Ya, lots of communication. I was just looking for info from guys that have run the products and what has or hasn't worked for them. I wasn't knocking the experts.

Yes, what Tim said. I called Tobin and he talked me down from the rigid caliper Z06 style. I couldn't be happier with my C6 Z51's, with upgraded DBA rotors and Hawk HP+ pads. I chose manual and love the "feel" of them.
Of the 7 or 8 autocrosses I did last year, I think I only locked my fronts one time at Indy. Very easy to modulate the manual pedal in my opinion.
FWIW, I have not felt knockback at all with a solid axle and the floating calipers.

Thanks. I emailed him last night night and will follow up on Monday. I did a little research last night on the DBA rotor. How do you think it helps? Thanks for the info, I really appreciate it.

Cal

I'm running Kore3 C5 "big brake" with 12.8" DBA, Hawk HP+ and Wilwood 7/8" manual master and love them. I prefer the manual feel due to my motorcycle background. DBA rotor isn't magical, just good fundamentals - 1.25" thick, good cooling vanes, not drill so less chance for stress cracking. IMO I have more brake than my front 245/40/18 NT05's can handle. Call Tobin, he'll spend the time and ask the right questions required to deliver brakes that meet your needs. :thumbsup:

Sieg nailed it. Not magic, just better quality castings. I have almost 3,000 miles and lot's of aggressive driving, autocrosses, and two road courses, the rotors look perfect still. I've heard of warping issues with the GM ones also.

I'd agree on the braking power with Sieg, I had the same front tire and could easily lock them up at will. The Rivals offer more grip for sure, but still more brake than tire. Hoping 265's will help :D

Great info guys. I appreciate all the feedback. Right now I have 275 fronts but am thinking of running a 315. I will follow up with Tobin tomorrow.

Thanks, Cal.

Thanks again guys for all the info on the brakes. I talked to Tobin a few times in last couple of days and he walked me through my options. He was very helpful and I feel confident after talking to him. I've decided to go with Kore 3 C6-Z51 with Hawk HP Plus pads and the DBA 5000 fronts and DBA 4000 rears. He is not far from me and I'm going to make a trip his direction soon so I will be able to stop buy and see him. Thanks again.

Cal

Good for you Cal!!


He's great -- so glad he helped and glad he got the business!

Hey Greg, when I seen your name on the reply I was expecting a butt chewing(LOL) after you ordering me to start doing research(just kidding).

Seriously, thanks for the help. Tobin emailed me four times and we spoke on the phone four times in two days. That alone made my choice easy. Then I found out he isn't far away from my home town and I may see him at a large car swap meet in two weeks in Portland was cool.

Thanks again to everyone.

Cal

Hard to beat the Z51 cost and performance wise. We still run stock rotors cause you can almost get them for free if you look.

What master did you go with? 1 1/8 or 7/8?

Vince, Tobin recommended the 7/8" Wilwood since I went full manual. Used factory pedal in the manual, upper hole, position. Good pedal travel, not too much and very firm at the braking position.

Cal, you'll be happy with that setup I think. Looking forward to updates!

Good news Cal :thumbsup:

Tobin's only 25 minutes north of me. I doubt you'll be disappointed with that C6-Z51 setup. Congrats!

No way Cal.... And I apologize for my original post coming off "terse"... that's not what I meant it to be. I was just pointing out that the factories are your best place for info. Didn't know you'd already talked to them. Glad it all worked out great for you!

Just kidding. Tobin explained things the other brake reps did not. The other reps always referred back to having plenty of stopping power. Tobin discussed, rotating mass, heat, pedal feel and the cause and effect of different set ups. Any brake guy can sell you plenty of brake, I've ran into very few that can really explain the four hundred other things that go along with it for specific applications.

Thanks, Cal.

I'm excited. It was one of those things I needed to get sorted out. I bought tires, finalizing wheels this week and maching up the motor and trans on the 21st and 22nd. Thanks again for your help. I'll post new pics soon.

Thanks, Cal.

Back at it today. Here are some pics of the progress.

Motor installed with the header on. Everything is fitting up nice.

Headers tucked up fairly tight considering I bought them for another project.

This is the first time the car has been on the ground with all the current parts on it. Tomorrow I'm hoping to do some work to the floor and some install the bulkhead fittings in the firewall for the cage.

I've started weighing the car every time I add parts or finish something. It's fun trying to strategically place weight or shed weight in order to get the final result I'm looking for.

Here are the results so far.

Damn, 1800 lbs right know?, jeez, makes you want to go full carbon front end, put a seat in it and go....

I have a full fiberglass front end including doors. The rear deck lid and bumper is also. All of them together weigh 99 lbs. I'm hoping to be under 3000 with me in it.

Thanks, Cal.

Spent all day in the shop yesterday and it was a little slow going. It seems like nothing got done but, there's was lots of lay out and pattern building that eats up lots of time. Here is a couple of pics of the progress.

I also got the bulkheads cut in and tacked.

Looks good, Did you decide to go with an Iron Block motor? That will certainly change your balance...

Thanks. No, I'm just using it for mach up while I finish the fabrication. Deducting the difference does help the balance but I still need to be conscious of the front weight. I'm not sure you can get enough weight out of the front of these cars.

Thanks, Cal.

I think the difference is 93 lbs in the iron block vs the aluminum. I need every pound I can get.

Great strategy that keeps you focused on the hp/wt ratio :thumbsup:

Thanks. Luckily we have a set of scales in the family from the circle track days. It really makes it easier to understand all the set up theories and reasoning when you are able to see how the weight affects the balance of the car and what the final numbers are. I'm excited to get the fuel tank in and the nose on, that should tell me where my focus should be.

Thanks, Cal.

New Life
 

I'm back on the car again after a lengthy break to work on my father in laws 55 Nomad(it's really nice). I recruited a friend of mine to help finish the cage this last week. He borrowed my bender a while back and became quite handy with it so why not recruit him. It turned out fantastic(thanks forest) and the next coue of weeks will be focused on finishing the sheetmetal and prepping to hang the fiberglass.

My JD2 tubing bender is pretty easy to work with. Especially now since it's hydraulic.

Here is the coupler I had machined by a friend of mine who owns a machine shop.

Lots of tig welding. Forest does nice work.

Looking good! :thumbsup:

From here I can see the end. My wheels are here and tires are mounted. My brakes are here from Kore 3(thanks Tobin), all I have left to round up is an LS3. I'm buying a one from GM and will use the Mast upgrade to 550HP.

Very Nice Update

Great progress. Great build to watch and I hope to see the final product tearing up the track in person.

:thumbsup: :thumbsup:

Thanks guys. I'm extremely excited and hope to run the car this time next year. I can't say I've waisted time as the nomad I'm working on is super cool.

If the Nomad came out kick ass you didn't waste your time. I see it as an evolution in skill production.

Looking good. You made me realize, I'm pulling the cowl panel next time I do a 2nd gen cage. The A pillars are perfect.

Looking good.