I installed the rear suspension and got it on the scales. Total weight is 1365 with only 43.52% on the front, not too bad.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...1baa9306_b.jpg20190719_174817 by Yelcamino, on Flickr

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...a36a5838_b.jpg20190719_173002 by Yelcamino, on Flickr

As I assembled everything, I weighed each part so I could see where the weight was coming from and also to help when it comes time to balance left/right/front/back. This is what I have so far:


Steering rack - 15lbs
Driver side upper/lower arms, spindle, C7 hub - 31lbs
Passenger side upper/lower arms, spindle, C7 hub - 31lbs
Coilovers (11lbs ea) - 22lbs
Rotors (20lbs ea) - 40lbs
Calipers & pads (8lbs ea) -16lbs
Wheels & tires (48lbs ea) - 96lbs
Front Suspension total - 251lbs

3 links & hardware - 15lbs
Watts links - 9lbs
Rear end housing assembly (no oil or axles) - 220lbs
Rear axles - 20lbs
Calipers & pads (8lbs ea) - 16lbs
Coilovers (11lbs ea) - 22lbs
Wheels & tires (51lbs ea) - 102lbs
Rear Suspension total - 404lbs

Chassis & cage - 710lbs

Total weight - 1365lbs

If you remember, after I first test fit the body to the chassis, I scaled it and it was 1875 lbs. None of the cage components were in it at the time but all the suspension parts were.

It will be interesting to see how much the body will add.

It's looking nice! Kind of cool to see it as each 'module' gets assembled w/the next. Digging the 'through tubes' for the brake hose ducting as well.

It looks like my last post was four weeks ago. Some things have happened since then.

The big mile stone is the body is back on the chassis to stay...

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...8da6f027_b.jpg10134 by Yelcamino, on Flickr

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...d30c347c_b.jpg10132 by Yelcamino, on Flickr

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...8ac8ec3b_b.jpg10133 by Yelcamino, on Flickr

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...0778ee1f_z.jpg10135 by Yelcamino, on Flickr

Those 315's look absolutely huge on there!

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...4de9c5ba_z.jpg10137 by Yelcamino, on Flickr

And of course, I weighed it.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...2b46dc8e_z.jpg10136 by Yelcamino, on Flickr

So 2129 lbs includes the body, chassis, cage work, suspension, wheels & tires. Before I started the cage if you remember, it weighed 1875 lbs, which means all of the cage components only added 254 lbs. Another interesting thing, the chassis with suspension, wheels & tires, and cage weighed 1365 lbs. That means the body, which includes glass and all door components, but no hood, floor, front/rear fenderwells, or interior, added 764 lbs.

The only other thing I've done since the body went back on is to install the bumpers to help make sure everything is centered properly.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...75640339_b.jpg10138 by Yelcamino, on Flickr

While trying to free up some room in the shop, I decided to make an engine test stand using some of the old roll bar I removed from the Chevelle and scrap tubing left over from the new cage. It's not pretty, I just slammed it together and the only money I spent on it ($20) was a set of casters from Harbor Freight. All the other stuff that's bolted to it, I either had sitting on a shelf, or I bought it to go in the Chevelle.

This also gave me an opportunity to see how much the all aluminum big block actually weighs!

Test stand - 98 lbs
Engine on stand (no intake or TB) - 614 lbs

Since I already weighed the bellhousing (30 lbs), clutch assembly 43 lbs), and test stand, I subtracted them from the 614, which put it at 443.

Then I weighed the Hogan intake and Holley throttle body (24 lbs) and now that gives me an engine weight of 467 lbs.

In the pic, the front accessories are in place and where during the weighing. The water pump & pulley (6 lbs), alternator, bracket, bolts, belt (12 lbs), PS pump, bracket, bolts, belt (5 lbs), and motor plates (4 lbs).

If my math is correct, just the engine from oil pan (includes 8 qts of oil) to intake, only weighs 440 lbs! I guess I don't need an LS to save weight! :thumbsup:

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...9b6da03e_b.jpg10142 by Yelcamino, on Flickr

I haven't run it yet because I'm still getting all the little pieces like fittings, hoses, etc, in place. Once it's running, I'll post a vid.

Looking good! What's your plan for tin work to cover the offset 3-link? Will you be making setup adjustments from above, or under the car?

Nice work Herb!! Getting to the fun stage for sure...

My plan is to fabricate aluminum sheets from the cage to the original package tray to cover the suspension and seal it off from the interior.

Looking into the trunk, I imagine you will be able to see the top of the rear end housing and upper suspension so I can make basic adjustments without having to get under the car. The wheel wells will be in and some form of trunk floor will be fabbed, but it will look all business.

Yep, this is going to be fun. Once the engine is running, I'll really be motivated to keep moving! :thumbsup:

I assume the headers were not included in the motor weight??? What block and bore. I have a Brodix with a 4.6 inch bore - the bigger the bore the lighter the block because the steel liners are thinner. Looks great!

Pappy

Correct, the headers in the picture are not included in the engine weight in my post. However, I did weigh these headers and the pair came in at 35 lbs.

The block is standard deck height, 4.5" bore, 4" stroke, 6.535" rods.

Thanks!

You're right, those 315s look amazing on the front. Congrats on getting the body back on the frame.

WOW

Great work!!

