Love the white, but then again, I loved Camaro X in white...apparently that makes me weird, I’m ok with that :)

Don’t encourage him !!!


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Finally some :drama: around here...lol

Send me a larger res version of that for your website please. :hello:

White is Sooooo underrated...
Good for you!

BUT, who are you going with for the paint? (Or are you still getting quotes?)

JD

Thank you for the response. Love the rendering.

Back to your clutch pedal, are you going to fab up some kind of stop so it doesn't over travel? Just curious to see your design for that.

John

You know, a pearl white would look great in my opinion. I, too, loved Camaro X. Though, I think Mayhem is my favorite of your builds.

I want to continue my relationship with the Dutchboys. Paul and Joe are great guys and have painted my last 4 cars. Their team is top notch. They understand I beat the crap out of my cars.

The reason I’m painting it white is so it is easy to fix. All the rock chips and track rash will be easier to touch up. So straight white a OE color so I can fix it.

Mark


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I use the floor as a pedal stop. I adjust it to get full stroke right before it hits the floor.

I have never sorted out a clean stop other than the floor.

Mark


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Sled Alley welded the adaptor to the firewall to close it out.

Totally filling all the holes and closing out the gaps around the clutch master cylinder adapter keeps the interior quieter and cooler in the summer.

The reason I set up the geometry for the clutch on the bench is once it is welded in it is hard to work on.

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Mark, your new website is very cool!

Thanks. Jody did it. Looks cool.


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Love the rendering; looks fantastic.

x 2...………………….

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Working on the dry sump tank science project. This gets hidden in the passenger fender in the cowl area.

We run -8 lines off the valve covers to a -10. That runs to the top of the dry sump tank. Then the dry sump tank vents through a Mann and Hummel Air oil separator. The 5/8 line coming off the air oil separator runs to the induction tube.

The tall cylinder mounted to the dry sump tank is the transmission expansion tank. I run the vent line off the trans to the bottom of that tank. During open track days I have seen the transmission push out fluid when it is hot. Makes a mess. So now we add an expansion tank. Fluid get hot gets pushed into tank then drains back into trans when it cools.




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We duplicated that setup on a LT4 after seeing it on Gunner.....which way is the arrow pointing on the Mann Hummel separator?

Thanks for taking the time to post this. I know people like pictures, but the technical side of things is what interests me about anyone's build threads.

This...
The explanation behind is so appreciated. It helps those that aren't 'in the know' get a better idea of how things can be improved. Of course pics also help see details that push others builds to new & better levels of execution.

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Camaro LT5
 

The reason the tank has the extra volume added is because the oil level has to be checked with a dip stick. To make the system less sensitive to oil level we add an extra 2 quarts to the system.

This is the 4th car we have done this modification to and it works great. The only big issue is if you have an issue with it to service it.

Now I pressure test all tanks and hoses prior to assembly. Save a lot of time to fix it before it is buried in a fender.


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Ask him how he knows this. :D

How do you know this, Mark?!

Great stuff as always. I really enjoy learning and reading about the technical aspects of it too. Thanks for taking the time.

I had a dry sump tank leak on Hellfire. Had to pull the fender to fix it. Kinda of a bummer.


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Hi Mark, I have a question regarding your choice of engine management.

I know you're an engineer for GM so I can see why you'd favor the factory ECM's, but have you ever considered something like a Holley Dominator or HP or even the new Terminator system for one of your builds?

Can you explain why you use the factory ECM?

I'm at a point in my build where I'm looking at this and I'm torn on what to do after seeing all the success you've had running factory ECM's. I was looking in to a Holley Dominator for my LS7 because I needed DBW control and wanted to keep 2 O2 sensors, which you can only run 1 with the Terminator. I think the Dominator would be overkill really for my setup with endless inputs and outputs that I'll never really use. I just think if it works for you, it must work for me.

Would just like your insight.

Thanks,

John

John

I have been a fan of the GM controllers for most of my recent build for a few reasons. Refinement of calibration, and familiarity. The E67 used by the LS9 was used for a long time and was a very refined package. We have refined the 427 LS9 package for 10 years and over 30 engines. That package is sorted!

If the engine stays relatively stock the OE controllers work great with tools like HP Tuners. My buddy Dave Mikels tuned all this packages and continues to make them better.

I'm moving toward a hybrid set up on my LT5 do to the fact the GM ECMs will not do what I want to do. The aftermarket has made big gains in the last few years in refinement. I know as I move into a new control system we will have some learning curve. As a GM engineer I like things refined. Holes in an engine calibration bug me.

Mark

The DSE sub from has a divot in it to clear a dry sump LS7 oil pan. Works good for that the LT4s and LT5s have the drain plug in a slightly different spot. So the guys at Sled Alley moved it.

People ask me why do you keep building 69 Camaro. I just keep on refining them. I missed this detail on Gunner with the LT4. I’m fixing it this time.

Bugged me every time I had to do an oil change.

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Hi Mark. So what controller are you using?

Thanks,
Don

I’m using two. The GM E92 to control most engine functions plus a Holley (TerminatorX) piggyback ECM to control the extra 8 PFI injectors and the electronic bypass valve.

It is a bit of a science fair project but allows access to the functions we want.

More to come when we get on dyno.

Mark


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Thank you for the response. I'm familiar with Dave and his wealth of knowledge from reading the thread on PWM control. The man definitely knows a thing or two about these ECM's.

Keep us updated every step of the way! My Dorman MC arrives tomorrow! 👍🏼

Ok so now I am confused. Are you replacing the direct injection with port injection or are you using both which sounds a little mind boggling.

Thanks,
Don

The LT5 uses both kinds of injectors. I think the DI injectors run out of steam at a certain power level and the port injectors supplement them.

The GM LT4 ECM (E92) will control all the functions like DI injectors, timing, throttle. The Holley piggy back will add PFI injectors and a PWM bypass valve in the blower to control boost.

The stock LT5 use 2 ECMs from the factory. A E99 and a S53 ECMs. The issue with the LT5 set up is fairly locked up and does not have the flexibility we want.


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So would the direct injection be a MAF based system and the port injection speed density? I’ll bet it will be fun keeping the two systems stable and playing well with each other. Sorry for all the questions. Just find it interesting.

Thanks,
Don

Regarding the induction tube attachment, understanding that Mann Hummel -10 line should be downstream of the MAF, have you found there to be an better attachment angle/arrangement? A "T" with the -10 hose connection at an angle to the airflow + away from the short radius bends? I'm finding a larger fresh air vent is needed to help keep the oil clean vs. the stock 3/8" lines.

Hey Mark,

What mufflers do you intend to use? In the past I’ve heard several of your cars in person Mule, Jackass 1.0, Red Devil and Hellfire. If I remember correctly several of those ran the Borla XR1?

I’m at the exhaust stage on my project and want ZERO drone and mild sound as you seem to want.

Great question. I have a set of prototype mufflers coming from Hooker to try.

I want the same thing you do, fairly quite and no drone at 70 - 80 mph.

I’ll post on how they work and if Hooker is going to make them.

Mark


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Heavy fab work. Adding a diff cooler. The Gen 5 ZL1 uses a oil to oil diff cooler. The transmission has a transmission oil pump in it. Pump the trans fluid to the radiator, through a oil to water oil cooler then to the diff thought a oil to oil cooler. The the fluid returns to the transmission. I’ll use a stand alone electric transport oil pump to circulate the fluid.

I repurposed the diff cooler to my GearFX housing. Made a steel box out of 3/16 mild steel (In hindsight 1/8 might be ok). Hogged out a big hole making sure the cooler clears the center section. Weld it all back together. The 3/16 plate did not warp when I welded it.

I did the same modification to Hellfire and Jackass. I did not add this to Gunner and I could over temp the diff in 4 20 min track sessions.

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Thanks for the response Mark.

Any hints on the type? Straight through, Turbo or Chambered?

Thanks

Interested in those new mufflers as well.

I love the sound of the Borlas. Did you run any type of resonator with your previous builds Mark? Before or after the muffler?

Thanks!

Not sure yet.

Mark


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Yes resonators before the mufflers.

If you want to get what was on Gunner Hooker sells it.

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