Continuing on with the brake lines my goal is to get them in the final location and order new flex lines from Tobin at Kore3.

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last flare...I hope

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Header is back out yet again.

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I ran the spindle through it's range of motion and it looks like all is good.

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It's hard to believe I used all of these tools.

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So eventually this brass fitting will be swapped out for a nice chrome fitting.

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and the lines will be painted black so they dissapear into the frame.

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Holley Sniper Fuel Line -6 (12-03-20)
 

As you all know I have some issue's and the line that came with the intake doesn't match the rest of the lines. I had considered just wrapping it with the Tech Flex wrap to make it look like the rest of the lines. However, if you run the line under the Throttle Body it is to short and it pulls on the fitting really hard and just doesn't make me feel good. So I am going to make a new line that looks like the rest of the fuel lines.

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When you bring this diagram back out you know it's not going to be fun.

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My goal is to keep the car looking like an old car and not hiding all the wire. However the goal is to make the wiring look clean and like it belongs where it's at and look kinda cool while you are looking at it.

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Since I had no desire to run to the hardware store I cut one of the bolt so it would only go as deep as the DSE Wiper bracket. This was my grandfathers vise and I can't thank my buddy Ben enough for making the mobile cart and removable vise mount. I love seeing this vice every time I am working out in the garage. It brings back some great memories of working with my Grandpa and Uncle Tony in the garage when I was a kid.

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I also wanted to use the factory wire gutter.

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More to come later.

Things I am considering Wilwood Electric E-Brake (12-19-20)
 

So way back when there was a Sema Show I saw this really cool electric e-brake kit. I am going to have to talk with Tobin and see what he thinks and if he has a bracket as I have no interest in creating a bracket.

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Back to working on the fuel lines.

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Test fitting the coolant lines and AC lines so the inner fender had to go back on the car.

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I also re-ran the battery power but it will have to be shortened so I can add a cut off switch.

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adding back the grounds

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Does anyone know if they make black headlight rings ?

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I found some black line clamps that I may consider using.

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and of course I accidently found the lost washer for the door latch that I dropped a couple weeks ago. Good thing I took my shoes off in the garage after one of my rides and stepped on it with my heal. Ouch !!!

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MJ,

That was informative AND entertaining; that bit about the washer...

:thankyou:

Nice build! Where did you get the stainless radiator hose clamps that are on the car now? The look like a standard worm gear but Tbolt fastener. Thanks.

The wilwood electric parking brake looks like a nice piece. I used Tesla electric park brake calipers with a auto up/down power window kit and it has been working great. A few wires running to the caliper look a lot nicer and was a lot simpler than the cables, brackets, and pedal/handle.

He always has random candy in his posts, wondering if he works for a candy company or what?
This is one of the my favorites in LatG projects.

It made a nice clicking sound when I was walking and I laughed as I have used my leaf blower countless times to clean out the garage floor.

I spent the better part of last night looking and trying to figure out where I got them and no luck. I searched my Amazon, Ebay, Summit and Jegs order history and found nothing. I will be back in the garage tomorrow night (I hope) and look through all of the old receipts.


Please tell me you not an Almond Joy man !!

I have been looking at the next thing to do after I get out of what I am currently doing and I think you may be onto something.

One is from Advanced Auto and the other is from Summit Racing

Well Marty, it only took me a little over a week to go from start to finish ( I had to get caught back up again).

I really enjoy the detail and all the pictures. This is a fantastic project, and of course I love dogs :RunninDog:

Hey Joe,

Thank you and funny I have been doing the same thing with threads lately for inspiration and idea's.

Making Good Grounds - Hopefully ((12-20-20))
 

So my goal is to have really good grounds throughout the chassis and the body. After spending sometime watch HP Performance wiring video's I am going to take what I have learned and apply it to the car.

The Ground from the battery runs directly to the stud on the block and I have added a ground strap that goes from the stud to the subframe.

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Of course all the tools came out for this little project.

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Thankfully the drill fit in the gap perfectly.

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I used plenty of oil while I was tapping the hole as the last thing I want to do is figure out how to get out a broken tap.

