http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-K...-KwTW8Pc-L.jpg

http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-B...-BkF7khn-L.jpg

On a side note if a veteran TIG welder out there needs a tungsten prep assistant I passed my apprenticeship today. :bur2:

Okay -- I don't mean to bust your you know what here on a public forum ---- but dude! Get rid of that big ass TIG torch and heavy unyielding hose.... and get a torch that isn't fighting you all day!



This is just ONE style --- but trust me when I tell ya - the right size torch -- and a nice flexible gas cooled hose will make you a serious welder!!

The hose is a flexi-flyer........:mock:

http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-f...f6d7fLp-XL.jpg

Torch isn't huge and works well for my big hands, but I wouldn't mind a swivel head.

http://www.usaweld.com/v/vspfiles/photos/SH-9-12-1.jpg

AH!! GOOD! It looked like a garden hose in the pics! A flexible hose is really critical IMHO.... almost as important as being able to see!


My TIG torches have flex heads -- not swivel heads -- but you can bend the neck.


I personally like to use as small of a torch as possible --- both MIG and TIG.

Here's a good reference....



http://www.ckworldwide.com/standard.htm

CK-17 is the torch that came with the HTP Invertig.

Yeah - that's standard --- You'd LOVE a CK9 (two series) with the flex head!

Just do it!

Retractable seat belt installation to be continued....due to server issues.

Headlight & grille screen installation........to be continued

Exhaust mods to be continued...........

Power steering cooler installation.........to be continued

I finally got around to tearing into the rear end to upgrade my axle's 7/16" wheel studs to match the 1/2" ARP front studs. Embarrassingly for as long as I've been a Lat-G member I thought I had installed C-clip eliminators years ago and thus had postponed installing rear disc brakes! Guess that's what happens when you have a car 24+ years and get into your mid 50's..........:sieg:

Anyway after contacting Moser and verifying I could simply tap the existing 7/16" press in stud holes since they are drilled the same size that's required for a 1/2-20 tap I tore into it today so when the ARP studs arrive in a day or two I'll be ready to button it back up.

First thing was to insure the tap would be square so I made a quick jig from scrap laying around.
http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-f...fHPTBbc-XL.jpg

The other concern was being able to get the rear cover off and be able to properly seal it during the reinstall due to clearance with the Flowmaster transverse muffler. Tight but doable.
http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-d...d5x5XvG-XL.jpg

The other motivation is I wasn't positive of the rear end ratio as the last time the cover was off was in '92.........I think. 14/44/3.38 confirmed.
http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-J...Jnc2QZx-XL.jpg

Side shots with freshly threaded axles waiting for studs.
http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-w...w7Kjwzs-XL.jpg

http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-J...J7Ww8q4-XL.jpg

Keep us posted on your wheel stud install Sieg. I'm about to upgrade front brakes with 1/2 ARP studs, and have the same 7/16" studs out back.

Tu - With my Moser axles it was simple. The press in studs popped out easily, tapping was tedious but good exercise, all that's left is to screw in the studs and reinstall the axles. I'd assume stock axles would be similar other than slightly stubborn studs due to rust.

I had a shop pressed in new 7/16" stud when I converted the rearend to disc brake, so it should not be too hard to tap them out. I'm a bit more worry about tapping the holes, as my hands are not as steady as they used to be.

Tu

If you can't make a tap guide like I did get one something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Hand-Tap-Guide.../dp/B000ZN30U4

I also used a longer T-bar in the tap holder which helped a lot.

Nice job. I've never heard of or didn't think they had a "3.38" GM 12 bolt gear ratio, Is It an after market gear??

Well my tooth count was 44 x 13 Ring divided pinion equaled 3.38. However those are big numbers for me to count :sieg: Could be 43/13 3:30's, either way they're not 3:55's or 3:73's which I'd consider optimum. 3:73 concern me due to noise.......seems that ratio just isn't quite.

How about 3.42 41x12 ;)

Sieg's Stud Service........

http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-m...mCkVZB4-XL.jpg

Has a nice ring to it. :D

I called -- Amy is not real keen on the new business name.




Don't forget the locktite.




Looks good!

One drop of Red and seated with 3/8" butterfly impact which hits 60-70 ft. lbs. Wheels are torqued at 75 lbs. We shall see.

Axle code is BS 0107G1
Manufactured on Jan 7th, by Detroit Gear & Axle, shift 1.

BS = 3:31 ratio, so I missed the ring gear by 1, 43/13= 3.3076. :thumbsup:

And I had totaly forgot about the 3.31 gear :bang:

in the city..a big hit

of course you did, you silly straight liner

I KNOW HUH!

I dunno Greg ... I sorta like the new biz name. :lol:

Good business plan - but he may come up a bit "short".....

You're certainly qualified to make that statement. :captain1:

Ready to roll!

http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-7...7Wdrvzg-XL.jpg

http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-5...5wFJh2Q-XL.jpg

My USCA non-compliant unsafe tires :(

Looks great Scotty.

So what is the date on those tires?

They're about 3.5 years old. Understand the intent of the rule, but regarding safety with a 46 year old car tires are the last of my worries. My rear drums qualify and I'm more concerned about losing brakes on the road course than having a tire issue.

Tough justify $500 for the entry and $1300 for tires just to run an OK track. I'd spend it on track days and expenses at Oregon Raceway Park, The Ridge, or T-hill first.

I don't agree with being able to circumvent the 'safety' regulation by using a lower quality date code conforming tire.

$1300 for tires? what tires you looking at?

That's for new NT05's

Local Discount Tire (America's Tire in west coast) quoted me a hair above $800 for 4 NT05's (245/40/18 & 275/35/18) mounted/balanced. Just have to bring my new wheels down to them.

I think I paid $1150 for a set of the big'uns on the web.

When you drive the Lotus on the Hoosiers - and finally feel brakes that stop better than you wanted them to -- and realize a 1.8 liter Toyota motor will smoke your SBC by margins of MULTIPLE SECONDS -- on a real track -- you won't want to bother trying to make your street car into a race car. LOL

Then why all we all here?


:confused59:


lol

Couldn't get an online quote from their website.

I used Summit for pricing. When I do replace I'll most likely end up with a run flat style but that's most likely a couple years away.

Oh I know! I have a bike in the garage that my Camaro can't even sniff, especially in the adrenaline category. The USCA deal is about being around the people and watching the 'players' cars run for me. :D

That being said.........once you drive my Camaro you'll sell the Mustang.

:rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: