Certainly something to check first. When wiring I used the wire that previously powered the coil to ensure constant power. I also confirmed the power was live during cranking. The fact that I have spark proves the EFI harness has power as well. Goal is to get the ECM reflashed today. Hopefully the car will be running shortly

Hope you get all the issues sorted out, and have the car running soon.

IIRC the 67's didn't have IGN + power during cranking. They have an updated switch that has a second IGN + feed at the switch during cranking.

Im hoping its just in the software.

On my original harness, one of the 2 switched sources wasn't interupted that is the one I ended up using and it solved my problem. I ended up using a AAW update harness so that is all in the past. Sounds like you have figured it out. Good luck

No luck... Tuner flashed the correct program into the ECM. Got home and car is still dead. The cam code is now gone but that's all. It is still throwing the accelerator pedal code.

I hauled a** to Chevy just before they closed today and grabbed the Vette pedal they recommend. Apparently the pedal I have that i thought was for a Vette is from a Monte Carlo and has the 2 wires with a reverse pinout. Got home, plugged it in and still nothing. I'm at a total loss here.

I'm headed to the hardware store to get a decent volt meter to check the pink injector wire voltage. I'm told it is positive and the other colors are the ECM grounds to fire it.

Any other suggestions?

I would start with the connections that are related to the codes thrown.

But lets start at the beginning.

Are you leaving the main bat power connected? We had an issue with main power being disconnected then the pedal would have to relearn all over again...it would run in limp till the pedal learned then we would get pedal response.
We left the battery wire on then cycled the ignition power several times.

Are your fuses ok? Are your grounds tight? Have to watch out that your ground bolts that are too long and bottom before putting pressure on the eyelet.

Pull the connectors and inspect the PINs.

I have been turning off my master battery disconnect because over time it drains the battery. Sounds like I need to fix the battery drain the switch is causing.

Fuses have been checked many times. I just rechecked them again.

Grounds have been checked. I also added a jumper cable from the battery neg to the ground to make sure.

All ECM pins look good, I inspected them. The ECM connectors also look good but it's hard to tell if a connector may have pushed thru. I'll go thru and check the other connectors.



Since the issue seem to be with firing the injectors I check the voltages on the wires. Between the pink wire and a ground I have a solid 11.9 volts with ignition on and under cranking. On the other wire I tested from the injector to a positive source straight off the starter that power my fan relays. Ignition on it read 10.9v. When cranking it gradually dropped 9,8,7,2 until it was at 0v. After cranking it held at 0 for a few moments then went back to 10.9v Makes me think the ECM is either not grounded correctly or the injector output on the ECM is not working correctly.

It's a junk yard ECM that I was told was tested before they pulled it but perhaps not...Maybe I'll get another from a junk yard and see if it works.

Ok, how are your DVOM leads connected?


Another reason I don't like pull out stuff. You just never know.

I used a small piece of 22ga wire in the injector and wrapped the test lead. For the positive injector side I used the alternator housing to ground. FOr the neg injector side I used the 10ga wire coming straight off the starter the feeds the pos side of my cooling fan. I could double check using the power terminal on the alternator

Today I'm going to try grounding out terminal 52 on the black connector. This is the starter enabler. I found a couple threads on LS1 tech noting this helped when using EFI live (which is being used to tune)

Neutral safety switch wired up?