Thanks Trey!

WOW! Nice Work!

I am blown away by your 2.0 version. Now I’m afraid to show my 2.0 version


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks!

Small update... the engine runs! :evil:

https://live.staticflickr.com/31337/...404c21f0_z.jpg509 Running by Yelcamino, on Flickr

Sounds mean, lol. Congrats!

Thanks Trey! :thumbsup:

Sounds bitchin. Love the valve covers! lol

Thanks!

If anyone is interested, I'm still plugging along. I recently just rebuilt the core support to move the radiator closer to the engine, unshroud the core, and provide room for the oil cooler.

https://static1.pt-content.com/image...4945ed_b-1.jpg20200709_163912 by Yelcamino, on Flickr

This is where I am in the overall build...

https://static1.pt-content.com/image...391290_b-1.jpg20200709_184552 by Yelcamino, on Flickr

I still have a ways to go, but progress is progress!

Looks good, Herb! Need to keep my daily/autoX s10 healthy so I can get to work on my Malibu. Thanks for continuing the inspiration!

Sent from my SM-J320V using Tapatalk

Looking good!!

I follow here & IG so keep updating the progress. These build/info threads help others make decisions.

I'll do my best! Thanks!

Looks awesome!

I was just notified that my headers are done and on their way! Instead of building my own headers and learning through trial and error, I decided to have GP Headers build them for me. The offer a kit that includes headers flanges, collectors, aluminum hinges, PVC elbows and self tapping screws. After you purchase a stick of PVC straight tubing, you build your PVC mock up headers the way you want them. Once you're done, you ship the mock up headers to GP and they reproduce them in the material of your choice and ship them back.

I opted for stainless construction with merge collectors. They should be here Tuesday. Once I get them in I can finish the exhaust system and be another step closer!

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...64796890_k.jpg20200716_105103 by Yelcamino, on Flickr

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...ddb9478e_b.jpg20200716_134437 by Yelcamino, on Flickr

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...bc5f8473_b.jpg20200618_150826 by Yelcamino, on Flickr

Never heard of GP Headers before so I checked them out. Nice!
One can appreciate the breakdown of materials costs for someone thinking DIY. I've seen other mock-up kits for headers before. Their custom kit is a great idea.

A really long time ago I read an article about a company doing this. When I started thinking about it, I couldn't find the company so I resigned myself to building my own. Then two people I know on Facebook posted about their new headers etc, etc. Talk about good timing!

I went to PRI last fall and after talking to the GP guys and I was sold.

It came down to spending close to $1200 plus for a kit, then making numerous mistakes because I've never done it before, ordering more tubing to replace what I tossed in the trash can, make more mistakes because I don't know the tricks and processes, so on and so on. If I were to have done it myself, I probably would have spent just as much money and a lot more time!

Exactly & that's why I mentioned an appreciation that they listed an average costs on the materials.

I did my CC duallys exhaust w/stainless excluding the headers. I got my material free from a scrap/demo barrel where I work. I picked through the barrel daily searching for various 90's, 45's, & straight sections in the sizes needed. I had to cut all the elbows but I figured it would be do-able by just cutting on the weld line & keep things as true as possible. But, w/each of those pieces just slightly off/different caused me to go through a BUNCH of extra work trimming/buzzing things for the right fit. That was the only one I did w/used bends LOL. The next one I did using new bends & cut straights..... So much easier & better. The bends weren't free but I get them for much less than NET pricing I looked up & I used food/medical grade stuff.

Yours came out great & the best part is you know they'll clear all your mods.

This will be a great back up plan for me. I bought a set of Ultimate Headers, ceramic coated, with the nice collectors and all...so you know they weren't cheap. Waited several months to get them. Only to final install them and they didn't fit. Of course, this was very frustrating. Nothing out of the ordinary with my engine either. A simple DART LS Next block with 6-bolt heads. On the driver's side, one of the tubes is hitting the head bolt boss. So, I called Jim at Ultimate Headers and I'll give them a chance to make this right first. He said they would. So we'll see...

I really really wanted to build my own but for once, I used my brain! lol I have the skill to weld stainless, aluminum, ect. I know I'm not the greatest, but I can do it. On top of materials and time, I would also have had to set up a purge system, which would have meant another argon tank, regulator, hoses, and plugs. If would be different if I intended to make multiple sets, but in this case, one and done, so it wasn't worth the investment.

Awesome car, I love 66 chevelles.

I get it. Pick & choose your battles well.

Hopefully they'll get this fixed for you!

Since I couldn't do my own tig welding, I have $2k and 6 months in my headers. I did all the fitting and mock up. The final welding I paid for plus the coating. I'm learning to tig so I'll be able to do it again for less but it's still time consuming and expensive. It's something you have to want to do. It's typically not cheaper than finding someone to do it for you. Those GP Headers look awesome. Why did they not fully weld the collectors on?

Thanks, they turned out nice and the best part is they fit! As for the collectors, They were supposed to be slip fit but I had no reason for them to be removable, so they welded them. I assume the way the tubes wedge into the collector, there's no need for complete welding.

My assumption was that it was a tight fit but I wasn't sure. Thanks Herb.

Are your brake ducts going through the frame? If so, as one piece or do you have a coupler through the frame and attach the flex hose on each side of the coupler?

Love the build!!!