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thanks, Dave |
Great project.
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Thanks for the kind words! Will try to keep the updates coming, and I, too, can’t wait until it is finished!! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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Hey Dave, The seats are Recaro LS-C model seats, produced in the 1980’s and 1990’s. They’re pretty similar to Recaro Specialist seats currently being sold. They were completely refurbished with new seat and side bolsters and then covered in the leather of my choice and I could choose from endless stitching colors/patterns. Cost was about the same as purchasing a pair of new Recaro Specialist seats, but the ability to customize the upholstery was a big deal for me. Thanks! Brian Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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Thanks for the information. They look great! The whole build looks great. If your in IL, I hope to see it cruising around! Dave |
‘63 Chevy II Pro-Touring Build
Minor setback... as we attempted to get the driveline in, we had some issues with the Katech LS9X clutch I had planned to use. The LS9X clutch is a package developed by Katech combining the dual disc clutch that was used in the C6 ZR1 Corvette with a flywheel adapted for the 6 bolt crankshaft of most LS engines. As it turns out, the LS9 clutch is a meaningfully “thicker” clutch and won’t fit within a standard LS bellhousing. I’m using a standard Quick Time LS bellhousing.
In order to use the LS9X clutch within the Quick Time bell housing, you need a spacer between the transmission and the bellhousing that is approximately .85”, which moves the transmission back in the chassis .85”. D&D used to sell an aluminum spacer that they CNC machined to provide the appropriate clearance (Stielow used one of the D&D spacers when he put a LS9X clutch in his Mayhem build). I’ve already positioned the transmission cross member, transmission tunnel, as well as a custom QA1 carbon fiber driveshaft assuming no spacer. So the D&D spacer was not an option for me. Based on some quick research and through discussions with the folks at Tick Performance, I ended up purchasing a Monster LT1-S clutch, and will need to sell the Katech LS9-X clutch package. The Monster clutch is similar in concept to the Katech LS9X clutch, but a newer variation. While the Katech LS9X clutch uses the C6 ZR1 factory dual disc clutch with a modified flywheel for 6 bolt crankshafts, the Monster LT1-S clutch uses the GM OEM dual disc set up from the C7 Corvette, again with a flywheel modified to work with LS engines. Importantly, the Monster clutch is physically smaller than the Katech clutch and fits within the standard QuickTime bell housing. I’ve read a lot of great reviews about the Monster clutch; hopefully it works well in my application. Like the Katech LS9X clutch, the Monster clutch is supposed to have a factory feel, with absolutely no rattling or chatter that is common with dual disc clutches. Back moving in the right direction, but the whole thing has pushed us back a bit. We won’t get the clutch until Friday so motor and transmission won’t go in until early next week. A little frustrating, but not unusual to have a few bumps in the road along the way... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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Dave |
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Thanks Dave... definitely lucky that we don’t have to do any more fab work! New clutch arrived today, so hopefully we can get engine and trans in next week without further issues... Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk |
‘63 Chevy II Pro-Touring Build
4 Attachment(s)
Have been looking all over for the “right” steering wheel for the Nova. I was looking for something with a flat bottom (but not too crazy) that fit the look of the interior. Looked at a bunch of Momo wheels, Sparco wheels, and NRG wheels. The wheel I like best is a Quark model that Momo makes.
Attachment 72772 I really like the look of this wheel... pretty stealthy, flat bottom (but not too crazy) and nice thickness. Problem is that the wheel is made out of polyurethane with leather inserts. I wasn’t liking the feel of the polyurethane on this wheel, which is a huge deal for me since the steering wheel is your most direct connection to the car that you’re constantly in contact with. Recently, someone here on the forum asked me about the seats I’m using for my Nova. I forwarded the link to the web site for the craftsman (Marek) that did my seats. I noticed that he had a new website that had a gallery of a bunch of his work/projects and I noticed that he recovers steering wheels. So, I reached out to Marek and discussed what I was looking for. Marek suggested we buy the Momo wheel and recover it in the same leather that he used to cover my seats. He also said he could add a stripe at the 12 o’clock position, and could stitch it together using the same red thread he used on my seats. He finished the project this week and the wheel is currently in transit to me, but he shared a couple of pictures with me. I can’t wait to get it and see/feel it in person. Let me know what you think. I’ve also included a picture of my seats as a reminder. Attachment 72773 Attachment 72774 Attachment 72775 Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk |
Perfect! Nice stitch-work!
