I loved the triple 8's as an autocross tire for My STi. Great grip, great response, good feed back and two seasons with three drivers. Wouldn't expect more than 7k street miles though.

For the street I say go with what ever is cheap and fits. If your looking for that much grip on the street, take it to the track before you hurt someone.

You could put bias plys on an STI and it would handle. Those STI's and Lancers are ridiculous. Everytime I ride in one it makes my go hmmmmm.

She looks good with her numbers...
http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/a..._8287907_n.jpg

you ever think about throwing an RS grille in? Im sure you have your reasons for not, but I bet it would look good anyway!:D

So basically the R888's are racing tires?

Lucky #7's Todd. :D Car looks good.

Todd, your car looks killer with or without numbers bud!:thumbsup: :cheers:

Hell no...:D

"Looser than Greg Weld's mouth"----:lol:

You sittin up at night to come up with those gems or what---'

Love the pic of "Ice Man" that Dave put up--that took me back--had that same cut in college--chicks dug it---

Was the course you were running made for import cars only or something? Never thought I would hear Payback got a DNF---musta been way, way tight.

Great news about the knockback bro--hopefully it will work just as well when you are out at the larger track.

Doug

I hadn't even cracked my first beer. :unibrow: It was ridiculously tight. The DSE sub doesn't give a real tight turning radius. In fact a U turn at a stop light is challenging. Our Tundra turns sharper than the Camaro. She wasn't bread to run on a go kart track anyway. ;)

Is there a certain reason about the DSE sub that makes it tight? Or is it similiar to stock?

I am going to say front tire width has a part in that. It would probably be great with a standard 8.5" rim and a 245 tire.

It may also be the rack travel vs the steering arm length. The Vette spindle has long steering arm.

I would also think you have enough power to just turn it right around. Tanner Foust style. :D

^^^^^^^^^^ What he said...


Stomp the brakes - crank the wheel hard over - stomp the gas.... nuthin' to it. :rofl:

It seems a larger wheel/tire would have a cause and effect situation.

Can the rack travel and steering arm be adjusted or replaced for a better turning radius?

I like Gregs solution...turn, gas it, and hold on! :thumbsup:

Nothing like a Monday morning quarterback.:unibrow: My car turns lock to lock with a 275mm and no rub. It wouldn't turn any tighter with a 205. I agree that a compromise had to be made to do what I just mentioned. Take a look at Shane's first run here. It's really about a 210 degree turn. His 10 Camaro turns much sharper than mine.

What is the largest tire a DSE sub can run comfortable? What is the best size to run on the track?

Chevys........:question:
http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/a...pection040.jpg

LS motors

You break it already??

If it ain't broke -- you didn't run it hard enough... :rofl:

I set out to do a maintenence valve adjustment and found that all the valves were way out of spec. I found an intake at .040 and the spec is .014. Big blocks with solid rollers are known for eating lifters. Jason Pettis(My engine builder) recommended an inspection due to the lash. By the way, I have nothing but the utmost confidence in Pettis. He's there and cares. It's the best engine I've ever experienced. I tore it down and can't find a damn thing wrong. The cam is smooth and the lifters looks good. The rocker push rod cups look to be the most worn. I just don't understands where .024 went on my loosest intake. I guess it could be a sum of things. The weird thing was it wasn't noisy or running bad. It was a maintenence adjustment. I'm going to send the photos to Jason and take his recommendation. Right now it looks like I can put it back together and lash the valves.

With a aluminum block and heads, the lash actually increases by .012-.015 due to the expansion of the block and heads. On an iron block/iron head engine the valves can actually get tighter. Iron block/aluminum heads only grow a little. To set the valves cold requires only around .005 and that is a chore. It's like slipping a wet noodle into.....

Yes, a solid roller big block is more maintenence than a LS. I'll take my ZL-1. It's just a love afair. One day I want to slap the bitch and the next I can't believe how damn good she makes me feel. :D

Guess that's why there's that old saying... high performance comes with a high cost...

Ya run 'em hard - things break or go wonky.

People unfamiliar with drag racing always ask "why do they tear apart the engine after every run"....

