How extensive were the fender mods to get the R888's to work? Looking for some pointers. I also hope to get some V40's ordered soon too, so I need to get an idea of what back spacing will work best with my tires and Wilwood rotors. I'm not against notching the sub frame to maintain turning radius. Thanks!

What size Wilwood brakes are you running?

Agreed! measure!! don't assume, I know Vince at meanstreets custom ordered a pair of Forgelines and they wouldn't fit...so he measured and found they sent the wrong offset, not saying that's the problem.....but here again....PLEASE measure your own gear folks NEW or NOT. its just a tape measure(not a special tool), it makes you smarter knowing the truth about your gear,

http://www.wilwood.com/BrakeKits/Bra...emno=140-12271

The rotors have a +0.38" offset.

I re-read the complete thread again and am trying to figure out how switching between a 9 and 10" wheel alters how the wheel and tire combo fits in the wheel well, with the the 275 tire size and back spacing remaining the same. The V40's I want to use max out at 9.5" wide, and I'm thinking with my Wilwoods at +0.38" I will need to use 6" backspacing. Thoughts?

that would be pretty safe and if you need to move the rim outward you can use stock car steel wheel spacers as needed (I use them also).....but you could measure the distance and compare to the numbers on this thread to be sure

I measured mine with Wilwoods and came up with 15 3/16".

Difference in static camber.

True is correct. . .the display has no shims in the upper control arm.
If it had an alignment set it would have between -0.5 to -1.5 degrees camber, which would pull the top inward, making the shown dimension shorter.

I measured mine exactly as pictured at Ride Tech. So my brake rotor wheel mounting surface must be thicker...causing Wilwoods to need a little more back spacing than recommended?

Both.

Wilwood hats are thicker than Baer and certainly there is a difference in the alignment shim stack (given that RT's demo stub has none)......add to that the fact that old cars are rarely if ever exactly the same even if of the same model year and plant. Lots of ways to account for 1/8" difference.....even more reasons to measure everything, thrice, before ordering interdependent parts.

I have no alignment shims either. I think Rod measured what he did so that people would have a base line to compare different rotor and hubs too. Ride Tech suggests 5.75 back space for cars with the 15 1/8 measurement. Since I have more, I'll need a little more back spacing.

the 5.750 backspace isn't a super tight fit so an 1/8 inch here or there wont cause the wheel to rub, the 5.750 set up has about 1inch of fender clearance, if it was .250 (1/4) or .500 (1/2) then you need to adjust backspace:thumbsup:

SO even though Wilwood mentions that the rotors are +0.38", they aren't all that more wide than the Baers (which are considered baseline for this discussion)?

dude that's 3 times more than the 1/8 that someone measured earlier?

0.38" is alot, just because you wrote it short doesn't make it short that's .380 thousands that's almost 1/2 and inch...actually closer to 3/8

if its 0.380 you need to adjust for that, so a 6.00 inch backspace would be better


http://i752.photobucket.com/albums/x...psf8ac4ed9.jpg

38/100 is the same as 380/1000. My point was that even though I am using Wilwoods that are supposed to add 0.38" to track width, but they are only 1/8" wider than the Baers that Ride Tech used. Baers must not be 0 according to our measurements. The measurements you gave off of the frame gave everybody a baseline (as long as there car is measured with no shims, at ride height, etc).

I am at 15.5+ I measured from the base of the control arm mount rather than the control arm cross bar. so that is worth at least another 1/4" or 0.250"

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...228_144729.jpg

We measured from here

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...228_144656.jpg

After measuring - my back of the napkin calculations tell me I am not that far off from ride tech’s specs on BS. Maybe an 1/8” – 3/8” at most. The only thing I’m missing is a degree of negative camber and ¾” of ride height. I’ll be back on when I get those two issues addressed.

For future reference – the guy in the thread below is having similar issues.

Any more guys out there with 69’s on the road with the ride tech setup?

I got mine finally running again and have the RT uppers, spindle and TT setup with hochkiss drop coils and stock lowers. But, I have not drove it and I have MASSIVE front tires and wheels...... 17x7 & 235/45/17's!! LoL!
Well, maybe not so massive! :headspin:
Hopefully I can get mine on the road in the next week or two.

Trying to figure out what type of mods Ride Tech did to the 48-hour and Good Guys camaros. this is all I have found so far:
https://lateral-g.net/forums/show...t=38523&page=8 Check out post #78. It gives a peek at what was done with the inner fender.

Looks like they cut out a big section of the inner fender and bent the edge to make it rigid again? Probably rolled the outer fender lip too?

You cannot use the Goodguys car as a reference. Every panel has been changed. Nothing is in the stock location.

Yeh, I've heard that before, but there is nothing else out there for guys with a 69. I have looked at what Rodney has done with his...just looking for more reference to get ideas. Right now my main concern is the sway bar end link (where it bolts to the bar at the subframe). According to my wheel rite tool this is going to be an area of concern. But maybe my tool is wrong....it is a flimsy piece of plastic that is going back to Jegs after all! I'm starting to think I just need to order 18x9.5's with 6" back spacing to get my 275 R888's mounted and start pounding:idea:

If you are having a problem in that area what we do is weld in a piece of 3/16" steel plate which is drilled and tapped to accept the sway bar bushing brackets.

This will allow you to move the sway bar mounting back a 1/2" or more. Some frames you can back even farther. You can modify the spring opening flange.This will give you the room you need.

Thanks for the input. I'm not sure that would work for the design of the muscle bar since it is the bolt-on end link that is where the interference comes from. Maybe I'm looking into this too much or missing something.:hairpullout:

Oh you went for the full monte. Yeah your fct. Those do get in the way. Everyone running them with good back space has that issue. Be much better if they were splined.

Interesting. So it is not uncommon to have tire interference with the sway bar? or is that a thing with only the r888?

I guess I could grind down the affected area of the sway bar arm (the front where it bolts the to bar) and then weld the ends onto the bars (if the bar ends are steel). It seems to me that designing the muscle bar so that the area where the ends bolt to the bar was located under the sub frame instead of past it into the wheel-tire area might allow for more tire clearance...but I am far from a engineer! http://i1258.photobucket.com/albums/...ps9e6adbd1.jpg

So I got the engine in this week and as you can see Im going to need a lot more camber. I currently have about a .25 inch of spacers on all 4 bolts. I dont think I could fit much more than a half inch without running out of stud. Generally how much spacer is needed to get to the 1.5 degrees of camber or so? Do you ever have to run longer studs? Anyone have a part number for some longer studs?

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BwI...it?usp=sharing

i just run longer grade 8 bolts.

what control arms do you have again?

Ridetech for everything everything on the front. Looking at them again I think I have enough room for about a 1/2 inch more of spacers.

Doesn't having to use over 1/2-1" of camber shims to get 1.5 degrees seem excessive?

From what I have seen no, not with the RideTech arms, also depends on the car.

Cwylie, are you using an alignment machine or a smart tool angle finder?

Ok, believe this crap..... I actually drove the car this evening!! Woot woot!!:gitrdun:

Now, I didn't have any rubbing that I could hear, however there was a tiny bit I rubber build up on the fender, but I can't tell if that was from before I got it aligned. I raised the car up a touch also. With it sitting on the level floor, there is about 1/4" clearance on the back side at the fender lip at full lock. I'm relatively sure it will rub at full lock while turning into a driveway or something like that. But in all honesty, at this point I'm not too worried about it because if the wheel is at full lock, I shouldn't be doing anything other than creeping around anyway. I had pulled the top bolts out of the fender about 20 years ago to alleviate rubbing, so I'm used to a LOW car that rubs occasionally.

Now, had I bought this system to fit "meats" up front, I'd be pissed! However, since I got dinky 7x17's up there, I'm ok with it. I will have to buy new shoes anyway if I wanted some fats up there.

If I could figure out how to resize pics on an iPhone, I would post up pics.

You have 17x7's, but what is your back space? I have 15x7 with a 235 on a stock pontiac rally that doesn't rub on my 67 firebird.

i have a 285 19 on the front of my car . i have all the ridetech parts up front. my rims are a z06 offset . i build my cars so i can use the z06 offsets so when i have to buy wheels it is ez. the only thing that rubs is the muscle bar bracket but i modified it a little and now its all good.

Honestly, I don't remember what the BS is on those wheels. I ordered them in I believe 97 or 98!! LoL! They weren't "released" yet from what ARE told me then.

Well, I drove it to work today and it does rub the inner fender well at highway speeds when I hit a dip or bump in the road. I'm assuming because the wheel actually travels straight up now instead of tilting when it compresses. Not sure about the actual fender cause I never turned hard.

But... I DROVE IT!!

would love to see some pics of that setup at full lock with some measurements like ride height

After much research, head scratching, and re-reading this thread 3-4 times I finally ordered V40 rims...18x9.5" with 6" back spacing for the front and 18x11 with 7" for the rear. Hopefully that gets me close at both ends of the car, but I guess I can always use a spacer if needed. That's why I erred on the side of having a little too much back spacing, rather than not enough.