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that looks great, he does sweet work.
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‘63 Chevy II Pro-Touring Build
7 Attachment(s)
We got the clutch issue resolved - new Monster clutch fit perfectly, shimmed the slave cylinder to Monster’s spec, and got the bell housing aligned properly with the help of some offset dowel pins.
Attachment 72842 Attachment 72843 Motor and trans installed. Kurt also made a custom bracket to mount the Dominator ECU up under the dash in a location that allows decent access to the various connectors that plug into the ECU. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...f309d960dd.jpg https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...1257313d5a.jpg I provided Kurt with template for additional wires and pin locations for each that needed to be added to the Dominator wiring harness (e.g., output for PWM control for fans, input for A/C compressor turning on, etc) as well as the digital dash wiring harness (turn signals, oil temp, power steering temp, high beam indicator, virtual switch for driving lights, etc.). Guys got most of those patched in as well. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...301fad72b8.jpg https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...89335d7a4a.jpg Rear bumper also polished and hung. We welded the mounting brackets to the back side of the bumper so no exposed bumper bolts. Tail lights in this picture are just for test fitting, they’ll be pulled out, lenses removed and painted black to match the bumpers and the rest of the trim. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...65de51a3b.jpeg Great to see meaningful progress each week! Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk |
Good news on the clutch fix! It's coming out great!!
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Looks great!!
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Fantastic build and tons of great info.
btw I love the redo on the steering wheel Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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Thanks! Minor issues, but new clutch should be even better than the Katech unit. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk |
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Thanks - much appreciated! Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk |
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Thanks! I’m really happy with the way the steering wheel turned out! Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk |
Progress continues... remaining trim pieces have been painted and assembly started on some of them.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...bb678d92bd.jpg https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...f3d60984fe.jpg We also have brakes and lines installed... look great with the rims! https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...7df5a7677e.jpg https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...23e6ce98e7.jpg https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...c98a96bcae.jpg https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...44d00e367c.jpg https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...37e68587bb.jpg https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...df2ac34df8.jpg https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...5cd63302c.jpeg Front end should go on soon, and will test fit lines for oil cooler and power steering cooler, as well as catch can, radiator and A/C lines. We’ll then send the radiator out for powder coating. Fuel tanks and lines to follow shortly... Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk |
We had another minor issue pop up when attempting to test fit oil cooler connections on the Mast oil pan with header clearance for my Ultimate headers, which fit pretty tight against the block to clear DSE subframe. The Mast pan has provisions for built in oil cooler fittings using their 90 degree adaptors. Unfortunately, those adaptors didn’t provide enough clearance and hit the headers. In discussing with Mast, we were able to make another, lower profile 90 degree fitting work in the front port, but the fitting on the rear port was still a little too close for comfort with the headers tightened down.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...08fff98d6e.jpg
I ended up having to abandon the use of the Mast circuitry altogether and bought a sandwich style unit from Moroso which will allow us plenty of clearance for the lines and filter should still sit flush with the bottom of the oil pan. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...f45859b14f.jpg Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk |
‘63 Chevy II Pro-Touring Build
10 Attachment(s)
Stopped by the shop today to check out progress on the Nova and work through some questions on wiring with Kurt and his team. They’re nearly finished with the wiring, and doing a great job of routing the wiring and plumbing neatly and out of sight. A/C, heater hoses and heater control valve all hidden under the passenger inner fender well. The heater hoses and A/C hoses that are shown in the pictures routed into the engine compartment aren’t yet cut and fit to the water pump and A/C compressor. Once those are fit, we will secure those hoses and route them more neatly into the engine compartment.
Attachment 73044 Attachment 73045 The pulse width modulation fan control module is also mounted under the passenger inner fender well, as is the A/C drier. The output from the PWM fan control module is wired into a really slick Spal harness that splits the single set of output wires to the fan into two sets of outputs to feed each of the Spal fans, all using Spal wiring connectors. The dual wiring harness is fed through the inner fender well at the base of the radiator and plugs into the fans along the bottom of the radiator - barely visible in the engine compartment. Attachment 73046 Attachment 73047 Wiring is all ready to go for headlights, parking lights, etc. The headlights are LED with halos. The halos function as daytime running lights and are white, except when you use the turn signals, when the halos flash amber with the turn signals. A little tricky to figure out the wiring as the instructions weren’t very good, but we got it figured out. Attachment 73048 Attachment 73049 The A/C condenser is mounted nicely and A/C lines will be run discretely through core support. Once all of the A/C lines to the condenser, as well as oil cooler and power steering cooler hoses have been measured and fit to the radiator, we’ll pull the radiator and have it powder coated (except for the core itself). Hood latch still needs to be painted... Attachment 73050 Holley engine harness is connected, but hidden nicely under fuel rail covers. Engine bay is really clean. We need to powder coat the air intake, which isn’t shown here, but first need to weld in a bung for PCV connection. Attachment 73051 Attachment 73052 View from driver’s side inner fender well. Attachment 73053 Kurt was working on installation of Rick’s tank and VaporWorx PWM fuel control module as I was leaving. Hope to have that installed tomorrow. Great to see continued progress! Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk |
‘63 Chevy II Pro-Touring Build
10 Attachment(s)
Made a trip to Eau Claire recently to meet with Kurt and check out some nice progress on the Nova. Wiring is basically finished up, but for a few items that will require mock up of center console (e.g., power window and lock switches). Kurt got the Vaporworx PWM fuel pump module mounted in the trunk (wiring is nice and tidy), along with the battery and the II Much fuel vent.
Attachment 73195 Attachment 73196 Attachment 73197 The headlights are also mounted and wired up. These headlights are LED units with halos. The halos shine white most of the time, so they serve as daytime running lights when headlights are off. When the headlights are on, I can either leave the halos on or switch them off - I have them wired to a virtual switch on the Holley pro dash. When turn signals are activated, however, the halos shine amber and blink with the turn signals. Pretty cool, and excited to see them in action. Attachment 73198 Attachment 73199 Attachment 73200 We also got the radiator back from powder coating and it turned out great! We powder coated the tanks, top, bottom and sides. The fins weren’t powder coated in traditional way, but coated in a very thin coat of similar color to ensure no degradation of thermal transmission of the fins. We still need to deal with the radiator cap. We didn’t want to coat the cap as it has a rubber gasket that we were concerned about putting in the oven as part of the curing process. Instead, we’re going to have the cap coated with Cerakote, a product similar to a powder coat, but thinner and can be air cured rather than oven cured. Attachment 73201 Attachment 73202 We also got the catch can mounted. Went with a Mighty Mouse catch can. Will connect via a -8AN adaptor on the valve cover oil filler. We had to modify the fuel rail cover - drilled a hole and will connect a 90 degree elbow fitting with push lock hose that will connect to the catch can. Other line out of the catch can will plug into nipple on the intake manifold. Attachment 73203 Kurt had moved the Nova on to a four post lift as we’ll be working on the exhaust next. Was cool to get under the car and see some of the work close up. QA1 carbon fiber driveshaft installed, and good look at the aluminum center section 9 inch rear end. Attachment 73204 https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...c50bd1347c.jpg Was able to get a few pics of the inner wheels.. calipers clear, but not by much! https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...24da2afb99.jpg https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...4918bdbc9b.jpg Got a nice view of some of the wiring that was done under the car. I mentioned previously that the C6 Corvette PWM fan unit is wired with a nice splitter harness from Vintage Air that splits the output signal from the fan control unit in two into pigtails that plug directly into the Spal fan pigtail harnesses. Works awesome... we will need to secure the harnesses so that they don’t block the air flaps in the shroud, but is super clean. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...1990347cac.jpg I also installed multiple temperature sensors to monitor oil temps and power steering fluid temps. My C&R radiator has oil and power steering coolers. We wired in temperature sensors in the input and output lines so that we can monitor oil and power steering fluid temps as they enter the cooling unit and after they exit the cooling unit. Because these all feed the digital dash (rather than a physical gauge), it is easy and inexpensive to monitor this data in a digital environment where you don’t need physical gauges. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...e509b6dd3c.jpg https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...ae47a1847b.jpg A couple of under car shots where you can see where we will run the exhaust from the headers... https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...c0c816a703.jpg https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...3ba79be300.jpg For exhaust, I’m using Spintech oval tubing from the headers to an X-pipe to their 3000 series mufflers. The oval tubing is 3 1/2” wide and 2 1/4” tall, and the equivalent to 3” round tubing. The oval tubing will give us a little more ground clearance to tuck the exhaust up tighter to the floors. The mufflers are oval inlets and 3” round outlets. The round tubing will exit the mufflers and go over the rear end, angle toward the back corner of the rear of the car (the fuel tank has clipped corners) and will exit near the rear bumper. System will be Tig welded together but for a handful of V band clamps to take it off in sections. Once completed, we’ll coat the exhaust black. You can see one of the mufflers, the X-pipe and other oval tubing in the photo below. The exhaust components are sitting on lift in front of the rear tire. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...1f0838b8b5.jpg A handful of shots of the Nova on the lift. First time it’s had front fenders on it in a long, long time. Kurt adjusted the front shocks and the rake is pretty close... looks great! We’ll tweak it again after all fluids are in and weight is settled in. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...cd57b665e4.jpg https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...7dbd18c65a.jpg https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...86f9c71758.jpg https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...40801c8334.jpg https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...7b1368229c.jpg Great to see the continued progress! PFTE fuel line should be in this week and will be installed. Also, as mentioned above, exhaust will be a priority this week as well. Stay safe, Brian Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk |
Fantastic build Brian. The car looks amazing. I have been watching it come together and taking notes as I’m building a 63’ myself.
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Thanks for the kind words... following your build thread as well... lots of great work and parts coming together on your ‘63! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
4 Attachment(s)
Got a few pictures from Kurt showing some progress made on the exhaust this week. Front part of the exhaust pretty much done and TIG welded together... and were starting on the pipes from the mufflers to the tailpipes.
Attachment 73248 Attachment 73249 Attachment 73250 Kurt also got the front bumper polished and hung... Attachment 73251 I’m going to try to stop by the shop early next week to check out progress in more detail. Kurt said they also got the rear sway bar mounted, the fuel lines run from the tank up to the motor, as well as fuel filler neck and fuel cap. Guys were also working on exhaust from mufflers to tailpipes today, and hopefully will have that finished up early next week. Stay safe, Brian Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
very nice exhaust work, Nova floor pans are not very friendly for keeping exhaust up nice and tight.
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Thanks - we’re really trying to keep the exhaust tucked up tight so you don’t see it. Coating it black when done will help, too Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk |
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Stopped by the shop yesterday and was able to check out recent progress... exhaust is mostly complete, though I don’t like the way the tailpipes are routed, so we need to re-do those, which shouldn’t be a big deal. Here are some pictures I took of exhaust - I’m using 3 1/2” oval pipes (equivalent in flow to 3” round pipe) from headers through X-pipe to Spintech mufflers. The mufflers have oval inlets and round outlets, so easy transition to 3” round pipe from the muffler on back, since the round pipe is much easier to snake above rear suspension and around fuel tank.
Attachment 73275 Attachment 73276 Attachment 73277 Kurt modified the transmission cross member slightly. The change kept the transmission mount height exactly where it was, but elevated the sides of the mount about an inch, which gave us another inch or so clearance to tuck the oval tubing closer to the floor. Attachment 73278 Attachment 73279 Attachment 73281 Transition from muffler to tailpipes are made with V-band clamps right off the muffler. Attachment 73280 From there, exhaust snakes up and over axle and QuadraLink, and around fuel tank. Attachment 73282 Attachment 73283 Attachment 73284 As I mentioned above, the tail pipes are tacked together and currently turn to the side and dump behind each rear wheel. I really don’t like this look, so we’re going to re-do this portion. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...64436a21b4.jpg https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...2ad4ecda15.jpg https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...4ff3556ab7.jpg https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...7545c51a05.jpg https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...4ac5bbd4a6.jpg There is plenty of space to turn the tailpipes up and run them inside the rear quarter panels, above the pinch weld, so they can’t be seen from the side of the car. Below are some photos of what I have in mind from a nice ‘67 Chevy II exhaust project detailed on Steve’s nova site forum. Pipes will turn down and exit toward the ground near corners of rear bumper with everything up above the bottom edge of the rear quarter panel. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...b4e47b178c.jpg https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...51815e72c6.jpg Guys have most of the brake lines finished up in the rear and working on running them to the master cylinder. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...2f54789fe0.jpg https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...800eb76a54.jpg https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...8362f0ed0d.jpg Got a nice picture of the wiring and plumbing for the Vaporworx PWM fuel pump controller while I was crawling around under the car :) https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...a457d1bd99.jpg https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...08272371be.jpg For fuel line, I ordered some carbon lined PTFE hose from TechAFX, which is available in a cool, matte black finish. The finish is similar to regular black radiator hose and will match the hoses I’m using throughout the engine compartment (radiator hoses, push-lock hoses for catch can and PCV system, etc). Below shows the hose connected to fuel rail. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...a7d5d0bca2.jpg I have a fuel pressure gauge set up in my Holley digital dash, so I needed a sending unit plumbed into the system. Wanted to measure pressure as close to the fuel rail as possible, but keep it hidden. We were originally thinking we would plumb it under the car near firewall; however, we were able to plumb the port for the sensor right off of the fuel rail itself, and have the sending unit and related wiring all fit under the fuel rail cover so it is completely out of sight. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...8b5892fea8.jpg We’ll get the tailpipes redone this week and Kurt is also going to modify the hood latch for a remote hood release. We’re following a mod done by some others over on Steve’s nova site. The hood latch mechanism has two releases - first, it releases the hood lock and then as you pull the lever further, it releases the safety latch. You can modify the latch so the lever behind the grill only releases the safety latch. You then fab a bracket and have the hood lock operated by a cable mounted under the dash. That way, unless you’ve first released the hood lock via the cable in the car, the lever behind the grill doesn’t do anything when you pull on it. Take care, Brian Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk |
‘63 Chevy II Pro-Touring Build
Spent 1/2 a day with Kurt on Wednesday. Progress on the Chevy II continues... a lot of little things are being completed. Kurt got the exhaust completed, including revised location of tailpipe exits.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...ff8718355e.jpg https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...8b3b8d29da.jpg I had the exhaust ceramic coated black at Race Coatings in Forest Lake and brought back to Kurt Wednesday when I visited. We mounted the front section while I was there, but didn’t get a picture while the car was up on the lift. Tailpipes will be installed soon and I’ll have pics of it installed. Kurt’s also installing stereo system as part of wiring project. The head unit, amp and sub are mounted in the trunk under the package shelf. Installing 5.25” speakers in the door and 6x9” speakers in the package shelf. Both sets of speakers are installed from behind to make it easier/cleaner when interior is installed. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...32a0ca70bd.jpg Kurt finished the modification to the hood latch. Now, the lever behind the grill only controls the safety latch. The hood lock is controlled by cable remotely mounted under the dash. When that lever is pulled, it releases the hood lock and the hood catches on the safety latch. You can then pull the lever under the dash to release the safety latch and open the hood. Kurt fabricated a small pulley to route the cable through a 90 degree angle, all of which is hidden. The finished product is indistinguishable from stock, but provides additional security and piece of mind. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...5768233d4f.jpg https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...cf0b09acf9.jpg Kurt also got looms installed to hide wiring for power door locks and windows as well as speaker wires. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...cef5bcff0f.jpg LED interior light installed. Received replacement headliner (originally ordered a dark gray (graphite) suede headliner, but color was way lighter than shown on website. New black color will look much better. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...5a2ceaa3e5.jpg Alarm for the security system installed under driver’s side fender...https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...dcbe22f0ca.jpg Ordered up new dash knobs from Dutch Boys, which look awesome and will compliment other metal items in the interior that are combination of black and machined aluminum edging (shift lever, turn signal lever, etc.) https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...3de783e759.jpg Overflow tank for the radiator hidden behind grille but in front of core support... https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...d5315c65ff.jpg Found some radiator hoses with correct angles and distances, the guys trimmed them up and now fit like they were custom made for the car. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...1794f313d5.jpg Kurt is going to work on the headlight bezels so that they line up with the fenders a little better. After those adjustments, we’ll paint them black to match the rest of the front end parts. The rest of the front end is pretty much done - fender extensions are installed, as well as the grille and parking lights. I used ‘62 parking light lenses, which are clear rather than the amber colored lenses that were used on ‘63 models. The clear lenses look much better with the gray and black colors of the car. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...ea0261c953.jpg https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...b0814f6937.jpg https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...ab45d2f372.jpg Kurt and I also spent a couple of hours mocking up a custom center console that he’ll build. Sides of the console will be made from wood and covered in leather. Console will include A/C vents, Vintage air climate controls, custom switches for power windows and door locks and a couple of cup holders with white led lighting. Other items the team will be working on: installation of black suede headliner, install windshield and rear windows, install tailpipes, install emergency brake cables and mount hand brake, and install fuel cap and filler tube to tank. Stay safe, Brian Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk |
Man that thing is sweet. I tried to find a link to where you got the dash knobs as I think they would go well in my Chevy II. How did you order those I cant find them anywhere. Thanks.
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Great build! Thanks for all the detailed pics and info.
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Nice update Brian. I had been anxiously waiting. Ready for Christmas? Where did you source the interior light?
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‘63 Chevy II Pro-Touring Build
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Thanks! I looked all over trying to find knobs that I liked. Ridetech used to make knobs that I really liked that looked similar to these from Dutchboys, but they discontinued them a few years ago and I’ve never been able to locate any. I stumbled upon these from Dutchboys a few weeks ago on one of the forums where someone recommended them for someone else’s build. Glad I saw the post, as I really like these and think they’ll compliment the rest of my interior. Here is the link to where to purchase. I just ordered mine a few weeks ago, but their webpage now shows them as being sold out - hopefully just temporary... I’d give them a call and find out when they’ll have more in stock. Best, Brian http://www.dutchboyshotrods.com/onli...Kit-p175736154 Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk |
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Thanks - appreciate the kind words! Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk |
‘63 Chevy II Pro-Touring Build
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I wish it would be ready for Christmas! I’ll be happy if Kurt is done with his work by the end of January, and we can get it to the interior shop so they can complete their work, and then get it dyno tuned and ready for the road by the time spring rolls around here in MN (say May 1). We still need to get it running and trouble shoot any issues (there is a lot of wiring in this thing!), but definitely getting closer... when we mocked up the console on Wednesday, we put the front seats in it to test positioning of the console and hand brake - made me really anxious sitting in the driver’s seat! I picked up the led interior light on eBay... was a little unsure when I ordered it, but Kurt raved about it when it showed up at the shop, and we ordered two more to mount one on each side of the center console as courtesy lights. It has a nice little billet aluminum housing. Here’s the link: https://www.ebay.com/itm/LED-Billet-...-/253772095609 Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk |
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Thanks! The air flaps in the shrouds are just part of the standard Spal shroud system. The fans are part of a dual 11” unit, with each unit having three air flaps above and three air flaps below, the fan itself. Makes all the sense in the world to have those flaps so air can move freely through the shroud when you’re at speed and the fans aren’t running. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...274ebe897d.jpg Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk |
Brian Brian Brian,
WOW this car keeps getting better and better and better. So now that we see all the work you have done so far. I feel we need to know more of what your plans are with the interior. |
Nice and clean, love how modern factory it looks with everything tucked in and not hanging out.
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Hey Marty, Thanks for the kind words... my plans for the interior aren’t too crazy. I’m aiming for an interior that is a nice balance between function and good looks, but also some cool subtle details. My first objective was to get rid of the stock gauge pod and replace it with something more fitting of a pro-touring car. I considered fabricating a new gauge pod that could hold an assortment of proper analog gauges; however, there isn’t a lot of space in a first generation Nova dash. I decided to incorporate Holley’s new 12.3” digital dash, which offered the ability for various dash layouts, all with the swipe of a finger - you can swipe between dash layouts by swiping the touchscreen, just like a smart phone. I was able to customize my dash layout by adding digital gauges and read outs to reflect whatever info I wanted to display that was captured by my Dominator ECU, or that I fed into the digital dash. Below is the base layout that was embedded in the dash. I had a graphics designer modify the template by changing the boost gauge in the Holley template to an oil temp gauge (cost $50 on Etsy)... https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...2b842872d1.jpg We fabricated the dash to mount the Holley digital dash in place of the stock gauge pod... https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...01e1acc83c.jpg https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...513e7aa192.jpg Replaced keyed ignition with push button start and keyless locks, similar to newer cars (digital guard dawg)... https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...58a02b8f0d.jpg Front seats are Recaro LS-C seats from some model of early 80’s Volkswagen, which were rebuilt and recovered in black leather with diamond pattern. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...a1c492388c.jpg For backseat, I’m using an early 2000’s rear seat from a BMW 3 series, which fits very nicely. Almost perfect width (the photo below doesn’t show the panels that cover the wheel wells and will need to be trimmed a bit)... purchased on eBay for $175... Interior shop will recover the rear seat to match the front seats (I purchased an extra hyde of leather from the guy who did my front seats in order to match the rear seats) https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...0e38967baa.jpg We’re building a center console to house A/C vents, vintage air controller, power window and door switches as well as cup holders. The console will look somewhat similar to the one in this very nice ‘63 Chevy II. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...84b183262f.jpg Momo steering wheel that I had recovered in same leather as my front seats, and added red stripe at 12 o’clock, as well as red stitching... https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...3432f3d793.jpg https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...c77f10257f.jpg I’m having custom door panels made by the interior shop I’m working with... again, nothing too crazy, but will incorporate arm rests into the door panels. The headliner is black suede and the center console and door panels will be some combination of leather and suede to match the seats and headliner. I’m also using Clayton Machine Works door and window handles, and pedal covers; as well as matching shifter and steering column levers. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...b2a797a5fb.jpg https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...82cbf18142.jpg https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...916e8ccc98.jpg https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...6b78675f53.jpg Will add custom black carpet and some black anodized sill plates. The stereo and amp will be mounted in the trunk behind the rear seat, completely hidden and controlled via RF remote. Speakers are mounted in the front doors and rear package shelf, as well as an 8” subwoofer mounted in the trunk. Thanks! Brian Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk |
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