Hm I see Ron has you putting the shock witha fair bit of side view tip back, it seems to be lined up with your caster/anti-dive angle - must be at least 1.5" behind FACL on the chassis mount ?

I'll have to ask him about that as he put mine pretty straight up and down from the side angle.

Yes, but i want the adjuster perfectly inline with the shock so the jack bolt pushes straight down and not off at an angle. If I used a shock, I have to fight the pivot of the upper bolt and mount to the adjuster, making it very difficult to keep everything vertically inline.

Ron copied this tool and now sells it in his catalog. I guess my question is, how does someone who has built race cars for 30 years not already thought of this and made it? This is the first time I built something with an adjustable coil over mount, and knew in about 5 minutes I needed something to keep everything in alignment.

Awesome build! And very good idea^

Yep, been a few people with Ron front ends that have noticed difference between what they have and mine. Remember these are built different for each car. My track width is pretty wide, so my control arms are longer than most. I assume geometry takes precedence and the coil over simply mounts how available. In my case, the lower coil mount is a pretty good ways out there, and it becomes a matter of simply mounting the coil over where the spring clears the inside of the upper arm. I know the angles and will calculate my spring rate once I have it done and scaled.

I love the build. You are doing a gear job with the car. Ron is making me a front suspension for my Volvo 1800 build. It is quite a bit narrower than most so it will be interesting if it changes shock angles or anything else.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Been following your Volvo build. Really like seeing something so different. You've done a great job with the mods that enhance the look instead of changing it.

I hate this thread so much

Every time I get a notification I scramble to get what I need done so I can come look at this thread.

God I love this thread

Well, thanks! Same old same old, fit tubes, weld tubes, repeat. Got some cool stuff coming though!

Fixed it for ya !

Any updates ?

Few updates, been swamped with customer cars, so mine takes a back seat as usual!

Had to look back at what I have already posted, and left off at the fuel cell cage. Made the hold down structure:

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...psnkzyfbgr.jpg
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...s369bpdhb.jpeg

Then started building the seat structure, which requires a few floor mods:

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...psrs75xjkr.jpg

And at that same time, fit the trans and engine. The driveshaft doesn't clear the top of the loop, so I have to cut it out and extend it.

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...psb6qwxskb.jpg
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...pslnmxtrhm.jpg
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...psz9emcewf.jpg

Which required a new tunnel:

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...psokmbbey4.jpg
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...psbib7laan.jpg
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...pskqcxaroh.jpg
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...psuamjfbrw.jpg

Then built the seat structure and seat mounts:

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...psp9gt1kvc.jpg
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...psybrq90zv.jpg
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...psc7erzgck.jpghttp://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...psuwtcupnx.jpg
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...psyk2pkibe.jpg
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...psf89jr7ty.jpg
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...psioxavszj.jpghttp://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...pssi27wii7.jpg
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...psc98pbvu1.jpg
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...ps5ewdubz3.jpg
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...psjtgkbkr5.jpg
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...psvurv8nkq.jpg

Built the oil tank mount:

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...psbaojojep.jpg
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...psfrbalekz.jpg

And the column mount. Of course a bar is right where I need to mount the clamps to center the column to the seat, so made this standoff piece:

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...s9y5egvrw.jpeg
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...psb9gaojyr.jpg
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...psjbaorywr.jpg
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...pskxtpyfeu.jpg

Then on to the pedal mount:

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...psm9uigldc.jpg
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...psqh5fhyoh.jpg
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...psapgvag4k.jpg

I made the mount will multiple holes, slugged and welded, to allow fore/aft adjustment. You'll notice the column is "inside" the mount with the brake pedal to the left side. This is to allow me to spread the pedals a little wider and keep the accelerator far enough away from the trans tunnel to clear my big ass feet:

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...ps88on07um.jpg
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...psq5ah2trn.jpg

The line on the yellow tape is the seat centerline. I set the column and brake pedal to this line. I have the pedals spread for my size 12 4E clown feet!

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...psqwrdx8ef.jpg
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...pshugvaih3.jpg

A few things I've had machined.