BTW --- working with a .005 feeler gauge would be a total pain. Might as well just pull a hair out of your head and use that. :rofl:

I was out at a buddies shop - they were doing break in dyno on a big block... a real nice motor... loading her up at about 3000 rpms and all hell breaks loose. It ate the distributor gear. Never seen that - or ever talked to anyone that did (other than bronze gear wear)... Sh*t happens!

How very true Greg.
Good luck Todd.:thumbsup:

It's always better to error on the side of caution. I've got to much money invested in this engine to take any chances. In hind sight, I should've lashed the valves a couple times since I installed the engine. Especially after the EL Toro beating. A hydraulic cam would be much less maintenence but I like spinning this baby to 6800. :thumbsup: Right now I need to decide if I'm going to send the lifters out to Isky and have them upgraded from the Red Zone's with needle bearings, to the EZ Rolls. I'll probably use up the life in these, and have them rebuilt down the road. When Jason built the engine, he had good luck with these and had heard of one bad experience with the EZ Rolls. He hasn't heard anything negative since. I'm going to send him some photos and go from there.

Sucks Todd, I'm sure you'll get it to where you want it to be.

Right now I'm heavily leaning towards the engine block and heads finding their sweet spot together after many heat cycles and the parts getting broken in together. I was contacted by a guy on Chevelles.com and he said it's not unusual for an aluminum block engine to take multiple heat cycles to set in it's ways. I just don't see any other possibilities at this point.

You traitor. :willy:

Seriously tho, how often should one be checking valve lash for a solid roller deal?

It really depends on the car and mileage but I'd say every few months. You'll know once you check them. If they are tight after 500 miles then go to a 750, etc. If one valve is overly loose it's an indicator of a problem and can save you a catastrophic failure. I'll be keeping a closer eye on mine. Jason reviewed the photos and it's going back together this week. I have a race next Sunday so I'll be out in the garage a few nights this week. :thumbsup:

My brother has an OutLaw 10.5 car, conventional headed (1995 Bowties) and a Donavan block, twin 94's. We have been as quick as 4.32 and as fast as 177.6 We pull the covers and check lash anytime we make a hit, no matter how far we go into the run. saying that, I know that it is somewhat of a different situation as yours but you said that if you checked them at 500 miles and they were good, go to 750 for the next check, I would hesitate to use this approach, it will not hurt to check them after every race at the least. Please don't think I'm trying to get into your hen house, preventive maintainence and constant babysitting will go a long ways, erroring on the side of caution is not a bad thing in this area. Shawn

I agree it's better to be safe than sorry. You are talking about apples and oranges though. An outlaw 10.5 car is going to have some wicked open and closing ramps compared to my cam. Like me, he'll have to figure it out with time. Better to error on the side of caution until you figure out a reasonable timeframe. After a road race I think it's advisable.

Yeah, you're right, apples and oranges in a way, but it is still fruit. i.e. aluminum block and heads with high expansion rates, critcal valve lash. It is something that we watch constantly, these things cost way too much not too keep a close eye on. You also have a stud gridle, where He has shaft rockers, so yours are more of a pain to adjust, not that His are any fun! Shawn

Ok boys and girls. I'll be representing the local SCCA www.lvrscca.com at the www.superrun.com in Henderson, NV. The show runs Friday-Sunday. I'll be there every day.
http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/a...k1969/Rttc.jpg

Will you be trailering it there................:P


Actually that's pretty cool!! :)

Sounds like your gonna have a good weekend :unibrow:

Have fun Todd, and glad you are back on the road.

Have fun Todd. Show'em what "Payback's" all about brother.
Car looks great!:thumbsup: :cheers:

Thats sweet Todd congratulations. Enjoy!

Sweet pic of the car. Looks evil.

Hopefully you'll get some more video of it in action for us!

yeah i gotta hit that show every year!
I'll call or text when Im heading out there so i know where your car is....

Cool, I'll be there every night keeping the beer vendors in business. I'm getting ready to throw a coat of Zaino on after dinner. This car is black everywhere. :unibrow: Hitting five thousand cones at last Sundays autocross hasn't speed up the process. Luckily cone rash comes right off.

You car is bad ass.....

Must be the half height body bushings? Ya think? :rofl: