been off the road for too long. Todd, it ain't the same without an active build thread from you here either. Hope you're recharging your batteries and gathering up a war plan over there in Vegas. :cheers: