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-   -   70 Chevelle performance project (https://www.lateral-g.net/forums/showthread.php?t=39631)

Steve Chryssos 09-26-2013 10:51 AM

Very nice Chevelle. Lots of innovative tweaks like the boxing plates.

Che70velle 09-26-2013 06:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by streetfytr68 (Post 507164)
Very nice Chevelle. Lots of innovative tweaks like the boxing plates.

Thanks Steve! That means a lot to me, coming from you.

HEEP 03-17-2014 11:24 AM

Scott,
Do you realize that it is now 2014? Just wondering.:relax: :underchair: :poke:

Che70velle 03-17-2014 04:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HEEP (Post 542044)
Scott,
Do you realize that it is now 2014? Just wondering.:relax: :underchair: :poke:

Bill, I had a very busy fall and winter, which is good for the Chevelle account, but it also means that I was wasn't able to get much done. I got my entire fuel system for myself for Christmas, and in the last 3 weeks I have purchased everything else I needed to complete the car minus gauges, and a new windshield. I finished all my gap work, and body work this past weekend, which I've worked on every chance I got, this winter. I'm currently wiring the car, and hope to start the junker this weekend. If that goes well, then it's disassemble, paint, and then reassembly. I should drive this thing this summer. I have seen the ups guy so much lately, were now good friends. Lol.

So, how is yours coming along?

HEEP 03-17-2014 04:47 PM

Scott, you have been busy. Did you forget that we love pictures? Well, sounds like you have your hands full. can't wait to see how things are coming along.

so what are you using to wire the car? Painless? AAW? I'm still torn on who to use. Especially when Stielow starts posting up what he is using now.

As for mine, very slow. I did get the front end installed. I'll get pics posted up later this week. Right now, we are in the midst of Soccer season. My weekends are taken up.

Che70velle 03-17-2014 04:55 PM

Yeah, I gotcha. Baseball started last Saturday for us. I went with AAW, and a PSI engine harness. I'm building my own battery relocate kit for the trunk. I have a friend with a killer 68' camaro, who put a Ron Francis wiring kit in his car. He placed the fuse block in the trunk, and it's pretty trick. I love marks builds, but he has to better himself every build. That gets expensive. Me, I'd run out of ideas, after that many chevelle's. Pics coming soon!

HEEP 03-17-2014 05:06 PM

Scott,
So which AAW kit? Yes, Mark has to be running out of ideas. But I am sure he will not disappoint us in the future. I have no idea where he comes up with this stuff. However, he does push us, or at least me. Just don't have the money to spend like that.

So are you mounting yours in the trunk also?

WSSix 03-17-2014 05:38 PM

Glad to know you've made good progress on the Chevelle, Scott. Good luck finishing the home stretch.

Che70velle 03-17-2014 06:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HEEP (Post 542104)
Scott,
So which AAW kit? Yes, Mark has to be running out of ideas. But I am sure he will not disappoint us in the future. I have no idea where he comes up with this stuff. However, he does push us, or at least me. Just don't have the money to spend like that.

So are you mounting yours in the trunk also?

I'm using the AAW Classic Update kit. I bought mine through Summit, but MCB has it listed for the same price. My firewall is stock, so I'm putting it up front. Only thing in my trunk, which will be Rhinolined, is my battery, sub box, and an amp.

Che70velle 03-17-2014 06:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WSSix (Post 542111)
Glad to know you've made good progress on the Chevelle, Scott. Good luck finishing the home stretch.

Thanks Trey. You still in Kansas?

214Chevy 03-17-2014 07:21 PM

Pics or it didn't happen. :goggles: You know the rules. :stirthepot:

Che70velle 06-30-2014 08:31 PM

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Ok, so a lot of parts purchasing has taken place in the last 6 months. I THINK I only need to pick up my gauges, and a steering wheel. Lol, I should have never posted that, as we all know how just when you think your done, it's time to order more stuff.
Anyhow, I have some progress pics for anyone who cares about this pile. My painter, who has always done my show stuff in the past, gave me an ultimatum.
He told me no more "parts", or shells, or cabs, or beds. He's done with going through all that effort, and I don't blame him, as many of you know how much work it is to pull off a nice paint job. BUT, he's good. REAL good, so I'm gonna take him the car assembled, and he's gonna spray it. He wants it running and driving also. He told me he ain't pushing any more cars around his place. I'm cool with that. I've never done one this way, but there's a first time for everything. I have already painted the firewall/cowl, door jambs, and trunk jamb. I will paint the inner fenders, the inside of the fenders, bottom of the hood, bottom of the decklid, etc.
I was planning on leaving my tunnel exposed, painted the body color, but now I'm leaning toward covering it with maybe something other than carpet? I dunno. I'm just trying to build something a little different. I have an august 1st appointment with my painter, so I have a month to get the car completely assembled and drivable. It's been a busy few evenings for me.
I lost a lot of time this spring fooling around with GM electronics trying to get the car running during the SECOND mock up. I ended up going with Mast electronics, and I'm glad I did. The car sounds great through flowmaster mufflers.

Che70velle 06-30-2014 08:35 PM

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More pics...

Che70velle 06-30-2014 08:37 PM

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Another...

Che70velle 06-30-2014 08:38 PM

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One more...

GregWeld 06-30-2014 08:43 PM

Quit posting and start wrenchin'! August is coming up fast.... WOW.... you got a lot of work to do.

Rick D 07-01-2014 05:04 AM

Looks great Scott, but I'm not following on the car being together to paint?? When ever I get a car in for paint if I'm not the one doing all the metal and body work I want it together but I pull it all part after final blocking to paint.
Tell him push a car around is half the fun!!! :sarcasm_smiley:

WSSix 07-01-2014 05:56 PM

Good luck, Scott! Glad to see it's coming together.

Che70velle 07-02-2014 06:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GregWeld (Post 558142)
Quit posting and start wrenchin'! August is coming up fast.... WOW.... you got a lot of work to do.

Tell me about it! What I have going for me is that I've had this car together two different times. It's gapped and fitted, so that should go quickly once I've sprayed the back and inside of everything. It won't have any interior stuff installed except a seat. I'll throw in just enough harness to run the car and get it to him. Brakes are now almost finished...

Che70velle 07-02-2014 06:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rick D (Post 558178)
Looks great Scott, but I'm not following on the car being together to paint?? When ever I get a car in for paint if I'm not the one doing all the metal and body work I want it together but I pull it all part after final blocking to paint.
Tell him push a car around is half the fun!!! :sarcasm_smiley:

Rick I hear you. It's not the way we've done things in the past, but I trust him. He did a 69' camaro this way 6 months ago, and it turned out pretty nice. He's wrapping up a Chevelle right now, then I'm next. I will keep you guys updated.

Che70velle 07-02-2014 06:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WSSix (Post 558315)
Good luck, Scott! Glad to see it's coming together.

Thanks a Trey! I hope you don't wait as long as I did to post updates in your thread. :sarcasm_smiley:

WSSix 07-02-2014 02:33 PM

:D I have a very good reason no work and thus no updates have occurred with my build. It will be a few more months before I can work on it again too. I'm just glad I have my scooter play around on in the mean time.

novaboy7272 07-04-2014 10:25 AM

http://i1278.photobucket.com/albums/...ps5705fc05.jpg


Hey Scott. Your build is awesome and a great inspiration. I have a 69 Chevelle and wanted to do the same type of thing you did to your frame. Did you self bend all the tubing or do you know of a kit i could get. Again, the build looks wicked. Keep up the great work. :thumbsup:

-Andy

Che70velle 07-05-2014 07:57 AM

Andy I bent everything myself. Both new crossmembers, and the tubes running front to back, are coped into the frame, meaning I used a holesaw the size of the tube, and the new tubes go into the frame, and are welded from both sides. I have changed the mid-crossmember, the one that turns up and just touches the floor in front of the rear seat. It has been cut out and replaced with 1 1/2" x 1/2" plate that now turns down and goes below the driveshaft. I thought that during mock up my mufflers would fit behind the one that I made first, but no dice. Now the mufflers are sitting on top of the new flat crossmember. I'll try to find a new picture...
I know that there are kits out there, but you'll have to do some research. Shoot just order a chassis from Roadster Shop and get it over with. :ohsnap:
Thanks for the props!

Ron in SoCal 07-05-2014 08:21 AM

Tyler at HPI makes a kit I believe.

novaboy7272 07-05-2014 01:02 PM

Thanks Scott (and Ron),

I'll do some research on kits. But i do have a welding questions. I've only welded with my Mig thus far in my restoration/rebuilding experience. I've used it for all of the body work i've done, and even welding parts of the frame on my Chevelle and my old nova (which is sold now). However, attempting what you've don with your frame seems like strength and taking your time with the welds is important. I know i've done what i've thought to be "good strong welds" with my Mig on thick steel before, but do you suggest getting a Tig for this type of frame fabrication? Just wondering. Thanks again for the help and keep the pictures coming. :welder:

WSSix 07-05-2014 01:23 PM

A good 110v mig will do just fine, Andy.

novaboy7272 07-05-2014 02:26 PM

Awesome, thanks Trey. Didn't want to have to wait to buy a Tig, but i was willing if it was really that much more preferred.

GregWeld 07-05-2014 04:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by novaboy7272 (Post 558877)
Awesome, thanks Trey. Didn't want to have to wait to buy a Tig, but i was willing if it was really that much more preferred.


A good weld is a good weld... the TIG is better for doing fine sheet metal work... in the hands of a skilled welder. And TIG is really for the guy that wants to work with Stainless and Aluminum as well as mild steel (although you can weld both with the right MIG setup).

A TIG bead is easier to clean up than a MIG bead - but if you're not building a RIDLER car - who cares..

The key to either is not to make a cold weld with little or no penetration. I see many welds done and shown on this website that I wouldn't want to drive or ride in the car... and any experienced welder can see what I'm talking about.

Che70velle 07-05-2014 10:00 PM

Andy I currently do all my welding with a huge Miller mig setup. I do plan on getting a tig in the future, as Greg said, for sheetmetal work. I took metal fabrication classes, and was taught how to make sure welds penetrate correctly. I have some ugly welds on this chassis, but they are sound.

raustinss 07-06-2014 06:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GregWeld (Post 558885)
A good weld is a good weld... the TIG is better for doing fine sheet metal work... in the hands of a skilled welder. And TIG is really for the guy that wants to work with Stainless and Aluminum as well as mild steel (although you can weld both with the right MIG setup).

A TIG bead is easier to clean up than a MIG bead - but if you're not building a RIDLER car - who cares..

The key to either is not to make a cold weld with little or no penetration. I see many welds done and shown on this website that I wouldn't want to drive or ride in the car... and any experienced welder can see what I'm talking about.


Here here finally someone else says it. I've thought that for years and seen lots of questionable welds on here and pro-touring.com now it's just because I fab and weld all day for work. so yes I'm picky but still can't agree more Greg

Che70velle 07-06-2014 08:03 PM

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Brakes are done and bled. Clutch is bled...what a pain. I overlooked the fact that the slaves bleeder was up in the tunnel. I had to fab a wrench to even get to it, and then I couldn't get my bleeder tool on it, so had to do it old school. Put fuel tank back in next, and car will be a radiator away from moving under its own power.

Che70velle 07-06-2014 08:10 PM

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I decided to put my clutch master here, instead of going with the "kit" that everybody runs. It was tricky, as it just misses my fuse block under the dash, yet is just below the cowl under the dash also. The angle it's at is no problem, as there will always be plenty of fluid in the reservoir. I've done one like this in the past with no problems, and yep, the fender will fit with no problems also.

Che70velle 07-06-2014 08:12 PM

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More pics...

Che70velle 07-06-2014 08:14 PM

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Another...

Che70velle 07-06-2014 08:16 PM

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How about a rear view...
My apologies for my grainy ipad pics.

Che70velle 07-06-2014 08:19 PM

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Another...

Che70velle 07-06-2014 08:21 PM

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Looking back from tranny shot...

HEEP 07-06-2014 09:56 PM

Finally, pictures. That is always the best way to post. Everything is looking good. Kind of confused on the slave, but hey, if it is working then run it.

Love how everything is tucked up above the bottom of the frame. Great job. Can't wait to see the vids of it running, and painted, and running.

novaboy7272 07-07-2014 08:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GregWeld (Post 558885)
A good weld is a good weld... the TIG is better for doing fine sheet metal work... in the hands of a skilled welder. And TIG is really for the guy that wants to work with Stainless and Aluminum as well as mild steel (although you can weld both with the right MIG setup).

A TIG bead is easier to clean up than a MIG bead - but if you're not building a RIDLER car - who cares..

The key to either is not to make a cold weld with little or no penetration. I see many welds done and shown on this website that I wouldn't want to drive or ride in the car... and any experienced welder can see what I'm talking about.



Thanks GregWeld and Trey again for the advise. I have a Millermatic 110v and at my skill level i can already understand what a nonpenetrated weld looks like. That gives me more confidence. New pics look sweet Trey.


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