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After having seen the setup ----- I'm wondering if you're not giving too much up in an effort to keep the motorhome inside. What about a "nice" carport cover out the back side door -- and a wooden fence/screen with gates for quick access) so you're not seeing the side of the motorhome from the pool etc - and it would keep the sun off it etc. If you have no project going - the MH could come inside -- but if you have a big project or need the room - back it out under the covered carport for a month or whatever time you'd need.
It could sit on compacted gravel -- or those cement blocks - buried to ground level with gravel for drainage... Just thinking out loud here buddy. |
You have to remember Greg, about 60% of the reason I'm even getting a new house plus shop is to have a place to store the RV inside. Heat is a killer to the inside of an RV and my RV being dark in color makes it even worse. Plus, if I put up any kind of a shed or cover in that back area, the legs of it would make it too difficult to move other things around like car trailers, other cars\RVs or whatever. Heck, I'm halfway concerned about being able to back my long arsed truck and car trailer up into the slot between the RV garage and fence. That flat area behind the shop is only roughly 50' x 50'.
The RV is a small part of the space inside really and it has wheels...which makes that part easier. Heck, I could park TWO RVs side by side up against that back door and not take up much more room for my other stuff than one RV does. The trick is just getting whichever lift I choose far enough away from the East wall (or things along that wall) while still being able to get a vehicle on and off the lift. I'm talking with a Bendpak sales rep now and am learning about their adjustable locks on the posts which make leveling it a lot more easy than the other types of drive on lifts with fixed locks on posts. This would let me angle the lift and fix most of my issues. Plus I remeasured my truck wheelbase today and came up with a shorter measurement which will help as well. Today's progress pics... https://photos.smugmug.com/Vista-Mon...9htwwK4-XL.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/Vista-Mon...LwDRLRP-XL.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/Vista-Mon...kfNMqpW-XL.jpg See that black PVC pipe with the brown paint on it? That is the clean out for the drains in the RV bath that I was going to extend over to beside the back door and use as an RV dump. I take one day off from going up and this happens... Had I been there I could have just had the guys setting the pool equipment plumbing set it up a foot further away from the building...but NOOO... |
Guess who is learning how to 3D draw? :D
https://photos.smugmug.com/1985-Mont...20lift%201.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/1985-Mont...20lift%202.jpg |
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You guys... |
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Are those all manual valves on the pool equipment ?
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Looking good Lance! I'll be back down in March.... and you'll almost be moved in by then.
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I need to post some updated pics, the house has come a long way recently. The shop not so much, it's pretty much ready for final cleanup and move in. |
So this is how we are going to lay the shop out. I moved the tool box and tool chest to the middle of the floor and the lift closer to the wall to line it up with the door. There was lots of room in the middle and there is no law that says a tool box must be against a wall, so it only made sense.
I also added another Ikea corner desk and some shelves above the desk area for my office. I'll probably hand make the upper shelves to make best available use of the space and fit it to all of my office equipment needs. My goal is to keep everything off the floor except the feet and legs of the tables. The TV will go on that bathroom wall just to the left of my desk area along with the stereo. All of the big movable tools will line the wall on the left hand side behind the RV (engine stands, engine hoists, welders, presses etc). I'll park the RV close to the front door most of the time and the 20' or so behind the RV across from the bath will become my "dirty work" area with a large rolling steel work table with welders, grinders and such on or under it. The heat pump air handler will sit on a base beside the water heater and have a duct that comes up to just higher than the bathroom ceiling and point out toward the center of the shop. The area on top of the bathroom will be for long term storage of things I won't ever use but I'll have to use a ladder to get up there. https://photos.smugmug.com/1985-Mont...4-2018%203.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/1985-Mont...02-24-2018.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/1985-Mont...4-2018%202.jpg |
Looks like a perfect set up to me. What software are you using for the renderings?
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Thanks!
It's the free trial version of Sketchup. My brother did the initial build of the building then sent it to me to mess around with. |
Lance, I’m no HVAC expert but I’d at least talk to the folks doing the house and see what it’d cost to extend the duct down the middle of the shop. 30’ of duct, some strapping and a couple drops with diffusers...that’s two guys half a day, cheap. Plan the work while the electrical is getting done and a lift is onsite, they’ll be in and out of there before most folks roll outta bed.
Do yourself and the heat pump a favor and install a system not just a component. Place looks great and your sketchup skills are stellar! :thumbsup: |
We had a similar air handler at our old commercial building in KC, with a duct running halfway across the top of the back wall of the shop with vents facing out toward the middle of the room and one vent on the end. The majority of the air went out the end of the duct across another 25' where it hit the wall and came down. The shop as a whole stayed pretty dang comfortable.
My thought is the 5 ton air handler will move a LOT of air....in a hurry... The air has to go somewhere, typically it'll keep moving until it hits something that will stop it (the wall at door end of shop). I understand there may be a 5 degree difference between one end of the shop to the other but as over sized as the handler is, it should be fine. The other option is ductwork 16' up in the air along the ceiling, I don't think I'd like duct hanging down 6-8' below the ceiling. Problem with that is...now you are trying to condition almost twice the amount of air. We'll see, I can always add duct work later if needed. |
I’ve read a few books and know you’re correct about two things. That unit will move a lot of air and it is oversized.
I’m sure it’ll be just fine. :thumbsup: |
I've got some updated outside pics if anyone is interested?
The builder finished "their version" of the final grade a couple of days ago. It shows pretty much what the lot will lay out like. We have narrowed the landscape contractors down to two and are tweaking the final plans now. Whichever one we chose will be able to hit the ground running right after we close April 12th. The front yard and driveway... https://photos.smugmug.com/Vista-Mon...jKsHkcN-XL.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/Vista-Mon...jgLSptm-XL.jpg Area directly behind the RV Garage... https://photos.smugmug.com/Vista-Mon...qGZ4rGJ-XL.jpg I'm having 1/2" screened rock put down behind and beside the RV garage for parking, turn around and such. The car trailer will be tucked in between the shop and fence when not in use. The outside AC condensor for the shop will sit along the back wall between the pool heater and the garage door and a Pool Equipment wall will hide the equipment so it can't be seen from the pool area. https://photos.smugmug.com/Vista-Mon...5kJRgHm-XL.jpg Future plans call for a firepit area on this side of the pool from the house. For now we are putting a BBQ island over on the side of the travertine deck closest to the fence. I've chosen a company to finish the floors in shop and house garage, this is the process they'll use. – Grind and Seal -perform 30 grit diamond grind in order to expose salt and pepper aggregate -patch minor cracks, joints and spalls using a cementitious repair mortar -perform 80 grit finish grind -apply clear polyaspartic sealer at approx. 4-6 mils thickness The Polyaspartic is a clear epoxy that will protect the smoothed out concrete will making it easy to clean and also easy to repair if necessary. They plan to start the day we close as well. Not much else has happened inside the shop in a while. Waiting on electric meter to be set so they can finish the install of the third door opener and tidy up a few other loose ends. Then one final touch up paint and it's ready. The house is close also, carpet is down, final electric and plumb done, working on prepping for final paint and appliances. And odds and ends...LOTS of odds and ends... |
Hey! Get some water in that pool!
I'll be down Friday the 16th -- planning to hit GoodGuys on Saturday (maybe even Friday...) WOW --- that yard sure looks different than when I saw it last time!! |
They will put the turbo heads in the pool next Monday...then it'll be ready for the final interior finish, then water.
So, you'll finally get to meet Barney on Sat, cool. I'm taking the RV and camping at GGs all weekend, I expect you to look me up while there. I'll have my extra helmet with me just in case... ;) |
Beautiful!
And I LOVE that driveway, so much nicer than concrete! Joe |
Thanks Joe!
I like the looks of the pavers as well. Not sure about how the upkeep on it will go though. Trying to decide if I should attempt to seal them or just let them be? Will also need to be a bit more careful with my "racer friends" and letting them park their leaky cars on it. :D |
Can you not pull the oil spotted pavers and install new ones? Keep a few new ones stages out in the weather so they naturally age with the driveway pavers.
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Not a clue Sieg, I'm used to just hitting the stains on my concrete drives with brake cleaner and a pressure washer... :EmoteClueless:
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I applied it dry and rubbed it into the effected area making it a finer powder, stirred it around with a broom a couple times and let it sit overnite. The Tide powder acts as a poultice (wicking agent) and pulls the liquid out. Swept it up, hosed it off then reapplied Tide and rubbed it into the surface with my foot. Hosed off the next day and no discoloration to my surprise. |
Awesome advice Greg, thanks!!!
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That's a hell of a nice set up. I'll make sure my wife doesn't see the photos of that pool. :D
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Thanks! And how do you think I got the big shop I wanted? :D
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Wow that looks great!
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So we took a few days off from checking on the progress (as it was going WAY slow this week) but we swung by last evening.
Big news is... We got power!!! They finally put the meter on the box out front. Now I can tell just how many two way light switches they need to take out and flip over so they work the proper direction. :yes: Not much else to report, thanks for the kind words everyone. We picked up quite a few furniture pieces this week and more today, finally narrowing down on a lot of the still undecided upon options. 32 days.... |
Awesome set up Lance, looks great.
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Things are getting ready to happen...
https://photos.smugmug.com/Vista-Mon...JdDxC5M-XL.jpg Did the new home orientation yesterday, the house is basically ready to close...just some final touch up paint and touch up cleaning left and possibly a new kitchen sink. Was scheduled to close Thursday April 12th but we are working on speeding that up a bit...might be in as early as Monday the 9th. The possible change in schedule is making me have to rearrange things a bit but it's worth it to finally be able to move in and get on with the rest of finishing the house (and shop) up. https://photos.smugmug.com/Vista-Mon...s9pq2Fd-XL.jpg |
Congrats Lance,
You made the right move. We just got ten inches of snow last night....ugggh. That pool looks awful inviting |
i would have capitalized (AND SHOP) lol...
Congrats, that pool is beautiful! |
Congratulations....!!!
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Sweet! Now if we could be neighbors and I could use it.
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Or you could just build your own... :D I've never had a pool before and I'm quite looking forward to this. |
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Looking good tho Lance. Beautiful home. |
Beautiful Lance.
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