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now in aluminum
https://i.imgur.com/97vZWS5h.jpg but wait, there's more https://i.imgur.com/grgNNbih.jpg then load up and go https://i.imgur.com/YsCZzTPh.jpg to here https://i.imgur.com/WI6QG2Zh.jpg with a brief stop to see parents - and their Corvette https://i.imgur.com/3nGGkBBh.jpg Did SCCA Track Night in America at PIR. that was fun, car stayed together and seems ready to run at Optima. Exhaust was quiet enough that I may remove the cones - then if there's a problem, just reinstall them. They kind of kill top end speed... but the rule is this - they give you a warning, then you can fix it, and it's fine, but you have to tell them what you did.... so if the cones aren't there and it's too loud, I'll know that by putting them back in that I'll be okay.... and wow is that concrete slick at PIR. |
Narrowing in on ready
first remove the baffles. https://i.imgur.com/2uU43MFh.jpg I think they do affect top end power... we will see brief break to let the lab float https://i.imgur.com/oIcH4EIh.jpg happy lab https://i.imgur.com/L28dKJ8h.jpg so remade the optima brackets https://i.imgur.com/bjYYfxdh.jpg before https://i.imgur.com/BhLLpbDh.jpg with tall stands https://i.imgur.com/a3yMNnNh.jpg with the new stands https://i.imgur.com/5RMD314h.jpg other then cleaning the car is ready to go.... next up fix the ac problems (or lack of ac) in the motorhome, and install tie-down plates in the trailer |
and, we're loaded (Luigi is coming with).
weirdest thing, the trailer I bought for moving... https://i.imgur.com/Fd1z5AFh.jpg fits the Corvette just fine. boy was I lucky :) https://i.imgur.com/HEho5Q6h.jpg Lots more ready this year.... Optima 2022... a brief recap since I wasn't here last year. I busted tail to get to Optima 2021. I made it. I got there and cell phone reception doomed my event. My head wasn't there - so anyway - I had another dog last year, an English Mastiff named Buick. The night before I went, I had to put him down. Still miss that lug, but this year, at least I should have a time in every event. Do I think I'll win or even place? nope. But I will do each event.... I also have an ace card - my parents live close-ish to PIR and if something does go wrong, I have a full fab shop available.... |
everyone likes pictures... so we start there....
https://i.imgur.com/j7v9197h.jpg Chad won and was a neighbor in the parking lot. https://i.imgur.com/RMYuiach.jpg what a trip the filming is. I may end up nowhere on it (kind of doubtful because I had cameras on my car pretty much the entire time) - but I seriously think one of the biggest boosts I got was from that whole thing.... I know all you experienced racers don't think anything of it - but to me that was as much a trip as sliding out of the box on the stop challenge (oops).... So in other news... the car. It still runs. but, I need better tires - I finally saw how they could help, but I'll also say that up and until now, they would have been pearls before pigs... it ran. But I knocked off after completing all the first rounds because I was getting concerned that it's dropping a cylinder. I cannot afford a new motor this year, much as I'd love to have stayed 3 more hours and ran.... The clutch.... ugh. Even at the low power, doing the last challenge - the accel/braking session, the clutch started to slip. I don't know what to do about this, that clutch is supposed to be able to handle the power.... but the bbc torque? yeah. Maybe I should bandaid it with 3.73 gears? then the tires would go up in smoke before the clutch did.... |
so the list
https://i.imgur.com/eMCq32Hh.jpg I need to find 200 tw tires and the clutch is "check".... it should be okay, but then again, it was getting funky on the last brake portion..in all seriousness, I should put a 3.73 rear gear in the mirror won't stay aligned and I need a better rear view... so suggestions would be nice |
Pictures
Saturday night drive https://i.imgur.com/fQXR79Mh.jpg those cones never knew what hit them https://i.imgur.com/eMKsRLZh.jpg appropriately named "braking challenge" https://i.imgur.com/5TQp6nGh.jpg road course https://i.imgur.com/vHKOZ3Jh.jpg D&E https://i.imgur.com/z2xQMRvh.jpg |
time to start fixes, steering
https://i.imgur.com/6Nv7kBF.jpg fixed https://i.imgur.com/JQ2bptx.jpg with this https://i.imgur.com/oOoPRNm.jpg in other news, starting to put the lift in https://i.imgur.com/DJBaIxL.jpg the guy I bought the place from - this was his initial location before his business needed the space. https://i.imgur.com/xBTOfIg.jpg I think that makes the most sense. as I unpack I'm starting to be amazed at how much space I really have for activities.. |
Congrats on all you've accomplished so far this year. Good luck getting more seat time with the car. You're doing great
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Time to continue the upgrades....