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Once all of the wiring is complete I will remove the tape and remove a little bit of the powder coating under the ground strap. I will also change the bolt that is holding the ground strap.

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Mocking up how the ground wire will run back to the battery.

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More post-it notes.

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Marty......please tell us that's NOT A WELD on your tie rod center link!!!

Nope it’s a Moog Center Link. I’ll have to look to see what the reflection is that picture.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Today's project is making a new wire to the Alternator (01-16-21)
 

Well, It's time for another update and I am getting closer to catching up this thread to where I am today.

Today's project is making a new wire to the Alternator.

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I love the string method as you can lay out and get an almost exact length you will need when you cut your wire.

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So this is one of those "sure why not now" irritating moments. Yep, the rod fell off the door handle again. Ugh !!!

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This will make me feel better.

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How could I have used all of these tools ??

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All better now and door handle is back on.


Back to the Alternator.

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I was hoping for a chunkier update...

:P

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Love your posts, quite entertaining... :lol:

Marty,
I've been thinking I need to improve my grounding and possibly increase the gauge of the positive (currently 2 gauge) since I have my battery in the trunk and the voltage drops to 10.8v during start up. I currently only have a short ground wire from the battery to the subframe, and then a ground from the frame to the block... from what you've researched should I run the ground straight to the block first?

Pass along any sites you found helpful.

thanks!

I could use one of those right now

Thank you and I love being honest and sometimes brutally honest about my mistakes or goof ups. Just wish I had more time to post all the things have l have learned so much building this car that I can't wait to get to the posts about all I have learned during the Holley EFI swap. Thankfully they have a great tech page and then there is Andrew and then there is YouTube and then there is Mike and then there is those pesky instructions and when all else fails call in the big guns. Yes I am talking about my wife, when all else fails you call her out and when you are explaining to her what you need to do, somehow magically it all makes sense.

2nd Chance Camaro - Let the Project Begin
 

Boy that is a tuff call. Since I left my battery up front as I wanted the car to be simple and I didn't want to struggle to get the battery it made my decision pretty easy. From what I have read and learned along the way I choose to run the ground from the battery to the block and then a secondary ground from the block to the frame all of the side post battery terminal. Then coming off the top post terminal I am running a ground wire to both kick panels in the interior so the body has a good ground and I can ground the Vintage Air, Kicker sound system and the DSE wiper directly to the grounds on the drivers side. On the passenger side I am ground some of the Holley ECU wire and others will go all the way back to the battery.

It might be overkill but I would rather error on the overkill side. I am also going to look for the picture of the ground lug that Rad Rides & BBT Fab did on one of their cars as you might like what they did.

Here are the pictures

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Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I home run my ground cable. I run 2 gauge from the trunk to a bulkhead pass thru up near the firewall. From there I can tie directly to engine, and then add support grounds from body to sub. I can then tie all my other main electrical systems back to that pass thru. It creates a more stable ground path and less issues with electrical systems

All about Hose Clamps
 

So, I have had a few questions about the hose clamps that I had mocked up on the car. I figure I would share all of the different options that I found and if you have anything that you want to share please feel free to share it.

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Too Big

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Looks much better but you better be wearing steel gloves as these will slice your fingers.

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Atomic 4L60e Transmission Final Install (02-28-21)
 

Hopefully this will be the last time the Atomic Transmission gets installed.

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I used the lift on the jack to support the engine.

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Originally I was going to try to install the transmission with the headers and exhaust installed. However I quickly decided that the 30 minutes it takes me t remove the entire exhaust system would be the way to go.

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This is the only nut that is a pain in the ass to get to. Thankfully the motor has header studs.

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Yes this is the exact height I need to get the trans in the car while it is on the lift.

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So the first attempt didn't go as planned. Apparently I forgot to remove the powder coating that was in the alignment hole.

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Here we go again. (( Twice as it seems the torque converter moved out the 3rd time ))

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It's hard to see the soft lines I ran for the transmission.

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Yet to do is replace the trans pan and pan hardware.

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Time me

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Calling it a night.

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Testing the transmission soft lines ((02-28-21))
 

Before the Transmission lines went in I tested them to make sure the lines didn't leak.