The first is the ABS tone wheels to fit on the RSRT and Speedway Engineering hub:

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...psxlcg3loq.jpg
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...psinjbnu2i.jpg
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...psgfqumnbd.jpg
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...psjhogymiv.jpg
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...psqhltohl1.jpg
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...ps8clhycsk.jpg

Rear hubs:

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...pswgb3vqil.jpg
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...ps5tjkymzp.jpg
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...pspj2woufd.jpg
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...ps3r6u6eie.jpg

And some wheel spacers. I had Ron supply dimensions for the hub bore to my wheel manufacture when they were building my wheels, but unfortunately he provided the spec for steel wheels. This left me with a rear wheel hub bore about .030" from being hub centric for the drive plate . Talked to Speedway Engineering about turning down the drive plate hub. They told me I could take a 1/4" off without affecting strength! Only needed about .030, so had the drive plate turned down and a steel sleeve pressed on. This solved two problems. Number one, it makes the wheel hub centric, and number two, it allowed me to have hub centric spacers made, but to also pilot the wheel with the maximum thickness spacer. No this wasn't a cheap fix.

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...sfjp42nep.jpeg
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...sokag5mmt.jpeg
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...slcbx4jrx.jpeg

I'll post up some more later if Photobucket will play nice and let me load some more photos.

Nice fab work Craig. I love the fuel cell cage top with the angle cut top pieces. Nice touch !!!

Thanks, I'm sure I copied it from something I've seen!

Bitchin. The drab green and black look great together.

Don't forget the fade.

It's Florida and humid as hell. When I finish a section or after I make a part to be welded in, I put it in epoxy.

Beautiful work Craig. I was down in Orlando late in July and almost drove up to see the car and introduce myself in person. Your thread gives me inspiration for my Volvo build.

Thanks Darreld. I hope that inspiration isn't work on everyones car but your own!

Your car is really turning into something special. Can't wait to see it with the body and paint complete.

Anytime your this way, you are more than welcome to come by. Always here...

How did you bend/form that tunnel after the bad were in it?

Thanks

I didn’t! That’s why I used straight beads. Ran in through my slip roll and then through the bead roller with the table off.

good to know, I was really scratching my head on that.

I don't have a slip roll but I could try an argon bottle, then the Mittler.

Think I'll try a test piece or two in smaller scale.

Thanks!

Just read all the way through this, I love it! Seems like you had some blueprint issues? I used to have a 70 Swinger 340 auto so I have always been partial to mopar . Keep at it!

Thanks. We'll just say "issues".

Started back on it, time to build headers. Everything about this is going to be a fight for space.
I want the turbo's high enough to drain (don't want to mess with a sump, another pump, check valves, etc), but far enough back to help with weight distribution.
This leaves me very little options for mounting, so a pocket in the firewall is my only option. This will necessitate cold side plumbing in the cowl, and water-to-air intercoolers behind the dash.
The first hurdle is going to be the long (for a turbo application) tube headers. Okay, second hurdle, first is this is a Mopar that no one makes a flange for. I sent Aaron Oberle the measurements and an idea of how I wanted them and he responded with a very trick file:

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...ps4rhn8z63.jpg

Couple of tweaks back and forth and ready to be made. Dropped off some 1/2" 304SS to the water jet guy and got these:

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...samj74gr4.jpeg

I grabbed my scrap when I picked up the flanges because I had an idea...

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...psuwngr43o.jpg

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...pszdxv02jt.jpg

This slug is a perfect match to the port profile, and will make a nice forming tool. I reduced it's perimeter by about 0.050" to account for tubing wall thickness, rounded the edge that gets driven into the tube, and polished to keep it from grabbing. Drilled a hole (calibrated eyeball must be off center) and added a handle to have something to beat on!

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...pssv3s8kct.jpg
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...psmc0spzlv.jpg
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...pswraozefz.jpg

I formed the tube, slid it in the flange and formed it again:

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...pscbwgqojt.jpg

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...psdbctlvcw.jpg
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...pswjkmwguo.jpg
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...psreeopqhv.jpg
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...pstolb9it7.jpg

Pretty happy with the transition:

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...pstf6vflfg.jpg
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...psfkrlsavw.jpg

Thought I would give the ICE kit a try and see if it made the job any easier. I've always built 321 SS headers by first mocking them up from steel and then transfer to stainless. Just too expensive to screw up a 321 SS tube.
My space is so tight, seemed like a great time to try it:

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...psc7atreu8.jpg

So the easy part...need to have spark plug access, be able to remove the valve covers, clear a 335 tire at full lock, clear the coil over, clear the steering linkage, and last but not least, run equal length, long (for a turbo) primary tubes, using only 3" circle bends, that exit between the tire and firewall to mate to the turbo. I've laid this out at least 5 times, so going to give the kit an A on time savings. I stopped caring what it looked like and just concerned with everything clearing and primaries the same length. This is the first example of when all that came together, not the prettiest layout, but meets the "design criteria"!

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...ps3nkvk5qg.jpg
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...psn0vmgtut.jpg

Great work, Craig! Glad to see you back at it and moving forward.
:thumbsup::flag2:

Thanks for making the prettiest header flanges in the world--the world needed that. Seriously, it's great to see that you are back working on this beast. Sites like this one are seriously lacking in substantive contributions, and your tool-making stuff is the kind of awesomeness that really adds here.

You're probably already aware of this already, but your pipe routing is sounding like it will go in the direction of Mike DuSold's Camara (purposeful mispelling), which is also a twin-turbo setup, with the turbos located right around the footwells. This sounds creepy thinking about it, but hey, it's working for him, and his car is awesome, for a Cameero (purposeful misspelling).

For really cool and purposeful turbo routing/intercooling (single, not twin), check out Paul Faessler's Mustang setup (limits passenger butt space, but whatever): https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/ar.../break-maiden/. Faessler's son road races a late-model setup that I think has twins, but I'm not sure (Google). Keep at it!

Craig, this build is awesome to follow. You definitely have some mechanical skills and a keen sense for engineering. I hope the worst phase of the project is behind you so you can stay driven to see your vision to it's completion.

Just a question on the header flanges, which look fantastic. Are you familiar with reversion? In my experience (which includes according to my wife "way too much time" working with my flowbench) the trend is to make the exhaust tube larger than the head exit. Usually the upper 2/3 of the port will match for high speed flow, but if the tube is left round, there will be a step at the floor of the tube. During operation, the exhaust pulses will travel down the exhaust tube, reach the end and turn around (over and over diminishing). This is reversion, and these pulses can carry spent gasses back into the chamber reducing VE. The step helps block these pulses from re-entering the cylinder. Is this not a concern for turbo cars, or are you more concerned about WOT performance?

Thanks, just always looking for a better or easier way to do something. Most of the time I don't find it and waste a bunch of time!

I had more room to mount them low, would have made header layout easier, but didn't want to deal with a sump and another pump for just the turbo's. You also have to use a check valve on low mounts as the oil wants to drain from the pan or tank into the turbo when the engine isn't running. Mine are about midway on the firewall, giving me enough slope to drain oil back to the pan.

Thanks. Yes, had to walk away from it for a little bit, but back on it.


Yes, reversion is a big deal on turbo cars! I've been working with Burn's Stainless on the header size/length and shape. They recommended a smooth transition from port to primary with no step or lip.
I believe the long primaries are more key in the reversion scenario, but does go against conventional wisdom for turbo headers. I trust that they know best, it's what they do, and I've seen the data on spool time with short vs. long primaries. Just look at the Mazda turbo road car, high compression turbo car that only works because of a long tube primary manifold.

This makes total sense. A step into the exhaust tube would slow the gases down at that point. A smooth transition will keep gas speeds up to help with spooling of turbos with long tubes.

Thanks Craig, now I learned something today too.
Keep up the fantastic work. I'll be following

Glad you are back on it Craig. Gitter dun!

Thanks, trying!

I have never addressed my working relationship with Ron Sutton throughout this build. I was just going to let sleeping dogs lie (or die), and let the timelines and pictures be everyones guide.
That changed when I (finally!) got an email from Ron with the setup specs for my car. He included a note blaming me as a major influence to Greg Weld for "killing his business reputation". So in part, blaming me as well.

Let me start by saying that when I read Greg’s post about Ron and his experience, I had these crazy mixed emotions. The things Greg wrote, I had wanted to say publicly for years, I was elated, living vicariously through Greg for someone finally calling him out and saying that you can't treat customers like this. Then it changed to panic. I'm going to loose all the commitment and support I paid for, and was promised, to set this car up. But at the same time, I felt relief. Finally, no more feeling like a hostage. I could now tell people how Ron has treated me, about the quality of parts and service, and how many things went wrong. And that's a good place to start. What went wrong from the beginning.

I ordered and paid the complete front clip assemble, shocks, and complete rear kit with housing, somewhere in September of 2015. This included the new Stoptech brakes being released in, “about 6 months”.
I was told about 3 months for the front clip to be built and delivered. I was under the impression that these had been tested, proven pieces, but came to find out they had not. Customers would be doing ALL the R&D work, as Ron had never built nor tested any of this. That included the brakes and pretty much every other part Ron designed and sold. Mike Dusold was the first R&D tester, and had two suspension failures before replacing the suspension with his own design.

Start of the delays. Was told’ “super swamped”, “SEMA”, “bad cold”, etc… and before you know it, it’s mid-January and I’m not any closer than mid September. He did start working on it at that time, because he called to tell me JRi had a New Years price increase and that I would need to pay the difference. Wait, how does your time management issue require me to pay more money?! He failed to meet the timeline he gave me, and as a result, I am now responsible for the price increase? Whatever, called JJ at JRi and he let me have them at last years price. Thank you JJ. This is a call Ron should have made, not the customer. This is was my first indication that I made a bad decision purchasing Ron’s “stuff”.

Ron tells me I’ll have the clip in April of 2016. Great. April comes and with it, more excuses, “had to switch shops”, “part delays”, etc.. Said he will send the rear rails and parts, and to start there. Great. Frame rails show up about May 1st 2016. I cut everything out and start to install them. First issue. I’ll refer you to the build thread for description and pics. Build the back to the print. Another issue with the X brace in the print. Have to cut part of it out. Ron tells me whatever I want to charge for the fixes, he’ll pay. He never did.
Get all that fixed and ready to install the rear axle. It showed up mid August of 2016 (either 8 or 11 months after ordering/design, depending on where you want to start counting from). Ron had me send my stand alone E-brakes and brackets to him so Speedway could install them. They did, for a 12” rotor and I have 13’s….that Ron spec’d. Ron tell’s me I can pay to send it back to Speedway to be fixed or he will pay to have it done locally. He never did. More of this “quality and attention to detail of working with an expert”. I also get my 3rd member. I ordered a Strange Pro case with billet yoke. He sends me a Ford case with cast yoke. Sent it back and got the one I paid for. Also doesn’t have the inner tube seals. He sends those. Couple of weeks more delay with all this, but ready to mount this thing. The rod ends for my rear control arms are the wrong size. Ron sends the new ones. Go to mount the shocks and they won’t mount to his tabs. Called Ron and was told JRI changed the mono bearings and I needed the old style. Really? You knew this and just going to wait for me to call when I needed them? Ron sends those out. This all eats up weeks to months of time. I finally get the rear suspension mocked up and wait for the front clip. It shows up about the end of October 2016 (either 10 or 13 months after ordering/design, depending on where you want to start counting from). Great. Clean and put it in epoxy. Then I notice the sub standard welds or just plain missed welds (pics in build thread) and call Ron. He tells me, “It’s racecar quality, not show quality”. Hmmm, wow, I was told this was the best clip available and you sure charged accordingly. Guess poor welds were free, but QC not included.
During this whole time, I keep inquiring about brakes, and keep getting told, “A few months”.

Okay, bad stuff behind me, lets get the clip installed. Cut and fit and ready to tack it in, but something doesn’t look right. A few measurements and something is wrong with the suspension location. Contact Ron and find out he supplied the front blueprints at the wrong dimension from ground plane. He corrects this and sends me the new print. Pull the clip and lower it to the correct location, but not before fixing where everything was notched too high. I get it tacked in, but at this point I’m a year in with not much to show. I was expecting to be done by now, not still receiving parts and fixes. This is the part that Ron simply doesn’t care about. I’d schedule a week to work on my car (yes, this cost me money!), find an issue like the front clip height, contact Ron, wait a day or two for a response, another for a fix, and Presto, my scheduled week is gone with nothing accomplished. This was a recurring theme, find an issue, contact Ron through text or email (won’t answer the phone), get a text or email response stating he is busy and will get back to me in a few days. Just so frustrating!!