a little rich and the plugs are too hot https://i.imgur.com/2lJ7ljph.jpg Of course, getting colder plugs requires ordering them.... also working on the alignment - the C5/C6 front suspension uses the typical GM cam bolts... and they can move... need to find a solution to this (and the stupid potato camera's inability to hold a steady shot) https://i.imgur.com/MwOljHah.jpg In other news, I'm also going to stiffen the front sway bar. The tire lift should never have happened - not just that but you can see the car does lean a bit into high speed corners.... |
Brown Santa arrived today
https://i.imgur.com/XOCNxfXh.jpg 18x10, 18x12.5 https://i.imgur.com/HAcTQL6h.jpg poor fgz, they're still too big for him. forged, light weight https://i.imgur.com/cpICrFih.jpg Apex gave me a deal on them, basically I paid the cast price for these (actually, a little less)... thanks Apex |
potato camera for the blur again
stock clearance https://i.imgur.com/9y7KLyeh.jpg new wheel clearance https://i.imgur.com/tlQAiaIh.jpg rear stock https://i.imgur.com/PZizw6Ih.jpg rear new https://i.imgur.com/JVjk1irh.jpg I know this sounds really dumb but I'm going to cut and widen the front fenders to put larger tires on it. The bright side is I know how to do this so it'll only cost me time and materials. right now, it's about 1/2" outside the fender on the stock side and 1" on the new side. With the changes I'm going to make the control arms, I'll have about 1/2 of that solved but I want 315 front tires, not 275. Bright side is I'll 'fix' the paint flaws the painter did when I do this and resolve a couple other paint issues... thankfully it's black and really easy to match |
Tires... I can't do it. I keep trying to convince myself to either go square or go with the slicks as a rear tire - all to get a 200tw tire. I'm sorry, but 10% more contact patch should easily equal any 'better' traction I get from the smaller, narrower tire.
... the comparison the left is what's on the car now https://i.imgur.com/ghSNie4h.jpg now a 325 v. 345..... while I know what I just said above there is a 200tw tire from continental, problem is the rear is a 345 not 325. https://i.imgur.com/K9l0Etih.jpg not bad until you realize that where it doesn't really fit would be nearly impossible to make a decent-looking flare https://i.imgur.com/I4VqmNkh.jpg I hate to say it but either I'm going with a right size tire and the wider front (which is where most of the problem lay) in a 340 or so tw.... but now that that's out there - talk me out of it.... in other news, rear, adjustable sway bar from UMI https://i.imgur.com/tGClN5Eh.jpg and new Hotchkis for the front... https://i.imgur.com/F21h3MZh.jpg and new gears... 3.91s (not 3.73 as previously reported).... I know, I know, I wasn't thrilled with them in the 06 GTO I had, but I think this is different because bigger tire, more hp and lighter car. At this point, 2000 rpm in 5th gear is 85 mph.... and I'm frying the clutch taking off from a standing start.... bonus is big smoke shows. https://i.imgur.com/WTzF5Wwh.jpg https://i.imgur.com/WBuGkXLh.jpg and adding a cooler to the rear diff https://i.imgur.com/8XSC4yXh.jpg what is wrong with me? (rhetorical, sit down FGZ)... I won't spend the dollars to toss the lunchbox lockers out of my FJ40 but will spend it to upgrade to a geared limited slip in the C3? https://i.imgur.com/GDcPYXfh.jpg |
So I'm tired of relying on people to do ring and pinion swaps for me. Now is an optimal time to learn
https://i.imgur.com/WTzF5Wwh.jpg mark the caps https://i.imgur.com/Zr1rnVqh.jpg get caps off https://i.imgur.com/1HwCHgVh.jpg spend rest of night looking for pry bars... moving is SO much fun.... *and in case any of you are silly enough to follow my instructions, this is, if I count all of the ones I've done in my life... is the first. I did try once before but I couldn't get the gears to give a good pattern. Turns out I did it right but the case was junk.... anyway, there's the warning |
it's out
https://i.imgur.com/YvC5yMFh.jpg A screwdriver in the hole and a couple hits of the pinion flange with a dead blow and out it came wow is that a lot of clutch debris..... |
I did SCCA track nights at PIR back in 2020 with my 67 Firebird, when I was still living there. Great times.
Nice work with the vette. I followed you over at ih8mud as well on the work on your 40 |
Time for plan C
https://i.imgur.com/1ejgq3ph.jpg 87k mile from a private seller. What a neat guy - 2 C2s, 1 C3, 1 C5, a 70 Chevelle (blown, of course), a Shelby Daytona (plastic), and on an on.... had a nice 4 hour drive (google, are you on crack? 6 hours?).... what was weird is it's like Google didn't want me to see the city center of Lewiston Idaho - it directed me everywhere but through the center of town.... other then that, it was a nice day for a drive... |
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and onward
step one, remove rack https://i.imgur.com/YQPwLyHh.jpg step two, install adapters https://i.imgur.com/iqbNDQqh.jpg step three, realize you're missing o-rings https://i.imgur.com/eV54Oeth.jpg step four through six.... look for o-rings, give up, order o-rings online.. step seven admire hole https://i.imgur.com/o8SLUDgh.jpg and least they look pretty there on the bench https://i.imgur.com/fbw2CpUh.jpg |
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It floors me when someone comments about the builds I do somewhere else but its main blog - especially because while I can conceptualize the idea that people have look at my '40 more then 295,000 times; It still surprises me that people recognize it in other places besides Mud. what is fun about my '40 is that this winter it'll be wheeling where I bought my first '40 30 years ago.... and where I gained my love of snow wheeling. |
As for the rear flare, why not just flare down to the side pipe and no more? It's race car, who cares if the flare looks great going around the side pipe. Just make it functional is my thought.
Good luck with the ring and pinion setup. For me, it's a very time consuming affair. I'm not experienced enough to make large changes. |
Today's news, no pictures. I sent the wheels back to Apex. To trade them for a wider front and a 19" rear. I really wanted the 18s around it but they simply don't have the tire selection available now.... The fronts, I didn't like the offset so basically I'm using a rear "stock Corvette" dimension for the front - which will give me a 295 front tire and 325 rear. Will still need to modify the front flares but not as drastic - add 1/2" or so per side.
