Scott, I just got 2-265's and 2-295's NT05's delivered (free shipping) for $903. Use discount tire direct for pricing: http://www.discounttiredirect.com/direct/home.do?

x2 Aaron

Those are some nice looking nuts to match your studs.

Sieg, you don't price shop online much do ya. :hello:

Ya know.. there's a place for you.

It's called anywhere but here. :bigun2:

When you put it like that I hate to admit it, but I like 'em too.

Not at your level princess.

The $1300 number was factoring local mount & balance also.

When I'm serious about buying absolutely! Late last night I went to Summit, both Discount and America's sites gave me a call the local dealer for a price quote notification. I've dealt with the local Discount when I originally bought the NT's....and won't go back, the America's store is good for rigs like Betsy. :D

Just about everything I buy for the car and hobby shop is online as there are no brick and mortar stores within a 100 miles that support my car hobbies. Lots of gun stores, heads shops and breweries though. :rolleyes:

Thanks for the benchmark Aaron. :thumbsup:

I thought the same about Tucker. :lmao:

Hurts duzzinit. :mock:

So as far as the tires go, how much is too old for the track? ive got "new" bfg's but there circa '07 (garaged but....) not sure they'll be new enough for da track though....

Straight from the USCA rule book:



9. Tire age - Tires must have a manufacture date within three (3) years of the date of the USCA event being entered. Here’s how to check the date:

Wow - what a load of crap.

My 345x30x19's are like 3 years old by manufacture date - yet have like 1500 miles on them from last years Power Tour - they are a new old set from Tirerack.

No way in hell am I replacing them for that event.

Stupid hurts......but it does get rid of the 3:31 gearing. :unibrow:

http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-D...DMSJzx9-XL.jpg

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Spider gear shim slipped out and I didn't detect it. =(

Whaaaattttt???!!!!!

That's what I said when he texted me the pic :yes:

Plenty of time.......not leaving until Friday morning. :bang:

Some start doing things the smart and easy way much sooner than others. ha

doh, won't do that again.....put some disc brakes on it since its out

Motive 3:73's, Timken bearings, ARP cap studs, clutch tune and bolt it back up. That put the hurt on my disc brakes. But the day in day out reality is I'll appreciate the gear change more often than a brake upgrade for the majority of my usage.

ok fine, carry on.

Done!
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I feel very fortunate as there are very few decent automotive resources in our area, but Roy's Differential is an Oasis. Roy's is a one man shop that small, clean and organized for efficiency. Roy is in his sixties with a drag racing background and all he does is rear ends and predominantly Chevrolet and Ford. He has a large inventory of Motive gear sets in stock and has years of experience setting them up.

My timing was such that he met me at the shop this morning and pulled the cover, went over the details and he said it will be ready Tuesday.

What was nice was he spoke highly of the 12-bolt's design and durability and the simple fact that they put more horsepower to the ground than a 9". :D

Great news Sieg. You spending night at the track or getting a room? I may need a ride into town.

At the track.......if I don't behave I'll probably be sleeping in the trailer. :sieg:

While the rear end is at the doctor that creates access opportunities to clean up details and install the Energy urethane rear spring bushings I've had laying around for years......not the best but probably better than the OEM rubber. Fronts were previously installed. I also didn't want to go through the 1/8 turn at a time reinstall on the OEM shackle bolts and locking nuts....that was a pain!

So I grabbed some grade 8 bolts and heavy washers, modified the shackles, and made a sleeve out of stainless and brass tubing to get a snug fit with the bolts and bushings. $25 spent.

http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-d...dTcXq98-XL.jpg

Don't forget to grease 'em - or they squeak like crazy....

:D

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Norwood
 

Sieg,
you could also raise the front shackel bolt up 3/4" (old Herb Adams trick)
I bought his brackets from National Parts Depot.. or you could cut the top
off yours and weld a filler in the old hole location...
It is suppose to get rid of the spring wrap or wheel hop
I had to modify Herbs brackets to make them work so to modify yours is easier and cheaper

They also use a larger shackel out back to cut down on the flex

Spherical bushings at the front are also good but not cheap

Spend more money and you can buy a custom Mono spring
stronger on the front side....like an never ending money pit

Sound like someone we know on this board:)

I just did all this to my car.. saves weight and cheaper than
a 3 or 4 link setup

I had mine apart several times and yes my 12 bolt bearings finally
went out after 26 years... Gears were perfect after all the abuse
they have taken from big Pontiacs and cheater slicks over the years

What is going to break next?

Panteracer Norcal Bob

I think Herb also suggested raising the front eye height to eliminate roll steer from the rear suspension to increase front grip and reduce understeer.

On a second gen you could use a bracket that he sold. On a first gen you have to do some surgery to make room to move the spring eye upward.

The next thing to break will be a Lotus:lol:

THE BANK!

I was working with my old buddy Pierre --- and he's marking something "L" and "R" --- I said -- how many are we working with? "One each side" was the reply... I said "okay" --- You do realize that if you mark one "L" then the other one must be "R", right?

Then I said, which way is "R"? from the back of the car or the front? :>) How about marking one "D" for Driver or "P" for Passenger...

I love busting his balls....

Your supposed to respect your elders.

Tell Rob that would ya! :slingshot:

Pierre's my newest best friend, be nice. :rules:

Roy Differential's called today about noon, I saw the caller ID and though oh sh*t something is not good. Wrong, rear end was ready to go. So off to the shop to pick it up I went and stopped by Coyote Steel and picked up some scrap aluminum to fab new lowering blocks with a 5* pinion correction.

http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-m...mDVm6qX-XL.jpg

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All that's left is to connect the brake line and u-joint, bleed the system, mount the wheels and break it in.

Buttoned it all up today and did some easy breakin laps around the neighborhood and backroads. Everythings sounds and feels good........hit the open road and at 50-52 mph the vibration begins and at 65 it ain't good.

The lowering block/pinion shim I built was 5* to replace the original 4* shim which had a slight driveline vibration at 65* in 5th and 6th. By slight I mean definitely driveable long distance and nowhere near what I'm experiencing now.

So.......I loosened everything up and cut a 2* wafer shim installed opposing the other to get to 3* total wedge.....test drove, no change in the level of vibration.

So......I loosened everything up and reinstalled the original lowering block and 4* wedge.....test drove, no change in the level of vibration.

60 mph in 4th 5th or 6th doesn't seem to have an effect on the level of vibration. It comes in just above 50 and increases.

Is it driveline/pinion angle, a bad set of gears, or ?????

Help!

U-joint or driveshaft balance?

Does it vibrate when you're accelerating or decelerating in that speed range? Does it come in and go out when you tip in and out of the throttle? Or is it just there at 50+ regardless of accelerating / deceleration?

The u-joints and driveshaft have about 3K miles on them. They were fine on Thursday.

When breaking it in I was running 1800 to 2500-3000 rpm easy accel decel and could feel or hear anything.

In and out of throttle doesn't seem to invoke anything.

Rolling up and through 50-52 mph it's there. The frequency feels higher than say a tire/wheel balance issue

But you did more than just the rear end -- you also added wheel studs... have you looked at that at all?

Is the DS seated properly in the yoke?

Pinion nose is DOWN right??

Any possibility of the U joint not seating correctly in the axle flange or the pinion flange not seating correctly on the new gearset?

One check to consider is to measure how much runout is on the driveshaft near the rear axle pinion flange, the center and near the front slip yoke end.