Not only does this car look KILLER, it kicks some serious ass on the track. :wow:
Very nice Todd. CONGRATS!:thumbsup: :cheers:

Car looks great
 

I like the blacked out look

Just got back from Motor State. I ran the XP10's on the front and the AX6's on the rear. With street tires it was pretty fabulous once they got warm. To lazy to change them out and drove them on the street and did the autocross with them....not so hot. AX6's front and rear for street driving and autocross are way way better.

i just read the whole payback project thread in its entirety. WOW.

i really respect that car. you did a great job with it; i love the look.

Thanks man, the car has come a country mile. Sorry about all the bull ****. :unibrow:

and more importantly your driving the piss out of it! so sick!

This is a Hot AZZ shot!!! You should be proud

Car just keeps getting better and better. The tail lights are a very nice touch. Looks awesome.

Can't wait to get home and see all the new upgrades.

:thumbsup:

Considering this car gets beat up on the track it's looks incredible Todd. Maybe this year we can hook up in Vegas. I may be staying for a whole week anyway. Buy the way you got a two car garage?

I gots me a 4 car garage plus shop space. 1550 sqft pegs me out. Your car is safe at my place.:thumbsup:

I'll be in touch soon

Car looks badass.... I just finished up reading all 165 pages... lol.

All Aluminum big block power... cant beat that!

Any opinion on the GoPro HD?

The quality looks pretty good, the Aussie guys that brought over there HSV Maloo's where using Contour HD.

Just looking for your thoughts on it.

Thanks, I've been happy with the go pro minus the battery life. I ran a local autocross and forgot to charge it for the El Toro event. I got one baer speed stop challenge. I'm still pissed I didn't get the road race. Of course you know all this since you read my thread. :unibrow:

Is it a lithium ion battery?

Sad its going to take some CNC l92 heads and a blower to make your power level.... :hail:

I'm not sure, it's only chargable through the usb cable. Everybody is so LS happy now. The beauty of my big block is it's predictabilty. It's the monster torque curve that makes it such a great racer. Sure I need a few more cubes to out gun these LS guys but I have 666hp and 641 ftlbs of predictable power on tap at all times. It's a really light package to boot. Not the most economical or easiest way to skin a cat but it's definitely on the same playing field as the best LS builds.

Todd I saw a cigarete light charger for a Garman GPS that connects to the usb cable . Maybe they make one for the Go Pro or maybe that one will fit? Just a thought.

does it come with the gator clip option?:rofl: ;)

Thanks for the generous write up Rupp..:thumbsup:
http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/a...Performers.jpg

Third time was the charm. I finally tackled tearing the master cylinder back off and switching brake rod style. I was experiencing residual pressure in the brake lines. It turns out you can't use a 7/8 Wilwood master pushrod with a 1". Why is honestly still beyond me... I was able to put about 50 miles on the car between last night and this morning. Damn it's hot, I need to charge the AC. The brake pedal is a HUGE improvement. It's the high and hard brake pedal I've been chasing since day one. During normal street driving it's very confidence inspiring. I tried to simulate race conditions and there is still knockback but not enough to require pumping the brakes. In fact, the knockback doesn't take me as far as the 7/8 pedal travel was normally. Clearly I need to get this car on the race track but I'm a happy dude!:woot:

This was the first real drive with the new BFG KDW's. I'd say they are noisier than the R888's. The feel of the car is slightly different but nothing I can't tune out. I was able to punch it in 2nd gear at the lake and it hooked. That's a good sign.

Glad to hear the new setup is working for you. Just curious, but how much pressure do you have to apply to the pedal to get the thing to stop? Do you have to stomp on the pedal more than with the 7/8" or about the same, save for the fact that the 1" doesn't have that squishy feel towards the top of the pedal.

Also, I've got a random question for you. Did you use the DSE half height body mounts? I ask because because my car is sitting so damn low it is getting impractical and its near impossible to twist the coilovers up any farther.

Matt

He did. He won't again. It causes.... Issues.

Tyler

I like it alot better so far. If I we're to guess, the pedal is about 15% -20% harder. Let me get a race and more miles under my belt. The pedal ratio is 12:1 for a manual brake set up in a 69. Most reccomend a minimum of 8:1 for a manual set up with the proper master cylinder. I personally feel the 7/8 is undersized for the caliper piston volume. I wish I would've done this 2 years ago.

Tyler is correct, I did use them. Thanks Frank. :lol: My only regret at this point is not slicing the tunnel for more trans to tunnel clearance. When I had the old steel block in the car I also had the coil over adjusters as high as I could physically get them. (Small block springs) I was able to back them down a turn or two for the aluminum block. I thought them LSX motors were light? :lol:

Very cool Todd!
Congrats on the ink!:cheers:

Good to hear Todd!

Funny -- when we were at RTTC -- I talked for awhile with the Wilwood rep there. His statement rings very true - which was - "some people really like a high hard pedal a 1" M/C gives and some like the softer more modulated feel of the 7/8". He said he personally liked the "feel" of the 7/8... but it doesn't matter as well as it's what YOU like!

I don't have any choice if I want a decent pedal. Yes, I like it very much. :unibrow: This whole big lip, 335mm, race car, blah, etc, blah, forces it. Most guys can get away with murder. I can't because I push the limits!:lol:

Yep! Me too! Had to raise the trans tunnel .75" to fit the T56......

Glad you are finally feeling better about the brake system Todd...these things can take some time! :cheers:

I nominate you for understatement of the week, sir. every little issue I have now seems to be related to those stupid bushings. They do make the car look very cool though.

Todd, apparently my little LS is more of a boat anchor than your ZL1. I'm currently shaving fiberglass off of Tyler's prized inner fenders when going around hard turns. Maybe I need to make an upgrade in the engine department, hell the sound alone would be worth it. :unibrow:

Matt

Matt, can't you go with a 1" or so taller coilover....or just a longer spring alone if you are running out of adjustment? It too me a couple trys to get it right with the desired ride height when I modded the stock frame with a DSE kit. If I remeber right I had three sets of springs before I nailed it!

Are your lower control arms level at your current ride height?

Now back to PB!!

I'd be surprised if you would coil bind the springs spinning them up higher. I bet you only need a turn or two. You can get a rough estimate by measuring the distance between all the coils and available shock travel. You may need a mechanical advantage. Take off the wheels and get some more leverage on them with a wrench or short pipe. Running low has it's compromises. I'll take a compliant package over looking cool anyday. Find a ride height that works well on the track and street and record it. It's normal for your car to have settled out.

I wouldn't trade my big block for an LSX. Not in a million years.:unibrow:

Todd, I'm a little behind on the site and getting caught up now. The new house/garage looks awesome, great space. The taillights look great and congrats on the ink in the mags. :thumbsup:

Yeah, I might end up going with a taller spring. I don't think we took the wheels off last time we tried it, which sounds stupid in retrospect, so we'll try that first.

Now, as you said, back to Payback. I don't want to clutter Todd's thread with too much irrelevant info... a little bit is fine though :lol:

Matt

Nothing to earth shattering to report but I figured I'd update the thread. It's no secret it's a little hot around here this time of year. :unibrow: I've had the A/C plumbed and wired for months, I just haven't got around to charging it. I have an old buddy that has a shop close to the new house with a 134 machine. I drove it over early one morning and sucked it down for 45 minutes and it held vaccum. Sweet, we put the 1.8lbs of refrigerant in and one of the hose crimps didn't hold at the compressor high side. Thanks for letting me borrow your crimper Weld! So I need to redo that hose. Like I told my buddy John, if it took the first time something had to be wrong with the world that day. I just laughed and drove it to work since I was a little behind schedule that day. Which leads me to my next tall tale. I forgot I had a hair cut before going to the office. It's about 105 degrees at 10 AM and I come out with my new ICE MAN haircut and my Ray Bans of course. Why won't my car start? Oh ya, it's flooded out. It decided to heat soak. I finally got it fired after about 10 minutes with my phone ringing off the hook thinking why did I drive this car to work? :rofl: Of course it never was a problem before. This was really the first time in the sweltering heat with the new engine. I dropped the floats 4 flats and it will start now right away.

I went out and ran an autocross Saturday night at the Silverton hotel. This autocross made Good Guys look like the Daytona 500. I'm not kidding when I say my car wouldn't turn sharp enough to even think about competing in this deal. In fact I got DNF's the first 2 runs for not making a turn. Me being the Chad Knaus of the household, I decided to make some "set up" changes because I knew it was going to be tight. I changed the sway bar and the front shock settings. It was also my first race on the street BFG's. I'm not going to sugar coat it, the car was looser than Greg Weld's mouth. It would've been a great drift car. Wait, I was sideways pretty much the whole run every run. :thumbsup: I got my but handed to me by about half the carsin the field. I'll tell you what I learned, I won't take my car back to the Silverton to run an autocross. Maybe I'll buy a go kart for the next go around. I could probably make that 15 foot hair pin turn that way. :rolleyes: I almost forgot, I didn't need to pump the brakes with the new 1" master cylinder. Knockback is still present but it was managable without any pumping. We'll see how she does on the faster tracks and road course.

I had more fun on the way home, the car is running great. :D I really don't feel any forward bite differences with the new tires. They hook pretty good. I'll reserve my judgement when I get my old setup back under the car and I run a real Autocross at Las Vegas motor speedway with turns for real cars.

THE END

You'll need to read my "signature line".... part of it might apply. :rofl: :woot:

Very cool Todd! No pun intended.;)
(Did you say ICE MAN haircut and Ray Ban's?!:_paranoid :lol:)

Big difference from the R888 to street tires! Biggest difference is once it gets loose it won't recover like it did on R888, with street tires, once they are loose, they are loose. Those R888s keep looking for traction. kinda fun to drift it though!

I'll reserve my judgement until I get to a venue where I can test the car. They warn with a squeal where I don't every remember the R888's doing that.

Frank, do you recomment the R888's over anything else?

R888 are real soft and last only a few miles. They are sticky. For a street tire the KDW is a bargain.

For as few miles as we do, I think they are a great choice. I had a couple thousand miles on mine and 6-8 races and they had great tread left until my race at El Toro. The burnout I did really cinged them and I flat spotted them a little in the speed stop challenge. I bet they will last a good 10k in street only use. The only reason I switched was due to all the events being 200 treadwears. Ideally I'd like to have a spare set of wheels with Hoosier A6's for autocross. :yes: Those babies are like bubble gum.