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Awesome!
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Small update for tonight. I've been chipping away at some small things when I've had some free time (which hasn't been much lately!)
New speed sensor on the T56: https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1933/...53225f03_c.jpg Masked off and painted the inner wheel wells. The undercoating in there was actually in pretty good shape and mostly intact. I just scraped off the loose bits, cleaned it with some degreaser and hit it with some Rustoleum undercoating in a can. Turned out pretty good! https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1973/...c2f795d6_c.jpg https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1950/...2df6ef33_c.jpg Got my new polyurethane engine mounts mounted up in the clamshells and mounted on the K-member: https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1968/...88f5db4d_c.jpg https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1970/...45f23385_c.jpg Finally spent some time setting the lash on the lifters: https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1935/...7932aefe_c.jpg Almost ready to get the engine back on the K-member and get the clutch hooked up! https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1946/...209ee6fd_c.jpg |
Had a busy October but managed to get a few small things done on the car.
Transmission crossmember and a few other pieces all cleaned up, prepped and painted: https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1962/...0f218d82_c.jpg https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1966/...d359a3f4_c.jpg https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1951/...8507a5a7_c.jpg https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1915/...9585bf19_c.jpg Next I started installing my A/C system on the firewall and ran into a bit of a problem with my new evaporator. My new one wasn't quite the same shape as the original...it was smaller and was also missing the foam needed to seal it against the hosing. This one was from RockAuto… does anyone know where I can get a good replacement evaporator? https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4901/...e533ae70_c.jpg https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1934/...54eee330_c.jpg https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4844/...9f94b93a_c.jpg Lastly I modified my 4th gen clutch master cylinder to be adjustable using some plans I found here on thirdgen.org. Before I took the car apart, the clutch pedal sat very high and the engagement point was near the top of the pedal travel. I prefer to have the clutch engage pretty close to the floor, and I'm hoping shortening the rod and making it adjustable will help me get that dialed in. https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4829/...b35591dd_c.jpg I started by making the following 2 cuts, which took about a 1/2" out of the shaft: https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4888/...a2e48675_c.jpg I used a 3/8-16 NC tap to add threads to the ends of the shafts: https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4816/...2e731005_c.jpg https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1944/...057d310e_c.jpg I then just joined the 2 ends of the shafts using a 1 1/8" hex nut and 2 jam nuts. If I were to do it again, I would order some thinner nuts to use as jam nuts as the ones I bought take up quite a bit of the available thread and there's not much thread there to begin with. I first practiced on my old one and then repeated the process on my new one. https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1902/...8029641a_c.jpg |
Nice work. The engine looks good.
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New update!
Before I installed my clutch master cylinder I had to repair this nasty hole cut in the firewall by the previous owner. Looks like they used a drill bit and some cutters or something to make this hole... not pretty! I tried my best to clean it up with a grinder but ended up just making a little block off plate to clean up the area: https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1942/...ef36bf97_c.jpg https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4812/...916117e9_c.jpg https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4884/...a8db756a_c.jpg https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4914/...c3a0d901_c.jpg https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4831/...37d52a2b_c.jpg Next I custom cut a sheet of DEI heat shielding to put in my transmission tunnel. Before I took the car apart my center console would get very hot after some aggressive driving. I'm hoping this will help cool it down a bit. It was a bit tricky working on my back and trimming the shape piece by piece but I got it done! https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4877/...e4771fd2_c.jpg https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4908/...3fd94c55_c.jpg Finally,I worked on getting my engine off the stand (for the first time in about 8 months!) so I could work on getting the clutch and transmission installed: https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4869/...e2331e27_c.jpg I started with replacing the pilot bearing in the back of the crankshaft. What a battle this turned out to be! I started with using the rental tool from Advanced Auto Parts which didn't work at all and just kept slipping off of the inside edge of the bearing: https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4807/...b49baf24_c.jpg I then tried using the "grease method" by filling the cavity with grease and hammering in a socket. This didn't work out either as the grease kept working its way around the socket instead of forcing the bearing out. I even tried stuffing bread in there and that didn't work! https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4823/...becd5c05_c.jpg What I finally ended up doing was making a custom tool to get the job done. I grabbed some regular old bar stock at Home Depot and used a lathe at my buddy's shop to get an exact fit inside the bearing. This worked like a charm! Once I packed it tight with grease and gave it a few good shots with the hammer, the bearing moved out about a 1/4inch. I was pumped! After that, I just kept adding more grease and hammering on it until the bearing was out. Success! https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4825/...bed571fd_c.jpghttps://farm5.staticflickr.com/4890/...4c9c639b_c.jpg https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4847/...a8c9ff55_c.jpg Things like this have been setting me back quite a bit on this project but I've been looking at the positive side: I now have a new tool and some new knowledge on how to get these things out! It's all worth it when you enjoy the journey and know the job was done right! New one installed! https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4822/...02e08edb_c.jpg Flywheel and clutch install coming up next! |
Nice work. I'm glad you got it out. I've always used the slide hammer tool from autozone or advance auto. It has a pilot bearing attachment that's never let me down. Might try that next time instead of the pilot bearing tool pictured.
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I agree with Trey but I own the tool in question. The slide hammer is the way to go - especially with certain cranks that are gun drilled. If you have one of those the grease method won't work, you will push the plug into the engine. In the process you will also learn the definition of the word frustration if said engine is in a vehicle.
This is the Cliff's Notes version but I have a friend who can explain this scenario in detail if you like. :getout: |
Almost ready to get the engine back in the car, just finishing up a few things and back in it goes!
First I had to get the engine and transmission mated up on the ground. This is my first clutch and transmission install so I thought doing it on the ground would give me better access instead of wrestling with it on my chest under the car. The car had a SPEC Stage 2 clutch already installed when I bought it. I called SPEC, and we decided to freshen it up with a new clutch disk and flywheel and keep the pressure plate. I decided to go with an Aluminum flywheel... I know it will be a little trickier to drive but I had one in my C5 Corvette and loved and how quickly it revved when I blipped the throttle on downshifts. That's an OK tradeoff for me! https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4915/...9890bed1_c.jpg Flywheel installed with new ARP bolts: https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4815/...f17fb944_c.jpg Pressure plate torqued down with new bolts: https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4803/...5e73637b_c.jpg Bellhousing on and ready for the transmission: https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4806/...e926e7c2_c.jpg Mated up! https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4819/...04b4c53d_c.jpg Before I put everything in the car I also installed my new MGW shifter in the T56 with a new bronze bushing. I had a Pro 5.0 in the car, but still felt it was a bit sloppy for my taste. I'm hoping this one will stiffen it up a bit and give the shifts a nice crisp feel: https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4837/...ebd254cc_c.jpg https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4888/...b57e9899_c.jpg The drivetrain is pretty much ready to go back in the car now, should have that done in the next update! :relax::headspin::gitrdun::gitrdun: |
I enjoy the MGW shifter in my TA. Good balance between feel and ease of movement.
Agreed on the aluminum flywheel. I've had the Fidanza flywheel I have currently behind my stroker motor behind a stock LT1 when it was in my Formula and then the TA. Yes, I'd occasionally stall out on the start, but rev matching is so easy. My new to me 00 540i has a dual mass flywheel. I haven't gotten accustomed to how much throttle I need to give it to rev match. It's so much more than the aluminum. I'd switch on it too but the Bimmer's heavy and the transmission will rattle without the dual mass flywheel. Congrats on getting the engine and trans put back together. |
BIG MILESTONE IN THE PROJECT! ENGINE IS BACK IN THE CAR!
I decided to put the engine and transmission back into the car as a unit from the bottom and it ended up working out awesome. I was able to do it myself in just a couple of hours. Here's how I did it: I had the transmission on a small scissor lift and put the engine and K-member on a cheap $20 moving cart I found at Harbor Freight. It was awesome, the whole drivetrain rolled arund the garage pretty easy! https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4846/...5aa506b4_c.jpg https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4819/...04b4c53d_c.jpg To get the engine under the car, I had the rear wheels up on ramps and lifted the front end using my engine crane attached to the lower radiator support. I reinforced the radiator support by ratchet-strapping a 2x6 underneath it to help spread the load: https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4918/...fd4f34d5_c.jpg Getting the motor in place under the car: https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4905/...e28e30a3_c.jpg https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4831/...812c9169_c.jpg https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4874/...1fa06ee1_c.jpg I then started lowering the body to meet the engine: https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4860/...ed31f010_c.jpg I ended up not being able to get the front of the car low enough to meet the K-member, so what I ended up doing was placing the body on jackstands and using my engine hoist and transmission jack to bring the K-member up to meet the frame. Ended up working like a charm! https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4824/...02e59908_c.jpg Engine coming up! https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4914/...ee517eca_c.jpg Motor, transmission and K-member in place and bolted up! https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4910/...1f4c440f_c.jpg https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4899/...e175073d_c.jpg If you can't tell, I'm super fired up to get this done! I still have a long way to go but it feels like a big milestone to get the engine back in. I can't wait to start putting parts back on for good, knowing everything is one step closer to getting this thing fired up! :cheering::dance::clap::clap: |
Congrats! The motor looks great in there against the grey.