Next up, install the gears, port EFI and new sidepipes. along with everything else I'm doing. Will be a busy off-season but hopefully next year I'll meet my goal of being competitive.... and, I was 'competitive' this year and did pretty well for a wet-behind-the-ears-rookie. What I did do this year was make some really good acquaintances who are really helping behind the scenes.... |
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I'm only chopping on the front flare - the biggest problem is it rubs now, front and rear... with the new wheels, I gain 3 mm in the rear (clearance) but to get a 295 on the front.... it already rubs with the 275 - and even with the rear Corvette offset (55 mm v. 36 mm now), it's still too wide. So that picture of the white car in the background. Just like my '40 evolved from a 'use what I have' to a linked 4x4, the Buick is as well.... originally, it was going to get some 33" slicks in the back and become a show car (chopped, sectioned, pancaked) - but someone I know has C6 parts.... I can't imagine it'd be competitive in Ax because she's a wide girl however, I think a 900 hp twin turbo Buick motor on a C6 chassis and leave the body alone is going to be just what the doctor ordered.... how does that relate? I'm nothing if not consistent in taking a solid plan then making it infinitely more complex.... but I'm going to try my best not to do that with that car.... wish me luck. |
boxes
https://i.imgur.com/DBC3CM0h.jpg winning https://i.imgur.com/i58BZknh.jpg basically, I'm using rears from a basic C6 on the front and a GS C6 on the rear https://i.imgur.com/DhqBrc3h.jpg 11" fronts, they 'just' clear on the inside on the upper control arm https://i.imgur.com/wYzURjmh.jpg I may have to do some work on the front flares to make it perfect but I can run it like this... we will see once I put the 295s on the front... I'm stoked. Next up is the headers and port efi....time to make this fast... I'm so thankful that Apex worked with me to get the right wheels. These are 1" wider in the front then what I got the first time around... I'll have these powder coated to match the 'street' wheels. |
Nice!! :thumbsup:
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more updates, the much anticipated Global West suspension upgrades arrived.... why did I wait when I could have paid less for others? well, glad you asked
https://i.imgur.com/jB5ahcNh.jpg this changes how you adjust the front suspension - it also allows you to narrow the track by 1/2", a real benefit if you're already considering whether or not you will have to reflare the car to fit better front tires. But I digress, these are the upper bushings, they're basically lubeable heims https://i.imgur.com/7j8EmQ3h.jpg also the way they go together makes it impossible for the upper control arm to move fore and aft (which they can in the stock setup) https://i.imgur.com/SMhzc6eh.jpg they also allow you to adjust camber by simply flipping the bit that bolts to the frame (the flats are ground off center) https://i.imgur.com/PpkS5xch.jpg they also eliminate the lower control arm cams (and replace the bushings with a lubeable delrin bushing) https://i.imgur.com/KQgH6LQh.jpg to remind, last time out, I pushed hard enough on the 340 tread wear tires to change the camber... and now I'm going 200 tread wear and 1" per side wider contact patch first step, picture for posterity https://i.imgur.com/2ETGhN8h.jpg https://i.imgur.com/S4rsOdah.jpg push out the upper bushings https://i.imgur.com/zmfuCj2h.jpg then realize I don't have green threadlock so take pictures of 7 month old, 87 lb bloodhound puppy and her sidekick, Luigi https://i.imgur.com/jVKnVaJh.jpg |
got a pleasant surprise today
https://i.imgur.com/SNlznVth.jpg not quite the same, but don't care https://i.imgur.com/Q3qrIWdh.jpg |
easiest way to get the upper ball joint off
https://i.imgur.com/SIvEZy5h.jpg drill and tap for grease zerts https://i.imgur.com/ePp3kWfh.jpg https://i.imgur.com/5uVqkr6h.jpg upper assembled https://i.imgur.com/zTgpiq7h.jpg and installed https://i.imgur.com/v1kotlDh.jpg and then onto the lower control arms https://i.imgur.com/iiWTetQh.jpg so I remember where it was set (it doesn't set on the lower control arm when this is done but this helps me align it later https://i.imgur.com/UI4mnMkh.jpg https://i.imgur.com/c6ooPMjh.jpg https://i.imgur.com/x8XHjOOh.jpg remove bushings https://i.imgur.com/KDIxuydh.jpg bushings removed https://i.imgur.com/FQ27P3Ph.jpg https://i.imgur.com/NDrWW5Dh.jpg no more rubber, delrin https://i.imgur.com/ByDS08vh.jpg nicely machined so they get fully lubed https://i.imgur.com/KunHHl9h.jpg a 'while I'm there' shaving just a bit off the new sway bar gives me clearance I need https://i.imgur.com/D4zTvyFh.jpg I really like the quality of the Global West parts. Yes, it took awhile (I ordered the day after PDX Optima - early July) but these are seriously nice parts. |
Had to build a gate so got delayed on working on the car
hard to believe it's $1600 if someone else builds it for you https://i.imgur.com/eFD1wlih.jpg In other news... mounted the tires to the track wheels, I'll have to weight them, they're substantially lighter https://i.imgur.com/HvNGgCgh.jpg the rears are the same size as what's already on there but the fronts https://i.imgur.com/habNhHKh.jpg 275/35zr18 v. 295/30zr18 - so shorter and wider.... but I think the same offset so, crossing fingers, no need to cut the flares and widen them https://i.imgur.com/duLmEsah.jpg anyway, got onto the car - should have taken more pictures and hit a slight snag.... I need it to go into the innermost 'spot' but something is preventing that from happening... https://i.imgur.com/fScY0Seh.jpg so I'll take it apart again and see what's up.... and the new rear end is ready to be picked up to be continued.... |
to remind... these weren't fitting
https://i.imgur.com/74P4yBph.jpg they do now https://i.imgur.com/7bz5raUh.jpg the problem (basically a burr) https://i.imgur.com/9Z7OOJhh.jpg after a bit of love with a die grinder https://i.imgur.com/uUNDH4jh.jpg ages ago I bought dies to port heads, I may have used them once for that but they are handy for things like this https://i.imgur.com/7fDEeoFh.jpg much much better https://i.imgur.com/7bz5raUh.jpg with the new wheels on it https://i.imgur.com/uGDRCl4h.jpg and they fit!!!! 1" wider tire - these rims - well all the rims are for the back tires of a C6. The front are stock C6, the rear are GS C6 https://i.imgur.com/dKWt5tgh.jpg these fit better then the GS wheels which are 1 1/2 inches narrower https://i.imgur.com/clSCYrzh.jpg tire/wheel weights stock GS front https://i.imgur.com/vz7g0a1h.jpg race GS about 4lb savings per wheel - granted, it's also a wider tire.... https://i.imgur.com/OeP7SJoh.jpg rear GS stock wheels https://i.imgur.com/APyM3vkh.jpg the most amazing, 10 lbs savings on each rear wheel https://i.imgur.com/JSnCtlbh.jpg tomorrow https://i.imgur.com/I7sYAl8h.jpg |
didn't get much time to work on it today, however, did get to checking the alignment.... 6* castor, 1.5 camber. great for a street car, I can flip the shims on the lower control arm to gain 1 degree of camber - which is about perfect for an autox
I'll take it https://i.imgur.com/X7SrCqjh.jpg |
I should use dzus fasteners to install this.... what is this, rear diff number 3?
https://i.imgur.com/CwIKoazh.jpg |
Nobody can say you just give up lol!
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what can I say? :lol:
nothing left to do it but do it.... https://i.imgur.com/flspy73h.jpg my 'stock' C3 rear suspension :) https://i.imgur.com/pitgMBYh.jpg old ready to drop https://i.imgur.com/IOYrix0h.jpg empty hole https://i.imgur.com/Wyjke2Ph.jpg getting back together https://i.imgur.com/hssjOA3h.jpg https://i.imgur.com/UzGEZ53h.jpg oil is in it, tomorrow I'll tighten everything back up - I also want the rear up about an inch... the 'to do' list: replace inside mirror with one that doesn't move under g-forces oil catch can do something about the center console - it's dropped and now is hit by the shifter get run it across a computerized alignment machine - which finding a shop to do it is a challenge... put it away - then collect parts for the port EFI, better headers and maybe build a spare motor. |
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and back on the ground.... I may have tightened the rear coil overs a bit too much but past experience says drive it a few times
https://i.imgur.com/PgwIcAAh.jpg https://i.imgur.com/SLkP1jRh.jpg I ordered a very cheap set of 304 stainless 16g shorty headers.... next up is build new headers. I also ordered a port efi intake manifold. I'm going to assemble it myself. I don't trust FiTech and the Holley does give enough fuel at full song. With that said, I may put this in its box after putting a solid heat cycle or two in the differential (and reset the speedo) |
It's been tucked into my enclosed trailer for a bit now, but collecting parts for the new updates.