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No Leaks

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I also installed the knotchead line clamps for the final time.

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Cyborg TT,
What brand truck bed liner did you use? It looks amazing.

thanks,
Jim

Another option on hose clamps....you do have to be precise on your measurements for proper sizing. Very clean and finished look for where they are most visible. I could not use them on the interior clamp at the throttle body because of clearance issues.

https://www.phase2motortrend.com/category-s/205.htm

You can see them on the CAI.

https://i.postimg.cc/k4ny6800/DSC-3304.jpg

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https://i.postimg.cc/wTT7gR1v/923327...6-BDD5-C62.jpg

Oddly enough it is just Line-X

Well dang it looks like I will be buying some of these as they are bad ass.

Thanks Marty. I appreciate it

Tranny Lines & Coolant Lines (( 03-07-21 ))
 

Lines are run and eventually I will connect them to the Hard Lines Kenny ran.

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I also started mocking up the AC & Coolant lines

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Instead of running them under the battery tray my plan is to neatly lay them on the Anvil Carbon Inner Fenders.

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Yes the Green String came out again.

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So I needed a 1 1/16" wrench and I didn't have one so off to Ace Hardware

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Man I love Ace Hardware

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It's cutting time.

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Finding the correct fitting was fun and it only took two trips to Midwest Hot Rods.

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Time to make the new lines

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what hose smasher/crimper ya using? I bought one of the hyd ones. wondering if you got one of those or the bolt down clamp? are you using the smash then turn 45 degree and smash again technique? You went custom with the line going through the firewall. I like that, might try it. what about a bypass? LS is supposed to need one...
this is the one I just bought, nice and clean.
https://www.lojkits.com/collections/...r-bypass-block

others talking about it here, this is where I found this part link....

https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...ass-block.html

Now this is the kind of story Hallmark should tell…

‘The Marty McFly Camaro..a love story.’

:P

Thank you and I am going to start researching this more as it looks like I may add this.
 

Honestly I never even thought about this and now you have me thinking. So much so I am going to talk to a couple buddy's of mine in the morning and see what they think. The part is cheap enough (figuratively) that I should consider doing it as my plan it to actually drive this car.


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If you find it necessary, Vintage Air 344470 is 35 bucks and takes up waaaayyyy less space.

The attention to detail here is mind boggling….

Don

Tessa Tape & Vintage Air (( 03-13-21 ))
 

At some point I know I will be nearing the end of all of this wiring fun. But for now it's been an awesome learning experience and the help along the way has been awesome.


I wanted a way to tighten up the loom/grommet area to reduce the chances of water getting in. An wiring guru friend taught me this trick. It double as a way to seal up the hole and keep the harness from moving. Start your wrap on one side of the grommet and the make a couple passes on the area you want the grommet to sit and them side the grommet over the area. Once you install the grommet start taping the opposing side and it will secure the grommet in place and reduce your chances of a leak.

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Next up is the Vintage Air AC Lines and coolant hoses.


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I put a little silicone on the back of the fitting bracket to hold the trim plate in place and also seal up any gab that may allow water to sneak in.


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Somewhere way back in this thread is the part number for the Machines Washers from Ace Hardware and also the part number for similar washers from McMaster Carr.


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Sorry the picture quality sucks.


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The fun part was me sticking my arm through the hole to get the nuts started. Once they were snug I was able to go inside the car and tighten them with a socket. I also used a smaller ratchet so I wouldn't over tighten the nuts.


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If you have sound deadening on the inside of the car make sure you move it out of the way as it will eventually allow the nuts to loosen when it soften up in the heat.


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Installed Vintage air box one more time. Don't worry it will be coming back out again.


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I also wanted to make sure I would be able to get to the nuts on the hose clamps if I ever need to service them. So I adjusted the line clamp so the nuts would be clearly visible if I removed the kick panels.


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Your attention to detail is amazing! Why do you put dates on the labels?

Thank you and I put the dates on it so I can go back and look at pictures just in case I can't remember exactly what I was doing at the time.

That's an excellent idea. I do that when jotting down notes & measurements during initial phases but will add that to the mix where applicable.