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Congrats, getting the engine in the car is always a big step and motivator.
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Love this part of a big project, putting all the new clean shiny parts back together!!
Looks good and good job coming up with an easy way to mate everything together in your home garage by yourself. |
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Engine looks great back in the car, nice work!
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Been a while since I posted an update!
Ran into a bit of a issue as I started throwing parts back on the car... I forgot to install the pivot for the clutch fork before mating the transmission to the engine and putting it back in the car. Idiot! https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4883/...1b06bc94_c.jpg https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4872/...27c92107_c.jpg I tried for a LONG time to figure out a way to get it in there and torque it down with everything installed in the car but finally realized it would be best just to take everything back out and do it right... so down came the transmission so I could get it in there correctly! :hairpullout::hairpullout: The good news is I have now can get my transmission dropped pretty quickly! :) OK back on track now... For my booster and master cylinder, I have decided to upgrade to 4th gen Camaro pieces, both which I got from AC Delco. I could have used my 3rd gen booster with the newer 4th gen master cylinder, but coming from an automotive engineering background, I know how much work goes into making these parts work together and wanted to swap them in as a unit. I'm going to be plumbing in a Wilwood proportioning valve as well. https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4913/...d535cdb4_c.jpg I mocked everything up and it fit well but I wasn't quite happy with the grey color of the booster. So, off it all comes again so I can scuff up and paint a brand new booster! I think the black looks much better though. https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4875/...2808bfc4_c.jpg https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4853/...7f4c7d8d_c.jpg https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4882/...b124b018_c.jpg https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4803/...b93cfe3c_c.jpg Next I added a new steering wheel to my steering column and got that ready for installation. First time using a steering wheel puller and it worked like a charm: https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4910/...baa22ebc_c.jpg The "new" wheel (actually was given to me with the car) is a little smaller and MUCH thicker than the stock one which I like: https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4878/...783cf9b8_c.jpg https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4855/...529a4f73_c.jpg Hoping to keep the parts flying on the car to get it ready for spring! |
Yeah, there is NO way to get to that bolt with trans bolted to the engine, been there done that. I had to pull my trans twice because of issues with that pivot bolt (once it came loose, second time when clutch fork hit new pressure plate).
Onward and upward...looks good. |
Does anyone know the part number for front sway bar bushings for an '87 IROC? I measured my bar to be 35mm and thought I had ordered the right part number from Moog. The diameter seems right, but the bushings are tool tall. I would prefer a poly bushings if someone has the right part number. Thanks!
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Their catalog lists 3 different 82-92 f-body sway bar frame pivot bushing options: 30mm = 3.5159 32mm = 3.5130 34mm = 3.5131 |
Ok I got my sway bar bushing issue figured out. Apparently this has happened before and I posted a thread in the suspension section and got the right part number for a 34mm front bar. Thanks ScotI!
Energy Suspension - 3.5131R https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4883/...79632a4c_c.jpg Adding the rubber boot to my brake booster was a bit bigger pain than I thought. I couldn't find one for sale, so I ended up buying a used booster off of Ebay so I could grab the boot from it. The boot wasn't a perfect fit in the hole in the firewall, so I made a little template and opened the hole a bit for a nicer fit: https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4841/...b2357f44_c.jpg https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4810/...03a769fc_c.jpg https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7854/...55025962_c.jpg https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7869/...0ecc76b0_c.jpg https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7878/...f3d770be_c.jpg Getting the booster in means I could move on to installing the steering column. I got most of it wired up and installed, but need a bit of help identifying some connectors that I did not leave myself notes for. Can anyone help me figure out where these 3 connectors go? https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7812/...39ed9670_c.jpg |
Not much of an update tonight, been busy with a kitchen remodel so car time has been minimal. One thing I did get started on was the wiring harness. I've done some basic soldering in the past to extend and shorten wires or put on a new connector here and there, but nothing to this magnitude. I'm looking forward to it though, there's a been a lot of learning experiences along the way here and this is just another one to take on!
I started with just laying out the harness to get a good look at it: https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7905/...95a92d89_c.jpg I started taking off all of the old plastic loom next since I plan on re-taping the whole harness using some quality tape. The stuff was literally disintegrating in some places: https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7847/...36d7a54c_c.jpg Some of the connectors are in rough shape too... this one for the AC compressor has a resistor shoved in it for some reason: https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7882/...9fc2c5cf_c.jpg I'll post some updates as I move along with the harness! I had some issues with overheating when I had the car on track back when it was running so I've been doing some research on a new AL radiator. I ended up going with a drop in replacement from Cold Case Radiators. I hadn't heard much about them before but as I started looking around I found they had some great quality products and their prices were quite a bit lower than the big guys out there. I decided to give them a shot and so far everything looks good... it will be a little while before I can install it but I wanted to unpack it and see what she looked like: https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7920/...f499732c_c.jpg https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7833/...a556200b_c.jpg https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7837/...d5f3cf1a_c.jpg One thing I'm a little concerned with is that the fans do not have any designated mounting holes in the shroud. It seems that I'll have to drill these and use some riv-nuts or something to get them mounted. Maybe this is where the lower cost comes from: https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7873/...70df3dc7_c.jpg One last question - the radiator is universal for 3rd gens, so it has an automatic transmission cooler built in. Has anyone ever used this for an oil cooler? I was going to buy a separate cooler but maybe this would be more efficient? |
A/T cooler fittings are too small and not enough flow for an oil cooler.
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What you called a resistor is actually a factory diode on the AC compressor line.
The diode prevents the AC clutch from creating a voltage spike or arc on the relay contacts when engaged. I know it looks like a hack job but that's how the factory did them at the time. Newer cars have the diode placed in the fuse panel which is a much better, safer and more elegant spot in the harness. |
OK I'm back! Sorry for the long delay.. it's been a crazy summer for me and my photo hosting website was giving me issues and I didn't have a second to figure it out. Decided to hop on tonight though to set things straight and get back on track with my posts.
I've been keeping up with the car work where I can but I keep feeling like I am so far away. Lots of small issues slowing me down but I'm chipping away! I would love to post some detailed information about everything I've done since my last posts, but I think I will let some pictures get everyone up to speed. If you have any specific questions or want any more details on something just let me know! Rear suspension going in. UMI weight jacks, new ARP studs in the axles and a Spohn Panhard bar that came with the car: https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...f0155b28_c.jpg https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...d5d271a0_c.jpg https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...0b9e4591_c.jpg Front suspension going in. UMI weight jacks, stock A-arms rebuilt with Delrin bushings and tall ball joints, modified stock spindles for C6 Z51 front brakes and 13.4" rotors, upgraded hubs for 1LE bearings: https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...6665b499_c.jpg https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...6d3dcd96_c.jpg https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...b355bd97_c.jpg https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...01ba3717_c.jpg https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...3561b552_c.jpg https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...785c7741_c.jpg https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...897b5f95_c.jpg |
Good work. Glad to know you're still plugging away at the car. You'll get there I'm sure.
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And my wheels and tires are all mounted up and ready to go!
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...c3f8b3e5_c.jpg https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...cf652b1a_c.jpg https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...b4470946_c.jpg First time the car has been on all 4 tires in 1 and a half years!https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...f9d851c4_c.jpg https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...a9a3fa77_c.jpg https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...5be9e568_c.jpg https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...1faf8308_c.jpg I'm currently attacking the engine bay and trying to get everything squared away there. Since this picture was taken, I have my steering shaft installed, headers wrapped and installed and I'm almost done with installing a newer serpentine setup from a later 3rd gen:https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...2df0d29b_c.jpg I should be posting some more regular updates now so stay tuned! |
The wheels look great on there. Good choice!
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Where did you get your hubs and caliper brackets? Those Weld wheels look great on the car!
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Now you are getting there!! Looks great.
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Great match-up on the wheel choice. The spoke color works well w/the cars color. Fit looks really nice as well.
What was your final back spacing & width? |
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The wheel specs are 18x10.5 on all four corners. They all have a 6.6" backspace so I can rotate them. I think I will need a small spacer in the front but I won't know for sure until I get the car down on the ground with full weight on it. |
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My next big task is getting my radiator installed. After a bunch of research, I ended up going with Cold Case for my radiator. They seemed to offer good quality and were about half the price of the bigger guys like BeCool and Dewitts. The quality so far looks good, and I ordered mine with their shroud and cooling fans.
To attach the shroud to the radiator, they supply some rivets or self-tapping screws for you to use. You have to drill your own holes in the shroud and the radiator (maybe the reason for the lower cost). Riveting the shroud to the radiator didn't seem like a great idea if I ever had to remove it. I also didn't really like the look of self tapping screws. So, I invested in a Riv-nut gun and decided to go that route and use some nice button head screws for a clean look: https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...f8d70228_c.jpg https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...62d6769d_c.jpg I also wasn't crazy about the polished look (there's honestly nothing polished under my hood right now) so I decided to paint the shroud black: https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...0c911902_c.jpg https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...4515f37f_c.jpg https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...3c4ee67a_c.jpg One of the issues I'm running into now is fitting the radiator in the stock space. I'm running into 2 problems: The first is the new AC condensor I bought doesn't quite match the original, which is causing the tubes to hit the side of the radiator. (I checked and the radiator is the same width as the stock one, which is what I originally thought the issue was.) I guess my options here are to use my old stock one, order one from my local autoparts store and hoping that one is right, or cutting and re-soldering the tubes on my new one.I'm leaning towards throwing the stock condensor back in for now to keep things moving. https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...beb06976_z.jpg https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...62009533_c.jpg https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...b41361bf_c.jpg I'm going to stick with the stock one for now since my system was holding pressure OK when I took it out. The next issue is the new radiator is thicker than the stock one, so of course my upper radiator support does not fit. Eventually I'd like to go with a nice custom upper radiator support, but for now to get the car running I am going to modify the stock one to fit. I made some little extension brackets that work to hold it in place until I can access to a shear and brake to make a custom upper radiator support: https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...7c915c46_c.jpg https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...e32e0124_c.jpg https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...081e4cd8_c.jpg |
How hard would it be to just bend the line on new condenser?
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x2 and get new hoses should the factory ones not fit with the bent tubes?
Good work with the riv nuts. Much cleaner looking than rivets or screws. |
Thanks for the tips on gently bending the condenser tubes... everything seems to be fitting OK now. You can't be afraid to tweak some parts sometimes!
Radiator and condenser are in for good now, just need to get some washers for the M6 button head screws I used. I grabbed some foam from Home Depot to help seal the condenser against the core support so hopefully that holds up. https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...6877b857_c.jpg https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...628f2310_c.jpg I am now deep into my next big job which is getting the wiring figured out. My strategy so far has been to unwrap everything and loosely lay it in place. I've then been starting to connect things, and play with different layouts and how I want to route the harness. Sometimes that means shortening some wires and lengthening others. I've also been repairing any damaged wires along the way and replacing any of those crimp-on connectors with nice soldered jointed covered in heat shrink. It's taking me a long time but wiring is one thing you don't want to have to go back and do twice! https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...f63aaae2_c.jpg Once I have everything where I like it, I've started to wrap everything using Tessa tape. I was put onto this stuff from a local builder and I love it! I have 2 types, one for high temp areas and one for the rest of the engine bay. It's very easy to work with, and leaves a nice professional look. I've been starting at the furthest end of the harness and working my way back towards the firewall which has been working out OK for me so far. https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...a7a4e28d_c.jpg https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...fb97867a_c.jpg |
Been plugging away at the car slowly but surely over the last couple of months.
Wiring is coming along nicely, but it is taking a lot of time getting everything just right. Working behind the engine to get everything cleaned up and organized has proved to be a bit of a pain but it will be worth it for a nice clean look. I've been replacing some broken connectors with new ones from Hawks as well and repairing all the bad connections I find. A couple of quick pics: https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...ec4f2e06_z.jpg https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...0c3988bc_z.jpg https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...c82acb32_z.jpg I finally tracked down some OEM fuel lines to go with my retro-fitted serpentine setup (again sourced from Hawks). I painted everything to match and was able to make my old stock flexible lines (the ones that went with old non-serpentine accessories) work by slightly bending the hard lines on the frame rail to give a bit more slack. I am happy I took the time to find an OEM set of hard lines to snake behind the alternator. In my opinion it looks a little better than a long AN line hanging on top of the valve cover. https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...929ed968_z.jpg https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...e68f575c_z.jpg https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...6cdfb8ec_z.jpg https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...d1e4e787_z.jpg Lastly, because the 4th-gen booster I installed sits a bit closer to the firewall, I was not able to mount my clutch reservoir behind it on the firewall. So, after racking my brain for a bit, I came up with this little bracket design that I think will work pretty well: https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...b40d0205_z.jpg https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...17114b7f_z.jpg https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...596bdaa3_z.jpg https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...5dca3920_z.jpg https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...35b1dceb_z.jpg |
Glad to see you're still plugging along. Keep it up.
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Nice progress. You are in the slow tedious part but this is also the part the pays the most dividends when done properly the first time. Keep up the good work.
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