1) port efi 2) coil-per cylinder 3) backup motor 4) better sidepipes okay.... so explain. I bought a Terminator X and have most of the parts to build the port efi/coil-per cylinder.... I've already sold the Sniper to the friend who I brought the BBC back from Reno.... and the sidepipes... he gets a great deal and I get not to deal with craigslist... win win so that's the first 2 I've been fighting the oil pressure problem - specifically, at idle it has 20 psi - all with a high volume - high pressure oil pump. In talking to people at SEMA (2 cam manufacturers and several engine builders - the only thing I haven't 'checked' is lifters... bbc, I guess, can have variance in lifter-bore height. Add to that some lifter manufacturers make their oil passage wider then others and you can have a perfect storm.... of course, the right thing to do is just build another motor....which a 4 bolt bbc fell into my lap along with forged pistons.... having a spare isn't a bad idea, either, so I'll use a lot of the parts I already have and build another motor. and sidepipes. this has been on my radar from the beginning but now I finally have the space, place, time and Summit had these sitting in their return pile.... cheap https://i.imgur.com/yFCsCeqh.jpg |
my winter project has been progressing - but it's not, really, something for the ultimate street car - though, this picture is because I bought new-to-me tires indirectly for it in the same town where I autox. These tires would have been appropriate when I was there...
I've always been amazed how big tires can make a POS truck look good... https://i.imgur.com/3urp344h.jpg Anyway, the reason for the post well, looks like we have the rules for 2023 Ultimate Street car (aka Optima Challenge) https://ultimatestreetcar.org/wp-con...gYNy5V6ZNVP6bg my to-do list isn't terrible but part of me wonders if I should just run as is because it will take 3 months to do them.... the list 1) change intake for port EFI 2) put different roller lifters in* 3) install Terminator X 4) Build better headers I should pull the motor and reseal the pan along with check clearances. *discussion of #2. I talked to several engine builders, cam manufacturers and lifter manufacturers (including Iskederian - the maker of the lifters)... and the deal is that short of pulling the motor completely apart - there was manufacturing tolerance on the lifter bore height which can sometimes run afoul of the lifter manufacturers. From memory - so some correction may be needed - there are 2 "factory dimensions" for the lifter bore height. They are 30 thou difference. Thus on huge cams, you run the risk of the lifter oil passage coming out of the lifter bore. That could, at idle, lower your oil pressure. I'm not convinced that the volume that bleed could create would be enough to be a problem, but if you stack that issue with bleed-off that Isky Red racing lifters put in place and suddenly you do have an issue. I also think the oil pickup - let's just say I have questions.... On my FJ40, I had a similar oil pressure problem. Same basic deal, factory set 'height' ... wasn't enough. Moved it to 1/2" off the floor and never had oil pressure problems since. and to be clear... 20 psi at idle hot.... it's enough but I think I want more and I want to run a thinner oil (30w now) |
So, update. There has been so much progress that was planned and not started.... but there IS news. First, I'm doing Optima at Thunderhill and Portland this year. Also, there is a possibility that I'll be on MAVtv Dec. 30 at 8 pm. I dunno, they asked lots of questions - but I dunno if it made it.
As far as the car, I'm likely going to open trailer enclosed trailer it to Thunderhill (between Sacramento and Redding CA). Motorhome isn't ready and I'm not sure I want to do a mid-winter drive over several mountain ranges - all with tight time constraints.... In other news, I think they changed the rules on the spoiler... so I'm going to have to rethink all of this.... part of me is considering just leaving the wing at home - OR - doing a (can't remember the term) a spoiler extension... the benefit of that is where the wing is at Optima heights is dead center of my rearview mirror.... use some plexiglass and that solves two problems.... love to hear thoughts.... |
preview of things to come
https://i.imgur.com/03cqc0Nh.jpg file this under "I can't believe that I'm making a spoiler for only 2 races" |
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