Greg had stated that Ron builds a dependency of the customer into everything he sells. I cannot agree more. If I emailed or texted Ron any questions, he would ALWAYS not answer one. So you go through the wait/time cycle and ask again, and again. My absolute, all time most irritating thing that Ron does!!

I learned after a year of waiting, to not ask when the brakes were going to be ready. He would simply not acknowledge you ask the question, nor answer it.
And since I brought up the brakes, let’s talk about that.
I was told in the beginning the delays were due to a new piston size Ron had spec’d, and that Stoptech was manufacturing them. We will come back to that in a minute.

Ron calls me(!) to take some measurements off my housing for the brake brackets. Can’t remember exactly, but sometime in early 2017, I think. This seems strange, why do you need my measurements, don’t you have a housing at your place your doing the R&D with?
A few months later, the brakes show up, almost 2 years after ordered, and can’t wait to mock them up. I start with bolting the hat to the rotor, but the bolt hole in the hat is too small to allow the bolt to pass through. I check them all, and same thing. Call a guy that just got his too, and same thing. Call Ron, and tell him. I ask, did you not assemble a set or verify any of this? I was told he had a display set for SEMA, and an employee put it together and must have forced them in. WTF? Sounds like an excuse, but if not, you’r not going to assemble and verify your own stuff. Oh wait, customers get the privilege of paying to do Ron’s R&D. So Ron sends everyone new hats and rotors, with the holes simply drilled larger. Didn’t need that hard anodize in the bolt hole anyway… front’s bolt on, but the rear brackets have the incorrect stud length. Call Ron and am told new brackets will be available in a few months. Again, not testing or verifying anything, just send it out and let the customer figure it out.
That brings me back to the caliper and Ron’s new piston sizes. Turns out, the caliper’s use the same piston sizes that Stoptech has always offered, nothing new. So the only “optimized” part is that Ron designed the hats and brackets for different applications…the hats with incorrect bolt sizes and the brackets with the incorrect length studs. Waited almost two years for that. Awesome.

It’s fine, in the past, let me throw my expensive mono block wheels on and see what it looks like. Front and rears are not hub centric, WTH? Call up the wheel manufacture. He pulls up the dimensions of the center hub, a dimension that Ron supplied him, and it’s exactly what Ron spec’d. Ron pulled the spec from Speedway Engineering that they provide for their hubs to their Nascar customers, you know, the guys that run STEEL wheels. So now I have a wheel with too large a center bore, but not by enough to make any kind of spacer ring, just be too thin. This required turning down the drive plate and pressing on a steel sleeve (pics in the build thread).

So at this point, I’m beyond frustrated with Ron. I purposely stop updating my build thread, as to not advertise for Ron any more. Really wanted to pull the thread down, as to not have anyone else buy this stuff from Ron and have to go through the same thing as me. I don’t publicly say anything, because as stated earlier, afraid of not getting the setup help when I do get this finished.
I had several people PM me about doing something similar with their builds, and I tried my best to talk them into the Speedtech clip.

I’m still working on it when I get time, but don’t really make time anymore. I’ve fought this for over a year and need a break. Took 6 months away to work on other stuff and started back by mocking up the driveshaft to start the seat install.

Then another issue. Ron is adamant this is my fault, even including it in his last email, “I see you are still blaming me online & in the back channels of communication for errors in the blueprints for your build. If you're referring to having to cut out your driveshaft loop ... you caused that when you changed the height of the transmission tailshaft.”
First thing I got from this was totally ignoring all the other issues he is aware of and only singling out the driveshaft loop.
Yes, I did change the tail shaft angle, and it did make the driveshaft hit the loop. Why?, well my dimensions are as follows, and mirror my print specs. Crank centerline is about 9” from the surface plate, the loop center is 4.5” from the surface plate, and the pinion is about 6.75” center from the surface plate. So yes, I could tilt the tail shaft down to run through the loop and connect the rear, although very close with the 3.5” diameter shaft, but the working angles on the shaft were really bad. When I ask Ron, he said, “Don’t worry about the working angles, that’s for street cars, not race cars”. Well I am worried about it, and cut and extended the loop to compensate. So technically my fault for wanting a proper working angle on the driveshaft.

At this point, late 2017/early 2018, I’m getting really burnt out on this. Every time I go to do something, it’s another issue with something RSRT related. This was supposed to be the easy part, and everything else was going to be, and is!, difficult. So just needed to take a break from it again. Any part of this being fun is completely gone. I no longer look forward to working on it. I’m so much money invested, I definitely need to finish it, and will, but need to get fired up and re-motivated. I’m getting there, and have recently started working on it again as of late 2018. I’m now in the difficult part of packaging everything for function, and important to me, form.

So if your hanging out to see it get finished and driven, hang tight, i’m working on it again!

Before I put a period on this, I want to apologize to anyone that chose to work with Ron based on my build thread, and then had a bad experience as well. I should have been posting my issues all along. I was just so much money invested that i was scared I’d be “cutoff” from the setup help. I know a few others that still are, and refuse to say anything bad about Ron, although they have had very similar experiences. I know now, that I won’t get the setup help I paid for, and honestly, I’m finally okay with that. Dealing with Ron over the years has been the absolute worst experience I’ve ever had, and to prolong that, would just be more of the same.

Yep. Nothing was ever Ron Sutton's fault. Nope. Nada. :smiley_smack:

Thanks for posting that Craig. Onward and upward.

Great post Craig.....

I just dropped off the Dirt Missile and have already gotten a ball park guesstimate of fixing all the crap that is so obviously wrong with it.

Was funny — first thing the guys do is lift off the POS hood... Then notice right away that the plumbing is a disaster.... Mind you.... I’ve not so much as spent 10 minutes looking over this car. It was RON SUTTONS build — his “guys” working on it at my shop.... I stayed completely out of the way. Frankly — watching them was too painful to be interested....

Now — NOBODY but his builders (they’re not really builders at all) have touched this car. First thing one of the guys notices is that the front brake line (driver side) is almost cut thru... yeah - the routing of it puts it touching the inside of the wheel rim... about 2 more laps and the car would have no brakes....

They attempted to plumb some kind of PCV but it’s a dry sump motor.... you don’t run a PCV with a dry sump.... then they notice the cooling system plumbing — oh and the fact that the serpentine belt is misaligned - and that the dry sump system itself isn’t plumbed correctly.... and well.... this is all in the first 3 minutes of just looking it over.

Guesstimate for labor — about 300 hours

Motor is cooked — his wiz bang top notch tuner dude.... yeah - not so much... the 2000* coating on the headers is completely cooked off in a couple cylinders....

Oh - and then they pull a valve cover — yeah - more problems.... So on top of the 300 hours — the motor needs a rebuild. This was (note the was) a $30,000 Ron Sutton Secret sauce motor.... it has about 20 laps on it. Come to find out - Sutton sent parts to Scoggins Dickey for them to build the motor — but like everything else the ass ever did — they’re wrong....

Had dinner with Nick Relampagos (good auto-crosser and EX Sutton customer) and Nicks motor came from Sutton — he won’t even use it in his wife’s car.... LOL

Synopsis? My $200,000 Track Warrior —- needs $50,000 worth of wiring - plumbing - different parts that actually work - and that’s not touching the body issues.

Trust me when I tell you — Sutton is going to have some California tax issues... And now I hear he’s going to start up his business again. I’m thinking he probably ought to start preparing for a stay at the penitentiary instead.

Thanks guys,

I know I should have posted this stuff a long time ago, and for sure when Greg posted his ordeal.

No Limit Rob said I am partly to blame for not saying something sooner, and while I had reasons for not wanting to, he's right, I am. I own that.

People need to know, that what Greg did was because of how Ron treated customers like me (there are plenty of us), and to keep anyone else from having to suffer through the same ordeal. Thank you again, Greg.

So closing the chapter on that book. Somehow putting that behind me has motivated me to finally finish this thing up.