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BINGO!!!
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So whats the final tally? did it work? or should i say does it work?
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To get it right will require getting the pinion lower to get more working angle at the trans/driveshaft u-joint. The 1" blocks lift the pinion too high so they need to be eliminated by using reverse eye leafs or a 4-link. At least that what I've concluded. As is the engine/trans angle is high by .3*-.8*. After 15 pinion angle changes and test drives..........have I mentioned that I hate leaf springs lately? :D |
In an effort to neutralize the little vibe that's left I'm going to replace the right side Moroso solid motor mount with an Energy Suspension urethane mount and see if that has any neutralizing effect. I'm leaving the left side mount as the header to steering box clearance is about 3/16".
Thoughts? |
While you loose torque (a little) on one hand, i believe the polyurethane to dissipate harmonic (wave) energy.....I mean if you placed your whole driveline on a sponge, you'd probably have no vibrations....
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Glass man, is that proven or just a seat of the pants "torque sensing" observation?
That sounds snide but It is a sincere question because I do not know. And you have sparked my curiosity. Does Poly or a rubber mount actually lose, or absorb torque? I would think not, that it would only dampen the inrush of torque being applied to the structure. All the torque, or rotational forces at work are going to get to their fullest extent of allowable movent in due time are they not? |
I personally do not like or use solid mounts. I do believe that the poly's absorb harmonics which is why I prefer them.
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The most annoying vibration feedback I'm getting now is in my right foot which tells me motor mounts.
The concern is the steering box clearance. Are the urethane mounts rigid enough to keep the header from contacting the steering box? http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-p...p23Dmm2-XL.jpg ..........oops! Just realized I forgot the F'n idler arm! :sieg: http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-s...sDgdTCG-XL.jpg |
Just burn it.
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Toss the headers and get some that fit right. Who makes those?
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http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-9...9s6ZtPV-XL.jpg |
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Take another look, is there any part of the engine/trans touching the body? Trans bellhousing bolts? The ones on the drivers side. Solid mounts transmit alot of NVH. |
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:cheers: |
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The vibe in the throttle is most noticeable when cruising at highway speeds of 60-75 mph while using light on/off throttle inputs to maintain speed or following distance. To the best of my knowledge there are no contact points as I clearanced/smoothed the firewall when I installed the transmission and I've had it out once after the initial install and there's good clearance around the bellhousing bolts. No witness marks on the steering box or idler arm. I've 'heard' the urethane mounts are pretty rigid but those clearances are pretty tight, thus why I'm leaning to replacing the right side only and see if anything changes. |
even if you change one it won't make much difference since the other side is solid mounted. It would if you had a hinge or spring mount that will flex.
One of the ways to find the frequency of the vibration and with some mathematical calculations you can determine if its engine, pulley or rotational issue. A simple tool for measuring the vibration frequency is the sirometer you can get one from Briggs & Stratton shops. We use to use them to determine and narrow down causes of vibrations in Dodge diesel trucks. |
I have newish poly mounts on both sides in my car and I have witness marks where my header contacts my steering shaft...which has over a half inch clearance when sitting static.
Being all too familiar with solid mounts to cure clearance issues on other cars, I'm tempted to say you might need to learn to live with the vibration if they are the cause. You've gots some tight spaces there... |
Funny how we try to turn a 45 year old Chevrolet into a Rolls Royce....
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We do it because we can... |
Looking at the front of the motor it will rotate counter clockwise under load. If you have room for it to move up slightly you would not have issues. Not sure how much it would move under a motor braking situation in the opposite direction.
Remember back in the day putting a chain on the driver's side of drag cars and keeping the rubber motor mounts? |
Payton - I haven't ruled a limiting strap out. :thumbsup:
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The polys have an internal lock for over travel. The amount of torque time is very little, you can compensate with an intake tornado plate. OR just put your foot in it farther.
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If you don't want any vibrations....... buy a Lexus :G-Dub:
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. . . . . . . :bitchslap: |
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Had a little time to do some investigative videoing. Why? Simply because I've never seen what's happening in these areas of the car.........in 25 years.
Nothing real exciting, with the exception of the brake check @ 3:34 in the front suspension video.......at least it was for my daughter. :unibrow: |
Cool to see all that in action and it's nice to know that you've put it together properly.
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Also appears that reverse eye leaf springs or a 4-link would resolve my pinion angle related vibration. Those lowering blocks reduce the u-joint working angles and create too much leverage on the springs thus adding to pinion deflection. |
You should really tear that front suspension apart and detail it. On second thought, why be a conformist with a car that doesn't move. ha ha ha
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.........until the rains come. It's not that the car is that nice, I just don't need a reckless driving ticket. :sieg: |
I was talking about the list of bozos in the jack stand class...
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Too bad it's another poopie Camaro or I'd have a whole basket full of cast off parts... Guess I'll have to give 'em to Basher instead. |
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haaaa haaaaa
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